make sure you use the proper connectors and secure a box somehow to the wall or something. if you are running 240 then dp switch. 120 is only a sp switch, you are just switching the hot and not the common. you can splice the common in the switch box but dont break it with the switch. the hot...
Ya, just use the right plugs. they will say 240volt on them. You can go from one to another and another and another if you want. its up to you not to overload it though.
Hey, it depends on the voltage your feeding it with and the size of your breaker. A 20a breaker is good for 1920 watts at 120volts. if your running 240volts then you have almost 4000 available for use.
hey man,at the top of the page type in ballast diagram capacitor . then go to the thread labeled 'wiring a HPS ballast?? help??' at the bottom of that first page someone has a nice picture on how to do it. you will be fine if you follow that. just about every device needs a common just about...
yeah, most are done that way unless the house owner asks for a 400a service. if you take a normal electric heater that is standard around here, it is rated at 20,000 watts. thats almost half of your 200amp service alone.
the code recommends a 20 amp circuit have no more than 1920 watts at 120 volts of continuous power. the breaker is designed to trip at 2400watts. grow lights are considered continuous, so your actually over the edge on what is recommended. your pushing somewhere around 2100 watts continuous...
wires on the small side, hmmm. one of the wires should say lamp on it, that goes to the black coming from the lamp. if a common doesnt say lamp just take the common from your lamp and the two other commons and wire to your common coming in. i have done alot of these but its kinda hard to...
i have a solution that you may have overlooked. The coil voltage of your relay must match the voltage coming in. test the voltage across the numbers 2 and 7 (if its an ice cube relay) that needs to match the coil voltage stamped right on top of the relay. not the contact rating, the coil rating...
well, i imagine its one of those ballasts that has a ton of wires to choose from. find the lead that says common, thats your white wire(neutral) the one labeled 120 is your hot. hope that helps. dont mess with the other wires, they should be pre wired for you. alot of those types of ballasts...
thats fine if what you say is true. it sounds like the existing circuit has plenty of power available. you can load a 15a circuit to 1440 watts and a 20amp to 1920 safely
wow, most plugs have someting inside the actual plug to screw the wire down with. I wouldnt just wrap a wire around a prong, you can cause arc and burn your house down with the breaker never tripping. Instead, go buy about ten pull chain fixtures (you see them in garages alot) and wire them...
your panel has 200 amps of power available or 48000 watts at 240 volts or 24000 per phase (hot wire). If you add up everything in your house then its probably over 48000 but everything is never on at the same time so those switches never trip. If you try and pull power before the meter then the...
I by all means dont have it figured out yet but I do know that I wouldnt give "big Mike" a red cent. too expensive, even if it did do what he claims. I settled on foxfarm with cha ching and all that shit. when that runs out, ill try something else