The last thread was a question about "heat" in a specific area this thread is "build" recommendations what are you talking about? They dont seem the same to me
Heat mitigation is a part of one's build so there's no need to create additional threads to ask about every particular aspect of your build.
Thank you brother im new to this site sorry. Can I use air cooled hood instead? And if yes will it be small enough to fit in 4x4x7 tent?
ive also decided to go with a triplite portable ac for IT server rooms to cool and dehumidify surrounding area of grow tent.
No problem dude. Yea you could do a cooled hood if you want, that should fit fine. Do you have one in mind or picked out already? Would probably just want to double check the specs on it but you'll be fine 4x4 is a big tent that's what I grow in.
Great advice ac will be last. I will buy everything else, run it, and repost if necessary. Should i test run setup without plants to ensure they have good environment before purchase. Or test run setup with plants?
test running without plants will take 30minutes-2 hrs playing around with light and fan controls my temp is at its max temp around 40 minutes, might as well test out without its definitely easier to install stuff without knocking over red solos, I'm going to try cloning for the 1st time on the ones that won't be the future mother while the moms get fat n juicy. Im currently running 300watts in my 4x4 in my room at ~77 degrees, bout to install my filter and am afraid of it heating up and was hoping to use at least (75% 450watts) without it going over 80, i have to leave my window open in my room while I'm there with one half 60degrees the other almost 80. I think if i moved my fan closer to the light without ducting between that it would possibly drop a couple degrees but I'd hate to waste time trying to figure out how to hang them rather than the fan directly ontop the tent
That would probably work bro. Another thing you might try is fitting the fan to push cool air over the light instead of pulling it. That's how I have it set up in my 4x4 and I run 400w with my fan on low temps at 72 no problem. But I think for sure if you move the fan closer it'd help either way.
Awesome! I was really hoping to bump up the power without needing to buy an ac unit, to have the fan on the filter before the light would be best to prevent leaks with positive pressure in the ducting but that positive pressure blowing over the light would increase the heat (just the pressure) wouldn't it? The more pressure the more heat so I'd imagine it would be slightly cooler sucking the hot air, however the fan would last longer blowing cooler air than sucking heat right? Im going to make it as linear as possible with the outtake horizontally rather than bending the duct 90 to push up, i figured the heat would escape easier if it was pointing up but now i think a more direct connection would be much more superior
Great, im trying to get as much information as possible. Grow setup coming early February.
Yea I actually swap out to a 1000w a week in to flowering and it handles it fine, just got to bump up the power on the fan a good bit to compensate. As to your question, really good question, I don't know the answer unfortunately. I've had my fan set up both ways though (before and after the light, positive and negative pressure) and haven't found a difference in added heat. Logically having the positive pressure does increase pressure but idt that extra pressure creates any additional heat. I could be wrong though, that's just my experience. And yes, the more direct you can make it the better.
In my experience, the difference in temperature when comparing room pressure has come mostly due to the decreased efficiency of the air flow when I have arranged a fan or fans to create positive pressure. For example, active intake-passive exhaust. Also, if your room isn't well sealed, you will have leaks, as someone mentioned already. The upside is that you can significantly lower the humidity with increased pressure alone. In addition to the single fan method, you could run two fans with significantly different cfm or use a speed controller on one or both for the most specific control. However, it's likely that the speed controllers will shorten the life of your fans to some degree.
Just trying to get on the same page, did you mean active intake passive exhaust as (passive intake at bottom of tent)>>> filter above light>>>fan>>>light>>>passive out? Or the fan pumping air directly in from the bottom? Otherwise i wouldn't know how that air would get filtered before it passively exhausts through the filter? And i was referring to positive pressure inside the duct by the fan blowing over the light then out, that way any pinhole leaks in ducting will go back inside the tent and would get sucked back through the filter, of course a negative air pressure inside the tent itself so that the stink can't escape