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I've always counted from the day the seed broke ground but breeder estimates are often a joke plus every plant and environment is different.

I start them in peat plugs in a seed starting tray and try to transplant ASAP after they break ground. I've found they grow bigger, faster, this way. This is an extreme example but the larger plant was transferred to its final pot day 1, the other day 11. Otherwise treated exactly the same, same...

Hey man it's been a rough few years for everyone. Try not to be too hard on yourself. You're correct that you shouldn't neglect your mental health, and I'm in that same boat. Hell I'm even browsing this forum years after having last posted, or last grown. Point is, you recognize that neglect and...

They won't even notice. Cloudy days and thunderstorms happen all the time in nature.

You just need some sort of intake from the lung room to the outside space and it should pull the cooled air through both rooms. Your fan is creating negative pressure in all 3 rooms but there is nowhere for fresh air to enter because you created a sealed lung room over your old intake.

What kind of intake do you have on the lung room? Is it connected directly to the A/C unit with ducting? Edit: From what I can see the AC is cooling the lung room but if you want that air to circulate through the other two rooms you need a passive intake on the lung room, or you can plumb your...

Just keep an eye on it if you're in an area that gets cold winters. A cold attic plus humid exhaust creates a lot of condensation and by the time it hits the drywall it's created quite a few problems.

I'd advise against exhausting into your attic. It can cause mold problems, in your house not your tent, that can become pretty severe depending on your climate and how the attic is vented. Upsizing the exhaust once you're in the attic will make the additional length much less restrictive. Edit...

Lower humidity helps but there are other factors in play as well. The density and size of the colas can create the right conditions for it even with low RH in the air. In my experience the best way to prevent bud rot is to focus on keeping your plants healthy all the way through to harvest.

Humidity tends to rise naturally right after the lights shut off and temps drop. I keep the clip fans running to prevent any condensation on the plants which can lead to rot and mold. Hell I keep fans on them 24/7 from seed to harvest.

What they said. Wait until all the other signs of ripening are present and then begin looking at trics to dial in your harvest day. I'd say a week or two on those.

Google wasn't entirely wrong, they just weren't clear on what many meant. If going solely by pistils, make a note when 80% have changed color and started to curl back into the buds, then wait 2 more weeks and chop. I'm guessing you have 3-4 weeks to go, a week or two for the pistils to change...

Yes, more weeks. When almost ALL of the pistils are red, and the buds have swelled, then you can start checking trichomes. You still have weeks to go. I'd guess around 3 but every plant/environment is different.

I can see visible growth in the pictures you posted. Do you have pictures of the other plant? It's probably just different pheno's. Northern Lights tends to take a long time to finish. Either way, the plant doesn't look unhealthy so I'd ride it out and expect that one to be a late finisher.

They posted pics from Sunday in another thread. You flushed very very early if you started two weeks ago. I'd start feeding again and begin flushing when more than half of the white pistils have darkened and retracted. Based on the Sunday pics that's a week or two away still.

My thoughts, and they're just thoughts, as to why it is a non-issue is the timing. The plants growth and flowering stages are largely finished at this point. The buds left on the plant are ripening but not gaining too much size and mass. There isn't much to stunt. You're also taking the flowers...

At this point I'd just let it grow. It will stretch as flowering begins but at only 4" tall the fimming definitely stunted it a bit. Try to keep it healthy through this run and work on the training a little more with the next bunch. I try to have all my training done by day 28 on an auto but if...

I did read it, I just didn't realize you would hang your hat on nitrogen going from ~4.3% to ~4% of total biomass. I don't care if someone flushes or not and I'm not here to settle that debate. I was just genuinely curious what lab test the post I responded to thought unflushed cannabis would fail.

Yes it is time consuming. Any time you breed a photo with an auto you need to backcross the offspring to another auto, then begin stabilizing with the 25% of those offspring that carry the autoflowering trait. Really gives you respect for the auto breeders who produce stable strains.

The autoflowering gene is recessive from my understanding so you will not get any autoflowering plants unless the critical orange had an autoflowering parent as well. The seeds will be all female though.