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For starters.. beam angle.. a 90° diode doesn't mix as easily as a 120° or 140°, especially if working with 5 or more wavelengths. It just creates colour spotbeams. And as for lumens.. if one 630nm red has 30lm more than another 630nm red.. which do you think is stronger and more efficient? My...

I was going by my calculator in ubuntu... I now see that the "sr" stands for "steradian".. the space within the beam angle. So.. whatever the base intensity, multiplied by the steradian. Wouldn't it just be easier to list in lumens like everybody else?? The only other time I see mcd...

And if places like Digi-Key, Mouser, Future Electronics, Active Electronics, or even Jameco don't carry the manufacturer.. then that should tell you something right there. No Epistar, and no Semiled.. but Digi-Key and Mouser "both" carry Bridgelux. Future carries heatsinks for Bridgelux, but not...

But a Red 624nm Epistar, which maxes out at 500mA.. only has 11000 mcd.. 1000 mcd = 1 lm, therefore, that Red Epistar 623nm 500mA diode "only" gives a whopping 11 lumens. A Cree XP-E Red 620-630nm.. 39.8-56.8 lumens.. at 350mA. A Red-Orange 610-620nm has 56.8-73.9 lumen.. at 350mA. That's 5 to...

I'm not too sure on heights yet.. that'll have to come from experience. "Epistar LED with 3 watt diodes 2 volts a chip, 630ma." - That's only 1.26W, and that's the Blues. Their Reds max out at 500mA, and Blues max out at 700mA. Are you sure it's 2v? That's pretty low. Reds are "usually" 2.2...

By the way.. thanks for sharing your experience with lenses.. I think I'm going to skip 'em. I originally planned to go without, as that's how many of the Cree or Osram gardens are out there (ledgrow.eu, knna, etc...). The XPE/G's are 140° viewing angle.. that's got a pretty good spread as it...

I'm not too sure it's the wavelength causing the bleaching.. same thing happens with HPS in an air-cooled hood if too close. And HPS has even less blue than the LEDs. It's the intensity caused by the lenses.. they "magnify" the light output, so only makes sense it would concentrate the energy it...

Actually.. they're the same price.. that page was just diodes, this page is mounted on stars.. bottom of page http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Leds+on+20mm+Star+PCB&pg=3 And rapidled sells lenses for them... http://www.rapidled.com/xp-e-xt-e-lenses/ LedLink's XP-E lenses "might"...

If they're 500-550mW @ 350mA, then they're stronger than the XP-E's, and they're cheaper. Power wise.. the H bin is the same, but the other bins are lower in voltage. http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Cree+XTE I've never seen these before.......... :D

Forgot the Crees... The XP-E are actually stronger than the XR-E, and more colour available. All the XR-E and XP-E mounted on stars, are under the "Cree Leds premounted on Printed Circuit Boards" section... http://www.cutter.com.au/categories.php?cat=Cree+LEDS Here's the XP-x's on 20mm...

http://www.rapidled.com/osram-660nm-3w-red-led/

600mA @ 10v each, 55° viewing angle, and they list in micromole instead of lumen.. ?? You'd be better off getting the grow star packages he has.

PayPal? It took 5 days for PayPal to give me the money that the seller had already returned in 24 hours. Sits in PP's bank account earning daily interest.. with millions of other people's money. That's what it "could" be anyways......... :D

You should check out this thread.. basically sums up Crees vs ChinaCraps. You should check out the journal buddy has going with his basil 3/4 the way down the page.. looks pretty damn healthy, and the soil seems to be drying up quick enough.. at least it "looks" like they're drinking fast...

Old: New: Used to be between "Grow Ctcle Switch" and "Daisy Chain Feature".

lol! :D Counterfeit Epsitar's? That's pretty bad.. counterfeiting a cheap-assed diode to begin with, that still lists in mcd :p I figured they just used cheap Epistars, and pushed them to the absolute limits. :D

Yep.. LEDs are current driven.. whatever extra voltage just flows straight through to the next LED, but still needs that initial base voltage. I've actually seen schematics where they use a red LED to drop the voltage by 1.7v or whatever the red uses, to bring a signal from 5v to 3-3.3v. I...

OK, I stand corrected.. and will eat my words :p Seems you CAN mix voltages on the same string, as long as there's enough voltage for all of them.. and there's either an adequate resistor at the end of the string, or you use a constant current driver. BUT.. the LEDs will all run at whatever...

If you have a voltage meter, you can check really quick.. just measure a red and blue within the same string. See what they're running at.

E.shine may do it, bet every guide I've read on LEDs, and my own buddy who's guided me along the way.. who's an electrical wizard.. all say don't mix voltages. It may work with 1/4 watt 5mm LEDs, but not a good idea with high powered LEDs. The way I've learned it... a 3.4v LED "needs" 3.4V just...