• Here is a link to the full explanation: https://rollitup.org/t/welcome-back-did-you-try-turning-it-off-and-on-again.1104810/

Cool Jars?

gladstoned

gladstoned

Well-Known Member
I found these cool jars at a garage sale today. Pretty cool. They were on a shelf, not for sale, but that may have been a ploy to get more money for them. lol.
I tried to size them up with Belle's cheech and chong jar collection.
I've seen lots of canning jars, how old are these ones? I do not remember ever seeing any before.


 

Attachments

hammer21

hammer21

Well-Known Member
gladstoned said:
I found these cool jars at a garage sale today. Pretty cool. They were on a shelf, not for sale, but that may have been a ploy to get more money for them. lol.
I tried to size them up with Belle's cheech and chong jar collection.
I've seen lots of canning jars, how old are these ones? I do not remember ever seeing any before.


Click to expand...
{~.~} HOW TO DATE BALL FRUIT JARS! {~.~}


By: Hammer21




Here is a way to date your Ball jars fairly closely by looking only at how the Ball name is embossed on the jar.




Before we get into the Ball jars, here's just a note concerning "Pontil Marks". I see a lot of jars listed on ebay incorrectly with pontil marks. NO Ball jars were EVER made that had pontil marks. NO 1858 jars were ever made that had pontil marks. The approximately 1" circular mark seen on the bases of some early Ball jars indicates machine manufacture and is a VALVE mark, which let air trapped between the mould and jar to escape during production. There are only a FEW very early fruit jars which have pontil marks, and these have an applied lip of some kind. There was no need on any of the screw lid type jars for attaching a punty rod to the base of the jar (which creates the pontil mark) because the thread area and lip was created in the mould when the jars were made. (not applied in any way) That being said, let's move on to specifically Ball jars.




Ball first started making jars in 1885 in Buffalo, New York. These jars had the intertwined initials of BBGMCo embossed on them which stood for the Ball Brothers Glass Manufacturing Company. There are three basic types known and these are called the "Buffalo" jars. (1885-1886)




Shortly after their move to Muncie and new plant startup in 1888, Ball was making Mason's Patent Nov. 30th 1858 jars, many from acquired moulds. Most of these jars were regular shoulder seal type jars, but they also made 1858 jars with the "Improved" type finish that took a glass lid and zinc band. The beautifully embossed "Christmas Mason" jars were produced right around 1890. About 1892 and probably even earlier, Ball began adding their name to some of the 1858 type jars, some on front and others on the back in all block letters. There are several different block lettered jars known; ie just BALL, THE BALL and THE BALL JAR. Then about 1893 they began using a script style Ball, sometimes undercored and sometimes not. These jars all have ground lips. (1888-1898)




About 1895, Ball began using machines (these jars have smooth lips) and began to phase out the old blowing methods. This transition took several years. The machine made jars exhibited a new script style which was never seen on any of their handmade jars. The script style was that of a cursive Ball with an extra loop at the end, known as "3-L" Ball jars. They also continued to make the MASON'S PATENT NOV 30th 1858 jars (machine made smooth lipped varieties) up into the early 1900's. The very first machine made Ball jar is not positively known, but most likely was either a Balll STANDARD or a Balll IMPROVED MASON. This script style was used up until about 1910. Ball produced many jars with this script style, the Balll MASON jars and ones with just Balll and no other embossing appeared right about the turn of the century. (3-L jars c1896-1910)




Right about 1910, Ball began phasing out the familiar "shoulder seal" type jars (the cap screws right down onto the shoulder) and went to a new style called a "bead seal". (the cap screwed down onto a bead of glass at the neck)




Also about 1910, the loop was omitted from the script style. These jars are called "2-L" jars. The "a" in Ball always started with an ascender, and this is called a "dropped a". This script style was used for about 13 years on most of their jars. Sometimes, these are also seen with the underscore disconnected from the word Ball. (2-L "dropped a" jars c1910-1923)




c1913-1914 Ball PERFECT MASON jars began appearing with the PERFECT offset to the right of the word MASON. These are not "error embossing jars" as some think. These are mainly reworked old Ball MASON moulds, where PERFECT was added to them when they changed over to the new bead seal type of jars. These are the first of the famous Ball PERFECT MASON jars, excluding the BOYD/BALL reworked moulds which have all the lettering in block letters. The embossing was centered starting in about 1915.




In 1915, the Ball IDEAL was introduced into the line. Ball had previously made the wire bail type Ball SURE SEAL since the early 1900's. Early SURE SEAL jars were regular size mouthed jars like the Ball IDEAL jars. Later SURE SEAL jars are widemouth type, along with the SANITARY SURE SEAL series. There are 22 ounce Ball SURE SEAL jars which take a special smaller size Lightning type lid.




About 1923, Ball eliminated the "dropped a" and the underscore altogether and used this style for about 10 more years. (no underscore 1923-1933)




In the early 30's they added the underscore back to the name, sometimes connected, sometimes not. But these jars DO NOT have the "dropped a" as seen with the earlier jars. (added underscore 1933-1937)




Ball added gripper ribs to their jars about 1933-1934 after the acquisition of the Brockway SUR-GRIP patent. (the vertical ribs on the side which enabled better handling)




Ball discontinued the use of their famous "Ball blue" glass in 1937. They had produced and controlled this color since the late 1890's, and it was caused by the minerals in the sand they used in their glass batch (which came from the shores of Lake Michigan) and also the amount of oxygen used in the furnaces to melt the glass.




The "rounded-square" shape was adopted in 1942 as a way to save glass. (the war board required all glass manufacturers to adopt this shape because they determined that it was the most efficient shape to contain a volume)




English measurements (ounces and cups) on the side started about 1956. Ball was the first fruit jar manufacturer to do this.




The logo changed from "open B" to "closed B" (in the closed B style, the bottom of the rounded stroke of the B touches the upstroke) about 1960.




Metric measurements on the side started about 1974.




The Trademark Registered mark (R) was added to the Ball name in 1975.




It is to be noted that there are some Ball jars known that do not fit within this chronology. Between 1900 and 1930, Ball bought out several different glass companies and in many cases, altered these companies old moulds by either simply adding the Ball name or reworking the other company's name to where it looked like Ball. These script styles vary from one company to another and are usually not considered as changes in the Ball name, but merely reworked moulds. Good examples of that are found within the Root/Ball jars, the Port/Ball jars, the Boyd/Ball jars, the Drey/Ball jars and the Pine/Ball jars. Also, it is sometimes impossible to date Ball jars real accurately simply because of the overlap of script styles and different machines they used during the same time frame. And sometimes we can get pretty specific concerning when a certain jar was produced. Ball collectors can generally narrow a range down a bit more by the machine a particular jar was produced on. All dates are to be considered approximate, but close, based on known facts and factors.




I am frequently asked questions regarding reproductions of Ball jars. There are not many. Amber quart BBGMCo jars were hand made by Ball for release in 1976 and are clearly marked on their base. The little 1/2 pint blue Ball PERFECT MASON jars were reproduced about 1990. They are not a true Ball blue color, generally lighter. All of the examples I have seen have either a 3 or an odd shaped 9 on their base. There are three ways to differentiate these from authentic jars though. On the authentic blue 1/2 pint Ball PERFECT MASON, the seams in the thread area will line up straight up and down with the seams in the side of the jar. On the reproductions, these seams will be offset from one another right at the neck. On the authentic ones, there will be a circular rough looking scar on the base indicative of manufacture on the Owen's machine. The reproductions do not have this scar. And the repros are "usually" just a wee bit taller than the originals, but height is not always a good indicator.

i slept in a holiday inn express last night.............
 
abe supercro

abe supercro

Well-Known Member
can we see a pic of the jar base. got 3 clear ones in February (fro antique shop) but they have concentric circles, looks newer n maybe taller but v. similar. Glood find! nice research Hammer
 
gladstoned

gladstoned

Well-Known Member
I took a few more pics. I'll post them and go take pics of the base. There was a ton of antique shit at this garage sale, you guys are gonna have me posting pics from the casino early in the am. lmao.




 

Attachments

abe supercro

abe supercro

Well-Known Member
eheh, yeah they be lookin old them jaars. also pondered if rubba jar gasket exists that properly werk w this jar. glass on glass not greatest seal, gasket posse
 
TheMan13

TheMan13

Well-Known Member
Having been playing with the 62% Boveda Humidipaks two way humidity control in my jars for a few, I'm looking forward to a further investment into a set of C Vaults.

[video=youtube;41iAQyAwNcU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41iAQyAwNcU[/video]

 
Lionden

Lionden

Well-Known Member
Those c-vaults look badass you can even turn that crappy Mexican into better smoke hahaha do people still even smoke that crap?
 
Reklaw

Reklaw

Active Member
gladstoned said:
I found these cool jars at a garage sale today. Pretty cool. They were on a shelf, not for sale, but that may have been a ploy to get more money for them. lol.
I tried to size them up with Belle's cheech and chong jar collection.
I've seen lots of canning jars, how old are these ones? I do not remember ever seeing any before.


Click to expand...

nice jars.. but wass up with that KFC in the back.. i got the munchies lol
 
Firstoffallen

Firstoffallen

Active Member
Lionden said:
Those c-vaults look badass you can even turn that crappy Mexican into better smoke hahaha do people still even smoke that crap?
Click to expand...
Yes! actually i had this same discussion with a co worker and hea says despite all the sticky herb there are still the market for the super cheap smoke and you get what u pay for. my older sister that lives back home STILL SMOKES that CRAP despite her own brother with access to all the goods
 
bass1014

bass1014

Well-Known Member
you sure your not a mason jar curator..lol you have more info on mason jars then most have on growin .. lmao sticky this one lol... great info..



hammer21 said:
{~.~} HOW TO DATE BALL FRUIT JARS! {~.~}


By: Hammer21




Here is a way to date your Ball jars fairly closely by looking only at how the Ball name is embossed on the jar.




Before we get into the Ball jars, here's just a note concerning "Pontil Marks". I see a lot of jars listed on ebay incorrectly with pontil marks. NO Ball jars were EVER made that had pontil marks. NO 1858 jars were ever made that had pontil marks. The approximately 1" circular mark seen on the bases of some early Ball jars indicates machine manufacture and is a VALVE mark, which let air trapped between the mould and jar to escape during production. There are only a FEW very early fruit jars which have pontil marks, and these have an applied lip of some kind. There was no need on any of the screw lid type jars for attaching a punty rod to the base of the jar (which creates the pontil mark) because the thread area and lip was created in the mould when the jars were made. (not applied in any way) That being said, let's move on to specifically Ball jars.




Ball first started making jars in 1885 in Buffalo, New York. These jars had the intertwined initials of BBGMCo embossed on them which stood for the Ball Brothers Glass Manufacturing Company. There are three basic types known and these are called the "Buffalo" jars. (1885-1886)




Shortly after their move to Muncie and new plant startup in 1888, Ball was making Mason's Patent Nov. 30th 1858 jars, many from acquired moulds. Most of these jars were regular shoulder seal type jars, but they also made 1858 jars with the "Improved" type finish that took a glass lid and zinc band. The beautifully embossed "Christmas Mason" jars were produced right around 1890. About 1892 and probably even earlier, Ball began adding their name to some of the 1858 type jars, some on front and others on the back in all block letters. There are several different block lettered jars known; ie just BALL, THE BALL and THE BALL JAR. Then about 1893 they began using a script style Ball, sometimes undercored and sometimes not. These jars all have ground lips. (1888-1898)




About 1895, Ball began using machines (these jars have smooth lips) and began to phase out the old blowing methods. This transition took several years. The machine made jars exhibited a new script style which was never seen on any of their handmade jars. The script style was that of a cursive Ball with an extra loop at the end, known as "3-L" Ball jars. They also continued to make the MASON'S PATENT NOV 30th 1858 jars (machine made smooth lipped varieties) up into the early 1900's. The very first machine made Ball jar is not positively known, but most likely was either a Balll STANDARD or a Balll IMPROVED MASON. This script style was used up until about 1910. Ball produced many jars with this script style, the Balll MASON jars and ones with just Balll and no other embossing appeared right about the turn of the century. (3-L jars c1896-1910)




Right about 1910, Ball began phasing out the familiar "shoulder seal" type jars (the cap screws right down onto the shoulder) and went to a new style called a "bead seal". (the cap screwed down onto a bead of glass at the neck)




Also about 1910, the loop was omitted from the script style. These jars are called "2-L" jars. The "a" in Ball always started with an ascender, and this is called a "dropped a". This script style was used for about 13 years on most of their jars. Sometimes, these are also seen with the underscore disconnected from the word Ball. (2-L "dropped a" jars c1910-1923)




c1913-1914 Ball PERFECT MASON jars began appearing with the PERFECT offset to the right of the word MASON. These are not "error embossing jars" as some think. These are mainly reworked old Ball MASON moulds, where PERFECT was added to them when they changed over to the new bead seal type of jars. These are the first of the famous Ball PERFECT MASON jars, excluding the BOYD/BALL reworked moulds which have all the lettering in block letters. The embossing was centered starting in about 1915.




In 1915, the Ball IDEAL was introduced into the line. Ball had previously made the wire bail type Ball SURE SEAL since the early 1900's. Early SURE SEAL jars were regular size mouthed jars like the Ball IDEAL jars. Later SURE SEAL jars are widemouth type, along with the SANITARY SURE SEAL series. There are 22 ounce Ball SURE SEAL jars which take a special smaller size Lightning type lid.




About 1923, Ball eliminated the "dropped a" and the underscore altogether and used this style for about 10 more years. (no underscore 1923-1933)




In the early 30's they added the underscore back to the name, sometimes connected, sometimes not. But these jars DO NOT have the "dropped a" as seen with the earlier jars. (added underscore 1933-1937)




Ball added gripper ribs to their jars about 1933-1934 after the acquisition of the Brockway SUR-GRIP patent. (the vertical ribs on the side which enabled better handling)




Ball discontinued the use of their famous "Ball blue" glass in 1937. They had produced and controlled this color since the late 1890's, and it was caused by the minerals in the sand they used in their glass batch (which came from the shores of Lake Michigan) and also the amount of oxygen used in the furnaces to melt the glass.




The "rounded-square" shape was adopted in 1942 as a way to save glass. (the war board required all glass manufacturers to adopt this shape because they determined that it was the most efficient shape to contain a volume)




English measurements (ounces and cups) on the side started about 1956. Ball was the first fruit jar manufacturer to do this.




The logo changed from "open B" to "closed B" (in the closed B style, the bottom of the rounded stroke of the B touches the upstroke) about 1960.




Metric measurements on the side started about 1974.




The Trademark Registered mark (R) was added to the Ball name in 1975.




It is to be noted that there are some Ball jars known that do not fit within this chronology. Between 1900 and 1930, Ball bought out several different glass companies and in many cases, altered these companies old moulds by either simply adding the Ball name or reworking the other company's name to where it looked like Ball. These script styles vary from one company to another and are usually not considered as changes in the Ball name, but merely reworked moulds. Good examples of that are found within the Root/Ball jars, the Port/Ball jars, the Boyd/Ball jars, the Drey/Ball jars and the Pine/Ball jars. Also, it is sometimes impossible to date Ball jars real accurately simply because of the overlap of script styles and different machines they used during the same time frame. And sometimes we can get pretty specific concerning when a certain jar was produced. Ball collectors can generally narrow a range down a bit more by the machine a particular jar was produced on. All dates are to be considered approximate, but close, based on known facts and factors.




I am frequently asked questions regarding reproductions of Ball jars. There are not many. Amber quart BBGMCo jars were hand made by Ball for release in 1976 and are clearly marked on their base. The little 1/2 pint blue Ball PERFECT MASON jars were reproduced about 1990. They are not a true Ball blue color, generally lighter. All of the examples I have seen have either a 3 or an odd shaped 9 on their base. There are three ways to differentiate these from authentic jars though. On the authentic blue 1/2 pint Ball PERFECT MASON, the seams in the thread area will line up straight up and down with the seams in the side of the jar. On the reproductions, these seams will be offset from one another right at the neck. On the authentic ones, there will be a circular rough looking scar on the base indicative of manufacture on the Owen's machine. The reproductions do not have this scar. And the repros are "usually" just a wee bit taller than the originals, but height is not always a good indicator.

i slept in a holiday inn express last night.............
Click to expand...
 
abe supercro

abe supercro

Well-Known Member
Reklaw said:
nice jars.. but wass up with that KFC in the back.. i got the munchies lol
Click to expand...
ah detail man, wondering the same thing... saw the colonel sanders peepin out thru a plastic bag, started thinking about chicken, mashed taters n gravy.:joint::cool:

/Now tapered sandblasted glass on glass is a primo fit for a bong slide tho,
 
gladstoned

gladstoned

Well-Known Member
reg recipe and xtra krispy mixed bucket with bones, btw. Mashed tators, cole slaw, biscuits. That is the absolute closest thing the UP has to soul food. lmao.
every few weeks we need the kfc fix. until the casino gig cashes out and I can open a popeyes or happys on us2.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top