1000w hps is overworking my leaves

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Light bleaching will cook the very tops of the colas and any leaves at that height. It's the radiant heat and light intensity from the bulb so it doesn't matter if you are using a sealed hood with glass tho that can be closer than than an open reflector before bleaching will happen. The leaves will go brown to white when bleached.

With heat stress the pointy edges of the leaves will stand up first and as it gets worse the leaves will curl in like a taco. If the leaf tissue is saturated with salt buildup those leaves closest to the light will also look like nute burn and start going yellow/brown/orange and dry up 'til they're crispy while ones lower down look OK tho they aren't far behind as the salt buildup is everywhere if it's at the tops. Toxic salts buildup will usually show first with the oldest leaves then work it's way up and into the plant if heat stress isn't involved and is very common around the middle of flowering. Soft yellow fan leaves are normal as the plant gets closer to being done but thick crispy yellow ones are from the salts.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I get same type issue on mine. Its one good sized broad flat topped plant, the portion right under my light looks N defficient. The corners out from being direct under light look fine.

Its 18" i wished for 6 more but mis estimated hight when i LSTed her in late veg... thats all the room i can give her. I always switch right go bloom nutes right at 12/12 change after a couple straight waters at end of veg and one after the flip. Im thinking next round go first week to two on veg nutes....
I almost always start my bloom nutes a week before I flip to prime the pump. I just add more Bloom to the mix and toss in a half dose of Big Bud. Plants are extra hungry during the stretch so I want them going in with a full belly. :)
 

ipeeinpools

Well-Known Member
Lol sorry, i couldnt explain it the way this master electrician guy i know did....he runs the hortilux golds and he was explaining things while he was hooking up my 240v, but basically you get more intensity of your light at 120hz. I hate that i cant explain what i mean so ill text the guy and get back to yall.
 

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
I would like to know too. I asked about it above but got no response. There was a video a few years back with them running the Super hps with a platinum Hortilux ballast. And it was much "whiter" looking.

But that is discontinued I think. Wonder why?
Sounds like a smart move for a high end company since all the gas bulbs are moving over to DE, no sense keeeping old tech around. Thats just what im thinking, idk lol.

In regarding light color & output it would depend on what ballast/bulb combo your comparing with.
A digital 22khz< ballast should have more light or a slightly shifted spectrum over the magnetic because its output runs at a much higher pulse (frequency) to achive its operating current.

For example
Ballast A can strike its output 60 times a second
10v per pulse at 60hz is 600v per second

Ballast B can strike its output 120 times a second with 5v per pulse, the difference between ballast is they use different width of pulses to achieve the same amplitude of power. When you dim a digital ballast, it is reducing the pulse width which negates the advantages of a digital ballast lol
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a smart move for a high end company since all the gas bulbs are moving over to DE, no sense keeeping old tech around. Thats just what im thinking, idk lol.

In regarding light color & output it would depend on what ballast/bulb combo your comparing with.
A digital 22khz< ballast should have more light or a slightly shifted spectrum over the magnetic because its output runs at a much higher pulse (frequency) to achive its operating current.

For example
Ballast A can strike its output 60 times a second
10v per pulse at 60hz is 600v per second

Ballast B can strike its output 120 times a second with 5v per pulse, the difference between ballast is they use different width of pulses to achieve the same amplitude of power. When you dim a digital ballast, it is reducing the pulse width which negates the advantages of a digital ballast lol

Good info!

And I agree about the dimming. I like to use mine as a select a watt. I keep 400's around for the hottest days.
 
Is there a difference from bleaching and leaf overworked by too intense of light? Or are those two words for same shinanigan?
Bleaching to me is when the light is too close/intense in a specific spot. I think that the problem I'm experiencing is that the intensity of the light as a whole is pushing the plant to a level of growth that my typical nutritional regimen can't keep up with. I need to experiment with higher concentrations of feed or maybe even make the switch to hydro for more efficient uptake. My .02
 

Huckster79

Well-Known Member
Yea. Maybe i shoulda have got my co2 setup again as i beleive they can use more light when they are on the gas...
 

Huckster79

Well-Known Member
Mine is getting very bleached no burnt crispy look but very bleached leaves, buds still look nice but quite sure its not a deficiency because outer corners that arent right under the light look perfect.

I cannot move light further away, cant bend em any lower.

But heres two ideas, input please:

I could attempt go rotate her, not sure i can as plant is rectangular tifif your looking from above and fills half the square room.

And or

Lowering the "on" time of the hps gradually, but leave my supplimental T5s, leds and cfls on same 12/12 they are on.... to back down the bleaching time even a scouch
 
Top