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Yeah... Nah...

100mm kingspan is what I built my flower room out of. It keeps the heat out in the summer and the cold out in the winter. It comes in handy building blocks too. You can just stack it up and glue it to make a room with very little effort. All you'd need is a frame inside for your lights.

I've run MH, HPS, LED and Flouro for veg.. Flouro's are no slower and no faster than MH, but they use a shit load less power, are less aggressive on young plants, and kick out zero heat. For me, that's a no brainer. For heat in the flower room, in the summer, I'm more than happy not to have to...

Oh.. I just thought.. the argument that you can't get round.. You don't have to turn an LED off, to take a decent photo. .. where is the mic drop emoji?

Dooo it! Dooo it!

I've not measured the output with a lightmeter so I don't actually have a baseline with which to compare yours. What I will say, is that lux isn't everything. You could have a super bright LED in the completely wrong wavelength and you're not going to get anything out of it. This is the problem...

backbuilding works. I thought you were talking about topping them right before flower, or on the switch. Yeah, trimming the top of your bud will stimulate it to, I suppose, repair itself, which gives it a fuller top.

I'm in! I'm so stoked with the progression of LED's. From when I first started growing and we could only dream of LED's being able to grow plants, to now. Who knows where we'll be in 10 years time.

Lets see some pics. I'm interested!

A note on pruning and training. I top all my clones once they're rooted and veg for about 2 weeks before they go to flower. 2 weeks into flower I will remove every single fan leaf on the plant, along with any bud leaves that are either shading other bud sites, or are growing inwards towards...

Eagle eyed viewers might have spotted my guardian says im running at 17'c. Well yes, were getting into the final couple of weeks of flower now so I've dropped the rootzone to 17'c and the humidity is down to about 35-40. Both these things serve to tell the plant summer is over and it's time to...

As you can see, size, density and frostiness are not a problem with the LED's!

So I ponied up the cash and started using LED's this year. So far I've had a couple of successful cycles but I decided to start documenting it from now... so, this journal will be back to font as were starting from flower here and when I clone for the next one I'll show that process as I go...

I had a friend with mites. Not the friend.. his room.. said he'd had them for as long as he could remember and just sort of lives with it.. horrid. I don't let him in my house.

Don't trim whole branches, just take off all the growth below the top 12". You nailed it yourself when you said they will detract from the main colas and be a pita to trim.

I don't think you can F.I.M a F.I.M ....

I subscribe to less is more when were talking about adding loads of snake oil to your res.. but I'm 100% with Renfro on PPM's of base nutrient... Provided your ratios aren't crazy so you end up locking out certain elements (this is what happens when you add all the extra crap the hydro shops...

Yes.. that's the point.. I think the point you are trying to make is that sickly mothers make sickly cuttings, which is true enough, but the fact is...his plants are deficient,in every stage of the grow. The problem with the cuttings isn't that they were taken from unhealthy mothers.. it's that...

I hadn't thought about using a flushing agent. That could be a good shout, though I don't know enough about them. Something to get the immobile, mobile again.. as that's surely the problem. I have to disagree with dropping ppm and continue as is though.. his plants look in poor health at every...

You don't need to drain it. I guess you're using RO and it's a lot of water to keep replacing.. but you absolutely need to keep pH balancing the water back to 6.0 so that the elements are mobile, It's good that your pH and ppm are rising on the flush.. it means it's working.