Recent content by csharper

Hi fatman, a few questions to further the discussion: 0.) You say to change the res every week, but it stands to reason that there is a holy grail nutrient ratio:reservoir size:plant volume which could alleviate this for 90ish days. As in the plants eat pretty much exactly what you put in... Or...

I use my dual 400 blues at 12"; 18"+ = major stretch. Blue travels farther than red, so having the HPS in there isn't going to change much. About that UV warning - it's just saying don't scratch/crack the outer glass, right? Or are they warning about active uv out of the box? Which means the...

not just any mh and hps btw, but a 400 watt hortilux blue + 600 watt super hps = pretty sick bulb, my friend see what I did with 2 400w blues @ https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/56258-day-25-flower.html

Day 25, 30 days after 12/12 2x400watt hortilux blue 4x105watt 6500k (megalight) (didn't add until day 5 after 12/12) Jan 1: seeds into ocean forest 1 gallon pots, 20/4 lighting Feb10: 12/12 start ~Feb15: preflowers/culling males Mar 1: topped off pots with fresh ocean forest, little extra water...

tell us the ingredient(s) of the "aquarium" phup for your answer... I suspect if its OK for fish it is OK for plants. So you are looking for a chemical name on the bottle and we can tell you for sure.

your plants are eating the acidic nutrients ... so the ph goes up. You are replacing the acidic nutrients with an acidic ph down ... If you add more nutrients at that point the ph will go further down. So the proper cycle would be feed, monitor ph and replace nutrients with ph down as needed...

OK, I normally would mind my own business but I have to do this: This is an apartment, i.e. shared building, i.e. you cannot run 2000 watts continuous improper wiring or you are going to end up with homicide charges when you burn some poor family upstairs to ashes... I had huge trouble getting...

aspergillus flavus? maybe not absolute poison, but I can't imagine it is good to smoke, never mind in a tent in my bedroom. Don't have an EC meter, is there a relation between salts and mold? 82f/40-44rh - never, ever higher than 50rh Watering "when they need it", i.e. once a week in 1G pots...

no, no, lime will raise the ph ...- I bet as it dries out it will go back down. What kind of soil are you using? Tap water? How did you check the ph? the problem is insufficient light.. my 14 plants are 2 1/2 weeks old with 5+ nodes under 800 watts 20/4 - and I even had ph problems for a week...

are these soil surface molds inherently bad, or is it just the conditions leading to them that are bad for the plant?

the ones with the most soil issues are, starting from the back left, row2,col4 and 4,3 - although there are trace amounts in about half of the pots now. I didn't notice then but you can see the beginnings in 4,3, in picture 2 from last night.

these are from last night, not much has changed except a little bigger ... the yellowing in the last pic is from what I believe was a ph issue that I have since corrected - other than that you can see the 17 day old garden in the first three

How did you come to that conclusion and is it harmful? Quick search shows 200+ subspecies, I will research it more after lunch. Any pointers would be helpful. I am running 82f/40 humidity with 500 cfm in 128 ft^3 - although I will buy another temp/hum gauge now for more than one readout.

Today I noticed a white, powdery, possibly "web-like" substance on the top of my soil... Looking at the pics I took last night, it seems it was in one of the pots to a lesser degree. No plant damage (yet...) Anybody know what this is? In addition to the 800x600 attachments, 2 sets of 7...

17 days old, front two rows are nirvana afghani, back two are nirvana northern lights... 2x400w hortilux blue Comments/criticism welcome. Bonus points if you can tell me what might be wrong with the plant in the last three pics.