2018 Grow your own thread

dienowk

Well-Known Member
"No matter the light source drawing"... Is this correct? As in 1000 Watts of HPS puts out same heat, as a 1000W MH as a 1000W CMH, as 1000W of fluro, as 1000 Watt LED ?If so explain, I thought each type of bulb had different efficiencies so different amount of energy went to lumen output while different amount as heat. As well as bulbs age, they put out less lumens, so the lumen/ratio gets worse.

Plese enlighten if you know more than me, its quite probable

1 watt actual draw = 3.412BTU, it does not matter what draws that watt whether it be a toaster, a light, or a computer. Some lights will produce more usable light per watt due to efficiency of the light source but the heat produced by watts is essentially constant. Here are a pile of energy unit conversions https://www.physics.uci.edu/~silverma/units.html.
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
I find heat is directly related to wattage. Any efficicency claimed otherwise never ran in a tent (energy can not be created or destroyed etc.).

If you are in a good tent all energy goes back to heat. So wattage reduction for decent yield is how to go. Strips or CMH i would say and you will rock the space.

I want a 9 foot x 3 foot space so i can run all my current lights right :D
A watt is a watt but the efficiencies in the latest LED's allows you to run lower wattage to get the same results. CMH is fairly efficient too, specially if you can run a remote ballast. The overhead using CMH or hps is higher too, if you run remote you can manage the extra overhead.
 

CalyxCrusher

Well-Known Member
"No matter the light source drawing"... Is this correct? As in 1000 Watts of HPS puts out same heat, as a 1000W MH as a 1000W CMH, as 1000W of fluro, as 1000 Watt LED ?If so explain, I thought each type of bulb had different efficiencies so different amount of energy went to lumen output while different amount as heat. As well as bulbs age, they put out less lumens, so the lumen/ratio gets worse.

Plese enlighten if you know more than me, its quite probable
Yes it's correct. However some light sources are more efficient at producing more light output with that 1 watt. So a better return so to speak. So you can have a LED drawing 1000w that crushes a 1000W HID at PAR and PPFD output.
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
Yes it's correct. However some light sources are more efficient at producing more light output with that 1 watt. So a better return so to speak. So you can have a LED drawing 1000w that crushes a 1000W HID at PAR and PPFD output.
so the only reason LEDS are cooler than HPS, is because a 500-600W replaces 1000W HPS ? thus less watts less heat? Your 100% sure on all this? I don't feel like going down another rabbit hole, and am gonna just trust you on this knowlege
 

TrainingPineapples

Well-Known Member
so the only reason LEDS are cooler than HPS, is because a 500-600W replaces 1000W HPS ? thus less watts less heat? Your 100% sure on all this? I don't feel like going down another rabbit hole, and am gonna just trust you on this knowlege
Check out Migro on youtube, lots videos of testing various types of light

Basically using LED's you can get more light output for each watt of energy you use in addition to generating less heat (a little less than half the wattage as compared to an hps on average) ... a win win situation if you can wade through all the crap lights out there and get something for a decent price that outputs the amount of light you require

Something else to be aware of is most LED grow lights are advertised using their equivalent wattage and not the actual wattage drawn from the wall which is normally less than half of the advertised output ... a 600 watt LED (in most cases) will end up pulling less than 300 watts from the wall and even less than that if you get the latest LED tech
 

zoic

Well-Known Member
so the only reason LEDS are cooler than HPS, is because a 500-600W replaces 1000W HPS ? thus less watts less heat? Your 100% sure on all this? I don't feel like going down another rabbit hole, and am gonna just trust you on this knowlege
Should you decide you really want more info and decide to go down the rabbit hole, you might find this page helpful.

https://thegreensunshineco.com/hps-vs-led-grow/
 

CalyxCrusher

Well-Known Member
so the only reason LEDS are cooler than HPS, is because a 500-600W replaces 1000W HPS ? thus less watts less heat? Your 100% sure on all this? I don't feel like going down another rabbit hole, and am gonna just trust you on this knowlege
Get this man a joint, absolutely correct.:bigjoint: Just be sure to check what the actual power draw is, as mentioned above shadier manufacturers either won't tell you or advertise as the wattage they replace. I.E they call a 600W a 1000 because thats what it replaces. Look for a good warranty and remember ya get what ya pay for.
 
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Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
I would def either get the samsung quantum boards, or diy, as it doesn't seem terribly difficult to order parts and put one together and making your own custom size frame and footprint is appealing to me. Having a strip every 6 inches I would be able to have it less than a foot from the canopy with nice equal light distribution. OF course this only dawned on me after I spent $500 on hortilux bulbs LOL. Thing I actually hate the most about hps is that $100 bulb lasts 6 months before it pays to replace it based on lumen output degradation. This makes me feel guilty for simply having the lights on!
 

TrainingPineapples

Well-Known Member
I would def either get the samsung quantum boards, or diy, as it doesn't seem terribly difficult to order parts and put one together and making your own custom size frame and footprint is appealing to me. Having a strip every 6 inches I would be able to have it less than a foot from the canopy with nice equal light distribution. OF course this only dawned on me after I spent $500 on hortilux bulbs LOL. Thing I actually hate the most about hps is that $100 bulb lasts 6 months before it pays to replace it based on lumen output degradation. This makes me feel guilty for simply having the lights on!
So unless the lights you are using are CSA approved your house insurance will not cover you if it is determined that any fire that could possibly be caused by diy lights came from diy lights ... this is why I am not going diy

As for replacing hps every 6 months based on lumen output degredation, well lumens don't tell you the whole story since lumens is a measurement of light intensity that does not take into account which wavelengths of the light are actually photo-reactive .... PAR is what you should be using, not lumens ... and on that note, I got a Phillips 400 watt hps bulb that has been running 3 years on a 12/12 timing and I have consistently pulled a half pound from said bulb every crop (give or take) over the past 3 years so I'm not so sure that your assertion is correct
 

TheRealDman

Well-Known Member
So unless the lights you are using are CSA approved your house insurance will not cover you if it is determined that any fire that could possibly be caused by diy lights came from diy lights ... this is why I am not going diy
News Flash....like only 1 insurance Co in Canada will cover ANY MMJ/MJ claim. Never mind lighting issues, Insurance Co’s won’t cover ANY residential Cannabis grows. Furthermore, if you make an unrelated residential claim, and they find your grow, your claim will be denied and the policy itself will immediately be deemed null and void. Don’t even ask what happens if your mortgage holder finds out about an MJ grow! That should all change, but underwriters/banks aren’t rushing to make it happen anytime soon.
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
So unless the lights you are using are CSA approved your house insurance will not cover you if it is determined that any fire that could possibly be caused by diy lights came from diy lights ... this is why I am not going diy

As for replacing hps every 6 months based on lumen output degredation, well lumens don't tell you the whole story since lumens is a measurement of light intensity that does not take into account which wavelengths of the light are actually photo-reactive .... PAR is what you should be using, not lumens ... and on that note, I got a Phillips 400 watt hps bulb that has been running 3 years on a 12/12 timing and I have consistently pulled a half pound from said bulb every crop (give or take) over the past 3 years so I'm not so sure that your assertion is correct
3 years and same yield, thats interesting. Maybe you've gotten better at growing in the last 3 years and those gains you would have seen half been canceled out by the degradation. If you got a new bulb, maybe you would now see a 10-20% jump in yield? As far as lumens versus par, I understand the difference and that par is a better metric to measure. But I don't have $500 for a par meter, and a lux meter for lumens cost $20. It is safe to say that if lumen output goes down, so does par. Par is more or less the lumens in the spectrum 400-700 range.I thought it was common knowledge about bulb degradation, its not my personal assertion, but its good to know that you haven't noticed a difference after 3 years. I won't worry too much then. If i could find proof that degradation does not occur, I could sell my used bulbs for more money. If anyone finds something in regards to this please share.
 

Strudelheim

Well-Known Member
News Flash....like only 1 insurance Co in Canada will cover ANY MMJ/MJ claim. Never mind lighting issues, Insurance Co’s won’t cover ANY residential Cannabis grows. Furthermore, if you make an unrelated residential claim, and they find your grow, your claim will be denied and the policy itself will immediately be deemed null and void. Don’t even ask what happens if your mortgage holder finds out about an MJ grow! That should all change, but underwriters/banks aren’t rushing to make it happen anytime soon.
Yeah thats what I was thinking. If I have a fire and they find out I was growing, its not covered, no matter what. Which is actually a pretty big risk. No matter what you do in your grow room to make sure it is fire safe, that won't help much when your roomate falls asleep with a cigarette in his bed.

Maybe we shouldn't grow our own after all. At least not indoors.
 

gb123

Well-Known Member
sparky by trade
grower for life
Bulbs give up after so many hours of 12/12 or any amount of hours.
Its just how they work.
Sure you can grow with them.
But the plant will produce less meds as ya go.
 

dienowk

Well-Known Member
Yeah thats what I was thinking. If I have a fire and they find out I was growing, its not covered, no matter what. Which is actually a pretty big risk. No matter what you do in your grow room to make sure it is fire safe, that won't help much when your roomate falls asleep with a cigarette in his bed.

Maybe we shouldn't grow our own after all. At least not indoors.
Better yet, don't have fucking retards as roommates.
 

gwheels

Well-Known Member
A watt is a watt but the efficiencies in the latest LED's allows you to run lower wattage to get the same results. CMH is fairly efficient too, specially if you can run a remote ballast. The overhead using CMH or hps is higher too, if you run remote you can manage the extra overhead.
This is
1000w of cfls dude, the future lol
Geeze wouldnt that be hot. They are different i think because there is the additional heat from all of those mini ballasts.
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
so the only reason LEDS are cooler than HPS, is because a 500-600W replaces 1000W HPS ? thus less watts less heat? Your 100% sure on all this? I don't feel like going down another rabbit hole, and am gonna just trust you on this knowlege
I'll second that, 600-650w of high efficiency LED's, I run them at ~30w/sq./ft., 30-35 is plenty whereas hps you're typically running 40-50 to match the output. What I find one of the bigger advantages with LED's is you can either buy or build different form factors. hps or CMH you're stuck with a certain footprint, my room is rectangular so I have a bunch of smaller COB bars, it allows me to spread them out to whatever footprint I'm running, evenly, usually about 3.5 x 8' running 800w.

All-Day42-1.jpg
 

MedicatedHiker

Well-Known Member
News Flash....like only 1 insurance Co in Canada will cover ANY MMJ/MJ claim. Never mind lighting issues, Insurance Co’s won’t cover ANY residential Cannabis grows. Furthermore, if you make an unrelated residential claim, and they find your grow, your claim will be denied and the policy itself will immediately be deemed null and void. Don’t even ask what happens if your mortgage holder finds out about an MJ grow! That should all change, but underwriters/banks aren’t rushing to make it happen anytime soon.
Nope. One insurer tried that a few years ago and they lost in court. They claimed the policy was void. The judge wasn't impressed since the fire was caused by arson.

In short, don't trust insurance industry publications. It's lots of spin.

http://www.vancouversun.com/touch/news/metro/judge+orders+insurance+company+after+arson+destroys+marijuana/11290989/story.html

And growing cannabis is now legal, so...
 
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