Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

Dboi87

Well-Known Member
Thanks. Next time you visit and buy from a farmer, whether he has 1 acre or 1,000, give him a hug. He deserves it.
Definitely. I never really realized how much work goes into caring for a crop/plant. I say caring because anyone can plant a seed but to really try to learn and understand it and keep it healthy is no easy task. (I struggle with my lil 400w :wall:)Now you couple that all with being at the mercy of outside elements while hoping it all sums up to successful enough year to cover expensive with a lil something left on the side.... man... tough folks for sure. I tip my hat to you and yours alike.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Just have to share one of favorite videos. Doesn't necessarily have any relevant meaning for this thread, just funny as hell!

A priceless Ming vase goes up for auction......

[video=youtube;3e0yZCLjwfU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=3e0yZCLjwfU[/video]
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
UB...

I seem to have the same issue every grow. Around day 20 or so of flower I get this happening.
View attachment 2906261

Soil is a mixture of Sphagnum peat, steer manure, forest compost, perlite and garden lime. I have fed half strength (22ml per 1.5 gallons) with canna terre vega 2-1-3 every 3rd watering during veg and have switched to (30ml per 1.5 gallons) terra flores 2-2-4 three waterings ago. This started 4 waterings ago so 9 days ago.

I am leaning towards nute burn but am lost at this point.
I was hoping you were going to say the PPM you had. You might want to invest in at least a PPM pen. Most of this stuff you read on the labels is WRONG. They are selling not growing. And even then, they say less than that, don't they? 30ml in 1.5 gal? Too much.

So, you rush it, like I do. Some of this stuff, like my Dutch Masters, say to run it at 400 ppm for clones and 1500 ppm for bloom.

I will tell you from experience, if you have not worked up the roots to take that, and just moved on the schedule, you will burn them.

And my gosh you are already in steer manure and compost. No need for extra Nutes. And certainly not at that strength.

We cannot make this stuff grow. It grows on it's on. Only humans can screw this up And for me, if I don't take all that care in first month to root them in properly, they cannot take adult plant nute strength.

Back down to just water for a while before it is too late.
 

budman111

Well-Known Member
I was hoping you were going to say the PPM you had. You might want to invest in at least a PPM pen. Most of this stuff you read on the labels is WRONG. They are selling not growing. And even then, they say less than that, don't they? 30ml in 1.5 gal? Too much.

So, you rush it, like I do. Some of this stuff, like my Dutch Masters, say to run it at 400 ppm for clones and 1500 ppm for bloom.

I will tell you from experience, if you have not worked up the roots to take that, and just moved on the schedule, you will burn them.

And my gosh you are already in steer manure and compost. No need for extra Nutes. And certainly not at that strength.

We cannot make this stuff grow. It grows on it's on. Only humans can screw this up And for me, if I don't take all that care in first month to root them in properly, they cannot take adult plant nute strength.

Back down to just water for a while before it is too late.
Do you take into account your tap water PPM?
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
Right....I thought I had seen this before as a straight up Calcium deficit. But, he said he had lime in there. Reading up on it, dark green and yellow spots on the edges in a sign of Calcium lack.

And good point about the tap water. Total PPM is everything.



The growth of the marijuana plant is stunted by the calcium deficiency and the leaves become dark green. Dried tissue and large necrotic blotches of tan are the results.

http://www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com/nutrients-deficiency-calcium/
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
I'm using Foliage Pro at 5 ml / gallon in Pro Mix. I stopped using Jacks because I want a complete nutrient and not have to worry about the micros / Ca / Mg etc. For the last few cycles the plants look perfect up to about 2-3 weeks into flower and that is when everything just starts going to shit... My best guess is I'm getting nutrient build up and it's causing lots of nutrient antagonism or w/e.. Here are 2 pic


View attachment 2900148View attachment 2900150
are you using distilled or r/o water? I get that if I don't add cal?mag in with my FP.
 

papajohn

Well-Known Member
ub i have 25 gal of soil which consist of peatmoss/perlite & vermiculite to germinate my seedlings,whats your recommended dosage for

blood meal,
bone meal
alfalfa cubes/gal of water
dolomite lime

the above 4 ammendments shouldnt hurt seedlings sprout right?
 

lilman

Well-Known Member
Morning UB..
Now that you have had a chance to grow with jacks classic citrus feed I was wondering if you still think its better then their dynamic duo of 20 20 20 and 10 20 30. Did you have to amend the soil with anything or is the cirtrus food complete ?
Thanx for your time !!
The Lilman
 

papajohn

Well-Known Member
ub i gonna go with 2 tbsp each of blood & bone meal for 10 gal of soil.

what about the alfalfa cubes,how much should i use per gal of water for 25 gal of soil??
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Don't have an opinion on what's better. All will get you there.

On the alfalfa horse cubes, try about 6 in 25 gals. of soil.
 

gfigs911

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone,
Although this is only my second grow, I have been following Uncle Bens suggestions as closely as I can and I have 2 beautiful plants to show for it. These girls are at day 38 of flower and growing buds very nicely! Just wanted to say thanks for all the great info you guys post on this thread. Without websites like RIU, none of this would be possible. Thanks again!
IMG_0151.jpg
 

Anotherlover

Active Member
Temperature and the importance of day/night differential - In general, a 85/70F (32/16C) day/night temp is best for most hybrids for maximum carbo production. What's really important is a good drop in temperature at night, of at least 15F/4C. If night temps are too high, the plant will use up the carbos manufactured during the day to the process of respiration as opposed to plant cell division/elongation (tissue production).
My plants are not doing that bad and I don't have the luxury of a huge day/night temperature difference but would love to hear what you would do in a similar situation.

I run my lights at night (7pm to 7am).
Night time temperatures are on average 78 to 86 (with lights on).
Day time is usually around 85 to 94 (with lights off).

Small little grow for personal use only.

My lights are as follows:
1x 400watt hps
2x 105watt cfl

Extraction is a single 8" inline fan (around 800m3 an hour), pulls all the air out of the room about 4 times a minute.
I put the larger fan in to keep air moving out as fast as is possible for maximum possible c02 in the room, there is no way with my ambient temps that I can add c02 to the room as it will easily go up to 104' without constant air extration at an extremely fast rate.

Quick edit if you would like to see the room:
https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/754732-my-little-flowering-room.html
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone,
Although this is only my second grow, I have been following Uncle Bens suggestions as closely as I can and I have 2 beautiful plants to show for it. These girls are at day 38 of flower and growing buds very nicely! Just wanted to say thanks for all the great info you guys post on this thread. Without websites like RIU, none of this would be possible. Thanks again!
View attachment 2916815
Those are damn fine looking plants! Curious, what food are you and have you been using? NPK?

Highly recommend you stay away from the bloom foods if you want to maintain such nice healthy plants and get high yields. Bloom foods WILL work against your yields.
 
Top