Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

B

bdonson

Well-Known Member
Okay UB I believe I have one for you. My results as a hobby grower have been for the most part pretty dismal over the last 3-4 years due to who the hell knows why. Indoor or out I have hermi issues every time. Recently however an acquaintance of mine and I were discussing my problems and this person kept looking at me while I was smoking nice fresh cigar and looking at a couple of small plants that I had transplanted about a week earlier and quite frankly looked like shit for no reason. He mentioned Tobacco Mosaic Virus. Nobody enjoys a nice fresh gar more than I, is it possible that I am my own worst enemy in this issue? From what I have been able to read Tobacco Mosaic Virus is one of the first plant viruses ever discovered maybe over a hundred years ago, is very stable meaning long lasting and is present on virtually anything tobacco especially cigars. However I haven't been able to find anything other than on a forum like this one where some said it a big issue and others call bullshit.. Your Thoughts? cheers
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
bdonson said:
Okay UB I believe I have one for you. My results as a hobby grower have been for the most part pretty dismal over the last 3-4 years due to who the hell knows why. Indoor or out I have hermi issues every time. Recently however an acquaintance of mine and I were discussing my problems and this person kept looking at me while I was smoking nice fresh cigar and looking at a couple of small plants that I had transplanted about a week earlier and quite frankly looked like shit for no reason. He mentioned Tobacco Mosaic Virus. Nobody enjoys a nice fresh gar more than I, is it possible that I am my own worst enemy in this issue? From what I have been able to read Tobacco Mosaic Virus is one of the first plant viruses ever discovered maybe over a hundred years ago, is very stable meaning long lasting and is present on virtually anything tobacco especially cigars. However I haven't been able to find anything other than on a forum like this one where some said it a big issue and others call bullshit.. Your Thoughts? cheers
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I can't answer that one. Find out what the symptoms of TMV are and see if it fits. More than likely your failures are due to subscribing to forum "logic" and practices. If you can grow tomatoes really well, then use the same methods/foods, etc. for cannabis.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
CarlinistFellow said:
....As a newbie I had a lot of choices for which way to grow based on what I was reading, and your way made the most sense to me. I'm sure there's a million different ways to grow this weed, but the keep-leaves-green method you preach has gotten me pretty far along. Hoping to keep it up!
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Common sense dictates that it's leaves that produce plant cells, and that includes buds. Glad you finally "see the light".

One question: I'm losing a good bit of my lower fan leaves, from what I assume is lack of light since I have six plants crowded into a space really best suited for 3 or 4. Is that explanaition most reasonable, or could I be underfeeding? Would underfeeding result in lower leaves wilting and dropping off?

Thanks Ben!
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I lose very few lower leaves, almost none and my indoor plants were always crammed into a small space. I made sure they had plenty of N and used side reflecting panels. Usually lower leaf drop is the first sign that there's a deficiency in N. They always showed leaf necrosis every time I grabbed the bloom foods, it was just a matter of time.

Good luck,
UB
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Comacus said:
[HR][/HR] Well I just got back from being gone for 4 days. I hoped the problem would be getting better but it got worse. Looking at new growth it is difficult to see if they are coming out of it, or if this malady is just one that starts at the bottom, and moves to the top.[HR][/HR] I do wonder if it may have been caused by the Sinosad Drench I did. It has hit pretty much every plant from small seedlings to more mature, and everything in between. A couple plants seem to be immune. [HR][/HR] First picture is from 5 days ago, second same leaf today, and third an overall look (different plant). [HR][/HR]I did also inspect the leaves for bugs but do not see any. The spots start on the tips of the leaves on the outer edge, and then spread along the whole leaf, finally moving through the whole leave. [HR][/HR]What do you think?View attachment 2846929View attachment 2846930View attachment 2846931
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Looks like a nutritional problem to me. The spots are a symptom of some kind of problem, most likely cultural if you've ruled out insect or disease pressure. Yes, they'll start as spots and as those spots become more numerous the symptom takes over the entire leaf tissue. That's just what plants do.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
papajohn said:
no luck at the feed store as well ub ,i know the markup on those merchant sites are high.got the blood meal 12-0-0 and bone meal 6-9-0 in the mail today.

would anyone of the links provided work or i may just grab me some down to earth alfalfa meal and done with..
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Buy horse cubes (nuggets).

FWIW, bone meal contains no N. Don't know what you bought, not that it will hurt.
 
CarlinistFellow

CarlinistFellow

Active Member
Thanks for the advice, UB. I've been using Jack's Classic 20-20-20 throughout my feeding, including through flower. That's why I thought it might be a light issue. I do suspect I've been light on the nutrients, and have upped the ppm on my feeds in an attempt to correct. Thanks again!
 
chuck estevez

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
Impman

Impman

Well-Known Member
Here at the clubs we have top shelf and outdoor. There is some really good outdoor weed and that usually sells for about 30$ a eighth while the not so good can go for as low as 20$ a eighth. The top shelf bud goes from 40-60$......that pretty much the norm... there are many clubs that don't carry outdoor bud at all. In the emerald triangle you can grow top shelf bud outdoor. I have seen some amazing outdoor from Humboldt.

I wonder if a green thumb could come and grow top shelf outdoor bud in the hot valley where I live. most summer days are 100+ and humid. But, I wonder if there is not a strain that can be pulled off to resemble that perfect bud. ....I often day dream about a hybrid indoor/outdoor grow.... a indoor grow with huge skylights on the walls and roof mixed with indoor lighting...solar panels of course. It seems like getting the temps at that perfect range is vital for that top shelf nug, but it would sure be nice if there were strains that thrived in the intense heat.
 
M

mk3coupe

Well-Known Member
Hello Uncle Ben,I have a question for ya. I am not in a position to mix my own soils so I was wondering if you could recommend a premixed soil, Thus far I have just been using promix 4 with perolite mixed in. I really would like to move from the soil less to the sol mix. I finally found a garden nursery that sells the jacks classic. If I remember right you use the Jacks Classic all the way through? Do you use any other of the JP line? I think I saw that you like the "citrus feed"?

Also, how do you feel about LED lighting. I am quite capable of making my own light systems, but was wondering what you thought was on the whole thing. Well I would like to thank you for any help. Peace brother.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Sorry can't help you on the brands of soils as I only mix my own in bulk but I would think just about any name brand is gonna be fine. They're all expensive. Promix 4 should be fine. I use Jack's Citrus FeED but also heard good things about Miracle Gro and Jack's Peat lite special. Again, I have a dozen different brands of plant foods and buy most in bulk. I also like slow release foods like Polyon or Osmocote.
 
NewtoMJ

NewtoMJ

Well-Known Member
I was wondering, every grow journal and most of the people I see growing anything in containers all start their seeds out in small containers and work up from there. What's the benefit to this? It would seem to me, that starting in the finishing size container gives the roots the best chance at spreading, and developing without being hindered due to lack of growing room. Thoughts?
 
Izoc666

Izoc666

Well-Known Member
NewtoMJ said:
I was wondering, every grow journal and most of the people I see growing anything in containers all start their seeds out in small containers and work up from there. What's the benefit to this? It would seem to me, that starting in the finishing size container gives the roots the best chance at spreading, and developing without being hindered due to lack of growing room. Thoughts?
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I dont have any grow journal but i does grow in the small containers before place into any final pots. I took Uncle Ben's advices in other posts about root system and bury the stems. And I saw the huge difference.

by the way, I grow in the rootmaker pots. Heres a pictures,( Tio Ben, its okay to share ?)

grow in the pint size



buried stems in 1 gallon pot



its 8 and half weeks of bloom



Maybe you should give it a try to do small container to start seedling and buried stems ? its highly recommend to use this method !

happy gardening :D
 
BWG707

BWG707

Well-Known Member
I understand the reasoning behind starting plants in small containers and transplanting up to bigger but I've started seeds and baby clones in 5 and 10gal pots and inground. They take longer to show foliage growth but when they start, the growth is rapid, probably due to the roots developing and spreading out. Maybe I was lucky but it worked for me. I think the main issue with starting seeds or seedlings in large pots or inground is that they can be easily overwatered.
 
socaljoe

socaljoe

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
Sorry can't help you on the brands of soils as I only mix my own in bulk but I would think just about any name brand is gonna be fine. They're all expensive. Promix 4 should be fine. I use Jack's Citrus FeED but also heard good things about Miracle Gro and Jack's Peat lite special. Again, I have a dozen different brands of plant foods and buy most in bulk. I also like slow release foods like Polyon or Osmocote.
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Hey UB, I was curious about slow/controlled release ferts and figured I'd ask you for your thoughts.

When using a slow release fertilizer, do you stick to the same NPK values, 3-1-2 for example, that you've stated are good for healthy plants, or do you find a different ratio works better with slow release?

As always, your input is appreciated.
 
Mad Hamish

Mad Hamish

Well-Known Member
Impman said:
Here at the clubs we have top shelf and outdoor. There is some really good outdoor weed and that usually sells for about 30$ a eighth while the not so good can go for as low as 20$ a eighth. The top shelf bud goes from 40-60$......that pretty much the norm... there are many clubs that don't carry outdoor bud at all. In the emerald triangle you can grow top shelf bud outdoor. I have seen some amazing outdoor from Humboldt.

I wonder if a green thumb could come and grow top shelf outdoor bud in the hot valley where I live. most summer days are 100+ and humid. But, I wonder if there is not a strain that can be pulled off to resemble that perfect bud. ....I often day dream about a hybrid indoor/outdoor grow.... a indoor grow with huge skylights on the walls and roof mixed with indoor lighting...solar panels of course. It seems like getting the temps at that perfect range is vital for that top shelf nug, but it would sure be nice if there were strains that thrived in the intense heat.
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I mainly grow outdoors and our summers can hit daytime temps of 120 no problem. 100 is a mild day before the main heat lol. ANY Sativa will thrive. Take a look at something like Gage Green's Shadowdancer, Colombian land race sat crossed to Chem4, or Miss Colombia which is Colombian x Skunk pretty much. Skunk crosses love it here. Just use huge planters made from wood, the biggest problem with temps like this is cooking the roots right in the pots. Anything under 10 gal is totally useless if not painted flat white. Hot days, no problem. Hot and wet is a different story.
 
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