LED vs H.I.D

secretmicrogrow420

Well-Known Member
Before I Begin I do not consider myself a expert, I am just a man with a Hobbie, a lot of people are always asking what is better H.I.D or LED ? so lets put this topic 2 rest!

If anything I say in this article is not correct please correct me dont light me up! Less gooooo

#GrowingStr8GasGang!

Okay, so let’s break this down:

High-end LED lights can achieve up to 220 lumens per watt, though not all models reach this level. Some advanced LEDs even exceed 3.5 µmol/J in efficiency, meaning they are more efficient at producing photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) for plant growth.

A high-end Double-Ended High-Pressure Sodium (HPS) light can produce up to 160 lumens per watt, with an efficiency of around 1.9 µmol/J. In comparison, Double-Ended Metal Halide (MH) typically maxes out at around 120 lumens per watt, with a similar efficiency of 1.9 µmol/J.

Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH) is generally more efficient than standard Metal Halide and can exceed 2.1 µmol/J in some cases. However, it maxes out at around 130 lumens per watt, depending on the wattage and model. So, while the lumen efficiency is typically lower than high-end HPS lights, it is still higher than that of standard MH bulbs.

Many growers report that High-Intensity Discharge (HID) lights penetrate deeper into the canopy than LEDs. This is likely due to the single-point intensity of HID bulbs, which focus light more intensely on a small area. In contrast, most LEDs distribute light more evenly across the canopy, which can reduce canopy penetration but provides more uniform coverage.

So, on paper, LEDs is KING of the hill ladies and gentleman —LED lights produce more visible light and emit more photons per second than traditional HID lights. However, the penetration depth of HID lights can still offer advantages in certain grow setups, particularly when lighting large areas or deep canopies.

#Str8GasGang
 
Before I Begin I do not consider myself a expert, I am just a man with a Hobbie, a lot of people are always asking what is better H.I.D or LED ? so lets put this topic 2 rest!

If anything I say in this article is not correct please correct me dont light me up! Less gooooo

#GrowingStr8GasGang!

Okay, so let’s break this down:

High-end LED lights can achieve up to 220 lumens per watt, though not all models reach this level. Some advanced LEDs even exceed 3.5 µmol/J in efficiency, meaning they are more efficient at producing photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) for plant growth.

A high-end Double-Ended High-Pressure Sodium (HPS) light can produce up to 160 lumens per watt, with an efficiency of around 1.9 µmol/J. In comparison, Double-Ended Metal Halide (MH) typically maxes out at around 120 lumens per watt, with a similar efficiency of 1.9 µmol/J.

Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH) is generally more efficient than standard Metal Halide and can exceed 2.1 µmol/J in some cases. However, it maxes out at around 130 lumens per watt, depending on the wattage and model. So, while the lumen efficiency is typically lower than high-end HPS lights, it is still higher than that of standard MH bulbs.

Many growers report that High-Intensity Discharge (HID) lights penetrate deeper into the canopy than LEDs. This is likely due to the single-point intensity of HID bulbs, which focus light more intensely on a small area. In contrast, most LEDs distribute light more evenly across the canopy, which can reduce canopy penetration but provides more uniform coverage.

So, on paper, LEDs is KING of the hill ladies and gentleman —LED lights produce more visible light and emit more photons per second than traditional HID lights. However, the penetration depth of HID lights can still offer advantages in certain grow setups, particularly when lighting large areas or deep canopies.

#Str8GasGang
The last sentence alone I would say is incorrect.
The only area still somewhat debatable is Spectrum. But at this point the trade off's are making that topic a wash :peace:
 
The last sentence alone I would say is incorrect.
The only area still somewhat debatable is Spectrum. But at this point the trade off's are making that topic a wash :peace:
the last sentence being "#GrowingStr8GasGang?" #Fudge lol
also boss I am no expert But I do produce a solid product indoors #Facts, so what do you mean by the only area still somewhat debatable is spectrum? we all know that blue light + UV light ='s plants dont strech as much during veg.... etc.....
But I made this article because I saw a post about LED VS HPS so I figured we should just put this topic 2 rest.
 
the last sentence being "#GrowingStr8GasGang?" #Fudge lol
also boss I am no expert But I do produce a solid product indoors #Facts, so what do you mean by the only area still somewhat debatable is spectrum? we all know that blue light + UV light ='s plants dont strech as much during veg.... etc.....
But I made this article because I saw a post about LED VS HPS so I figured we should just put this topic 2 rest.
"However, the penetration depth of HID lights can still offer advantages in certain grow setups, particularly when lighting large areas or deep canopies."
Led had been superior for penetration and even ppfd distribution for some time.
HPS is all about the infra-red end of the spectrum. Not UV/Blue. :peace:
 
"However, the penetration depth of HID lights can still offer advantages in certain grow setups, particularly when lighting large areas or deep canopies."
Led had been superior for penetration and even ppfd distribution for some time.
HPS is all about the infra-red end of the spectrum. Not UV/Blue. :peace:
well fuq me I assumed due to the single point light intensity that H.I.D bulbs produced light that penetrated deeper into the canopy vs LED. Testing Incoming!
I will update my article soon, thnx mate I appreciate your input!
Fuq know I gotta buy a high end D.E H.I.D setup T.T
 
Halide-Specifically 5000k-6500k, have a MUCH WIDER SPECTRUM, than any LED ever made for commercial use.

A Hortilux Blue, has a 6500k rating, and a Spectrum of 280nm-2400nm+. Aint no LED that can come anywhere near that spectrum.
The new MMS 1000w Halide, is 6500k, and 15%-20% more powerful than the 1000w Hortilux Blue. Plus, the Halide, has More Red, than the Hortilux 1000w HPS,,, though, it is also Blue Heavy.

The Ushio 1000w Dual End Halide, is 5500k, and 1800umol. In a 4 x 4, nothing, is going to outperform this bulb, as it is a bright, or brighter than it needs to be, for the area. At its brightest, the SUN, is 2100umol, and it isnt that bright, the whole time, it is out. So, one can easily have as many, or more photons hitting the plants, than in nature.

LED efficiency, is being rethought, as they do not produce very much, in the Invisible Light Spectrum, which is extremely important, as they are now making EPar meters, to measure invisible light, though, they are still not as sophisticated, as they could be.

But as far as a complete spectrum, no LED, is anywhere near as close to the SUN, as a 5000k-6500k HALIDE. Be it single, or DE.
 
Halide-Specifically 5000k-6500k, have a MUCH WIDER SPECTRUM, than any LED ever made for commercial use.

A Hortilux Blue, has a 6500k rating, and a Spectrum of 280nm-2400nm+. Aint no LED that can come anywhere near that spectrum.
The new MMS 1000w Halide, is 6500k, and 15%-20% more powerful than the 1000w Hortilux Blue. Plus, the Halide, has More Red, than the Hortilux 1000w HPS,,, though, it is also Blue Heavy.

The Ushio 1000w Dual End Halide, is 5500k, and 1800umol. In a 4 x 4, nothing, is going to outperform this bulb, as it is a bright, or brighter than it needs to be, for the area. At its brightest, the SUN, is 2100umol, and it isnt that bright, the whole time, it is out. So, one can easily have as many, or more photons hitting the plants, than in nature.

LED efficiency, is being rethought, as they do not produce very much, in the Invisible Light Spectrum, which is extremely important, as they are now making EPar meters, to measure invisible light, though, they are still not as sophisticated, as they could be.

But as far as a complete spectrum, no LED, is anywhere near as close to the SUN, as a 5000k-6500k HALIDE. Be it single, or DE.
I agree with you on paper.
But having ran Hortilux Blue vs Super HPS a long while back - the Blue grown flower was gorgeous and truly top shelf in exterior appearance, the hps flower was always way chunkier and for some reason preferred by everyone that smoke the finished product :confused:

These days the reality is how much weight in the bag for how much expenses (power, nutrients, inputs, etc)
There is just no getting around that one and Hortilux tapping out was kinda the final straw that slapped me into accepting that HID was not going to be a significant player moving forward :peace:
 
I agree with you on paper.
But having ran Hortilux Blue vs Super HPS a long while back - the Blue grown flower was gorgeous and truly top shelf in exterior appearance, the hps flower was always way chunkier and for some reason preferred by everyone that smoke the finished product :confused:

These days the reality is how much weight in the bag for how much expenses (power, nutrients, inputs, etc)
There is just no getting around that one and Hortilux tapping out was kinda the final straw that slapped me into accepting that HID was not going to be a significant player moving forward :peace:
Its true HPS will produce more weed.

BUT, some tests have shown, weed grown under Halide, had chemicals that were MISSING, when grown under LED-HPS, that were also present, using the sun.
 
Its true HPS will produce more weed.

BUT, some tests have shown, weed grown under Halide, had chemicals that were MISSING, when grown under LED-HPS, that were also present, using the sun.

Someone told me they dont bother pressing for rosin with their plants grown in led but with sunshine. Inspired me to figure out how to get more rosin from indoor plants which I prefer growing in. Why though? What are leds missing? They didnt say.
 
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