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Brief update, I stand corrected. There IS a hydro shop around here that sells biochar, but it's $10/kg!! Alternative #1 is Royal Oak, a hammer, and some elbow grease, but the Royal Oak is $15 for an 8kg bag so not really saving money because I don't need more than 1kg. Alternative #2 is this...

Wow, the alfalfa is that hot! Rrog, what about both (if possible), if for no other reason than to add some diversity to the N sources?

I'm in the same boat bro. Agree with what Rrog said, but if you're like me and can't get your hands on a decent organic soil to start off with, you could just build it from scratch with peat and/or coir, lime, and a much lighter cocktail of what's been discussed in this thread already.

Nope, it's sort of like a hempy bucket, but instead of top-watering, there's a tube/pipe inserted vertically before adding the medium, so you pour the water into the tube (using a funnel or something) and the water goes right to the bottom and wicks up as needed - completely passive. Supposed to...

Uh oh... that's news to me. This is what I bought, got it on sale. Anyone see any concerns?

Got a .pdf? Umm... what?

Get the lime in there soon, that's one that needs to cook for a nice long time. If possible, innoculate the charcoal before adding it. I don't think this one needs a long cooking time though, so no rush. Someone correct me if I'm wrong :) That doesn't sound like enough EWC. What about some...

Alrighty I think I've found a Canadian source for Neptune's Harvest products, will try and get crab meal and kelp meal from them. From local hydro shop, will be picking up perlite, greensand, glacial rock dust, and bat guano (10kg on clearance for $80). From big box retailer, 7-7-0 bone+blood...

So my innoculant will be home-brewed LactoB, ACT (I'm gonna make this with a magnetic stirrer, but I don't have any compost), and BTI dunks.

Ok so my plans were to sub-irrigate the container. Which means it's watered from the bottom not the top, and the water wicks up through capillary action. Thing this'll still work?

Cool pics NN. And if I understand correctly, biochar works primarily by it's incredibly high surface area which serves to house beneficial microbes, correct?

Nice, boy am I glad I'm re-reading this thread. I know where to get wiggle-worm locally :)

So what's the alternative in a soil-less mix - peat? Wouldn't that also compost and compact?

How do you amend the soil without tilling? Don't you gotta work in the amendments, and let it cook again?

Whoops, got those backwards. Corrected above. Thanks.

I always overthink - one of the reasons I medicate with weed. Smokes my brain down a notch.

Alright, first revision: 3 parts coco coir 3 parts EWC 2 parts perlite 1 part charcoal For nutes: 1. I'm gonna go 1:1 blood:bone, and 1 guano (Sub's way) instead of 1:2 blood:bone. 2. Dolomite lime (cal+mag). I notice Sub adds epsom salts for extra Mg. Any thoughts on this? 3. Humic acids...

Yeah buddy that worked, cheers man.

I think I figured this out. The guano in Sub's mix adds P, the 2:1 ratio of bone to blood in LC's adds P. It all adds up.

Thanks NN. How would mixing the charcoal 50/50 with compost, or letting it sit in compost tea during brewing, activate the charcoal? Isn't charcoal activated by treating it with a strong acid? Another diff between Sub's and LC's, LC's has kelp meal or kelp extract. This stuff is pricey - is it...