3k Orca Hood Grow ft.AOS,P.BERRY,DR.WHO, QUERKLE,A.ORANGE,Q. KUSH,DR.GRAPE,GRAPE APE.
- Thread starter DLOPEZ1420
- Start date
Right about now is the time i would start bumping them with a LITTLE extra N.Along with increased doses of PK until finish.
The plants at this stage and timing are using up Allot of N for bud development.A little extra N right now would push the bud development larger at this stage giving it power for the final push to finish.Cal mag from grotek I think it would count as organic?Oh well it contains about if i remember a rating of 4 0 0.This can be added to increase the nitrogen content and boost some extra calcium your plants will like.Lets BLOW those mother fuckers up dlopez.
The plants at this stage and timing are using up Allot of N for bud development.A little extra N right now would push the bud development larger at this stage giving it power for the final push to finish.Cal mag from grotek I think it would count as organic?Oh well it contains about if i remember a rating of 4 0 0.This can be added to increase the nitrogen content and boost some extra calcium your plants will like.Lets BLOW those mother fuckers up dlopez.
Ive noticed you are getting some fade on the leafs? Is this normal for this stage?
Ive had some problems recently with the bud blood ive been getting being to hot so im switching to bud igniter.They are making it to hot from the factory upon occasion.You using it at less than half strength was a good idea im thinking.But it sets buds like a mo fo and induces buds fast.
If this is normal fade for the same period of time? Is it a week earlier than it would normally start fading?
Maybe a slight increase in nitrogen dose at a earlier stage maybe for some of your strains would push the fade back a little later in the grow.
Ive had some problems recently with the bud blood ive been getting being to hot so im switching to bud igniter.They are making it to hot from the factory upon occasion.You using it at less than half strength was a good idea im thinking.But it sets buds like a mo fo and induces buds fast.
If this is normal fade for the same period of time? Is it a week earlier than it would normally start fading?
Maybe a slight increase in nitrogen dose at a earlier stage maybe for some of your strains would push the fade back a little later in the grow.
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
Im running 13 different strains. Some color change at different times.
That bud blood is def hot.. But i works. The grow looks like my last grow at Day 42. The fade is on the
Og, Grape Ape, Agent Orange. Everybody else is Dark Green. Last feeding was at 6.3ph at 1300ppms.
Next feeding im pushing it a bit 1500 ppms. 1900 ppms of co2. There drinking a gallon of nutes everyother day.
Max have u been noticing ur plants fading early?. Man m grape strain is turning crazy red colors on the fan leaves... So beautiful...
Day 32. These bitches are getting big.. Night shots...
That bud blood is def hot.. But i works. The grow looks like my last grow at Day 42. The fade is on the
Og, Grape Ape, Agent Orange. Everybody else is Dark Green. Last feeding was at 6.3ph at 1300ppms.
Next feeding im pushing it a bit 1500 ppms. 1900 ppms of co2. There drinking a gallon of nutes everyother day.
Max have u been noticing ur plants fading early?. Man m grape strain is turning crazy red colors on the fan leaves... So beautiful...
Day 32. These bitches are getting big.. Night shots...
I love the fade dlopez,I just dont want the fade to happen to soon.You are feeding hot enough.
The bud blood seems to have been made hotter than it used to be.I normally start seeing fade around day 35 or so and really some nice fade going on around day 45 when it starts.It does depend on the strain.
The only concern i have is your increased light..inreased co2 is going to increase nute and water uptake.No way around it.
This is not a bad thing is means bigger nastier buds.
The thing about super soil if its not in a large enough pot it will run out of steam by the end of the run.So supplemental feeding is needed to keep them going.
You normally start your timing on your plants a week after they have been put into bud.
The bud blood will induce bloom faster and stronger than what you are used to.When they jump ugly that fast its going to change your finish time.WE DO NOT KNOW TO WHAT YET.(NOTE)
The nitrogen from the faster bud development if not replenished will draw it from the plant.
N is the energy of the plant.It is what drive the PK to do its job.To much N and you will extend the finish time of the plants and also get that taste in your bud.
Without N the P(for setting buds)and the K(for developing buds)Will not have enough energy to do what it needs to do.
What this tells me is you need a little higher N in the feeding schedule to push back the fade a LITTLE.
This is going to jump up your production and slow your fade some.
Your day 32 is actually day 39 with about 17 days to 24 days till finish.or 24 days to 31 days to finish.
This is going to be a learning experience for both of us buddy.
If you only have 17 days or so to finish id say your almost on time with the fade..if we have 4 weeks to finish id say the fade has started early.
I think they are going to finish earlier than you have ever seen them finish before.
I think the bud blood and the light have sped up your grow by around a week from what you are normally used to.
Look at your root systems when you get done with the pull also..bud blood explodes roots.
The bud blood seems to have been made hotter than it used to be.I normally start seeing fade around day 35 or so and really some nice fade going on around day 45 when it starts.It does depend on the strain.
The only concern i have is your increased light..inreased co2 is going to increase nute and water uptake.No way around it.
This is not a bad thing is means bigger nastier buds.
The thing about super soil if its not in a large enough pot it will run out of steam by the end of the run.So supplemental feeding is needed to keep them going.
You normally start your timing on your plants a week after they have been put into bud.
The bud blood will induce bloom faster and stronger than what you are used to.When they jump ugly that fast its going to change your finish time.WE DO NOT KNOW TO WHAT YET.(NOTE)
The nitrogen from the faster bud development if not replenished will draw it from the plant.
N is the energy of the plant.It is what drive the PK to do its job.To much N and you will extend the finish time of the plants and also get that taste in your bud.
Without N the P(for setting buds)and the K(for developing buds)Will not have enough energy to do what it needs to do.
What this tells me is you need a little higher N in the feeding schedule to push back the fade a LITTLE.
This is going to jump up your production and slow your fade some.
Your day 32 is actually day 39 with about 17 days to 24 days till finish.or 24 days to 31 days to finish.
This is going to be a learning experience for both of us buddy.
If you only have 17 days or so to finish id say your almost on time with the fade..if we have 4 weeks to finish id say the fade has started early.
I think they are going to finish earlier than you have ever seen them finish before.
I think the bud blood and the light have sped up your grow by around a week from what you are normally used to.
Look at your root systems when you get done with the pull also..bud blood explodes roots.
Bloom Feedby TGAMrSpliff4202,241 views
This guy is a TGA grower.He grows with sub his garden is set up allot like yours(yours is nicer)
This guy is a TGA grower.He grows with sub his garden is set up allot like yours(yours is nicer)
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
I just noticed that you guys are running "supersoil" or amended soil(nothing new about this method) and adding CHEMICAL fertilizers too it??? This is an issue I see more and more on RIU recently. You do realize what happens to a Soil Food Web when salt based chem ferts(budblood/cha-ching/$$$/etc.) are added, it destroys your beneficial bacteria/microbe population and the PLANT STOPS getting it's nutrients from the soil itself and becomes dependent on the chem fert applications instead. Hence the "fade"^^^ a inoculation would help bring the SFW symbiosis back on track, but if you continue with chems don't bother. ORGANIC & CHEM ferts don't mix ever!! as much as the BS fert industry wants you to believe, it's not true. Here some good reading if your serious about growing organically :
http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131 no BS grow shop hype, JUST SCIENCE
If you love your synthetic fert line-ups than stick with cocco/perlite mix and have at it...........but LOS/ROLS grows should NEVER include chemicals===FACT
Just my 2c..........take it as you will
So you need $2000 worth of ferts^^ to grow a hardy C3 plant??? cmon this is complete BS.............break away from the hydro-shop grip fellas!!
Also just my 2c
DLOPEZ1420
Well-Known Member
I just noticed that you guys are running "supersoil" or amended soil(nothing new about this method) and adding CHEMICAL fertilizers too it??? This is an issue I see more and more on RIU recently. You do realize what happens to a Soil Food Web when salt based chem ferts(budblood/cha-ching/$$$/etc.) are added, it destroys your beneficial bacteria/microbe population and the PLANT STOPS getting it's nutrients from the soil itself and becomes dependent on the chem fert applications instead. Hence the "fade"^^^ a inoculation would help bring the SFW symbiosis back on track, but if you continue with chems don't bother. ORGANIC & CHEM ferts don't mix ever!! as much as the BS fert industry wants you to believe, it's not true. Here some good reading if your serious about growing organically :
http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131 no BS grow shop hype, JUST SCIENCE
If you love your synthetic fert line-ups than stick with cocco/perlite mix and have at it...........but LOS/ROLS grows should NEVER include chemicals===FACT
Just my 2c..........take it as you will
P... I alternate feeding. House and Garden and Custom Mycos Teas.. When feed Chems i repopulate my mycos herd with teas...
Ive been growing like this for a wgile now and im still tuning it as i go.
Mixing organic and chem nutes is tricky like a mo fo but the end resilts are freaking awesome..
Btw ive read that book a couple of times and have it as a refetence..
And opinions are like assholes everybody got one.. thanks for ur concern though.. peace...
So you need $2000 worth of ferts^^ to grow a hardy C3 plant??? cmon this is complete BS.............break away from the hydro-shop grip fellas!!
Actually i just bought the all my H&G and accs.. spent 400 for everything... 2k? Really... Wow.. Also H&G. Soil line is as close to organic as u can get in chem ferts.. The finsl product is amazing.. just my 2cs..
Also just my 2c
If u see alot more people trying new ways of growing and getting awesome results... as i am why no try something new... jus sayin.. no hard feelings and thanks for stopping by..
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
No hard feelings grower...........we have enough trolls to deal with first on here
Just trying to save you money ......either go synthetic OR go organic , mixing them/running a "hybrid" system just causes preventable issues IMO. And the soil needs to be fresh/new each run(salt build up).
Have you tried going 100% organic?? your a great grower no doubt, just think the results would surprise you! how much better the product is and way cheaper to run your large grow with Recycled Organic Living Soil(ROLS). Can use it for years+ and keeps getting better and better with age with proper permanent aeration; small lava rock/growstones/permatil/etc...no perlite.
Just a suggestion...........oh the $2000 fert remark was for dramatic effect
be safe
Just trying to save you money ......either go synthetic OR go organic , mixing them/running a "hybrid" system just causes preventable issues IMO. And the soil needs to be fresh/new each run(salt build up).
Have you tried going 100% organic?? your a great grower no doubt, just think the results would surprise you! how much better the product is and way cheaper to run your large grow with Recycled Organic Living Soil(ROLS). Can use it for years+ and keeps getting better and better with age
with proper permanent aeration; small lava rock/growstones/permatil/etc...no perlite.Just a suggestion...........oh the $2000 fert remark was for dramatic effect
be safe
ReefBongwell
Well-Known Member
Looking great! It kind of looks like some of them may be starting to get P deficiency, but could just be me/natural coloring.
Can't speak to mixing chem/organic as I've never done it... i've heard both sides you guys have presented. I'm skeptical you are going to get better results with mixed than well done organic (could get similar results), but no actual experience.
I'm jumping on the tea bandwagon after putting it off for so long... having some P deficiency myself in flower getting ready to make my first batch of tea... what recipe do you use for your flower teas?
Can't speak to mixing chem/organic as I've never done it... i've heard both sides you guys have presented. I'm skeptical you are going to get better results with mixed than well done organic (could get similar results), but no actual experience.
I'm jumping on the tea bandwagon after putting it off for so long... having some P deficiency myself in flower getting ready to make my first batch of tea... what recipe do you use for your flower teas?
This is fucking amazing brother.Day 29.. Blowing the fuck up....
The youtube videos i showed were for reference ..Mr spliff did win a cup last year..Off of this formula.
The good thing about container growing is you can dial a plant in specific for what it likes.
Yea im positive some of the stuff mr spliff was using was not organic.Mostly it was though.Hes not even injecting co2 in the video i seen..his garden is similar to yours.
I do not want to tell you how to grow.Your growing great brother..but if i can throw you ideas it wont hurt you either..unless they are bad ideas..
Im currently not a soil grower.I used to grow with super soil.Soil is a pain in my old back to lump around and mix up.It is in my opinion the highest quality to smoke is organic indoor soil grown weed.
Ive seen some guys grow some real good looking dope on MG on here.
The fact of the matter is the style you are growing in lopez is winning cups.
.Good to hear from your scarce ass.
Ive seen some guys grow some real good looking dope on MG on here.
The fact of the matter is the style you are growing in lopez is winning cups.
.Good to hear from your scarce ass.
papapayne
Well-Known Member
Yea i see this arguement all the time...my philospohy is do what works for you. Obviously lopez has shit together. I know quite a few growers that use super soil/compost tea/ synthetic nutes and have sexy as fuck results. Then again I see growers who touch synthetics and constantly either see burnt to fuck or yellow as fuck and no middle ground. Jacks nutes is a very common nute I see used successfully with organics. Weed is a weed, doesn't require a botany and chemistry degree to grow top shelf medicine.
NorthRiverNugz
Member
This thread is awe inspiring. 
I just browsed through all 86 pages. Keep up the good work DLOPEZ1420!
I just browsed through all 86 pages. Keep up the good work DLOPEZ1420!Papa,Everyone i see running dynagrow..or jacks are pushing to much N..most of the growers using these products are keeping their plants to green all the way to finish and are fucking up the taste of there product doing it.
Many growers have problems just using dynagrows bloom nutes..they only have a N ratio of 3 9 6 ..If you were to run it you would have to add nitrogen to get through the grow with it proper or it will fade to soon.In actuality their grow juice is better suited to bloom than their bloom juice.
When i grew in super soil after the run the soil goes into my veggie garden or other peoples veggie garden that i know of.(Super soil will run the fuck out of some great tasting veggies..
Ive noticed after using different nute lines that some of these nute lines are real heavy in salts.
Heavy salt build up is good for nothing..the plant doesnt like it and neither do i.
The most important thing to keeping a web of life alive in your root zone is to not use chlorinated water.
If the grower colonized the root zone of his plants and keeps reintroducing the bennie bacteria than i dont see as anyway they could be killed off by the salts in the nutes.
For some reason everyone thinks its cheaper to grow organic in dirt.
By the time you are done purchasing bat poop..worm poop. sea bird poop and all the other poops that go into the mix you are spending a pile of money on your dirt.
As much or more than i spend on nutes in my hydro set up.
Weed is a weed..but the marijuana weed..just like the corn beans trees or any other plant has Specific nutritional requirements..just like any plant would.
Knowing what it needs when it needs it is crucial to top results and production outcome.
All of the major nute manif. make base nutes..these base nutes are just what it means..it will provide the basic nutrition to grow a plant..not a specific plant..but almost any plant.
The same difference would be a human sitting around eating twinkies all day and not working out..just sit there get fatter more out of shape and lazy..Or the guy who works out every day and consumes a high protein high carb diet.
The first two weeks of a plants life cycle(two month strain) these are the transition phase of the plant where it transitions from veg state to bloom state.
The next 4 weeks are the plants development stage..The last two weeks are the plants finish stage of development.
The first stage the plant requires NP...The second development state the plant wants more PK..the third or finish stage the plant requires more K..and a slight increase in N.
The last state especially is when you want a slight increase in N and maintain a high K percentage..about what you ran with through the development stage.
It is best to hit the plant in the final stage of finish before it requires it.So i hit my ladies with a increase in NK at day 35 or the end of the fifth week.
This is right before my plants are showing fade.Or showing little fade.This is about the right timing to incease the production and give them enough energy to finish with proper fade at the end and boost production.
There is a reason so many people swear by over drive made by AN.Introduced at day 35 it will give you the energy you need to complete the grow on time with proper fade and increased production quality and density.
I would think though that any product with a similar NPK ratio would be good to accomplish the same thing.
If you dont like a product you used by AN..Take it back and get your money back or a replacement of the product.simple.
There are allot of people who beef on AN..The prices for AN are cheaper in many cases than other nute brands..some just have a hard on for AN for what ever reason.
Ill tell you guys who hate on AN one thing though..you can try their products..if you dont like them..take it back and get your money back you have nothing to lose.
Not many companys are confident enough to say hey..we have a good product..try it..if you dont like it ill give you your money back..WTF you got to lose?NOTHING.
What do you have to gain?LOTS.
Ive told everyone here about a product from them that is golden..bud blood.There is another product they make that is stellar..voo doo juice.It is the best myco on the market bar none..second to none.Big bud and over drive are both outstanding products also.The big bud is rather expensive though..the over drive is pretty cheap.
The first time i used voo doo juice i had roots growing out of the containers in veg and onto the floor..still alive and white.When you picked up a container the roots will pull off of it and have large root structures in the light and air on the floor..i shit you not.How many times has anyone in here seen roots..grow out of the container they are in and onto the floor?
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
I don't do many act/aact applications anymore.........but brewed EWC is always a good tea for a def/veg/flower
You know those NPK#'s are BS with unidentified "fillers" which is rampant in the industry. I don't wanna get into the specifics, but let's just say you don't get what you pay for
also being in anionic form they DON"T bind to the soil and flush out next watering, $$$$ down the drain in feed to waste systems.Amended soils are expensive??? http://buildasoil.com/products/the-clackamas-kit $220(w local soil price included) for a YARD of soil ready to go from seed - finish using a proven recipe by coots himself(just water usually/no ph/nada). You should look at his work, one of the pioneers of ROLS for cannabis. And it doesn't flush out and makes the soil better for the next run. SAVE,SAVE,SAVE.....just add another $120 cc kit next grow or source your own locally if you want to.
Compost(ing) costs almost NOTHING and is one of the best ingredients.
Now onto the Vodoo juice by AN........You honestly think that mycos/beni bacs/fungi in a liquid solution will be viable and thriving in a SEALED(no O2) bottle with nothing to feed on/hypoxic environment....with a shelf life of over a year...lol...cmon. To me it sounds like you a got a plant with tremendous vigor^^(genetics).
NOT trying to fight!!!!!, I'm just interested in why people promote these products.
Winning HT cups means nothing to me, BF's Tangerine Dream won one for christ sake
Yea id agree if you reuse your soil and compost it..Assuming you have a place to store it to compost it.You still have to amend it after use.
A box of bat poop is expensive..so is blood mill.
Its not cheap nor free to grow in dirt is what im getting at.On top of that it is back breaking work to do it right.
It wasnt one strain running roots on the floor..it was all of my strains at that time. I switched to using zone that i like real well..it keeps the res clean and the roots love it.But that being said my experience is mycos will produce more root mass..
The voo doo juice for what ever reason seems to be alive and work great..not just well.
Many forms of mycos come in powdered form,Yet they stay alive and well in powder form.In a jar with no oxygen.
I wish i could tell you how they stay alive in that little bottle with no air..but they do.Maybe its opening the bottle and exposing them to air is what activates the mycos.
My next run that starts tomorrow will be done with voo doo juice and pirana.
The next couple of grows will be done this way..the whole line up but bud factor x and final flush..lets see what happens. Im going to do another grow with what looks like the heavy 16 line up and compare it.
I tell you what..go purchase a bottle of voo doo try it.and it you dont like it take it back and get your money back..simple.Its organic so its not going to hurt your grow a bit.
A box of bat poop is expensive..so is blood mill.
Its not cheap nor free to grow in dirt is what im getting at.On top of that it is back breaking work to do it right.
It wasnt one strain running roots on the floor..it was all of my strains at that time. I switched to using zone that i like real well..it keeps the res clean and the roots love it.But that being said my experience is mycos will produce more root mass..
The voo doo juice for what ever reason seems to be alive and work great..not just well.
Many forms of mycos come in powdered form,Yet they stay alive and well in powder form.In a jar with no oxygen.
I wish i could tell you how they stay alive in that little bottle with no air..but they do.Maybe its opening the bottle and exposing them to air is what activates the mycos.
My next run that starts tomorrow will be done with voo doo juice and pirana.
The next couple of grows will be done this way..the whole line up but bud factor x and final flush..lets see what happens. Im going to do another grow with what looks like the heavy 16 line up and compare it.
I tell you what..go purchase a bottle of voo doo try it.and it you dont like it take it back and get your money back..simple.Its organic so its not going to hurt your grow a bit.
I think winning a cup is a accomplishment for any grower actually..it says he knows his shit and is growing great dope.It says more about the grower and his system of growing than the strain does.
If the growers system of growing was not dialed in he would not be winning cups.
We as growers have to recognize that our system of growing is not the only system or method of growing good dope.There are more than one way of skinning a cat and doing it right.
The results speak for them self's.
If you were working at AN..just a example developing mycos for example..after you do some runs..in hydro by the way.You would check the root zone for active mycos to study how they colonized the root zone?correct?
Well common sense tells us they did do that..this system or organic/synthetic has been in place and working well for a long time now.
I think when done right the grower gets allot of the best of both worlds..he gets organic flavors smells and taste..but gets the increased production and resin content hydro gives us.
What you are saying cant or shouldnt be done has been being done for years now with great results.
AN is one of the few companys that has a protein nutes..they do not salt up at all in your growing media.This may be the difference as to why they work so well in conjunction with mycos.I dont know though.It is just speculation.
It is however not ever normal for roots to run out of a container on to the floor and literally build up root mass under the container.Ive seen it first hand when i was using voo doo juice.
Roots do not like air or light.Id have one ft or longer stringers of roots running across the floor under other plants containers. No shit.
If the growers system of growing was not dialed in he would not be winning cups.
We as growers have to recognize that our system of growing is not the only system or method of growing good dope.There are more than one way of skinning a cat and doing it right.
The results speak for them self's.
If you were working at AN..just a example developing mycos for example..after you do some runs..in hydro by the way.You would check the root zone for active mycos to study how they colonized the root zone?correct?
Well common sense tells us they did do that..this system or organic/synthetic has been in place and working well for a long time now.
I think when done right the grower gets allot of the best of both worlds..he gets organic flavors smells and taste..but gets the increased production and resin content hydro gives us.
What you are saying cant or shouldnt be done has been being done for years now with great results.
AN is one of the few companys that has a protein nutes..they do not salt up at all in your growing media.This may be the difference as to why they work so well in conjunction with mycos.I dont know though.It is just speculation.
It is however not ever normal for roots to run out of a container on to the floor and literally build up root mass under the container.Ive seen it first hand when i was using voo doo juice.
Roots do not like air or light.Id have one ft or longer stringers of roots running across the floor under other plants containers. No shit.