RedCarpetMatches
Well-Known Member
It's clamped. Same clamp you use on your nippies.the PVC is just resting in the bucket. Its not mounted in any way. I should of said "lazy vortexer"
It's clamped. Same clamp you use on your nippies.the PVC is just resting in the bucket. Its not mounted in any way. I should of said "lazy vortexer"
Please read the first link. It will answer all your questions. I could tell you the answers, but don't want to deprive you of MM's magic.I put some new potting soil in a sock added a little guano and fish emulsion and unsulfered molasses .....im starttinf to get foam at the top of my bucket ....this is a good thing right ?
I didnt have any compost off hand so I used a good quality potting soil with ewc,kelp meal, and alot of other o
Good stuff..
You guys think this tea is safe to use ? Its been bubbling for about 18hrs
The foam doesn't really mean anything. It COULD be a sign of microbial activity, but tons of stuff can cause the foam. Not good, not bad, just par for the course. If you have kelp in there, bubble for 28 hours at least. Kelp stops the microbial multiplication for about 24 hours. This is why LOS heads put the kelp first, bubble for 24 hours, then add the EWC and bubble for another 24. You DID add the BSM right? That is your main food-stock for the microbes.I put some new potting soil in a sock added a little guano and fish emulsion and unsulfered molasses .....im starttinf to get foam at the top of my bucket ....this is a good thing right ?
I didnt have any compost off hand so I used a good quality potting soil with ewc,kelp meal, and alot of other o
Good stuff..
You guys think this tea is safe to use ? Its been bubbling for about 18hrs
You must have huge nipples RedIt's clamped. Same clamp you use on your nippies.
Because that is how he rolls. Yo muthafukin brewa has mo' shizzness dat way yo. No seriously, palm in face Red. LOL.What do you mean "ghetto"? Why's your tea gotta be black?!
I honestly think PURE ACT with only the molasses and EWC is the way forward. Technically, it kinda DEFINES ACT. Depends, adding fish hydrolysate will give you a more fungal tea. Depends what you want... Wish I had a microscope...I like it simple & just do the 2c compost 1/2c BSM to 5 gal H20
but these days I am think'n about using kelp & fish hydrolysate {which I've never bought} but I did use kelp 1x before ~mainly, it's the LOS guys talk'n about bubbling the kelp & fish hydrolysate 24hrs before adding the compost/BSM
here's a vid of my brewer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xA2KeTcoWGs
That is The Rev's All Purpose Tea recipe. A combination nute/compost tea. His soil cooks are coco based, so if yours is peat based, the CaMg+ is absolutely not needed. If it is coco based, then you might want to consider the CaMg+ I personally feel the fish emulsion has enough Ca and Mg. I have treated Mg def with fishy goop before. It works just fine. Leaving the bottle nutes out is a great plan. I substituted it with worm wee. The liquid stuff that comes out a worm farm. DEFINITELY bubble for a full 24 after adding the EWC. Your plants will thank you for that one. It is all about how the extra nutes inhibit microbe multiplication for a while.Just dumped something very similar on my plants.
I have to admit, it smelled better at 36 hours than it did last time I made it at 48 hours. I upped my bubble strength.
The ppm of the last batch was around 650, which seems perfect.
I used this, stolen from gandalf (among others)
1 tbsp of mollasses
20 drops of G.O. Camg+ (I used pond water from my tap. I do not add camag, is that a mistake?)
1 tbsp of dry all purpose ferttilizer NPK close to 5-5-5-. I use this.....http://www.coastofmaine.com/fertiliz...ter_kelp.shtml
1 tbsp of kelp meal
1 tbsp of high N all purpose peruvian guano
1 tspn of liquid fish fert with some N in it
1/4 cup Big Bloom by FF (I do not have any bottled nutes, I left this out)
Bubble 24 hours then add:
1/2 - cup of fresh compost or ewcs. I alternate.
Bubble 24 more hours. (I bubble it 12 more hours after adding the EWC or compost to stick with the 36 hour deal.)
But once again quoting the man himself, there is no need for stinky fish.Fish hydrolysate feeds both fungi and bacteria...MM says so Kelp also feeds microbes after around 24 hours of brewing. Ham you've been off da mutha fuckin chain lately!!!
For the first 24 hours yes. I don't need a link for that, MM states right-out that kelp does this. Point two in the quote I just quoted a few quotes down. So any tea recipe (including the Rev's) that calls for kelp meal, an extra 24 hour bubble is a good idea. 48 hours is my rule of thumb these days. That's how long it takes to get that delicious 'shroomy' smell MM tells us to watch forIs it wrong to add a protein shake? Seriously though, can Rev's multipurpose brew possibly slow down the microbes from growing and multiplying? Do have a link of any research?
Those are the two ways to get it right! Follow the recipe EXACTLY including bubbling time, or get a microscope. I am going to buy one of MM's tricked-out ones. And add a digital eye piece to take pics!I just follow his recipe Wish I had a damn microscope!
Here's another quote from MM for you, Red:Is it wrong to add a protein shake? Seriously though, can Rev's multipurpose brew possibly slow down the microbes from growing and multiplying? Do have a link of any research?
Where you are is cool for early veg. I would aim to double or triple the ppms based upon the stage the plants are in. I run it staged based.Ok so I just made my first aact and its ppm came out to 429ppm. What's some numbers to shoot for ph and ppm wise?
Very helpful MH. Looks like an update is in need. So I'll continue to keep the teas separate...until I get that peeper.Here's another quote from MM for you, Red:
On adding things to ACT: It does seem convenient to toss eveything you might wish to apply to your soil or plants into your ACT, finished or not but the apparent effect is usually to instantly deplete available O2. I do discuss this in the opening thread. I am not the be all nor end all so certainly, if you have measurement instruments, go ahead and experiment.
As Wayne has alluded to, I discovered that simple is just as good as complex in terms of recipe so usually these days my ACT consists of fresh and aged vermicompost blended then activated used along with molasses. That's it.
xmo is right, May. An AACT is simply an extraction of microbes present in your compost. Molasses is used as a food stock (energy) for the microbes to consume during their multiplication. PPM's play no role when brewing an ACT. The only consideration for PH would be for the water source that you're using to brew the ACT. If your water's PH is way out of whack, or if there is a high concentration of chlorine/chloramine then you could end up with a less-than optimal brew, but aside from that I'm not really following what exactly you would be measuring when brewing an ACT?? Measuring PPM's when brewing a nutrient tea might make sense, although I never bother.Its not misleading , I think of it as fine tuning, I want to make sure the ph is between 6-7 and I want to make sure they are getting enough ppm but not overor under, I still havent found a ppermanent recipe to go by so I keep fooling around and checking the stats of each brew. I find it comforting and if you take notes its very good to include all the fine details. I believe that until you ran certain nutrient teas and aact teas in your setup then you shouldnt feel completely comfortable w what your doing. Atleast im not. I check ph of water before nutes after and before I feed and day by day to see if there is fluctuations, it might not be needed but it is deff not a bad thing. Its like microbeman using his scope, im just using diff instruments to do diff things, I dont wqnt t to see bacteria, im a germo fobe and theh freak me out, especially the worm ones, I like the orbs that bounce around making other bacteria dissappear. I watched videos of Tim wilson and I feel he knows his stuff .