12 plants under 600w hps super bulb?

jswett1100

Well-Known Member
If they are finishing 3 tall, healthy and not stretched (do you have a pic?) then you should consider topping next time to keep them shorter, even out the canopy and yield more. I've seen some things on deep pots promoting taller plants, rather than wider pots. So I'm interested if you have pics, as it could confirm that burying plants deeper on transplant is actually limiting.

Your watering schedule sounds iffy to me. I don't know how well it does in organics but the bottom 10/20% of your bag is surely a breading ground for nasty shit. Do you check the roots immediately after chop?. The lack of dry cycle by all accounts will lead to troubled root development/health and hold back yields. But, maybe your roots are shooting down and filling some of the bottom before that happens?.

Btw 2 feet above is too far. For 600hps 18" is about as far as you want to get before density suffers (particularly mid/lower bud) bare in mind 18" from center canopy will bowl out to about 22"+ on canopy edge. Are you vegging from comparable distances?.
Well the only thing i know is the only time i water them is when i can lift the pot and its not as heavy like you can tell if there dry and are ready for the next watering i dont let them stay wet for a long time its just because theres so much soil the plants take a while to use up all of the water. there not stringy i cut all of the lower brances and leaves off after stretch the blue dreams are just large plants.
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Well the only thing i know is the only time i water them is when i can lift the pot and its not as heavy like you can tell if there dry and are ready for the next watering i dont let them stay wet for a long time its just because theres so much soil the plants take a while to use up all of the water. there not stringy i cut all of the lower brances and leaves off after stretch the blue dreams are just large plants.
If the plants take a week or more (aside from the first week after transplant) then something is a miss by all accounts, pot size, lack of lighting/heat and so forth. If you check around the forums you will find a lot of info on how the wet/dry cycle promotes root development in soil, and how stagnant/wet feet effect root zone. Again I don't know too much about organics and microbial activity possibly helping in this situation but do go and check this all out because if it is a problem, it will be costing root development > yield.
 

jswett1100

Well-Known Member
Id like to post a pic but my iphones being stupid.
If the plants take a week or more (aside from the first week after transplant) then something is a miss by all accounts, pot size, lack of lighting/heat and so forth. If you check around the forums you will find a lot of info on how the wet/dry cycle promotes root development in soil, and how stagnant/wet feet effect root zone. Again I don't know too much about organics and microbial activity possibly helping in this situation but do go and check this all out because if it is a problem, it will be costing root development > yield.
I agree but its just because there in being pots then they need to be since they only veg 4 weeks. its not like they look like there doing bad at all they are all praying and they have always. im thinking of downsizeing the pots but that will only require me to water more often im not sure if that would be a benefit. 7 gallons is a lot for a plant to use all the water from especially if they dont have a huge root system.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
With that kind of space. You should be doing 1K's or better and knocking it out of the park.....Hell, I would need side lighting for that kinda space and 30' ceilings......
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Id like to post a pic but my iphones being stupid.

I agree but its just because there in being pots then they need to be since they only veg 4 weeks. its not like they look like there doing bad at all they are all praying and they have always. im thinking of downsizeing the pots but that will only require me to water more often im not sure if that would be a benefit. 7 gallons is a lot for a plant to use all the water from especially if they dont have a huge root system.
Again you need to read up on the wet dry cycle and understand why more dry outs upto a point is a benefit. Convenience vs more effort/yield is ofc something you have to weigh up yourself. As perspective, some people manually feed in coco every day, twice a day or more is also done by people, they get huge yields. In soil a dry out every 3 to 5 days is a good trade off for convenience, depending on pot size, mostly less yield than coco though. Pot size dictation to ensure enough dry cycles comes down to veg time, a pot your size could easily dry out in 4 days but you'd have to veg a lot longer to build a root system to make that possible. If your setup works similar to light mix/synthetic then all you are doing is wasting a lot of good soil while likely slowing down root development or even killing off roots due to anaerobic spots. They can still look healthy up top, it's not a black and white indication of the root zone development/health. It's also good to point out that two plants in the same environment but different size pots can both look healthy but the one in the more applicable sized pot (even if it's smaller) will yield more due to a happier more efficient root system. This ofc goes both ways, you don't want a pot that is too small, like say 1 gal with a 8 week veg.

Try a side by side if you are unsure. 2 or 3 gal pot vs the 7 gal, assuming you stick to 4 week veg.
 

jswett1100

Well-Known Member
Again you need to read up on the wet dry cycle and understand why more dry outs upto a point is a benefit. Convenience vs more effort/yield is ofc something you have to weigh up yourself. As perspective, some people manually feed in coco every day, twice a day or more is also done by people, they get huge yields. In soil a dry out every 3 to 5 days is a good trade off for convenience, depending on pot size, mostly less yield than coco though. Pot size dictation to ensure enough dry cycles comes down to veg time, a pot your size could easily dry out in 4 days but you'd have to veg a lot longer to build a root system to make that possible. If your setup works similar to light mix/synthetic then all you are doing is wasting a lot of good soil while likely slowing down root development or even killing off roots due to anaerobic spots. They can still look healthy up top, it's not a black and white indication of the root zone development/health. It's also good to point out that two plants in the same environment but different size pots can both look healthy but the one in the more applicable sized pot (even if it's smaller) will yield more due to a happier more efficient root system. This ofc goes both ways, you don't want a pot that is too small, like say 1 gal with a 8 week veg.

Try a side by side if you are unsure. 2 or 3 gal pot vs the 7 gal, assuming you stick to 4 week veg.
Thanks for the input! i have a plant running in a 2 gallon right now and if it comes down to it i will be using smaller pots, I think part of the reason they don't dry out very fast is because i'm using the white bags, I really need to get the fabric pots that would help allot.
 

Flowki

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input! i have a plant running in a 2 gallon right now and if it comes down to it i will be using smaller pots, I think part of the reason they don't dry out very fast is because i'm using the white bags, I really need to get the fabric pots that would help allot.
Skip the fabric pots, I've seen a few experienced growers who've no doubt used them say they are not good. As Johnny linked, those pots are good but imo http://air-pot.com/garden/ are superior, although more expensive they are worth it. They guide the roots into the air holes a lot better, the type johnny use are good don't get me wrong, but you will still see root circling, especially in the bottom.

If you go with the ones I linked and are in soil, put a sponge under each pot in the tray (if you use trays). Leave run off in the tray for an hour or so to let the sponge wick water back into the soil. Water tends to leach out of soil too fast (more of a problem given all the air holes) with a lot of wasted run off otherwise. If you need to have run off then water a little more if the tray is empty when you return. Try not to move the pots and roots will grow into the sponges, helping the wick effect more. You also want the bottom mesh section of the pot on the lowest rail possible, leaving as little space between tray and mesh. That helps the sponge wick better.

If you don't use a tray then you'll need to water more slowly, 2L every 30 min or so as an example, giving the roots time to soak up water and avoid flooded run off/needless waste.
 
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