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No, the rock dust does not replace dolomite lime for cal/mag or pH. Use both as both supply necessary things. Get the dolo lime at HD, it's ~$4.50 for a 40lb bag. 1cup/cf of mix, or 2tbl/gallon of mix. You can get by without the glacial rock dust, but the lime is a *must have*. No experience...

Well ......... DUH ^^^^ :o :weed: Isn't it nice when you have one of those *light bulb* moments? :hump::mrgreen: Wet BTW, that humping is that 'fuck yah' when everything clicks into place.

If it's not hydrated, use 2 TBL/gallon of mix. 10tbl for your 5 gallon buckets. A 'pinch' is no where near enough. It's just ground up rock. It should start working in a couple of weeks. The mag in dolo takes longer to break down, so a tsp of epsom salts in a gallon of water will take care of...

@panooq Why are you replying to a over 4YO thread? :wall: My poor excuse is that I didn't notice till after I answered. :dunce: Wet

THAT ^^^^^^ It does get hot, literally. Crush it, or soak in water, the cubes will fall right apart. Add it to the mix and moisten the whole deal. A 2 week cook might work, but a month would be better. Sticking your hand in there will let you know when it cools down. Good stuff, one of my...

Is there no directions on the bag? Might be good to check it out. I use the Espoma 'tones' and apply once/month and only water in between. You're right, the stuff breaks down slow and by feeding that often you are dumping more on what hasn't broken down yet. Basically building up to toxic...

First off, 7.2 isn't a big deal. Second, dolo has a pH of 7.0 and isn't going to go above that, look elsewhere. I've grown stuff in pure crushed limestone before. Didn't work well due to poor drainage, but nothing got burnt or locked out. Third, Rapidtest isn't all that for accurate readings...

That or kelp meal, easy peasy. The nanner peels go in the worm bin, let them​ do the work. Wet

Good stuff. Wet

With too much, too often, do you think you'll have good results with ANYTHING?:wall: I've been doing host plants and cuttings for ~23 years now with all sorts of 'stuff' and techniques. What I've found best for long term host plants (9 months+ in the same can), is Jack's Classic Bloom Booster...

If you buffered with lime, no need to check anything. Wet

BIG +1 on the linked thread. Wet

You're both right and in more agreement than you realize. A noobs idea of moist and a experienced growers idea of moist are miles apart. What a noob would call moist, we would probably call soggy. That's why all the problems with the gnats. Wet

That's exactly why I make do with what's available locally. *Whatever* might be good, but seldom so good as to justify paying 2-3x as much with shipping. The only thing I paid to have shipped this year has been kelp meal. For some reason the local feed didn't stock it. But not bad, it was...

IDK, you'll see after you mix it. A quickie run down of my mix. I use a wheelbarrow and mix 2cf (15 gallons+), at a pop. Basic measurements are in 5 gallon buckets. 1 1/2 buckets (7 1/2 gallons), spag peat moss 1 bucket Perlite. I never use vermiculite, the peat moss is more than enough water...

@Cann Again, I agree and was being lazy. I use both Dolo and Calcitic, depending and should have explained my reasoning better. Dolomite, local, ~$4+/40lb bag Calcitic, local, ~$15/40lb bag oyster shell flour, wherelocal, ~$15+-/40lb bag, but shipping to my AO brings that up to $45+ for that...

LOL, yeah, that mortar and thistle might take a bit of thyme. Unless you get the oyster shells to the consistency of flour, like the dolomite, you are pretty much pissing in the wind, or will be waiting 3+ years for it to break down. At less than $5 for a 40lb bag of Dolomite, it's really not...

Even better if you make your own mix. I also got tired of the bedding. What I use for the most part now, is the beginnings of my soil mix. Peat Moss/Perlite/Lime ..... That's the basic. Not quite as much perlite as I use in my mix, but you do need some. Lime at the same ratio as the mix. This...

www.fungi.com www.bioag.com Both are excellent sources/products. Wet

Just make sure the horses haven't been *wormed*. The worm medication in the poo can do serious damage to your worm bin.A guy I know with both a horse that gets regular worming and worm bin told me that ~6 months of being composted and exposed to the elements seemed to get rid of all the...