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Silicate = SiO4- Silica = SiO2 Silicon = Si It is possible that many people are confusing Silica (SiO2) with Silicate (SiO4-). The ionic compound Silicate (SiO4-) is how you can get silicon in solution. Often found bonded to potassium as potassium silicate. You should think of them as one in...

Only a lab test will tell you exactly what you want to know. Luckily, they aren't that expensive. Usually $35-40. I can recommend a few labs, if you'd like.

If you run really high TDS, it can be a problem for your nozzles. By really high, I mean >1000, usually. Often times, this is something that must be considered on a case by case basis when running high TDS, as a larger nozzle and sometimes a different nozzle material can solve a problem. But...

It's not an issue with "solubles" as you said. It's obviously a result of Oregonism XL, but just because it's clogging a really fine screen doesn't mean it's harmful to the solution or the plants.

Haha, yeah, I type 3.784 for the conversion just as often as I type 3.785. :D This is because if you go one significant figure farther, it's 3.7854. :)

3.785 L/gal :) Hardly a difference, I know. :D It changes it to a whopping 1.93g/gal.

uhm... mg/gal? I deal in metric. :) mg/L Using Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate, to reach 50mg/L, which is 50ppm, you need to add 0.51g/L.

Haha! This is like East and West with me. Up/Down. When I visualize pH and acids, lower pH, I visualize it at the top and high pH at the bottom. Like a scoreboard. So, I'm not surprised I mixed those up.

So, in regards to sulfates in hydroponics, your plants can handle pretty high sulfates without it being an issue. And if you are using magnesium sulfate, it will not really ever be an issue if you keep your magnesium around 100ppm or so. However, potassium sulfate is not useless. If you use...

pH Down can be any of the following: Nitric Acid Phosphoric Acid Sulfuric Acid Citric Acid These will ALL be in liquid form. Phosphoric acid will usually be the cheapest. Chances are what you buy from any nutrient company is maybe 30% phosphoric acid and maybe 5-10% citric acid. You can find...

Carry on. :D

So, the coatings should be mostly water soluble, so I would recommend creating a stock solution like you normally would, just heat it, agitate it, and mash it. That should do to break it up well enough and dissolve everything.

First thing I want to say is that growing plants is easy. Stick your seed in soil and water it from the tap and it will grow. The exception being if you have really shitty water, but most municipal supplies are fine. Your ideas of using a drip system are good. It's pretty common. As a previous...

I have no idea what the composition of the coating is, so unfortunately I can't help you get it removed.

You don't want to add more than about 0.75ml/L of a 12% solution. And you'll want to start it at a lower concentration initially. So, I would add about 2mL to your 10L of water to start. If you do water changes, that's when you increase the amount you add. That is, change all 10L, add 3-5mL...

They are all exactly the same.

It's likely a delayed release fertilizer and is not meant to be used in fertigation. Just put it a little bit on top of the dirt in each pot.

Based on the percentage of amino acids and total N, it's an ammoniacal nitrogen form.

You should never feed ONLY distilled water. You should always feed water that actually has dissolved fertilizers/nutrients in it.

I can assure you that people using well water in an agricultural application have run into big problems, not unlike yours.