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Hey Rocket Soul, this is off topic but I'm new around these parts, I've been spending a ton of time reading old threads, and you've been a huge contributor to this forum for what looks like a long time. I really appreciate all the knowledge you willingly share with the rest of us. I just wanted...

From everything I've read, rooting hormone doesn't work like that, it won't be effective because the concentration of it making contact with the plant will not be high enough.

I wonder what color those green diodes are. We can't get this light in Canada but it looks pretty cool.

What model lights are they? Are these the Solarsystem 550?

What year SF4000? You can tell by the diode layout, 1st gen has the evenly spaced diodes, second gen has a more optimized layout and the Evo will say Evo on the board. If it's the 2nd gen one, I'd do it, it has a decent amount of lm301b diodes in an optimized arrangement. The ppfd map looks...

The MarsHydro greenhouse light is meant to used in a greenhouse and not as a stand-alone light in a tent. It's supplemental lighting for the sun, you just need the most efficient spectrum to blast on cloudy days to supplement a light that already has everything else in abundance.

That's a good question that I would also like to know the answer to. Hopefully Dr. Bugbee can look more into this. Thanks for the article suggestion, always looking to learn and improve.

I've been watching the second-hand market and no one is buying these old lights unless they're $10 a piece. I've seen ads up for a year now, older cob lights people want $30-$40 for.

Get the P2000, it uses lm281b diodes but the diode count is so much higher than the sf2000 Evo. I can't find the diode count on the sf2000 (probably because it runs insanely hot) but the sf1000 Evo runs 0.6w per diode, which is more than twice as hot as what's usually reccomended.

Green has been misunderstood for a long time, we now know green is even more efficient than blue for photosynthesis. Blue doesn't penetrative like green, green does deep into the leaves. We can grow and get excellent results without green, but we still want better efficiency if possible.

How's she coming along?

That explains your ignorance, youre too busy being right as opposed to learning. Im done here buddy.

No it seems like youre talking out of your ass, got called out on it, and now trying to make it seem like the other guy is crazy. DWC and Kratky are similar but fundamentally different, like RSO and QWISO. Its okay if youre not knowledgable on the subject, just dont spread mis-information.

Id pinch off useless budsites as i see them. By week 6 flowering if the buds look like they wont be turning into anything significant ill pull off all the tiny bud sites as well and toss the immature buds in my trim pile.

Its only a week to 10 daya early max before harvest season wraps up anyways. Not a huge loss.

That weed looks terrible, looks like my dog ate a bud and shat it back out. Sorry to see you got stuck with it.

This is the best way by far. The main benefits of decarbing if youre going to cook with it anyways is that you will get rid of alot of chlorophyll/green taste. Decarbed bud is brown because theres none or very little left, leaving for a superior end product wether baking or cooking with it...

Youll know when its too cold for your plant, shell show you with her damaged leaves that dont rebound in the day. Better to harvest the day affer a frost than weeks early.

Thats nowhere close to done. Your nairs arent even white, theyre still green.

This is 100 percent garbage. Nice try though.