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Id get 3x 3070 now for the same Price. Regarding heatsinks, fans and other small things those 3 would be cheaper. My space is 54x 74cm. Leaving the 40x 3W leds out, thats 10 Arrays covering that area. With them nicely spread, I can put the lights really close to the plants -less light gets...

My 1st grow I ran 6x 30W chinese Arrays (4x ww, 2x R) and 40x red Epistar 3W near max. 2nd grow, 160W, i reused them all @ half current and added 4x 100W Arrays @ 15W, 6 from seed, soil, 3/6 unknown strains, 2 Plants yielding far less (one of them other pheno of same strain, sensi Skunk#1) than...

i think its 630nm 30W Arrays my 3W red are 1:1 630:660 CW i use for mothers and clones

ebay: 380515680644 sry its not 11$ they got even cheaper

cheap chinese led W/R-combo 160W 100W 11$ chinese wwhite arrays and 3W red Epistars, 2nd grow 1,1g/W -im happy

can be solely because of phototrophism and doesnt necessarily mean its a better light source

but in regard to photosynthesis this additional energy has to go somewhere

isnt it the other way around? http://www.licor.com/env/pdf/light/TechNote126.pdf Figure 1C or Fig 2

In the link I gave there you will find the complete article as pdf in which you can find this, so there is no need to talk about lower leaves or canopy penetration, as this still referes to intra leaf: As Nishio (2000) clearly postulated, and as we have detailed so far, red or blue light is...

I just wanted to say green leds are not very efficient. But white Leds include a lot of green. There are other studies. E.g. in one they completly exchange the blue light for green light at same light Level. Result was no difference in dry matter/biomass. So "positive effect" might be...

Some early LED backlights for TVs utilized RGB LEDs, but the designs generally had to include two green LEDs for every red and blue one [...] Green LED inefficiency stems from a semiconductor physics phenomenon called the charge separation effect. In green LEDs, electrons and electron holes are...

Look at your test: 408W output/ with 150W light, its impossible. Your test was done wrong and its value is very low. You cant just take the max value in the middle and say thats true for one sq metre. MrFlux comments seem harsh but theres a lot of truth in it. search riu for mrflux...

408 PAR W/m^2 @ 3"--> 408W Radiation out of 150W electricity? this sounds impossible to me maybe thats why u have a problem with "no lenses". Lens means high value on your footcandlemeter or ur NIST test...but only in the middle. You had one measurepoint in your test...you didnt actually put it...

As Nishio (2000) clearly postulated, and as we have detailed so far, red or blue light is preferentially absorbed by the chloroplasts in the upper part of the leaf. Then, when PPFD is high, the energy of these wavelengths tends to be dissipated as heat by the upper chloroplasts, while green...

ur enclosure looks so nice i wanna hug it

thx Are you sure? I remember Oslon SSL reds having 48% at 350mA. Dont think any WW gets really near that.

Would be interesting if you had flowered plants under those CW, have you? Maybe since CW are more efficient in lightput compared to WW, this could compensate for the lack in the red region, or could even be better. Or instead of CW maybe NW, which still puts more light out then WW. I know the...

very nice. So for vegging with CXA3070 you use just WW? Noticed a difference compared to CW on the ATs?

if there is written on the soil description "pH 5,7", my drain pH must have been there all along. So if the soil is way too acidic, how is it possible that I had no issues so far - 6 Weeks Veg without adding fertilizer, just rain water and tap water, made 30 Cuttlings.. And now flower day 31, 2...

You mean they dimly glow after lights out? Try putting in the powerplug turned by 180°, changing L and N or turn the timer in the power socket. Solved it for me -caused by the timer Switch cutting the wrong power line.