40+ lbs with 12 Plants in 2 Rooms on a Flip

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Renfro

Renfro

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ttystikk said:
I knew a dude who put both a 1000W HPS and a 1000W MH in a 4x4 tent and the plants were stunted, even with good heat management.

The key is optimum levels, just like it is with temps, nutes, etc.
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I have had tips of buds that got too close to a light but were kept cool enough show chlorosis and totally turn white.

There definitely is a limit but if temps can be maintained sometimes you have a few buds get damaged to have a shit ton more yield on the rest. So it's always a balancing act when you are pushing things to the limit.
 
Renfro

Renfro

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ttystikk said:
Do you monster crop every time?
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Yes, I do now. For plant count reasons I don't keep a mom. I started monster cropping because when I took clones before sending my plants into flower they would veg too long and become extremely cumbersome to move into the flowering rooms. Also I had to force them to flatten out and get wide once I moved them in and that caused them a significant amount of stress. Now I give them a little time to veg in the flower rooms and train them gradually. My mistake this run was flipping them so soon, thats gonna cost me in yield, I can already tell.

The monster cropping sure does make them branch out bigtime. So I am glad I tried it.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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Renfro said:
Yes, I do now. For plant count reasons I don't keep a mom. I started monster cropping because when I took clones before sending my plants into flower they would veg too long and become extremely cumbersome to move into the flowering rooms. Also I had to force them to flatten out and get wide once I moved them in and that caused them a significant amount of stress. Now I give them a little time to veg in the flower rooms and train them gradually. My mistake this run was flipping them so soon, thats gonna cost me in yield, I can already tell.

The monster cropping sure does make them branch out bigtime. So I am glad I tried it.
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How long do you veg (after rooting the clones) before flip?
 
gr865

gr865

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@ Renfro

Have you considered air layering, you would not need to keep mothers.

I will be giving it a try on my next grow, AYAHUASCA PURPLE. Have used it on house plants for years so hopefully this will work in cannabis.
 
gr865

gr865

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Renfro said:
They usually get about 45 days in the pots before flip. First 30 days or so is in the veg room, the last 10 to 14 days of that is in the flowering rooms.
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So you actually go under 12/12 light up to two weeks prior to when you consider it is in flower?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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Renfro said:
They usually get about 45 days in the pots before flip. First 30 days or so is in the veg room, the last 10 to 14 days of that is in the flowering rooms.
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So you veg in the bloom room?

I worked hard to develop my system so that bloom rooms did nothing but bloom, and they were never empty. I did this by developing a system where my plants were fully mobile and could be carried from the vegetative space to their blooming spot and set in place right when the old plant was removed.

This allowed me to pull 6 1/2 harvests a year from every spot in the bloom room, at 8 weeks a cycle.

The math is clear; 10 weeks (2 weeks veg, 8 weeks bloom) comes to 5.2 crops annually, where 8 weeks (bloom only) gets 6.5 annual crops. That's a whole extra harvest!

One way to keep up with the work is to run more cycles, each of which is smaller. If a full crop is 8 plants, then one option is to place 4 plants in bloom, then 4 weeks later place another 4 plants in bloom. Four weeks after that, the first 4 are ready so pull them out and immediately replace them with 4 more plants.

The advantage is that your harvests are staggered so the trimming workload is spread out, plus each stage is smaller in terms of plant count and therefore easier to deal with.

This isn't meant as criticism at all, just food for thought. I found that once the basics of environment, training and so on were sorted out, the biggest gains came from what amounts to process management, which is the science of getting the most output from the given inputs. One of the best ways to do that is careful management of time.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
So you veg in the bloom room?

I worked hard to develop my system so that bloom rooms did nothing but bloom, and they were never empty. I did this by developing a system where my plants were fully mobile and could be carried from the vegetative space to their blooming spot and set in place right when the old plant was removed.

This allowed me to pull 6 1/2 harvests a year from every spot in the bloom room, at 8 weeks a cycle.

The math is clear; 10 weeks (2 weeks veg, 8 weeks bloom) comes to 5.2 crops annually, where 8 weeks (bloom only) gets 6.5 annual crops. That's a whole extra harvest!

One way to keep up with the work is to run more cycles, each of which is smaller. If a full crop is 8 plants, then one option is to place 4 plants in bloom, then 4 weeks later place another 4 plants in bloom. Four weeks after that, the first 4 are ready so pull them out and immediately replace them with 4 more plants.

The advantage is that your harvests are staggered so the trimming workload is spread out, plus each stage is smaller in terms of plant count and therefore easier to deal with.

This isn't meant as criticism at all, just food for thought. I found that once the basics of environment, training and so on were sorted out, the biggest gains came from what amounts to process management, which is the science of getting the most output from the given inputs. One of the best ways to do that is careful management of time.
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I don't wish to do any sort of perpetual. I like to clean the rooms really good between runs. I do see how the extra 14 days is basically downtime for a flower room. For me it is what it is. lol If I can get 4 good crops a year I am happy. Having a crop every 90 days is great for me. I like to downtime between harvests, trimming sucks lol.

I used to bring the plants in to flowering rooms massive and pop them right away. It was just too much stress on the plants with the high stress training required to make them fit. Plant counts suck, if I could have as many plants as I wanted I would have no reason to make them this big and my system would be a SoG in trays probably. lol
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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Renfro said:
So I ordered some 10k DE MH finishing bulbs for my overhead lights. Plan to run them for like the last week or so to see if they increase resin production without sacrificing yield.
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I hope you have better luck with them than I did.
 
Renfro

Renfro

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gr865 said:
@ Renfro

Have you considered air layering, you would not need to keep mothers.

I will be giving it a try on my next grow, AYAHUASCA PURPLE. Have used it on house plants for years so hopefully this will work in cannabis.
Click to expand...
I have not, but I fail to see how that would help as they would be on a plant in flower... Please tell me what I am missing.
 
Renfro

Renfro

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gr865 said:
So you actually go under 12/12 light up to two weeks prior to when you consider it is in flower?
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No. They are getting 24 hour light for the first 10 - 14 days in the flowering rooms. I use the end row lights to do this. Instead of being on at the same time as the overhead lights they are on when the other room is on. So the overhead lights run for 12 hours and then the ends run for 12 hours. I have a titan controller that runs those lights, each side of the controller has a trigger cord. I use one side of that controller for each rooms end row lights (400 watters). I just switch what side of the controller they are plugged into so when room A is on the end row lights in room B are running and that keeps them in veg. I hope that makes sense I am pretty high.
 
Renfro

Renfro

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Couch_Lock said:
I'm just jelly of ur grow space, bro.
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Thanks man. 1200 sqft. Took me 6 years to get it where it is now. I started with one flowering room running and no CO2 or air conditioner. Nice thing about that is I have ventilation system that serves as a backup if my AC goes out. I have the fresh air intake blowers connected to my autopilot controller so that if the room gets hotter than the AC should keep it at, it disables CO2 generation and vents. I also have my end row lights and between row lights on a high temp cutoff so they would kick off and wait for the room to cool down and wait another 15 minutes before coming back on. So if an AC unit stops and Im not home it handles it automatically. I can also set the nite temp lower than the day temp and when lights go out the fresh air kicks on and pushes out any ethylene gas out.
 
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