40+ lbs with 12 Plants in 2 Rooms on a Flip

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Keesje

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If RO wouldn't be so expensive, I think more professional growers would use it.
The big growers solve this by analyzing their water first. Then they know for every element how much of it is in water.
Then they add every single element to the level they want it to be.
If they could afford RO water they would just have to throw in 1 bag and check pH and EC > less work.
 
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Renfro

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The big growers solve this by analyzing their water first. Then they know for every element how much of it is in water.
And thats great if the water isn't always changing like mine does. I would be doing that myself if I could. RO filtration wastes a lot of water and the filters aren't free lol. Plus having to change out the filters sucks.
 

Keesje

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Where I live the water is mostly the same, but the greenhouse growers still measure it every time they add nutrients.
When they do a kind of E&F, they analyze the return water and just fill up the single element, until every single element has the same level they are looking for.
Also the growers on hydro (with the big reservoirs and the floating vegetables) never change their water. They have continuous analyzing and add single elements.
It is expensive, but not as expensive as you might think. You also save a lot on nutrients as well.
 

Grassizgreener

Well-Known Member
What do you mean by treating it like hydro?
Continuous watering, multi feed, f&d.. etc

Hm not sure what area you are but my ec is always at .2 n mag n cal levels during winter n summers don’t change, spring minor spike in cal but it doesn’t effect the recipe where plants are hurting, now if you are in commerce city.. That’s a whole another issue in itself
 

Maineconnect

Active Member
Renfro great job man!
I’m just getting started in peat moss can you tell me how managing my ec would differ from coco coir? Apart from a less heavy and frequent watering hand....how do I feed efficienctly in peat ? Feed feed flush? Flush with CaMg?
 

Renfro

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Renfro great job man!
I’m just getting started in peat moss can you tell me how managing my ec would differ from coco coir? Apart from a less heavy and frequent watering hand....how do I feed efficienctly in peat ? Feed feed flush? Flush with CaMg?
When growing in peat based mixes I just feed every watering, get good runoff to prevent salt buildups. I feed at 1000 - 1100 PPM, pH at 6.5 - 6.8. Allow the medium to dry between waterings so as to prevent root rot. Thats how I handled promix, sunshine and berger peat based mixes. Knowing the pH of the medium is key, I have had issues with batches that had wack pH. It's always a good idea to test the pH of the bales before purchasing them.
 

Maineconnect

Active Member
so Treat it like coco coir in regards to feeding treat it like soil in regards to ph manage my inflow ec/outflow ec that same way I would coco just allowing thorough wet—>dry cycle?
 

Renfro

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I would coco just allowing thorough wet—>dry cycle?
wet—>not so wet cycle. We don't want the coco to get as dry as we would want soil. So halfway dry. Just not saturated all the time. If I had to error on an occasional watering I would error on the early/wet side. Over watering is a persistent condition, so not letting the medium dry enough before one watering isn't likely to cause issues UNLESS the wet—>not so wet cycle already takes a long time. In that case, essentially doubling the length of time the roots spend in a saturated condition could be detrimental, resulting in a case of pythium.
 

Maineconnect

Active Member
Interesting. If you care to explain what you mean
Unless wet dry cycle takes a long time? I’m all ears. Just a little confused by what you mean. Sounds like solid info I’d really like to understand
wet—>not so wet cycle. We don't want the coco to get as dry as we would want soil. So halfway dry. Just not saturated all the time. If I had to error on an occasional watering I would error on the early/wet side. Over watering is a persistent condition, so not letting the medium dry enough before one watering isn't likely to cause issues UNLESS the wet—>not so wet cycle already takes a long time. In that case, essentially doubling the length of time the roots spend in a saturated condition could be detrimental, resulting in a case of pythium.
by unless
 

Renfro

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If the plant is small and the pot is large for example then it will take a long time for the coco to dry enough that it would no longer be considered saturated or too wet. Probably pushing the limits if we don't allow it to dry enough to get some oxygen time at the roots. Lets say we have a plant that takes 3 days to get to where it's halfway dry. If we only wait 2 days and water then it's going to be lacking oxygen for 5 days straight. It's those breaks when oxygen gets in there that prevent the root rot.

The roots need to get oxygen at some point to prevent the growth of anaerobic bacteria (pythium / root rot). When the coco is saturated there are no air pockets to speak of so we are entirely dependent on the limited supply of dissolved oxygen in the water that was fed. The only way deep water culture works is the oxygenation of the nutrient solution. I hope that helps, I basically explained it in every way I can think of lol
 

Renfro

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had a run in this journal that was 54+, still chopping this one, its at least that much, probably 60 ish but we are freezing all but the best nugs for pressing this round. tired of trimming. freeze drier, bud washer, ice machine, press, lots of stuff on the way. so drying and trimming room is getting converted to solventless extraction room.
 

Hust17

Well-Known Member
had a run in this journal that was 54+, still chopping this one, its at least that much, probably 60 ish but we are freezing all but the best nugs for pressing this round. tired of trimming. freeze drier, bud washer, ice machine, press, lots of stuff on the way. so drying and trimming room is getting converted to solventless extraction room.
I know I’m newish here but I love you Renfro, please stay forever <3
 
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