the forum cut itself is an s1 so the phenotype variations are going to be such a bitch you would have to fill a whole 10 light room / acre of land up with one gallon pots and flower foot tall test patches to find a single keeper. finding a keeper out of a forum s1 has been such a task. i have found one so far that i have kept and ive been testing a whole tray of seedlings each run for two years now
Sincity Seeds "SinMint"
- Thread starter Thundercat
- Start date
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
Well I guess all I can hope for is the best since I don't have many seeds to play with. I'm not sure what designation the Sinmints have (ie. f1,f2 etc.), thats one of the things I hope to find out from Sincity once I get in touch with them. I joined their forum the other day and have been waiting ever since for the admin to activate my account. I've always wanted to do a bit of breeding some day, but I want to do it right so I haven't even began to toy with it. I don't have the space right now to do a large seed run, and I would need to take clones from each seed to save each pheno till they were all done. My current veg room is very limited on size, and with my current clones and mothers use it well. Hopefully I'll be able to buy my first house within the next 3 years at this point and then, hehe then I'll finish my rooms the way I want!!
Clankie
Well-Known Member
i talked with them for a bit on saturday about their selection process, i think they are legit. these aren't selfed beans, like a lot of whats going around, they were specifically created to find good, even enhanced, gsc representations. there will of course be other phenos, but thats why you have a pack, right?
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
Thats what I was hoping to hear Clankie. I expect to get phenos and have no problem with that, but its nice to hear there is some chance at a good one, not a complete shot in the dark. I didn't actually get them in water yet to germ them, that should be this evening, then I'll get this ball rolling.
HungryMan420
Well-Known Member
I will get pics up for you tomarrow as far as the Phenos i have i have 6 Females out of 10 3 of witch look almost identicle the othe 3 are Completly diffrent 2 Smells of High Pitched Andys Mints and Master Kush the Other Smells Like Chocolate Kush and the other 3 have a weird smell to them 1 smells like Bell Pepers? 2 smell a bit Fruityer i kept 1 male for breeding it is a Stud as well smells of Andymints and Chocolate and has Beautiful Branching and Node Spacing leaning more on the Sativa Hybrid. But any thing that has been crossed to the BluePower will be BOMB the BP is FIRE one of my favs for sure the TruePowerOG is 1st in my list now. but yea ill have those pics for you Thunder!
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
Awesome man, I love what your tellin me, can't wait to see the pics for sure. I'm literally getting ready to pop these beans in some water right now! I'm also glad to see you really like the TruepowerOg cus I got that too 
. I'm prolly not gonna be popping any of those for a bit though.
. I'm prolly not gonna be popping any of those for a bit though.
whodatnation
Well-Known Member
Hey hey partner, I'll keep you posted on the one I pop.
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a plan stan!
My 3 Sinmints are in warm water hopefully will be cracked by tomorrow and ready to go in some peat pellets!
My 3 Sinmints are in warm water hopefully will be cracked by tomorrow and ready to go in some peat pellets!
you do know when you self a strain you have the best chance of finding that same phenotype in the s1 or s2 even s3's . if you used regular male instead of reversed of the same exact strain you get the exact same phenotypes as a selfed polination you just get males instead of all females. and you should reverse males to find the best one for breeding anyways... so why not just select the best females and reverse those phenotypes ?
Kite High
Well-Known Member
Selfing and crosses with fem pollen is the only breeding I do...Keeps variations down
If you are so inclined
ATTENTION!!! ALWAYS ORDER SEPARATELY FROM TWO DIFFERENT SOURCES!!! YOU HAVE BEEN NOTIFIED
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.
This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones
At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.
It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.
http://planetganja.net/Ebooks/Marijuana%20Botany.pdf
It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.
Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.
Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: 0.5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.
Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.
Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.
After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.
So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.
A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.
Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.
It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.
When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.
When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.
A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.
Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.
This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.
If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.
Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.
Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.
About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
.preparation of silver thiosulfate (sts) solution
silver thiosulfate (sts) is commonly used to block the action of ethylene in plant cell cultures. Ethylene is a hormone that is present in the gaseous state. Ethylene increases during senescence and ripening, and has been shown to increase in plant cell cultures due to wounding or the presence of auxins. Silver nitrate may be used alone to block the action of ethylene but it is not transported as well as sts thus is seldom used alone.
Prepare a 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate (sts) stock solution by dissolving 1.58 g of sodium thiosulfate (product no. S 620) into 100 ml of water. Prepare a 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution by dissolving 1.7 g of silver nitrate (product no. S 169) into 100 ml of water. Store the stock solution in the dark until needed to prepare the sts.
The sts solution is prepared with a molar ratio between silver and thiosulfate of 1:4, respectively. Nearly all of the silver present in the solution is in the form of [ag (s2o3)2]3-, the active complex for ethylene effect inhibition.
Prepare a 0.02 m sts by slowly pouring 20 ml of 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution into 80 ml of 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate stock solution. The sts can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. However, preparation of the sts just prior to use is recommended.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
A SIMPLE SAFE AND INEXPENSIVE FEMMING METHOD
LINKS TO THE CHEMICALS:
sodium thiosulfate
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124109-REG/Photographers_Formulary_10_1370_1LB_Sodium_Thiosulfate_Anhydrous.html
Silver Nitrate
http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Silver-Nitrate-10g-P6503.aspx
ATTENTION!!! ALWAYS ORDER SEPARATELY FROM TWO DIFFERENT SOURCES!!! YOU HAVE BEEN NOTIFIED
If you are so inclined
ATTENTION!!! ALWAYS ORDER SEPARATELY FROM TWO DIFFERENT SOURCES!!! YOU HAVE BEEN NOTIFIED
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.
This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones
At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.
It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.
http://planetganja.net/Ebooks/Marijuana%20Botany.pdf
It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.
Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.
Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: 0.5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.
Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.
Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.
After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.
So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.
A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.
Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.
It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.
When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.
When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.
A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.
Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.
This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.
If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.
Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.
Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.
About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
.preparation of silver thiosulfate (sts) solution
silver thiosulfate (sts) is commonly used to block the action of ethylene in plant cell cultures. Ethylene is a hormone that is present in the gaseous state. Ethylene increases during senescence and ripening, and has been shown to increase in plant cell cultures due to wounding or the presence of auxins. Silver nitrate may be used alone to block the action of ethylene but it is not transported as well as sts thus is seldom used alone.
Prepare a 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate (sts) stock solution by dissolving 1.58 g of sodium thiosulfate (product no. S 620) into 100 ml of water. Prepare a 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution by dissolving 1.7 g of silver nitrate (product no. S 169) into 100 ml of water. Store the stock solution in the dark until needed to prepare the sts.
The sts solution is prepared with a molar ratio between silver and thiosulfate of 1:4, respectively. Nearly all of the silver present in the solution is in the form of [ag (s2o3)2]3-, the active complex for ethylene effect inhibition.
Prepare a 0.02 m sts by slowly pouring 20 ml of 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution into 80 ml of 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate stock solution. The sts can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. However, preparation of the sts just prior to use is recommended.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
A SIMPLE SAFE AND INEXPENSIVE FEMMING METHOD
LINKS TO THE CHEMICALS:
sodium thiosulfate
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124109-REG/Photographers_Formulary_10_1370_1LB_Sodium_Thiosulfate_Anhydrous.html
Silver Nitrate
http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Silver-Nitrate-10g-P6503.aspx
ATTENTION!!! ALWAYS ORDER SEPARATELY FROM TWO DIFFERENT SOURCES!!! YOU HAVE BEEN NOTIFIED
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
Great info there Kite thanks. This is something I've been considering as I've been collecting better genetics. I also know a guy who sells high grade CS solution he makes.
Kite High
Well-Known Member
STS is simpler, less spraying and more dependable.
Malacath
Well-Known Member
He'll yeah dude good luck with your grow!!l...I got some bomb ass strains that I know exactly how their gunna turn out, but the surprise of growing something for the first time and experimenting and seeing what you get is exciting. I'm currently growing 4 sensi seeds Hindu Kush regulars and if I get some males I'm going to to some experiments and breed with it. I'm thinking of pollinating my Rockstar OG kush cut and the GSC at a separate location designated for breeding And doing further experiments with the offspring and the offspring off the offspring. I've also had this bottle of Tiresias mist for a couple months and I'm also planning on making some GSC fem seeds. I'll definitely be giving these away to lots of peeps to try out as long as they come through with a cutting.... Oh and I forgot to take a pic of my GSC today for ya they are like 4 weeks in.....
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
That sounds awesome Malacath should be some dank phenos that come out of some crosses like those. My main grow is growing great right now actually, so we'll hope this little side project does too!
I don't doubt you at all Kite, was just commenting about the CS cus I thought of it.
I don't doubt you at all Kite, was just commenting about the CS cus I thought of it.
~Dankster~420
Well-Known Member
Hey bro.. don't know if you know it or not, I'm sure you do, blue power is in fact half (sour dubble x master kush) aka power...
Here's a site of sommeone else doing/or has already tested the strain your running. http://forum.seeddepot.nl/archive/
index.php/t-2191.html
I believe there's also a few others running/testing Sinmint aswell.
Again, didn't know if you had seen this, just thought I would provide you with the info bro..
Thundercat
Well-Known Member
I appreciate the info man. I had found a test journal on greenpassion but there wasn't really any info about them, just photo updates which I couldn't see without joining. I had also come across he journal you linked, but kinda same deal not really much said about the plant, and I couldn't see the pics. This is one reason I want to get in touch with Sincity I think I could do a great job reviewing/testing genetics. I feel I run a nice journal, and have enough experience under my belt too. I'm in the midwest/eastcoast and we don't get alot of the west coast strains very often either so I think it would be fun to spread the love.
~Dankster~420
Well-Known Member
I to am on the eastcoast myself! And your right on about not getting a lot of "westcoast" strains out this/our way!! I have been breeding/crossing strains for a good while now, and helped/watched my Dad do a ton of it!! And I am getting ready to do a strain, to hopefully bring it back from near extinction!! I would name the strain, but I know I would have a inbox FULL asking if I would sale/trade etc! Lol..
so I hope that when I do run this particular strain, I can infact bring it back, and I WILL make sure that everyone has it in there collection!! Good luck with your though bro.. I will keep an eye on it.. Your friend,Dank...
Malacath
Well-Known Member
Just took some pics of the GSC Bay Area Cut, these pics are from the right side of my room.
sorry about the pics, i wanted to take em when the lights start to come on but i spaced it....stonerrrr. the GSC is not a huge stretcher like the OG. she has wider purple leaves that are just super thick and reach for the lights.
sorry about the pics, i wanted to take em when the lights start to come on but i spaced it....stonerrrr. the GSC is not a huge stretcher like the OG. she has wider purple leaves that are just super thick and reach for the lights.
~Dankster~420
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I like the GSC myself. But I would rather grow ATF myself! Lol..
But yours is looking good bro, keep up the good work!!
But yours is looking good bro, keep up the good work!!