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and if i wanted to fix the inversion, just:

So when you say backwards, do you mean it just inverts the PWM duty cycle? Or like.... does the driver actually flip polarity on its outputs? Inversion I can deal with- but flipping polarity just... sounds like something the driver should protect itself against? AKA impossible? Ok, cool... so...

Optocoupler really does sound ideal- it's essentially like a relay right?

I got a model of both your circuits working in the simulator, seems to all check out fine. I'm just super confused why I need a voltage source? I've seen some other circuits that show that, but like.... if you can just change the resistance between DIM+ and DIM-, isn't that its own voltage...

So I tried one of those... shitty free simulations, but I think I'm having issues modeling what kind of circuit the actual... dimmer leads are? It looks to me like its a 10v+ lead and and a 0V- sink (input? is this even a ground?). Do i treat that as a voltage source? Or is this damn thing more...

crap, forgot a relatively large point: My net cups, I germinate in rockwool (like in the first post) plus i have some pieces of rockwool around the side, then hydroton on top. I think the rockwool really helps gives a place for the fungi to "cling on", like you said. As far as carbs- yea, my...

So, what ive heard as far as mychs in DWC * They like a higher pH (5.5-7.5) * They don't need carbs- they'll only breed when colonized on the roots, and the plant is exuding organic acids. You can't manually breed them without synthetic chemicals. Humic/fulvics i guess also help 'release'...

@churchhaze i summon thee! lol

So is this circuit possible with just the DIM+ lead as the 10v power supply? DIM+ as Vcc (10), DIM- as out? Like this:

Took me about 3 weeks before they touched water (8" gap tho!)- I put em in the system pretty much right after that picture was taken. So, top drip in DWC is supposed to really help the plants get along until the roots touch down. Plus this round I started inoculating pretty early with bennies...

It's easy to forget about- really only needed if the plants are sick, but it's definitely worked for me.

buddzzzz

They can probably pull through- unless the root crown is totally rotten. Can maybe do a light foliar to keep em going until they get their root strength back

Ah, yea the swampiness could do it. If you want microbes eating/composting the dead plant matter you gotta make sure its all aerobic stuff, stagnant water will promote anaerobic microbes more and that can cause all sorts of hell.

looking awesome! Hmm, do you have any green algae growing anywhere? That stuff can suck up almost all the P and tons of N during a big bloom. Lack of P can produce some curling and stunting. I'm definitely in the 'low P' camp, but you definitely need some- and unfortunately there tends to be...

lol this poor webcam.... all my hopes and dreams of timelapse through budding- gone!

buds are moving right along

shit, well i guess its a better time than ever to invest in a COB setup

Hydroguard is awesome. Once I can afford a microscope and some culture media, gonna grow me some of that thar bacteria...

Yar. Yea further reading and a little more remembered-chemistry later it makes more sense. Basically any organic (carbon-based) substance is effected by any heavy oxidizer. In the case of humics+chlorine it turns into its own special little surprise. So amino acids, sugars, organic acids...