29 days in, powdery mildew becoming rampent

oakley1984

Well-Known Member
so alas with all my knowledge i have finally become stumped at this pain in the ass fungus.

upon noticing the PM approx 12 days ago, i immediatly lowered humidity from 50 to 35%, lollipopped bottom of plants significantly harder than usual added fans to lower and upper canopy and have been treating with PM wash, everyday its coming in harder and more rampent. at this point im not sure if i should just cut my losses and cut the crop, bleach the room and start again.. or if i should continue to treat, or try using different methods for treatment, im really open to advice at this point

(im familiar with all the typical pm remedys, milk/water 1:7, sodium bicarb, baking soda (yes i know both are the same, but some like to list them separately as sodium bicarb can be a lil purer than baking soda)

so erm?

derp? i hate powdery mildew :(
 

Lady Helena

Active Member
Hey, I had that white powdery stuff on my yucca plants a while back. I mixed up water and washing up liquid and squirted them with that and bingo! My old Granddad was a keen veggie grower and he never used anything other than this - he said this sorts everything! Give it a go - nothing to lose! Good luck.
 

Pepe le skunk

Well-Known Member
Hate to tell you but nothing will stop PM once it starts in flower. Nothing safe anyway. I have used Nukem and Actinivate both safe and non toxic up to 3 days before cutting with limited success. The PM still came back after a week with these treatments but it might at least get you to harvest. The only other product that made a dent in the PM was a product called No Powdery Mildew by Greenway Nutreients. It did stop it the longest but it still came back after 10 days and that was followed up with a treatment of Actinavate. If you treat every 5 days you might be able to slow it down to a crawl. Just make sure you dry the plants with a fan after spraying buds and don't do it right before a dark cycle.

Actinavate has also had good results at keeping it away 2 weeks before you go into flower.

If you want to use eagle 20 before you flower the same strain next time and can let it go for 60 days that will stop PM but you cannot use it in flower. Also read up on everything you need to do to protect yourself ie masks and rubber body suit if you decide to spray this product. It is dangerous from what I have read.

The idea behind the milk is the milk bacteria will feed off what the PM eats so it also helps stop pm but that is what is supposed to be in PM wash already.

One last thing PM supposdly starts around the top of the root ball on the stem and works it's way up the plant so drench the stem area also.
Hope that helps.
 

DLOPEZ1420

Well-Known Member
so alas with all my knowledge i have finally become stumped at this pain in the ass fungus.

upon noticing the PM approx 12 days ago, i immediatly lowered humidity from 50 to 35%, lollipopped bottom of plants significantly harder than usual added fans to lower and upper canopy and have been treating with PM wash, everyday its coming in harder and more rampent. at this point im not sure if i should just cut my losses and cut the crop, bleach the room and start again.. or if i should continue to treat, or try using different methods for treatment, im really open to advice at this point

(im familiar with all the typical pm remedys, milk/water 1:7, sodium bicarb, baking soda (yes i know both are the same, but some like to list them separately as sodium bicarb can be a lil purer than baking soda)

so erm?

derp? i hate powdery mildew :(
I had issuses with mold.. I started feeding my ladies silica blast and ive never had a mold problem 1 year later..It solved my pm problem instantlly. Good luck..
 

Pepe le skunk

Well-Known Member
Silica will not stop a PM attack in flower because I have tried it. However if given in water before flower it might help keep it away. You need to get it built up in the plant prior to flowering.
2 cents.
 

DLOPEZ1420

Well-Known Member
Silica will not stop a PM attack in flower because I have tried it. However if given in water before flower it might help keep it away. You need to get it built up in the plant prior to flowering.
2 cents.
Hes only 3 weeks in. It will help. Get silica, feed and trim off all infected areas. It will stop that shit dead in its tracks. Just keep the humidity down as much as possible. Again Good luck. Ohhh bleach everuthing walls,equipment . And change ac foltet. It worked for me..
 

BSD0621

Well-Known Member
Also, ignore everyone on here. they are noob's to growing. PM is easy to take care of. Baking soda at 1 table spoon per gallon with a dash of hand soap will get rid of it. Spray before the lights come on so it has a chance to evaporate and spray ever 2-3 days for a week or so. Good luck
 

DLOPEZ1420

Well-Known Member
Also, ignore everyone on here. they are noob's to growing. PM is easy to take care of. Baking soda at 1 table spoon per gallon with a dash of hand soap will get rid of it. Spray before the lights come on so it has a chance to evaporate and spray ever 2-3 days for a week or so. Good luck
Dont fuck with sodium bi carbonate. Key word sodium.which is salt.
Fucking noobz...
 

max420thc

Well-Known Member
Uh...a sulfer burner.Also mix h2 o2 and spray the plants down with it.silica will help keep your plants healthy so they have a hard time coming down with PM to begin with.
 

Mad Hamish

Well-Known Member
Cut your losses. If the infestation is as bad as you describe, nothing will stop the White Death. You might slow it but that room is so full of spores man. It sucks balls but this is how it is with an indoor monoculture. Especially in a sterile hydroponic growing environment. There is nothing to out-compete this fungus and that is the reason for your problem.
A healthy phyllosphere (leaves) can easily be built up and maintained over your next grow. The use of compost teas as a foliar spray will establish a whole ton of life in the phyllosphere. And these microbes will be very good for your plant indeed. Most BAD micro-organisms grow really fast and can not be out-competed naturally. Most GOOD microbes take a while to establish themselves slowly, but they are STRONGER than the fast growers, and there is a lot you can do to help them. Microbe rich compost teas as a foliar feed will do this for you. They will establish a whole heap of GOOD micro organisms in the phyllosphere, whereby making it really hard for your fast yet much weaker BAD microbes to take a hold. This is how nature does it. It is how we should be doing it.
I have grown many outdoor plants, sometimes conditions at the end of flowering, when the rainy season approaches, can include a humidity of up to 80 percent, even higher just before and after rains. I have NEVER had powdery mildew outdoors. A few days in similar conditions using a sterile hydroponic setup will spell the death of the plants. I don't call it White Death for no reason. This fact was testament enough to convince me to start encouraging microbial growth, the RIGHT kind, on my indoor plants also. So far the results are spectacular.
 

max420thc

Well-Known Member
WOW..listen to me chief..a sulfer burner will kill it straight off(see ebay)..NO MOLD LIVES IN HYDROGEN PEROXIDE ..PERIOD..I DO NOT CARE WHAT ELSE YOU HEAR ON HERE...IT CANNOT ..food grade hydrogen peroxide 35% can be obtained typically at the hydro shop at around 25 bucks for a gallon of it.Mix it in a hudson sprayer accordingly and go to town...it should be done every single day just like i said and you will have no MOLD problems of any type what so ever...Your babys should be sprayed every single day.A few drops of H2O2..in the spray and you never have to worry about it again.NEVER.This should be part of your regular maintenance schedule anyway.Same with mite spray.It should be part of your regular schedule every month or two just to MAKE SURE.The best way to fix a problem is to never have a problem.Good luck again
 
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