1600 watts in 32 cubic feet. Blue Mystic just transplanted.

RoughGrows said:

I'm not really an expert on much of this, but it seems to me that there is a difference between water soluble nutes and non water soluble nutes. I notice that on these House and Garden bottles on the "guaranteed analysis" it says "Water Soluble nute x" whereas my general hydro bottles say "chelated nute x"

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This is what I was ytrying to convey ... True organics will not be soluable for a hydroponic medium, as they require to soil to break-down, though you`ve now reassured us that they are fully water soluable nutes . Also a little froth isn`t bad, if it starting browning though and sticking to the root system, something will have to be done

Otherwise keep an eye on it, and make sure the the res changes are weekly, any shorter and your mycos won`t have time to colonate properly. Keep up the good work RG

KC

I wasn't trying to give you a lesson in nutrient uptake for plants man it seems to me like you have a pretty decent understanding of it and I'm sure you have far more knowledge than i on the subject, my only points were that hydroponics have been used since before the advent of chemical fertilizers so all hydro is not necessarily synthetic and that i didn't see much point in "Mychorrhizaeaiejeeerie" when pretty much all nutrients are widely available in hydroponic nutrient solution, although i was not aware that his specific nutrient blend recommended using "Mychorrhizaeaiejeeerie" in conjunction with it.

RoughGrows said:

Yeah, I added the "great white" mychorhizaeaiejeeerie to "compete" with the non beneficial bacterias; if anything. I noticed that when I added the hygrozyme to my water it frothed up fairly quick so I think this may be the cause of my frothyness. I'm going to run this system for a week and see whats going on. When I washed off the roots yesterday they were nice and strong and very few were weak enough that I could break them without applying unreasonable force. In a week I'll dump this res and do another round of maintenance. In the mean time, I'll just cover the white lid with some thick black plastic, thanks for the heads up, I totally thought it was lightproof. I probably have a huge algae buildup, eh?

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I'm guessing that's probably your problem man i haven't had algae in dwc but I've seen what it looks like in my drip pans and i can imagine that it could get pretty bad in a reservoir, as far as the lid goes I'm not positive that its not light proof but white does not absorb light it reflects it, so its really not a very good light proofing material, if you want to confirm this just go out side and hold it up to the sun if you see light it ain't light proof, also you might want to put a layer of white plastic over the black plastic, black absorbs light and converts it into heat and heat reduces the capacity of air that the water can absorb.

psilocybindude said:

I wasn't trying to give you a lesson in nutrient uptake for plants man it seems to me like you have a pretty decent understanding of it and I'm sure you have far more knowledge than i on the subject, my only points were that hydroponics have been used since before the advent of chemical fertilizers so all hydro is not necessarily synthetic and that i didn't see much point in "Mychorrhizaeaiejeeerie" when pretty much all nutrients are widely available in hydroponic nutrient solution, although i was not aware that his specific nutrient blend recommended using "Mychorrhizaeaiejeeerie" in conjunction with it.

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Hey man, I`m sorry if I came off ... brash, for lack of a better word. Just want everyone to have good information they can use from. Give a fish vs teach the skill or something along those lines .. . And anyone that would argue your point against ancient hydroponics could, and would, be easily disproven. Good links by the way

KC

And that mild frothing won`t be bad for your res RG unless it`s thick in it`s consistancy or starting to discolor or attach to the root system. Give it a week and get back to us ... I be waiting

KC

Nice and white roots since I covered my lid with plastic. I think it was light leaking though the lid and causing old bacterias that were in the res to come back maybe? Either way, I blacked it out and the plants have gotten larger so they are shading the lid more now too. Roots are healthy!

KushCanuck said:

And that mild frothing won`t be bad for your res RG unless it`s thick in it`s consistancy or starting to discolor or attach to the root system. Give it a week and get back to us ... I be waiting

KC

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Roots are looking nice and healthy again. The frothyness in the water has gone away; I think this frothyness is a product of the hygrozyme. I'm going to changing out my res again here in a few days. Im about to add in my Co2 to the room as well, today!

mrblu said:

maybe try some h202 if you are not already

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I've been reading and talking to my local grow guy, and he says that using H202 in conjuction with beneficial bacterias is a bad idea. Reason being that beneficial bacterias will be killed by the h202 and then you have all these "dead bodies" laying around in your water. "Dan" at my local hydroshop told me thats a BIG NONO. h202 or benefical bacterias. one or the other! Thanks for the advice though, I don't think that I had mentioned that I was using beneficals at this point!

RoughGrows said:

I've been reading and talking to my local grow guy, and he says that using H202 in conjuction with beneficial bacterias is a bad idea. Reason being that beneficial bacterias will be killed by the h202 and then you have all these "dead bodies" laying around in your water. "Dan" at my local hydroshop told me thats a BIG NONO. h202 or benefical bacterias. one or the other! Thanks for the advice though, I don't think that I had mentioned that I was using beneficals at this point!

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This is true, H2O2 will kill your little added bene`s. Great chemical for resevoirs NOT housing bacterial life to avoid fungus or algae, but if you have any added beneficials, they`ll perish with the intro of H2O2. At least your hydro guy isn`t a wanker

KC

My local hydro guy has been the most knowledgable person in the growing field I have met. You can tell he is a genuine enthusiast and doesn't really have interest in making money from it. He has even offered to make BHO or bubblehash for me using his methodology etc; and I guess he does this for a 20% cut of the final weight. Pretty awesome! He's no wanker!! hahaha
Anyhow, im about to go downstairs and take a video of the girls. They are doing GREAT. I added my Co2 yesterday and a second eco air 3 air pump to help keep the bacteria down!

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2vs6SnJ1s4

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE

It`s looking real good mate, those are the roots I like to see . Forgot at this point, but you know when you`re flipping over or have you done that, haha . They are going to be massive unless you get to training before flower. Love it man, I`ll keep up on this.

Just trained my Leader today, in my sig, looking awesome. Keep it green brother

KC

Im trying to train them a little bit as of now. It has been troublesome to do it because I didn't think they were healthy and stuff, so I didn't want to hurt them anymore then I had to. I'm going to start weighing down the mainstems and stuff with fish weights and twine soon. I'll be switching them to flower in a monthish? I figure once they are about 40% of the way up my grow room, ill switch.

Looking good man glad to hear that you got rid of your brown ectoplasm problem, how tall are your plants now, are you sure about that veg time? They say the plants will double or triple in size from the height you flip the switch at and that sounds like a very cramped grow tent to me, also have you considered super cropping? it seems to me like it would accomplish the same goal with out all the extra BS of the fishing string and weights...

psilocybindude said:

Looking good man glad to hear that you got rid of your brown ectoplasm problem, how tall are your plants now, are you sure about that veg time? They say the plants will double or triple in size from the height you flip the switch at and that sounds like a very cramped grow tent to me, also have you considered super cropping? it seems to me like it would accomplish the same goal with out all the extra BS of the fishing string and weights...

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What do you guys think about a 12/12 swap on 4/20? 36 hours of dark starting 4/18 at Noon?

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPXkDl3NZXQ&feature=youtu.be


update update update update update update

RoughGrows said:

What do you guys think about a 12/12 swap on 4/20? 36 hours of dark starting 4/18 at Noon?

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If your target height is between 34-51 inches it sounds perfect, I've never done the darkness period before flowering though so i cant speak on that, are you planning on keeping that side lighting like that threw out the entire grow? I had never thought of doing that but i bet you could get some awesome result with that since the light wont being blocked by all of the fan leaves on the top layer...

RoughGrows said:

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPXkDl3NZXQ&feature=youtu.be


update update update update update update

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Looking good man.

psilocybindude said:

If your target height is between 34-51 inches it sounds perfect, I've never done the darkness period before flowering though so i cant speak on that, are you planning on keeping that side lighting like that threw out the entire grow? I had never thought of doing that but i bet you could get some awesome result with that since the light wont being blocked by all of the fan leaves on the top layer...


Looking good man.

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My grow room is 48 inches tall and my light can be suspended down to a minimum height of about 40 inches. I've been pinching them and FIM topping here and there so HOPEFULLY they don't decide to explode upwards too damn much! I better switch to flower soon!

As to the 36 hour dark period, I've heard that this is a sort of "reset" for their internal clocks and helps to kick them in the ass towards flowering and is generally only very useful when you've been vegging for 24 hours a day; as they've had no precursors that WINTER IS COMING, and they'd better flower soon.

Yes, I will be keeping the side light in the entire grow, and its main purpose is actually more for flower then veg if you look at its height, it is almost getting wasted during veg and I've considered not even having it on, but I figured since my room is nearly light tight it can't be useless.

Thanks for hanging out on the ride!!

yeah man you better flower very soon waiting till 4/20 might be to long, ive heard about the darkness thing but wasnt aware it was for people who veg 24/7 ive been vegging 24/7 since i started this grow so i might have to try that out and see how well it works, as far as the side lighting goes its a great idea and i hope it works out for you although im not sure how well it will because of the way leaves seem to oriantate themselves to catch light...

Leaves actually only block about 15% of the light energy, the rest passes directly through the plant. Also, I figure that a 600 watt light has a 4 foot penetration, and thats the largest distance from any point to any other point in my room; also, the light source is about where I figure the "tops" of the plants are going to be, so I'm trying to make the "strongest" light source in the room BELOW my 1000 watt in the unfounded theory that they will try to grow to the height of the strongest light, but thats just personal theory and theres no science to back it.

They officially start flowering at 6:00 AM 4/20/13. Just gave them a nutrient change! Wish me luck for the last phase, updates tomorrow!