LED vs H.I.D

secretmicrogrow420 · Apr 10, 2025

Before I Begin I do not consider myself a expert, I am just a man with a Hobbie, a lot of people are always asking what is better H.I.D or LED ? so lets put this topic 2 rest!

If anything I say in this article is not correct please correct me dont light me up! Less gooooo

#GrowingStr8GasGang!

Okay, so let’s break this down:

High-end LED lights can achieve up to 220 lumens per watt, though not all models reach this level. Some advanced LEDs even exceed 3.5 µmol/J in efficiency, meaning they are more efficient at producing photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) for plant growth.

A high-end Double-Ended High-Pressure Sodium (HPS) light can produce up to 160 lumens per watt, with an efficiency of around 1.9 µmol/J. In comparison, Double-Ended Metal Halide (MH) typically maxes out at around 120 lumens per watt, with a similar efficiency of 1.9 µmol/J.

Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH) is generally more efficient than standard Metal Halide and can exceed 2.1 µmol/J in some cases. However, it maxes out at around 130 lumens per watt, depending on the wattage and model. So, while the lumen efficiency is typically lower than high-end HPS lights, it is still higher than that of standard MH bulbs.

Many growers report that High-Intensity Discharge (HID) lights penetrate deeper into the canopy than LEDs. This is likely due to the single-point intensity of HID bulbs, which focus light more intensely on a small area. In contrast, most LEDs distribute light more evenly across the canopy, which can reduce canopy penetration but provides more uniform coverage.

So, on paper, LEDs is KING of the hill ladies and gentleman —LED lights produce more visible light and emit more photons per second than traditional HID lights. However, the penetration depth of HID lights can still offer advantages in certain grow setups, particularly when lighting large areas or deep canopies.

#Str8GasGang

Phytoplankton · Apr 11, 2025

OneHitDone · Apr 11, 2025

secretmicrogrow420 said:
Before I Begin I do not consider myself a expert, I am just a man with a Hobbie, a lot of people are always asking what is better H.I.D or LED ? so lets put this topic 2 rest!

If anything I say in this article is not correct please correct me dont light me up! Less gooooo

#GrowingStr8GasGang!

Okay, so let’s break this down:

High-end LED lights can achieve up to 220 lumens per watt, though not all models reach this level. Some advanced LEDs even exceed 3.5 µmol/J in efficiency, meaning they are more efficient at producing photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) for plant growth.

A high-end Double-Ended High-Pressure Sodium (HPS) light can produce up to 160 lumens per watt, with an efficiency of around 1.9 µmol/J. In comparison, Double-Ended Metal Halide (MH) typically maxes out at around 120 lumens per watt, with a similar efficiency of 1.9 µmol/J.

Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH) is generally more efficient than standard Metal Halide and can exceed 2.1 µmol/J in some cases. However, it maxes out at around 130 lumens per watt, depending on the wattage and model. So, while the lumen efficiency is typically lower than high-end HPS lights, it is still higher than that of standard MH bulbs.

Many growers report that High-Intensity Discharge (HID) lights penetrate deeper into the canopy than LEDs. This is likely due to the single-point intensity of HID bulbs, which focus light more intensely on a small area. In contrast, most LEDs distribute light more evenly across the canopy, which can reduce canopy penetration but provides more uniform coverage.

So, on paper, LEDs is KING of the hill ladies and gentleman —LED lights produce more visible light and emit more photons per second than traditional HID lights. However, the penetration depth of HID lights can still offer advantages in certain grow setups, particularly when lighting large areas or deep canopies.

#Str8GasGang

The last sentence alone I would say is incorrect.
The only area still somewhat debatable is Spectrum. But at this point the trade off's are making that topic a wash :peace:

secretmicrogrow420 · Apr 12, 2025

OneHitDone said:
The last sentence alone I would say is incorrect.
The only area still somewhat debatable is Spectrum. But at this point the trade off's are making that topic a wash

the last sentence being "#GrowingStr8GasGang?" #Fudge lol
also boss I am no expert But I do produce a solid product indoors #Facts, so what do you mean by the only area still somewhat debatable is spectrum? we all know that blue light + UV light ='s plants dont strech as much during veg.... etc.....
But I made this article because I saw a post about LED VS HPS so I figured we should just put this topic 2 rest.

OneHitDone · Apr 12, 2025

secretmicrogrow420 said:
the last sentence being "#GrowingStr8GasGang?" #Fudge lol
also boss I am no expert But I do produce a solid product indoors #Facts, so what do you mean by the only area still somewhat debatable is spectrum? we all know that blue light + UV light ='s plants dont strech as much during veg.... etc.....
But I made this article because I saw a post about LED VS HPS so I figured we should just put this topic 2 rest.

"However, the penetration depth of HID lights can still offer advantages in certain grow setups, particularly when lighting large areas or deep canopies."
Led had been superior for penetration and even ppfd distribution for some time.
HPS is all about the infra-red end of the spectrum. Not UV/Blue. :peace:

secretmicrogrow420 · Apr 12, 2025

OneHitDone said:
"However, the penetration depth of HID lights can still offer advantages in certain grow setups, particularly when lighting large areas or deep canopies."
Led had been superior for penetration and even ppfd distribution for some time.
HPS is all about the infra-red end of the spectrum. Not UV/Blue.

well fuq me I assumed due to the single point light intensity that H.I.D bulbs produced light that penetrated deeper into the canopy vs LED. Testing Incoming!
I will update my article soon, thnx mate I appreciate your input!
Fuq know I gotta buy a high end D.E H.I.D setup T.T

jimihendrix1 · Monday at 12:51 AM

Halide-Specifically 5000k-6500k, have a MUCH WIDER SPECTRUM, than any LED ever made for commercial use.

A Hortilux Blue, has a 6500k rating, and a Spectrum of 280nm-2400nm+. Aint no LED that can come anywhere near that spectrum.
The new MMS 1000w Halide, is 6500k, and 15%-20% more powerful than the 1000w Hortilux Blue. Plus, the Halide, has More Red, than the Hortilux 1000w HPS,,, though, it is also Blue Heavy.

The Ushio 1000w Dual End Halide, is 5500k, and 1800umol. In a 4 x 4, nothing, is going to outperform this bulb, as it is a bright, or brighter than it needs to be, for the area. At its brightest, the SUN, is 2100umol, and it isnt that bright, the whole time, it is out. So, one can easily have as many, or more photons hitting the plants, than in nature.

LED efficiency, is being rethought, as they do not produce very much, in the Invisible Light Spectrum, which is extremely important, as they are now making EPar meters, to measure invisible light, though, they are still not as sophisticated, as they could be.

But as far as a complete spectrum, no LED, is anywhere near as close to the SUN, as a 5000k-6500k HALIDE. Be it single, or DE.

OneHitDone · Monday at 9:44 AM

jimihendrix1 said:
Halide-Specifically 5000k-6500k, have a MUCH WIDER SPECTRUM, than any LED ever made for commercial use.

A Hortilux Blue, has a 6500k rating, and a Spectrum of 280nm-2400nm+. Aint no LED that can come anywhere near that spectrum.
The new MMS 1000w Halide, is 6500k, and 15%-20% more powerful than the 1000w Hortilux Blue. Plus, the Halide, has More Red, than the Hortilux 1000w HPS,,, though, it is also Blue Heavy.

The Ushio 1000w Dual End Halide, is 5500k, and 1800umol. In a 4 x 4, nothing, is going to outperform this bulb, as it is a bright, or brighter than it needs to be, for the area. At its brightest, the SUN, is 2100umol, and it isnt that bright, the whole time, it is out. So, one can easily have as many, or more photons hitting the plants, than in nature.

LED efficiency, is being rethought, as they do not produce very much, in the Invisible Light Spectrum, which is extremely important, as they are now making EPar meters, to measure invisible light, though, they are still not as sophisticated, as they could be.

But as far as a complete spectrum, no LED, is anywhere near as close to the SUN, as a 5000k-6500k HALIDE. Be it single, or DE.

I agree with you on paper.
But having ran Hortilux Blue vs Super HPS a long while back - the Blue grown flower was gorgeous and truly top shelf in exterior appearance, the hps flower was always way chunkier and for some reason preferred by everyone that smoke the finished product :confused:

These days the reality is how much weight in the bag for how much expenses (power, nutrients, inputs, etc)
There is just no getting around that one and Hortilux tapping out was kinda the final straw that slapped me into accepting that HID was not going to be a significant player moving forward :peace:

jimihendrix1 · Tuesday at 10:58 AM

OneHitDone said:
I agree with you on paper.
But having ran Hortilux Blue vs Super HPS a long while back - the Blue grown flower was gorgeous and truly top shelf in exterior appearance, the hps flower was always way chunkier and for some reason preferred by everyone that smoke the finished product

These days the reality is how much weight in the bag for how much expenses (power, nutrients, inputs, etc)
There is just no getting around that one and Hortilux tapping out was kinda the final straw that slapped me into accepting that HID was not going to be a significant player moving forward

Its true HPS will produce more weed.

BUT, some tests have shown, weed grown under Halide, had chemicals that were MISSING, when grown under LED-HPS, that were also present, using the sun.

medidedicated · Tuesday at 11:39 AM

jimihendrix1 said:
Its true HPS will produce more weed.

BUT, some tests have shown, weed grown under Halide, had chemicals that were MISSING, when grown under LED-HPS, that were also present, using the sun.

Someone told me they dont bother pressing for rosin with their plants grown in led but with sunshine. Inspired me to figure out how to get more rosin from indoor plants which I prefer growing in. Why though? What are leds missing? They didnt say.

jimihendrix1 · Tuesday at 11:00 PM

medidedicated said:
Someone told me they dont bother pressing for rosin with their plants grown in led but with sunshine. Inspired me to figure out how to get more rosin from indoor plants which I prefer growing in. Why though? What are leds missing? They didnt say.

Here is a very interesting study about the SUN vs Artificial Light Grown Marijuana.
They also do not specify if they used LED, or HID. My guess is they used LED, which is the current thing for many.

Also not claiming that Halide is the Equal of the Sun, but, a Halide, is 100% for sure, the closest Spectrum to the SUN, Currently Available.-Specifically 5000k-6500k- the closer to 6000k, the more it is like High Noon. 5000k is like a cloudy day.

But the Halide, while its spectrum peaks, are somewhat different than the sun, they are as close, as close can get, in current bulb technology, and have a spectrum of 280nm-2400nm+, which there is no way, any current LED, can produce this spectrum, and at the intensities generated, in the INVISIBLE SPECTRUM.
What gets me, is the almost complete lacking, of POWERFUL UVA/B, and Infrared, in LED tech. If I myself were to develop a bulb for growing, I would surely not leave out the Invisible Spectrum. They do have single LED Diodes, in a very few commercially available LED, that go to what 380nm? MAYBE 365nm-but, everything from 380nm-437nm, is missing, as is from 780nm+-2000nm+, they have ZERO, and the SUN, is LOADED.

I will never be convinced, Leaving Out the Invisible Spectrum, is for the better, and am convinced, the Invisible Spectrum, is what is mainly responsible for Complex Chemicals Combinations, and leaving them out, is totally irresponsible, and may have unknown consequences, in later generations, having these cha=emicals Suppressed, by artifical lights. Be they LED, or HID.
Logic tells me to use the widest spectrum possible, as it is what plants evolved under. They did not evolve under 365nm-780nm Spectrum, devoid of UVA/B, and Infrared, and the further one gets away from this spectrum, the less chemicals, the plants will produce.

Hortilux used to advertise that the Hortilux Blue, was used in Pharma Research, because IT DOES MAKE THE PLANTS HAVE A MORE COMPLETE CHEMICAL PROFILE. THAT QUOTE, IS STRAIGHT FROM HORTILUX. And, while they can say anything, in the DECADES they made that bulb, NOBODY EVER CAME OUT, AND CHALLENGED THEM FOR THIS STATEMENT. NOBODY.

Comparison of the Cannabinoid and Terpene Profiles in Commercial Cannabis from Natural and Artificial Cultivation - PMC

Interest in cultivating cannabis for medical and recreational purposes is increasing due to a dramatic shift in cannabis legislation worldwide. Therefore, a comprehensive understanding of the composition of secondary metabolites, cannabinoids, and ...

pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

cage · Wednesday at 5:24 AM

medidedicated said:
Someone told me they dont bother pressing for rosin with their plants grown in led but with sunshine. Inspired me to figure out how to get more rosin from indoor plants which I prefer growing in. Why though? What are leds missing? They didnt say.

From burple to 400-700nm and then the far-red for emerson effect.
UV's are somewhat common already and pretty well researched already.

UV modules

I'd say they are probably better used as additive light instead of having them always on on your grow.
On my to do list definatly.

The 780-1mm is just infrared spectrum and does nothing else than heat/thermal energy.
But the UV's definatly have an effects. "Stimulates secondary metabolites like flavonoids, anthocyanins, resins, essential oils (defense compounds)"

medidedicated · Wednesday at 8:10 AM

Ok so if I buy some uva/uvb bars maybe Il see a increase in flower rosin return and quality possibly? Im willing to try it. I run clones only and just one strain for over 1.5 yrs. If it does anything notable Il notice it right away.

Maybe some infer reds. The halide probably wont work in my setup due to watts and need bar lights so boxfan can just sit above them. My room is maxed out at 1410w continuous and already have a lead using 850w for ac and/or entertainment like tv and ps4 (450w).

Maybe during winter when I dont need to use ac but then I cant yield maximum wall to wall. Need box fan or will get mold and needs be above something hollow like bar light. I yielded much less with board lights and it was uncomfortable to grow.

medidedicated · Wednesday at 8:27 AM

What gets me is I had 20% return and just all the looks and quality but grown as mini clones under 13w of aci supplemental bar lighting. That was the main light over each clone, did two that yielded an oz each under 13w each 28w total.

I used to get good test results under the mars ts1000 but got mold so switched to bridgelux mars fce1500. Those did 15.7% and still doing the last clone beside it but looking like 14-15%. The viparapectra ks3000 did 17.5% twice in a row. These are whole plant yields not just small batches of weed being pressed.

Before all this when I had the ts1000 for a couple runs since claiming the mother and monocropping it.. I was machine trimming which took up to half the yield but was at 12% always overall with all clones mixed together as rosin in one big jar. Now I seperate plants to separate jars.

Some times Id get a half oz of dry sift rosin or just a couple grams or nothing at all from the bowl trimmer. The quality wasnt as good so its like I had that extra percentage removed so it came out similar every time. Wasnt really paying attention to each clone, its light and performance like now.

So if uba uvb will do anything significant Id notice it but then again as stated I might not. Plus my new dry conditions of 35rh 76F 4-5 day dry might be messing things up but its not mess anything up before infact I had my best rosin that way. I had to move it from a bathroom to dry in flower room so its not exposed to people using bathroom. Is what it is.

cage · Wednesday at 8:32 AM

medidedicated said:
Ok so if I buy some uva/uvb bars maybe Il see a increase in flower rosin return and quality possibly? Im willing to try it. I run clones only and just one strain for over 1.5 yrs. If it does anything notable Il notice it right away.

Maybe some infer reds. The halide probably wont work in my setup due to watts and need bar lights so boxfan can just sit above them. My room is maxed out at 1410w continuous and already have a lead using 850w for ac and/or entertainment like tv and ps4 (450w).

Maybe during winter when I dont need to use ac but then I cant yield maximum wall to wall. Need box fan or will get mold and needs be above something hollow like bar light. I yielded much less with board lights and it was uncomfortable to grow.

Yeah LED's all the way if you are power limited.

Took a look for more recent UV studies and it didn't look too good if going for more resin.
Well more effect on the terpene profile.

Frontiers | Elevated UV photon fluxes minimally affected cannabinoid concentration in a high-CBD cultivar

Ultraviolet photons (UV) can damage critical biochemical processes. Plants synthesize photo-protective pigments that absorb UV to minimize damage. Cannabinoi...

www.frontiersin.org

As for your general resin %, I'd think there is alot variables there, even though your runs are similar.
I mean leaf to flower ratios, all the enviromentals aside from light, mother plants age etc.

Plantis Deorum · Wednesday at 8:35 AM

You're only taking visible light into account in this comparison, but haven't considered photons outside of the visible spectrum. Nor have you considered the temperatures of the grow environment prior to any heating or cooling. In a low temp situation, I can guarantee that CMH will beat any LED fixture 8-days a week.

jimihendrix1 · Wednesday at 1:25 PM

Some strains, that didnt evolve around high UVA/B waves, may not benefit much from UVA/B supplementation, is what I understand. It is strain dependent.
Also it isnt really about increasing the NUMBER of Trichomes, it is about CHANGING THE CHEMICAL PROFILE.

It is also totally incorrect to state Infrared past 780nm has no benefit.

THIS IS NOT TRUE, as studies have been slim, to none, but, there is evidence that nm beyond 800nm, are beneficial.

One of the reasons nm beyond 800nm hasnt been studied, is for one, because the equipment, is limited to about 800nm, and beyond that, the equipment is not up to the task.

Of note however is the spectral limit for these datasets: 800 nm. Visible light spectroradiometers typically have a spectral range of 350 nm to 800 nm. Wider spectral ranges are possible, but at the cost of reduced spectral resolution. Thus, while near-infrared spectroradiometers are available, they typically have spectral ranges on the order of 650 nm to 1100 nm. The decision therefore to define 800 nm as the limit of PBAR may have been dependent in part on the limitations of laboratory equipment.

If one wants to supplement UVA/B, with LED, the best bulbs on the market are the SOLACURE Flower Power.

It is T12 vs T5-T8, and has a huge surface area vs the others. Solacure, is the only one that goest to 280nm, and also stated, the only one that emits 280nm. It is most powerful at 280-nm-305nm.
It also has a built in Reflector, as it is a futile waste of time, effort, and money, to try and reflect UVA/B, by normal means. UVA/B, CANNOT be reflected by any type of reflector.
Solacure has a built in reflector, that is made specifically to reflect UVA/B, and not absorb it.
It is also 20x+ times morte powerful than the most powerful Reptile bulbs, which I believe is still the Arcadia Desert Dragon, or the like, and is 54w. Solacure is 32w, and is almost 20x more powerful, in the rangee needed for plants. Reptile bulbs, are made for Reptiles, not plants.
Solacure can also be run up to 60w-70w, but will decrease life. It is overbuilt, to make it more durable, and reliable.

Solacure also doesnt just make plant bulbs. They make Tanning Bulbs for Pigs, that are being judged for competition.
They make bulbs, that age wood. all kinds of guitar players are wanting instruments, that look old, so, they have come up with UVA/B application, to the wood, to age it. So, dont think Solacure, is just a plant bulb company. They make UVA/Bulbs, that are 100+ Watts, if you want something that will fry ones eyes, out of the sockets.

But, the Flower Power bulb, is more powerful in the 280nm-305nm range than even the 100w+ UVA/B bulbs. It is most powerful in this spectrum to activate the UVR88 Gene. Though, higher nm WILL trigger it, you have to use longer duration to achieve this, and the response, is much stronger using 280nm-305nm. The Solacure does go to 380nm.
Id not mess with those expensive LED light bars.

The Effect of Near-Infrared Radiation on Plants | AgriTechTomorrow

Look at any textbook on botany and you will find this maxim: plants respond to optical radiation in the spectral range of 280 nm to 800 nm.The question is, how was this spectral range (sometimes referred to as Photobiologically Active Radiation, or PBAR) determined?

www.agritechtomorrow.com

Rocket Soul · Thursday at 1:09 PM

medidedicated said:
Someone told me they dont bother pressing for rosin with their plants grown in led but with sunshine. Inspired me to figure out how to get more rosin from indoor plants which I prefer growing in. Why though? What are leds missing? They didnt say.

The standard "full" spectrum growleds of the likes of SF, mars, pretty much every led of the market only covers 450-660nm well. Youll see some that have some near UV incorporated or far reds but it tends to be only the smallest smidgen. Par range is 400-700nm so that means the cover about 2/3rds of the par range.
Samsung EVOs expand this range from 450 to 437nm so a little bit more (but still quite important; if offers coverage of both chloro a and b on the blue side). The bio reactive range is even bigger.
Ive played around with adding leda from 295 to 680 and a little 730 with varied results. The blue and uv range definitely has an effect on the nose and flavors expressed. On potency i wouldnt really be able to tell, as for personal experience i disnt fins it incredibly more stony, but definitely better quality and more enjoyable. I never felt the Chocolate flavors from our Rainbow chips until i had it with uva and some chocolate almonds.

jimihendrix1 said:
Some strains, that didnt evolve around high UVA/B waves, may not benefit much from UVA/B supplementation, is what I understand. It is strain dependent.
Also it isnt really about increasing the NUMBER of Trichomes, it is about CHANGING THE CHEMICAL PROFILE.

It is also totally incorrect to state Infrared past 780nm has no benefit.

THIS IS NOT TRUE, as studies have been slim, to none, but, there is evidence that nm beyond 800nm, are beneficial.

One of the reasons nm beyond 800nm hasnt been studied, is for one, because the equipment, is limited to about 800nm, and beyond that, the equipment is not up to the task.

Of note however is the spectral limit for these datasets: 800 nm. Visible light spectroradiometers typically have a spectral range of 350 nm to 800 nm. Wider spectral ranges are possible, but at the cost of reduced spectral resolution. Thus, while near-infrared spectroradiometers are available, they typically have spectral ranges on the order of 650 nm to 1100 nm. The decision therefore to define 800 nm as the limit of PBAR may have been dependent in part on the limitations of laboratory equipment.

If one wants to supplement UVA/B, with LED, the best bulbs on the market are the SOLACURE Flower Power.

It is T12 vs T5-T8, and has a huge surface area vs the others. Solacure, is the only one that goest to 280nm, and also stated, the only one that emits 280nm. It is most powerful at 280-nm-305nm.
It also has a built in Reflector, as it is a futile waste of time, effort, and money, to try and reflect UVA/B, by normal means. UVA/B, CANNOT be reflected by any type of reflector.
Solacure has a built in reflector, that is made specifically to reflect UVA/B, and not absorb it.
It is also 20x+ times morte powerful than the most powerful Reptile bulbs, which I believe is still the Arcadia Desert Dragon, or the like, and is 54w. Solacure is 32w, and is almost 20x more powerful, in the rangee needed for plants. Reptile bulbs, are made for Reptiles, not plants.
Solacure can also be run up to 60w-70w, but will decrease life. It is overbuilt, to make it more durable, and reliable.

Solacure also doesnt just make plant bulbs. They make Tanning Bulbs for Pigs, that are being judged for competition.
They make bulbs, that age wood. all kinds of guitar players are wanting instruments, that look old, so, they have come up with UVA/B application, to the wood, to age it. So, dont think Solacure, is just a plant bulb company. They make UVA/Bulbs, that are 100+ Watts, if you want something that will fry ones eyes, out of the sockets.

But, the Flower Power bulb, is more powerful in the 280nm-305nm range than even the 100w+ UVA/B bulbs. It is most powerful in this spectrum to activate the UVR88 Gene. Though, higher nm WILL trigger it, you have to use longer duration to achieve this, and the response, is much stronger using 280nm-305nm. The Solacure does go to 380nm.
Id not mess with those expensive LED light bars.

The Effect of Near-Infrared Radiation on Plants | AgriTechTomorrow

Look at any textbook on botany and you will find this maxim: plants respond to optical radiation in the spectral range of 280 nm to 800 nm.The question is, how was this spectral range (sometimes referred to as Photobiologically Active Radiation, or PBAR) determined?

www.agritechtomorrow.com

Its definitely true that different strains will react better or worse with uv. Weve had stuff that loves the uv and some strains not so much.
I havent tried the solarcure bulbs myself but had some mixed reviews. They tested lower for cannabinoids than just near uva 405nm in some tests i saw, also some other posters had a fair few problems and yield loss using them. Its true that they hit the uvr8 nicely but it seems to me that you want to use both uva and uvb when you grow; the uva seems to have a hardening effect on the plants, making it more ready to take the full depth of uvb. This reflects somewhat the experiences ive had adding uv thru leds: emulating the sloped character of the uv spectrum in nature 400>365>uvb, ideally targeting 285nm which is peak uvr8 activation. Incidentally the solarcure uvbs

coverage of these deep uvb is somewhat lacking.
Uvr8 absortion:

One of my friends swears by his uvb leds at 285 and its output is minimal, but effect on genetic triggering seems to be almost tenfold to 300nm.

I think nor led bars nor tubes is a perfect solution but from what ive seen myself and from friends i trust with no horse in the race: uv supplementation with leds is more than feasible, its just that there arent really any complete package products on the market which does it right. Though you can of course build this yourself with ledstar diodes if youre handy with a soldering iron or get someone to make you something custom
The solarcure of course works, theres no doubt about it, but im not certain they are a full reliable solution; especially in situations where you have your growlight down close towards the cannopy. Also the wattage they require seems quite high in comparison to leds.
Our best and most reliable results was adding around 10% of total wattage using a 2:1 spread of 400 and 365 diodes to a low blue, low green, heavy wide red led spectrum. Weve tried some other combos which worked well with some cultivars, bad with some else.
The very green heavy spectrums of most modern growlights gave less attractive change in taste and smells.

xox · Thursday at 2:27 PM

lol i thought this debate was settled at least 5 years ago.

jimihendrix1 · Thursday at 5:18 PM

Rocket Soul said:
The standard "full" spectrum growleds of the likes of SF, mars, pretty much every led of the market only covers 450-660nm well. Youll see some that have some near UV incorporated or far reds but it tends to be only the smallest smidgen. Par range is 400-700nm so that means the cover about 2/3rds of the par range.
Samsung EVOs expand this range from 450 to 437nm so a little bit more (but still quite important; if offers coverage of both chloro a and b on the blue side). The bio reactive range is even bigger.
Ive played around with adding leda from 295 to 680 and a little 730 with varied results. The blue and uv range definitely has an effect on the nose and flavors expressed. On potency i wouldnt really be able to tell, as for personal experience i disnt fins it incredibly more stony, but definitely better quality and more enjoyable. I never felt the Chocolate flavors from our Rainbow chips until i had it with uva and some chocolate almonds.

Its definitely true that different strains will react better or worse with uv. Weve had stuff that loves the uv and some strains not so much.
I havent tried the solarcure bulbs myself but had some mixed reviews. They tested lower for cannabinoids than just near uva 405nm in some tests i saw, also some other posters had a fair few problems and yield loss using them. Its true that they hit the uvr8 nicely but it seems to me that you want to use both uva and uvb when you grow; the uva seems to have a hardening effect on the plants, making it more ready to take the full depth of uvb. This reflects somewhat the experiences ive had adding uv thru leds: emulating the sloped character of the uv spectrum in nature 400>365>uvb, ideally targeting 285nm which is peak uvr8 activation. Incidentally the solarcure uvbs View attachment 5461576coverage of these deep uvb is somewhat lacking.
Uvr8 absortion:
View attachment 5461577
One of my friends swears by his uvb leds at 285 and its output is minimal, but effect on genetic triggering seems to be almost tenfold to 300nm.

I think nor led bars nor tubes is a perfect solution but from what ive seen myself and from friends i trust with no horse in the race: uv supplementation with leds is more than feasible, its just that there arent really any complete package products on the market which does it right. Though you can of course build this yourself with ledstar diodes if youre handy with a soldering iron or get someone to make you something custom
The solarcure of course works, theres no doubt about it, but im not certain they are a full reliable solution; especially in situations where you have your growlight down close towards the cannopy. Also the wattage they require seems quite high in comparison to leds.
Our best and most reliable results was adding around 10% of total wattage using a 2:1 spread of 400 and 365 diodes to a low blue, low green, heavy wide red led spectrum. Weve tried some other combos which worked well with some cultivars, bad with some else.
The very green heavy spectrums of most modern growlights gave less attractive change in taste and smells.

I use 2 of them, with a 1000w HID, for each 4 x 4 area, at 24 inches, and slowly build up the duration to 4 hours per day, but also still watch at the reaction the plants have to it. I also use often use a Blue Heavy Hortilux Blue or similar type of bulb for flowering, with a 6000k-6500k spectrum. Which the Halides, also release 280nm of light. All the way to 2400nm+. I use the Solacure, to intensify the lowest spectrum. I also find it useful with 1000w HPS-Hortilux to enhance the lowest spectrum.
Also at 280nm, it has been shown that it will reduce/eliminate powdery mildew. 280nm, is the line of UVB/UVC.

LED vs H.I.D

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