How si this spectrum?

FranJan

Well-Known Member
Hey Slip I was just checking out Fero's latest after seeing a post of yours elsewhere. Looks like a solid choice. Hope you plan on doing a review or journal with that. It's usually interesting to hear from people who switch from HPS to LED, especially 600+ watt HPS growers. Hopefully it will be worth it for you. Best of Luck and Happy Growing Slip!
 

Slipon

Well-Known Member
Hey Slip I was just checking out Fero's latest after seeing a post of yours elsewhere. Looks like a solid choice. Hope you plan on doing a review or journal with that. It's usually interesting to hear from people who switch from HPS to LED, especially 600+ watt HPS growers. Hopefully it will be worth it for you. Best of Luck and Happy Growing Slip!

thanks a lot, and sure I will make some kind of Journal/thread of my fist grow with it, Im also quite curious to see how the technology work and how well it will preform

wanted a LED light from the start, but you know money and every thing, now it got possible for me to actually spend the money needed to get a decent quality fixture

as my research I did in the start told me not to go for them, Etc cheap Chinese UFOs on Ebay,

it will replace my 600W HPS for flowering, since I have a nice T5HO fixture I plan to continue to use for Veg. I know this fixture won't reach a 600W HPS but if it just come close to a 400W Im happy as it will suite my needs
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
+1 for some 12000-14000Ks. Depending on their output they should cover your 435nm area and maybe your 450-460 area. Be wary of WWs since their output is usually much lower than other colors/whites. They're great and all but need to be more carefully selected otherwise their output will not be the same as your CWs or blues, rendering them kind of useless. I know cause I've been there.
-12000-14000 K whites ? ....If they really do have that temp ,in fact they should be considered as blues ...
http://www.3drender.com/glossary/colortemp.htm

-WW indeed do have a low lumen output ...
Photometrically ,they are of lower output of same type / tech CWs or NWs ....
Not much green light in them to appear as " bright white light " to our vision brain center ..
Plenty of their output power is at reds (when high CRI WW ) or at yellow/ambers (when low CRI WW ) ..
Plus the fact that emmit more FR/NIR than rest of whites ...Unvisible light to us ...Less lumens ....

As for actual light radiometric power .....When talking for thin film type of leds ...
No ,they do not differ from rest of white leds ...
In "volume emission die " type of leds ,there's a slight difference ....

No ,they are not useless for that reason ...."Useless " can be when in low numbers ..And of the "wrong " type ,at same time ...
You see ,low CRI WWs ,utilise a blue die and some kind of a broadpeak yellow phosphor ....
If of volume emission type ,they do output lower radiometric light power than CW or NW ....
And mostly at yellow/amber ....Neither much blues or reds ....
If used in great numbers ,they start to show great efficiency in plant cultivation,though ....

Now ...If of High CRI (>90 ) ,then warm whites utilise mostly a red phosphor (>630 nm peak ,up to 660nm ) ,along with a green one ...And a blue die .... ( RGB .... )
If of thin film type ,also ....
Then ,those ww leds ,emmit mostly at ambers/reds/deep reds /FR at high radiometric output,as CW or NW ...

Lower still than monochromatic red leds ,but covering all red band ...Not just 'peaky' parts of it ...
And offering blue ,at "sensible " percentage / ratio with reds ,at same time ......

....Still of lower lumen output than of rest white leds ...(We can not 'sense' red wls ,as bright as we can with green wls...)
Photometric wise ,they can not exist bright WW leds(always related/compared to same tech CW & NW ...) ..
The 'warmer' they get ,the 'dimmer' they 'appear' ...

But ,they are almost as if specially made to cultivate plants ,if used even alone /solely to grow ....

More than 50-60% at red band ...~3-5% FR .....~4-5% blue (like hps have ...)....Rest is green/yellow /amber .....
..I say ,that's almost there for me .....
Maybe even a boost at 645-665 nm area will do miracles .....
;-)


And be careful of PetFlora's advice because if you don't get the right type if white diodes you'll end up with a panel that will stretch the shit out of your plants. Actually I'm of the opinion that NWs should be omitted. Way too much green, (no Pet you don't need green to grow marijuana), and their peaks are usually less than stellar. But that's just my 2 cents. Oh and if you don't go with WWs you may want to get some 730nm or some kind of FR in there to speed things along in flowering.
I totally agree ....Except the "you don't need green to grow marijuana" part ..
I trust otherwise ...

Not much ...But you need some ...A tad ...
To bridge the 5% ...~65% " gap " between blue & red ....
Bridge it into a smooth curve or line ....
Not much to care for this detail
...Just bridge the "power gap" of 'blue' to 'red' ,smoothly ... ...
As same smoothly goes the 'absorbance' line ,there ..... ;-P


P.S. :

I'm not after your posts or you ...
It's just that ,you oftenly ,have plenty of worthy / interesting stuff ,posted ....
Keep up the good postings ,there ..
 

trueg115

Well-Known Member
Im glad to see all the discussion and input, I certainly am learning a lot of needed info.

If it mean snything, the LED's that will be used are epistar, I am asking the manufacturer today if they have the spectral data of each LED output as to see what these are running.
 

Slipon

Well-Known Member
lol your welcome ;)

and as fare that I can understand it is not only if it have 1W or 3W LEDs in them, its also the power it run with that determent the power output of the LED, some/most don't run on max as fare as I understand (2-2,8W) to make em last longer I have read, some run on 500mA and some on 700mA or sum thing (Im NOT a electrician geek, used to skip classes and smoke joints by the lake side with a few guys back when I had a year of "industry" school before I became a smithy, no logic what so ever, like the metal work and engine work much more :D)

never the less, as I understand it its also about lenses on the LEDs and the angle of em 30/60/90/120 degrees (some even run em with out as they claim it block out some light but I reccon they keep em close then and only grow Scrog style or sum thing

so when you do your research you also want to look for that, and actual Watt draw, so its not so simple ..

about the Epistar, I believe its just a standard LED but its made in the US and is working, not like the Chinese once who claim to be Epistar or similar copy crap,

also believe you can get even better quality once, but then we are out in some special and pretty expensive LED fixtures or DIY, some of them I have seen is custom build some even have 5W LEDs in em, so in the end you also have to ask yourself how much you want to spend and how much you really need, I did`t want to go and blow to much money to begin with if they should let me down, its easy to upgrade later on and buy one more if needed, when you also have had some experience and maybe done a lot more research, on the other hand I wanted some quality and some size wise so its actually able to grow a few plants so in the end my choice was the 120X3W from Fero

also with the speed they develop, when I began to look at em a year ago it was mostly 1W out there, I believe to remember, and some skeptic about the 3W, now 3W is what is working and some even began with 5W and lens technology have also come a long way

and we have`t even begon to talk light spectrum and the right mix of em, and if its necessary to mix "true" white in 2700K/400K/6500K aso and green and the new once also have fare and ultra Red in em, fist once was like 1W 500mA in a 2-3 spectrum with no lenses now you get them in 3-5W with 700mA in 7-8 spectrums, so they have come a long way since the fist once who did`t reach the results weed growers was looking for, but I also believe its down to expectations, like every other light it also have down sides, and I believe its light cover, Fluorescent is light penetrations and HIDs is heat IMO
 

Slipon

Well-Known Member
the skinny ? please explain English is not my fist languages

but I made a lot of research and what I found is that many cheap fixtures is produced in China and don't quite keep what they promise to do, watt wise and spectrum wise plus that the quality is`t always the best

a good rule in life, you get what you pay for and if your not careful you pay to much, so do your research and use the money needed, it sucks to safe a buck just to discover your wasted them all on some kids toy from china
 

FranJan

Well-Known Member
-12000-14000 K whites ? ....If they really do have that temp ,in fact they should be considered as blues ...
http://www.3drender.com/glossary/colortemp.htm

-WW indeed do have a low lumen output ...
Photometrically ,they are of lower output of same type / tech CWs or NWs ....
Not much green light in them to appear as " bright white light " to our vision brain center ..
Plenty of their output power is at reds (when high CRI WW ) or at yellow/ambers (when low CRI WW ) ..
Plus the fact that emmit more FR/NIR than rest of whites ...Unvisible light to us ...Less lumens ....

As for actual light radiometric power .....When talking for thin film type of leds ...
No ,they do not differ from rest of white leds ...
In "volume emission die " type of leds ,there's a slight difference ....

No ,they are not useless for that reason ...."Useless " can be when in low numbers ..And of the "wrong " type ,at same time ...
You see ,low CRI WWs ,utilise a blue die and some kind of a broadpeak yellow phosphor ....
If of volume emission type ,they do output lower radiometric light power than CW or NW ....
And mostly at yellow/amber ....Neither much blues or reds ....
If used in great numbers ,they start to show great efficiency in plant cultivation,though ....

Now ...If of High CRI (>90 ) ,then warm whites utilise mostly a red phosphor (>630 nm peak ,up to 660nm ) ,along with a green one ...And a blue die .... ( RGB .... )
If of thin film type ,also ....
Then ,those ww leds ,emmit mostly at ambers/reds/deep reds /FR at high radiometric output,as CW or NW ...

Lower still than monochromatic red leds ,but covering all red band ...Not just 'peaky' parts of it ...
And offering blue ,at "sensible " percentage / ratio with reds ,at same time ......

....Still of lower lumen output than of rest white leds ...(We can not 'sense' red wls ,as bright as we can with green wls...)
Photometric wise ,they can not exist bright WW leds(always related/compared to same tech CW & NW ...) ..
The 'warmer' they get ,the 'dimmer' they 'appear' ...

But ,they are almost as if specially made to cultivate plants ,if used even alone /solely to grow ....

More than 50-60% at red band ...~3-5% FR .....~4-5% blue (like hps have ...)....Rest is green/yellow /amber .....
..I say ,that's almost there for me .....
Maybe even a boost at 645-665 nm area will do miracles .....
;-)




I totally agree ....Except the "you don't need green to grow marijuana" part ..
I trust otherwise ...

Not much ...But you need some ...A tad ...
To bridge the 5% ...~65% " gap " between blue & red ....
Bridge it into a smooth curve or line ....
Not much to care for this detail
...Just bridge the "power gap" of 'blue' to 'red' ,smoothly ... ...
As same smoothly goes the 'absorbance' line ,there ..... ;-P


P.S. :

I'm not after your posts or you ...
It's just that ,you oftenly ,have plenty of worthy / interesting stuff ,posted ....
Keep up the good postings ,there ..
Thank you SDS and please don't feel I'm ignoring your posts, it's just that your replies can take a lot of energy and time to digest properly and as I get older I find I have less of both. I was reading one of your posts and a metaphor came to me that you're a chef and I'm a food lover and I sit in your restaurant and some one gives me the menu and while I'm looking at the daily specials you open the kitchen door and throw a cookbook at my head. LOL So needless to say, as much as I love your cooking, I can't eat at your restaurant everyday. It's too damn tiring :). And you'll have to excuse my atrocious use of technical jargon, in the real world I speak a very slang filled dialect and can be lazy when I'm trying to get a more technical points across. Sometimes I type a sentence 5 or 6 times and still edit it cause I feel I'm not getting across my idea across properly. But I will be "digesting" your words soon.

Best of Luck SDS. Oh and all those 10,000K- 20,000K "white" LED lights are considered white because of where they fall on the 1931 CIE chromaticity diagram and are actually a great example of how LED companies manipulate old tired standards and why we need new measurement standards for LEDs. We know they're blue. Still I think there's definitely a lot of potential with these diodes.
 

trueg115

Well-Known Member
I have decided to go with something a little different, I am going all white with 4x 6500k, 4x 6000k and 4x 2700k for the supplementation to see how this works for full cycle. Will keep you guys updated! Someones gotta test it
 

Chronikool

Well-Known Member
I have decided to go with something a little different, I am going all white with 4x 6500k, 4x 6000k and 4x 2700k for the supplementation to see how this works for full cycle. Will keep you guys updated! Someones gotta test it
Sweet bruv....thats the spectrum i am using in my current grow....good to see someone else is on to it. :)
 

BeastGrow

Well-Known Member
You'd probably be better off just buying a LED light preassembled. Just remember to have lots of coverage of your plants.. LED's won't penetrate teh canopy as well as HPS so you need to hit the plant from more angles to achieve good results.
 

Galvatron

Well-Known Member
just wanted to add a note about the 12000k white. i just got 2 apollo 10's delivered to me yesterday and i have one of those bulbs in my configuration. the light leans very close to blue on mine. overall my spectrum leans more towards red then the ones suggested here.

if you have a certain number of blue/white diodes in each modular pod on the apollo's cidly will drive them at a lower wattage then if you have alot of reds. and uv and ir are driven to only 0.8watts. if you want UV its probably better to get supplemental lighting.
 
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