Got ventilation done what ya think?

cdd10

Well-Known Member
Well I have a friend that does heating and cooling for a living very trustworthy to me so I asked him to do my ventilation. It's 6" ducting going to my attic with a 6" 250 cfm inline fan pulling the hot air out I have a passive intake with the cool air from the spare bedroom blowing in. I have fan pointed at the passive intake blowing cool air into the passive intake. Got the clip on fan on the inside but I don't like how it's positioned so I am thinking of putting a small tower fan in the corner?? It's a 39x39x79 tent btw what ya guys think?? I just turned on the lights and everything gonna see how the temps are gonna be and if it's gonna work.
 

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cdd10

Well-Known Member
I have a 6" inline Booster fan if I need more cooler air coming in. Don't know if I will need it yet.
 

zem

Well-Known Member
your friend seems to know what he is doing, it looks pretty neat. try to position the fan at the end of duct to pull through it instead of push the hot air along it. Cheers
 

cdd10

Well-Known Member
The fan is right at that bend of the ducting. Yeah it should work I turned on the lights about an hour and half ago, people say let it run three hours right to get an accurate temp? I think it will work pretty good
 

cdd10

Well-Known Member
your friend seems to know what he is doing, it looks pretty neat. try to position the fan at the end of duct to pull through it instead of push the hot air along it. Cheers
Yeah and only charged me $75 bucks materials and all lol good deal imo I couldn't have done it better or even close to looking that neat
 

zem

Well-Known Member
for 75$ I say he is a very dear friend. this thing cost him that amount or very close to it. he isn't trying to make any profits out of this. maybe he is hopeful that you will give him some of the fruits from that growroom :D
 

cdd10

Well-Known Member
Oh I'll definitely hook him up temperature is kinda high right now but that's with no fan on inside I am gonna open up two more passive intake holes. My room is light proof no light getting into it, should be safe ya think?
 

zem

Well-Known Member
oscillating fans don't help lowering temps. make good passive intake holes like 3-4x the size of exhaust hole. skip the oscillating fan test for later. you will be surprised to know that a misplaced oscillating fan can diminish exhaust by so much by disrupting the airflow and raising the temps. temps inside grow area will normally be higher by about 6-8F than outside
 

cdd10

Well-Known Member
oscillating fans don't help lowering temps. make good passive intake holes like 3-4x the size of exhaust hole. skip the oscillating fan test for later. you will be surprised to know that a misplaced oscillating fan can diminish exhaust by so much by disrupting the airflow and raising the temps. temps inside grow area will normally be higher by about 6-8F than outside
Ah really now, figured it would help but Thank you! :) so about these passive intake holes. Do I cut them out of my tent lol. I have about three or four port holes I'm not using...
 

zem

Well-Known Member
why don't you start with trying to crack that door a little to see if it is the intake problem. you figure the best way to make holes depending on location of the tent preventing light leaks. somewhere at the bottom is typical, make sure that you are not intaking from the same room that you are exhausting into, cant help much with the info i got really, just think of the easiest route for the airflow with the least obstacles ducts or curves. EVERY room that I build now i place the fan staight to the wall of the room to blow freely outside and place very big spaces for air intake freely. the whole chamber acts as a duct this way...
 

cdd10

Well-Known Member
Okay I get what you're saying. I do have a question though. Where should I place my thermometer in the tent to get the most accurate reading. I mean if I just sit it on the floor it's gonna read hot because the light is beaming down on it right? Thinking about hanging it near the top of tent?
 

cdd10

Well-Known Member
why don't you start with trying to crack that door a little to see if it is the intake problem. you figure the best way to make holes depending on location of the tent preventing light leaks. somewhere at the bottom is typical, make sure that you are not intaking from the same room that you are exhausting into, cant help much with the info i got really, just think of the easiest route for the airflow with the least obstacles ducts or curves. EVERY room that I build now i place the fan staight to the wall of the room to blow freely outside and place very big spaces for air intake freely. the whole chamber acts as a duct this way...
And I'm exhausting to the attic. And getting air from the spare bedroom the tent is in so that shouldn't be a problem right
 

zem

Well-Known Member
place thermometer somewhere at the light level but far from the light like 4" from the wall of the room at light level. make sure that the attic has opening to the outside. these openings act as passive exhaust which is harder to attain maximum efficiency than passive intake, therefore, the openings in your attic must be big like windows or doors. if attic is TOTALLY sealed, you might as well place the fan at the end of the attic :D
 

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Be careful exhausting warm moist air into a cold attic. Condensation forms on the plywood sheeting causing black mold in your home.
 

zem

Well-Known Member
nice setup, I love the lightweight and simplicity of it. You could still have neater wiring for more safety like tubes and hang them to the wall. I don't see a ppm or EC meter, is it just not in the pics or you don't have one?
 

cdd10

Well-Known Member
nice setup, I love the lightweight and simplicity of it. You could still have neater wiring for more safety like tubes and hang them to the wall. I don't see a ppm or EC meter, is it just not in the pics or you don't have one?
Gotta wait on another paycheck and I'll be ordering one! :)
 

cdd10

Well-Known Member
Be careful exhausting warm moist air into a cold attic. Condensation forms on the plywood sheeting causing black mold in your home.
Oh really. The attic doesn't have a door it has a pretty big doorway in the ceiling of my garage Hm. Now ya got me worried lol
 

cdd10

Well-Known Member
Well I put my GrowBright thermometer about 3/4 way up the tent. Then I hooked up the probe and have it where I think the tip of my pots will be and it's reading 78° that should be alright I would think
 

zem

Well-Known Member
ppm meter is actually a more important tool than ph meter. I have been regulating my ph using ph drops ever since my ph pen died but for ppm I couldn't use any alternative. without ppm, you are "blind". my ppm meter is for $31 online got it for 40 from store http://www.warehouse-aquatics.co.uk/d-d-tds-meter.html very good and reliable doesnt drift out of calibration and is calibrated with NaCl aka table salt so if you can measure 1 exact gram of pure table salt and one exact liter of water, you get yourself a liter of calibrating solution 1000ppm. its probe can be cleaned but not stored with distilled water, very handy low cost tool.
the attic that is linked to garage must be open and the garage itself must be open. that air has to exit to the outdoor somehow. I wouldnt worry about any condensation
 
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