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It does. Compare the Black Dog to for example this nearly identical Chinese model that sells for less than 1/3 of the price.

The silicon glue will be just fine. It helps to use glue clamps to push out the excess of glue. Pushing really hard with just the fingers does not come close. After that it will be mostly the vacuum force that keeps it together. Since there is so little glue in between in doesn't matter much...

Looks like a solid plan Smokey. For your situation with a low height and with the light also having veg duty, consider the 3500K or even 4000K for some extra blue. 3000K has 8% blue, 3500K has 10% blue, 4000K has 12% blue [%power between 430-480nm].

^^^^ replace 73.9 with 103. Cannot edit the post anymore ("the message you entered is too short...")

Hi Supra, glad you like it :smile: Things have come full circle now. When starting to look into the efficiency of white LEDs I of course googled it and came across some of your posts from years back. That is actually how I learned about LER! Those estimates for the LER seem too low, which...

3x2700K or 3x3000K would all be fine. More critical would be the mixing of the light, as Pico has found out. To get better mixing the smaller COBs come in handy. Plus the smaller COBs can use high voltage low current drivers which are generally a bit more efficient than high current drivers.

About the 2 cool : 1 warm ratio, I really believe this is not optimal. Apachetech uses a 2 cool : '1 extremely efficient red' ratio. This makes a great difference. Or to put it in spectrum pictures, this is 2 cool white vero's with one warm white (had to use 3000K for the warm white as the 2700K...

Can you describe the differences between the 'cool white' plants and the 'warm white' plants, and the plants in the middle who are getting the mixture?

I don't know how much cost is an issue but if you want to save a bit more and if you are willing to repot the plants you could do away with the upper veg space altogether: Just start out with smaller pots and put everything in the lower veg room. You can also take clones of the clones that are...

Lovely cabinet porn, but you have a total overkill of veg power! Five of the Hans mother panels is 280W of ultra efficient LED power. I believe you could do well with just two panels in the veg room and put clones, seedlings and mothers there as well. You could add a regular Hans panel to the...

The all-white 2014 spectrum will be the silmilar to the 2013 veg spectrum as both use neutral ("Outdoor") whites: For flowering this would be lacking in the red. The 2013 red/white spectrum looks nicer for flowering and it has the very efficient XP-E red diodes. The downside is that it has...

With a CC there is no excess voltage :) It is the job of the CC to provide the exact voltage which is the sum of all the individual forward voltages (at a given current). You are thinking constant voltage supply, which is sort of the logical inverse of a constant current supply.

Smokey, for you space you would need about 50W of Vero power to get the the minimum target of light. Your projection is twice that which is great. It is not advisable to run the Vero's in parallel, Bridgelux explicitly warns against doing that in the spec sheet. What you can do is put one...

Tags I know you mean well but that wizard is very old (like in tripping over his own beard). It will advise to put a resistor in the LED string. This is not very efficient and leads to all the sort of mist and confusion that you can see going on in this thread. Nowadays most (sane) ppl use a...

Lax I read that one of your diodes in a series string blew up. This can happen if you first plug in the CC driver and then connect the string. The initial voltage of the CC driver can be too high which will cause a current spike when you connect the string. The correct way is to power the CC...

Looking forward to your build with the vero's. A heads-up about the Meanwell LDD, seeing these are step down converters they will not go from 12V to the 31V you need. The output voltage is always at least 3V lower than the input voltage.

My suggestion: A smaller Vero 10 needs 350 mA and can use a cheap driver for 1W LEDs. For example with this one you string together four Vero 10's. This would be a lot more efficient then going from 110 to 12 to 27V. For heatsinking you could then use simple alumium profile from the hardware...

What vero size are you thinking about?

Right you are, it has been corrected. I mixed up '7V' with '7S' somewhere.

OK found it, thanks. The analysis on this specimen shows it is not really special in any way: Oslon 2700K Power in : 1.12 W Luminous flux : 82 lumen Efficacy : 73 lumen/W LER : 285 lumen/W Radiometric efficiency: 25.7% PAR efficiency...