6wk flower yellowing and death.

It's just a 1 gallon pot with fox farm ocean forest and I didn't supplement it with any grow nutes, just some for a nova in flower with some cal/mag.

Root bound man, shes a glutton. Looks a lot like mine. Have you ever thought about filling the bottom of that cab with soil and scrogging it down? If you have a clone you could grow it in a 7 gal tote or even make your own built in.

Plants eat soil I bet you have nothing but roots in that pot.

@Dr.Pecker yeah it comes out as one piece at the end..

You guys have some nice pictures. But i'm used to them being much bigger and taking longer.

This is what I usually see at 10-12 weeks and they go a bit more...


I'm afraid there won't be enough factories left at 8 weeks to even get me any further.

Still not much change, still evenly yellowing. Some death. The root pack is getting hard but they are too big to re-plant without some loss. I continued at 1/2 str and added some extra mycos and tea.

BluJayz said:

You guys have some nice pictures. But i'm used to them being much bigger and taking longer.

This is what I usually see at 10-12 weeks and they go a bit more...
View attachment 3312531 View attachment 3312532

I'm afraid there won't be enough factories left at 8 weeks to even get me any further.

Still not much change, still evenly yellowing. Some death. The root pack is getting hard but they are too big to re-plant without some loss. I continued at 1/2 str and added some extra mycos and tea.

Click to expand...

those are pretty buds bro

onegreenthumb said:

those are pretty buds bro

Click to expand...

Thanks, its the Sweet Island Skunk. The LSD was in the back about 7 weeks behind.

I just ordered some LSD seeds, and can't stand the anticipation! Those are some dank looking nugs, and I know the smoke's great!
I've been running several different types from clones- mainly TGA's Cheeze Quake and Ripped Bubba, and a cheese strain we've dubbed Jr, in 1 gal cloth pots. I root the clones in small SOLO cups until they are about 5 nodes, usually around 6", then transplant to my 1 gal cloth pot, and goes directly to the flower room @ 12/12, and use Hygrozyme in every other watering.
I've found by doing it that way, the biggest advantage is the root mass isn't anywhere near what it would be if I let it veg in that same pot. Though it builds a nice root ball during the 8-10 week flower cycle, but the biggest part of a plant's root ball growth occurs during the veg cycle, and root growth is real aggressive.
The cloth pots help facilitate a large root mass by air pruning and not letting them circle the pot. That's a huge advantage! And the Hygrozyme enzymes eat up any dead and/or unhealthy matter, making even more room for roots.
After I harvest a plant and empty the pot, there will usually be plenty of room left in the bottom 3-4" for more roots.
The 7" tall pots, sometimes end up placed in another pot to keep em from tipping over! lol
I recently found some 5" tall x 7" wide pots, I'm anxious to see how that goes! Much more stable.

Cheese quake Is awesome and fun to grow. I'm glad you shared your success. Good day to you.

id suggest doing a transition feed your first three weeks of flowering. first week full veg nutes, half and half second week, 1/3 beg 2/3 bloom the third week. this will help store more nitrogen.

also that would be for 8/9 week varieties. id suggest doing the sativa dominants running upto 12 weeks as each transition of 10 days instead of 7.

personal lux said:

id suggest doing a transition feed your first three weeks of flowering. first week full veg nutes, half and half second week, 1/3 beg 2/3 bloom the third week. this will help store more nitrogen.

Click to expand...

You're very spot-on about the transition feeding and the N boost that may be necessary to keep 'em going strong. I have done that in the past, particularly with plants that I let veg for any length of time. But, I put my little solo cup seedling into a fresh gallon of FF OF, and it seems to have plenty of N to get her thru the transition, and probably then some. I usually don't feed them much at all during the first 2-1/2 to 3 weeks, I think they stretch quite a bit more when I do. My personal experience.
I did have a problem similar to his a while back, on my first run of Pineapple Trainwreck.
It began at the end of week 3 (12/12) with rust spots on the fan leaves (like a Cal def.), then they yellowed, canoed, and became brittle. At the time I was using my own well water, which I did not realize was LOADED with calcium and iron. Between the calcium in the well water and the cal-mag I was using in my regimen, it overdosed the calcium, causing P lockout. I sorta figured it out on the 2nd run by accident, by supplementing extra calcium in the regimen earlier on, in the first week of flower, and that issue began immediately, not waiting until the 3rd week- which coincidently, was when I would normally start with their first feeding- including cal-mag.
Got a cheap RO system, and that solved nearly every problem I'd been having up to that point.

There was no point in dragging it on the plant's were too far gone. I took them down and they average a little over 2 oz dry weight each compared to almost 5oz each last round.

There was a massive root ball the top 3/4 of the pot but the bottom had very few. (strange)

Went with a hand mixed soil this round (7g normal pot), no ph-ing (peroid), heavy on the micro life and light feedings, mostly top dressings. Going for a a healthy soil that I will re use the following round.

So far they are quite lush green, knock on wood.

Hope this one goes well for ya!
Out of curiosity, what kind of water are you using?
Certainly not to question your growing skills, but when you transplant the clones, water in, and begin your veg cycle, how dry do you let your soil get before you water or feed again?
I've experienced root balls doing the same- only filling the top 2/3 of the pot. In my case, I didn't allow the soil to dry enough, and the roots didn't dig deep in search of moisture. They didn't need to. Thusly, they started to get root bound at the end of the cycle- but just in the top 2/3 of the pot. It also made watering them to saturation a real bitch, because the root mass was so thick it wouldn't let water pass thru very easily.
Particularly crucial the first few waterings after transplant.
I've also started using an enzyme similar to Hygrozyme- but much cheaper, and it helps to break down any dead or unhealthy matter in the root zone, that could otherwise contribute to that bound up root mass.
Just sayin' this is what happened to me.

Intresting experience, it very well could be the same.

I use R/o water and I do the finger in soil to knuckle to test for water.

I've adapted a bottom poke recently since I can't lift the pot.