20 dying plants, please help

Hey People, I've done ALOT of reading over the past couple of weeks trying to diagnose my plant problem, and have tried a few fixes but no luck. I'll tell ya what I know

Plants Variety (Blue Dream Haze)
Current Phase (Week 5 of
Soil (Miracle Grow, moisture control with slow realease fertilizer...never will use again)
Lights (3 aircooled 600 watt, 12 hour flower, 18 veg)
Ventilation (Sealed - CO2 1200 ppm)
Nutrients (Van de Zwann, A & B, during flowering only)

The plants got away from me and stretched pretty bad during the later veg stage. about that time they started showing signs of problem. hard to describe other than the plants got very yellow and start showing signs like the pics i have posted. we use nutrients at the start of flowering, none other than whats in the potting soil.

the wierdest part to me is that the problem seems to be concentrated directly under the lights, but my temp never goes over 77 and the lights are over a foot from the top of the canopy. the problem started under 400 hps, now they are in my flower room under 600w hps...the problem is definately worse directly under the lights as opposed to the dim sections at the edge of the room. the problem has been concentraded on the water leafs, but some of my white hairs that have brown tips..

I flushed the pots two weeks ago with a flood of tap water. watered once with epsom salts (1 tsp/gal) and started adjusting my PH for ALL of my water and nutrients.

Quick Note...I dont' have a dehumidifier yet, and RH% will get up over 90%. the room is Sealed during the 12 hour lighting cycle, but i air it out just before and just after to get rid of the moisture. this is my second batch, had no issues the first round..

Also, the miracle grow is mixed with 30% perlite for drainage

looks like your missing some nutes. looks short on npk and cal mybe some others. what do you feed and how much?

Van de Zwaan, Soil A & B....15 mL per gallon...

the wierdest part to me and why i'm having a hard time diagnosing is that the problem isnt' on the edge of the leaves, it slowly takes over teh whole leaf

The rust is cal def. I think To me it looks under fed at a few levels. I'm no expert.

Pictures 1-2 shows calcium deficiencies. First one shows late, 2nd one shows early development.







Zinc (Zn) Micro Nutrient and an Immobile element.


Zinc plays a lot of roles in the plants, first off zinc aids in the plants size and maturity as well as production of leaves, stalks, stems and branches. Zinc is an essential component in many enzymes as well as growth hormone auxin .Low auxin levels can be the cause of stunting of the plants leaves and the shoots. Zinc is also important in the formation and activity of chlorophyll. Plants that have a good level of Zinc, can handle long droughts. So that’s why Zinc plants an important role how it absorbs moisture.


Zinc deficiencies on some plants will have the Spotting and bleached spots (chlorosis) between the veins first appears on the older leaves first, and then goes on to the immature leaves. It will then start to slowly affect tips of growing points of the plants. When the zinc deficiency happens so suddenly, the spotting can appear to be the same symptoms to that of an iron and manganese, without the seeing the little leaf symptom.
Zinc is not mobile in plants so the symptoms will occur mainly in the newer growths. Having a plant that is deficiency in Zinc can cause small crops, short shoots and have a cluster of small distorted leaves near the tips. Between the veins (Interveinal) yellowing is often combined with overall paleness. Pale or grayish, yellowing between the veins; rosetted weak is the signs of a Zinc deficiency.
With a low level of zinc in your plants, your yields will be dramatically reduced.
Interveinal chlorosis is present in the small, narrow distorted leaves at the ends of really shortened shoots and the shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. These nutrients will get locked out due to high pH: Zinc, Iron, and Manganese. These deficiencies will often occur together. Parts affected by a zinc deficiency are young leaves and petioles.

Having an excess of Zinc is very rare, but when it does happen it can cause wilting and in worse cases death.


Problems with Zinc being locked out by PH troubles

High ph, Low organic matter, High Phosphorus levels in the soil, and or lack of nitrogen.


Soil

Zinc gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.5-4.7, 7.5-9.5
Zinc absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.0-7.0 (Wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Zinc gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.7-8.5
Zinc is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-5.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.




Solution to fixing a Zinc deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a Zinc deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!)
And any of the following nutrients will fix a zinc deficiency: Zinc sulfate, zinc chelated, or zinc oxides are adequate fertilizer sources for zinc. Or you can bury galvanized nails in the soil. (Make sure you take off the sharp point at the end to prevent roots from being damaged) Garden Manure, which is slow acting. Greensands, Cottonseed Meal are both medium/slow absorption as well.



Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.




Picture 1 is a zinc deficiencies in vegetative growth.


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pinkpearlcaptain said:

Hey People, I've done ALOT of reading over the past couple of weeks trying to diagnose my plant problem, and have tried a few fixes but no luck. I'll tell ya what I know

Plants Variety (Blue Dream Haze)
Current Phase (Week 5 of
Soil (Miracle Grow, moisture control with slow realease fertilizer...never will use again)
Lights (3 aircooled 600 watt, 12 hour flower, 18 veg)
Ventilation (Sealed - CO2 1200 ppm)
Nutrients (Van de Zwann, A & B, during flowering only)

The plants got away from me and stretched pretty bad during the later veg stage. about that time they started showing signs of problem. hard to describe other than the plants got very yellow and start showing signs like the pics i have posted. we use nutrients at the start of flowering, none other than whats in the potting soil.

the wierdest part to me is that the problem seems to be concentrated directly under the lights, but my temp never goes over 77 and the lights are over a foot from the top of the canopy. the problem started under 400 hps, now they are in my flower room under 600w hps...the problem is definately worse directly under the lights as opposed to the dim sections at the edge of the room. the problem has been concentraded on the water leafs, but some of my white hairs that have brown tips..

I flushed the pots two weeks ago with a flood of tap water. watered once with epsom salts (1 tsp/gal) and started adjusting my PH for ALL of my water and nutrients.

Click to expand...

you know, i read your post about your equipment and environment, and i say, "filet mignon!" and then you tell me your growing in hamburger! what are you doing in miracle grow!!! (sorry for yelling.)

what pictures are you referring to? none were posted? thanks man

hey silky..i'm yelling too, i'm all new to this and dint' realize that miracle grow and other slow release ferts were such a pain in the A$$....keep yelling, i'm learning the hardway, gotta learn somehow...bout to start round 3, not sure what i'm gonna use but it sure as hell won't be miracle grow...my first batch didn't turn out that bad, only thing different was no perlite

nope can't get it to work

yeah i made i same mistake with mg. i highly recommend fox farm if u can get it. or just some promix and add nutes.
but right now im having the exact same prob with the brown spots and yellowing. and nobody can figure it out.im gonna go with it being a mag def. http://forum.grasscity.com/sick-plants-problems/246040-deficency-nute-burn-pics.html read the one about mag. does that sound like ur plant?

I would start using a complete N-P-K nutrient, there may be a few different deficiencies happening here, but I definately see a potassium deficiency. A complete NPK nute will clear this up. You can mix soluble potash (wood ash) with water to add potassium, but the ph of soluble potash is very high, ph+down will even it out though. Yellowing + brown spots = K deficiency.

pinkpearlcaptain said:

hey silky..i'm yelling too, i'm all new to this and dint' realize that miracle grow and other slow release ferts were such a pain in the A$$....keep yelling, i'm learning the hardway, gotta learn somehow...bout to start round 3, not sure what i'm gonna use but it sure as hell won't be miracle grow...my first batch didn't turn out that bad, only thing different was no perlite

Click to expand...

There should be a disclaimer as soon as you log onto this site that just says "WARNING NEVER EVER USE MIRACLE GROW" That $hit is terrible!

I think i'm using a complete NPK. Brand is VAN DE SWAAN, HG AARDE A&B. Stats are as follows

A - (N) 2.0% total nitrogen
- (K20) 1.0% Soluble Potash
B - (N) 1.0% total nitrogen again
- (P2O5) 1.1% available phosphate
- (Mg) 0.5% water soluble mg


So I for sure am using Nitrogen (N), Potassium (P) , and phospate (K)....do you think i still need to switch to something else?

actually looks to me like you have too much Ca which is causing Mg def.

i think you should just stop using the nutes. that was seems to be the problem. i mean you can risk on killing 20 of your FEMALE plants if u want. just my 2 cents here

wow blame it on soil and nutes that's easy. Your the one that bought them and added them right? Im using Miracle grow organic potting mix and I almost assumed that it was my problem but it turned out i was using a fert too high in phosphorus and not enough nitrogen, it looked like pH and nute burn combined, sometimes too much of one thing can fuck up the whole deal, why dont you think about what you have put in and what have you put the most of in and where things went from there better worse? think about what you did the day before the problem started. I log everything I do in my grow each day so if shit goes bad i can look back and see when I fucked up, cause im high im not going to remember that shit lol

I have some of that same, rust colored shit on 2 Misty Clones I got from a dude growing Hydro...I cut the collars off and dropped them in potting mix.......

That's for sure Calcium Def..
Since I've been feeding with calcium food it's slowly but surely going away.

Long story short, I'm already over it.

TODAY I TOOK CUTTINGS! These cuttings will have a better life indeed..

so we learn

i would also guess that some of those pics look like a calcium deficiency... followed by over fertilization... the ferts build up until the leaves dry out. the ones under the light are the worst 'cuz they were trying to grow the fastest and pull the most nutes when it was happening.

if ur not using RO water you could be significantly effecting the plants ability to use particular nutes. Also, your nutes are in no way complete if that is the only things listed on the label. You'd be missing sulphur and a whole lot of other micro nutrients - any one of which will eventually lead to serious growth problems, especially as the limited supply in the soil is exhausted. I like G.H. nutes... they are complete with no need to add Cal/Mag or the like. Good luck man. Unfortunately, with soil ... the fix is going to take a little while to take effect even if you do happen upon the solution.

I would try flushing very well with RO water... then coming back with a 600 ppm complete nutrient solution... and make sure that the soil isn't over damp after doing so. Also foliar feed with the same ppm solution a couple times a day until the root system is able to give the plant what it needs.
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