7 Days Since 12/12 Switch

G

GratefulJosh

Member
Hello fellow growers! I'm running my first indoor grow in a 4x4x6.5 Mars Hydro tent and would love some feedback on my ladies! Running 2 Paris OG (on the left in the first picture) and 2 Chocolate Power (Blue Power × Chocolate Mint, on the right in the first pic) under a single Mars Hydro TSW2000. Had some initial ph problems, fixed by buying a digital gauge instead of trying to figure my ph by the colored solution drops. Today is day 7 since I flipped from 18/6 to 12/12. The previous feed was 10ml Grow, 7ml CalMag, and 1ml of Raptor Roots (a mycorrhizal root product) in a gallon of tap water ph'ed to 6.5. They then received 7ml CalMag and 1ml RR two days ago for their watering, then today's feed I introduced initial Bloom nutes. Temps have been 84 for a high with lights on, 67 for a low with lights off. Humidity has been running mid-40 percent to 60 percent (shortly after a feed/water) averaging around 50 percent. Today was: 10ml Grow, 5ml Bloom, 7ml CalMag, 1ml RR to a gallon of water. I plan to run that feed ratio the next couple of feeds, then begin tapering the Grow and increasing the Bloom. Alternating feed/water every third day. Tips/feedback/comments encouraged and welcomed!
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Critical_Purple

Critical_Purple

Member
GratefulJosh said:
Hello fellow growers! I'm running my first indoor grow in a 4x4x6.5 Mars Hydro tent and would love some feedback on my ladies! Running 2 Paris OG (on the left in the first picture) and 2 Chocolate Power (Blue Power × Chocolate Mint, on the right in the first pic.) Had some initial ph problems, fixed by buying a digital gauge instead of trying to figure my ph by the colored solution drops. Today is day 7 since I flipped from 18/6 to 12/12. The previous feed was 10ml Grow, 7ml CalMag, and 1ml of Raptor Roots (a mycorrhizal root product) ph'ed to 6.5. They then received 7ml CalMag and 1ml RR two days ago for their watering, then today's feed I introduced initial Bloom nutes. Temps have been 84 for a high with lights on, 67 for a low with lights off. Humidity has been running mid-40 percent to 60 percent (shortly after a feed/water) averaging around 50 percent. Today was: 10ml Grow, 5ml Bloom, 7ml CalMag, 1ml RR. I plan to run that feed ratio the next couple of feeds, then begin tapering the Grow and increasing the Bloom. Alternating feed/water every third day. Tips/feedback/comments encouraged and welcomed!
Click to expand...
Looking good. If I was you I would try to space the plants out a bit if your light footprint allows it. Then I would try to bend or supercropping each plant as much as possible. In my experiences the more room they have the fatter the colas. But looking good man
 
G

GratefulJosh

Member
Critical_Purple said:
Looking good. If I was you I would try to space the plants out a bit if your light footprint allows it. Then I would try to bend or supercropping each plant as much as possible. In my experiences the more room they have the fatter the colas. But looking good man
Click to expand...
I had the same thought about spacing, but unfortunately have already kinda intertwined some branches through the trellis, which has limited the pots' mobility. I'm still bending down some of the tops as space in the trellis allows, gonna stop bending once I see proper flowers forming--right now I'm only seeing the beginning of pistils
 
G

GratefulJosh

Member
speedwell68 said:
Why the need for so much CalMag?
Click to expand...
I was seeing some rust spots on some leaves that led me to believe a CalMag deficiency may have been the culprit...might pull back on it since I'm using tap water that I believe has some mineral content already. I'm using a Mars Hydro TSW2000 in my tent, and they suggest running extra CalMag with LEDs. Think I should be using less speedwell68?
 
Hollatchaboy

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
GratefulJosh said:
I'm using tap water that I believe has some mineral content already.
Click to expand...
Believing it has some mineral content, is not knowing what the mineral contents are and how much. It's important to know how much of everything the plant is getting. You don't want ratios getting too far out of whack. Look online for your water quality report from your water provider. Unless you're using well water.
 
speedwell68

speedwell68

Well-Known Member
calvin.m16 said:
Mars Hydro LEDs make plants eat CalMag like crazy. I've ran them you need it or they will get necrotic leaves.
Click to expand...
Just Mars Hydro LEDs? I have been lead to believe that some LEDs can cause an increase in the need for Calcium. I have also been lead to believe that too much Phosphorus can lead to Calcium being locked out. I was using a PK48 booster with a feed that I know is Calcium rich. I am using some DIY lights that are very similar to Mars Hydro TS1000s. I started getting signs of calcium def, so rather than just add another product I reduced the use of PK48 to nothing over the course of a week and the calcium deficiency stopped progressing. Hence the question.

I'd like to point out CalMag is not just Calcium. It is also Nitrogen and Magnesium Sulphate. It seems to be that CalMag is almost the go to solution to all problems, people seem to add it when they don't know why the plant is calcium deficient or when they don't need it at all.
 
S

Synchronicity

Well-Known Member
Hello,
I am also on my 1st LED grow. But I have been under HID lights for years now and am making the switch in one of my two 4x2 grow boxes. I am on day 9 of my 12 & 12 cycle now in both grow boxes.

I use the color test kit to determine nute levels and PH in roots organics potting soil. It has worked for me over the years........... When I get into late veg and early bloom I need more nitrogen so I up the dose for that in the "Lucas formula" that I use for nutes (General Hydroponics). I also use Diamond Black in the General Hydroponics line in late veg and eary bloom stage. In mid to late bloom I then cut back on the nitrogen again and let the leaves yellow some............. this seems to work for me so I dont try to fix it for nutes. I use hard tap water......... I have foliar applied Alaska fish emulsion a couple of times lately for the nitrogen for yellowing leaves.

The HID box just switched from MH to HPS since the 1st signs of budding have occurrred. The HID plants are much larger than the LED plants from the same strain of seeds. The plants are all Super Lemon Haze from feminized seeds.

I top the plants but have not put a grid over them or tried to bend them around. Maybe I will try that in the future so your grow is interesting to me.

I am also using 300 watts of a Spider Farmer and Maxsisun Quantum Boards in the LED box. So I have more light intensity than you.

They are in the dark now and I will get some pics later.

I think your grow looks good. My main issue was the increased need for nitrogen in the late veg and early bloom stage when the growth spurt starts under the flowering cycle...........more so in the LED than in the HID box for some reason although the need for more Nitro was also there (for HID) at the same time.........


I have never had a calcium issue yet with my hard tap water that I am aware of. But I am growing under different conditions, no?

Best wishes on this and here's to a great harvest coming up

:weed:
 
G

GratefulJosh

Member
Synchronicity said:
Hello,
I am also on my 1st LED grow. But I have been under HID lights for years now and am making the switch in one of my two 4x2 grow boxes. I am on day 9 of my 12 & 12 cycle now in both grow boxes.

I use the color test kit to determine nute levels and PH in roots organics potting soil. It has worked for me over the years........... When I get into late veg and early bloom I need more nitrogen so I up the dose for that in the "Lucas formula" that I use for nutes (General Hydroponics). I also use Diamond Black in the General Hydroponics line in late veg and eary bloom stage. In mid to late bloom I then cut back on the nitrogen again and let the leaves yellow some............. this seems to work for me so I dont try to fix it for nutes. I use hard tap water......... I have foliar applied Alaska fish emulsion a couple of times lately for the nitrogen for yellowing leaves.

The HID box just switched from MH to HPS since the 1st signs of budding have occurrred. The HID plants are much larger than the LED plants from the same strain of seeds. The plants are all Super Lemon Haze from feminized seeds.

I top the plants but have not put a grid over them or tried to bend them around. Maybe I will try that in the future so your grow is interesting to me.

I am also using 300 watts of a Spider Farmer and Maxsisun Quantum Boards in the LED box. So I have more light intensity than you.

They are in the dark now and I will get some pics later.

I think your grow looks good. My main issue was the increased need for nitrogen in the late veg and early bloom stage when the growth spurt starts under the flowering cycle...........more so in the LED than in the HID box for some reason although the need for more Nitro was also there (for HID) at the same time.........


I have never had a calcium issue yet with my hard tap water that I am aware of. But I am growing under different conditions, no?

Best wishes on this and here's to a great harvest coming up

:weed:
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply Synchronicity! I appreciate the feedback from another grower using hard tapwater--I feel like any issues from undesirable content in the water can be mitigated by leaving it to sit for 24 hrs before use, but honestly it appears as though my girls have acclimated to the water and don't seem to be bothered by any trace content.

The biggest issue I've had with the tapwater is it starting off so alkaline, I find myself using a lot of ph down to get my waterings/feedings to that 6.4-6.5 ph level. I invested in a digital ph pen because I felt like when I was interpreting the color of the solution in the liquid ph test kit there was some possibility that I could be off by a few tenths of a point...not a big deal necessarily if it's only a few times, but I figured that over the large number of total waterings & feedings my girls are receiving over the course of their life, a few tenths of a point could definitely throw off the soil ph and lead to potential lockout problems in the long term.

They seem to be responding well to their 10ml Grow, 5ml Bloom, 1ml Raptor Roots feedings, but I have cut back a bit on the CalMag to just adding it on watering days and not feeds as they seem to be healthy and I don't want to get heavy-handed with nutes and end up burning them. I feel like keeping the Grow in their nute mix is helping alleviate any extra nitrogen demands during their stretch, and I can start tapering that piece of their feeds over the next week or two, and upping the Bloom level as they progress. I may do a 10ml/10ml of each on their next feed, but not sure if only allowing a couple of feeds at the 5ml Bloom level is enough to allow the ladies to adjust to it before I start raising it
 
S

Synchronicity

Well-Known Member
Yes sir,
Your concerns sound familiar to me and we both are using the GH Flora series nutes. But in a different manner:

With that Lucas formula I start seedlings and early veging plants under a 400w Metal Halide bulb about 24 inches above the plants. The formula uses 2.5mls of micro and 5.0mls of bloom every watering from a 1 gal. pail. So I fertilize every time I water with that mix. I dont use Flora Grow at all with the Lucas formula that I have "tweaked" to go with my tap water.

When I switch the mature veging plants to under a 600w Metal Halide- I then up the dose of nutes to 5mls micro and 10mls of bloom. This seemed to help the increased need for nitrogen (mainly) in the larger, faster growing plants. It may be all that is needed without foliar apps of fish emulsion.

And my tap water is just under 7.0 PH by my tests usually. It can get down to 6.8. But I think the soil acts like a buffer and the diff between 6.8 and 7.0 for me is moot since I see no effect that I can tell on the plants. So I can tell you that I do just fine in the roots organics soil if my PH is neutral or even slightly alkaline. I know the water is hard with Ca and Mg in it. It leaves mineral deposits. I dont know how much in PPMs but it is there. And so I use the Diamond Black in 2 or 3 waterings prior to about 10 days before harvest.
I also used the PH down to take my water down to those same levels on my 1st grows. But after 3 or 4 harvests I found no need to do it. Not under the HIDs anyway. It may work for me but not for you although it is something to consider. You may not need to take that PH down........... it may not be such a big deal in soil........

jus' sayin'- it takes a harvest or 2 to tweak things to ones' situation. In the mean time you seem to be fine. By my standards anyway. And this 1st LED grow for me is a learning thing and certainly different than growing under HIDs for a number of reasons.
 
Last edited:
S

Synchronicity

Well-Known Member
The 1st two photos- under the 600w HPS bulb

The 2nd two photos- under the LED quantum boards

The last photo - seedling and young veg plants under the 400w metal halide...........

Plants essentially fill up the entire 4x2 box under the HID bulbs with two plants. Under the LED lights I fit 3 plants that grew bushier and shorter than in the HID box.....................

these pics are from 9 days into a 12 & 12 cycle on the two large grow boxes
 

Attachments

G

GratefulJosh

Member
So I'm looking for some help with a leaf yellowing issue. Today is Day 33 of flower and the edges and tips of the top growth in some spots is yellowing. I know it's not the normal fade, as it's too early and is starting at the top of the plant, not the bottom. I also see some purpling coming into the centers of some of the fan leaves. Pics attached
 

Attachments

I

inth3shadowz

Well-Known Member
GratefulJosh said:
So I'm looking for some help with a leaf yellowing issue. Today is Day 33 of flower and the edges and tips of the top growth in some spots is yellowing. I know it's not the normal fade, as it's too early and is starting at the top of the plant, not the bottom. I also see some purpling coming into the centers of some of the fan leaves. Pics attached
Click to expand...
What's your light distance and % selected on the dimmer?
 
I

inth3shadowz

Well-Known Member
GratefulJosh said:
16 to 18 inches from canopy, further for some shorter tops. Set to 100%
Click to expand...
Just my opinion, but when I have anything over 240w LED, I keep the power down just a bit, it's more efficient (apparently they say) and I think may be contributing to your issue. I had a SF2000 I forgot to dim once in flower and every plant was green and loving life except this one, I couldn't figure out why. Swore up and down it was improper feeding etc, but something simple as dimming 20% fixed my issue.

This is speculation of course, your problem may actually be nutrient or pH related, but it's best to start at a simple step, see if you get improvement, etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top