Thatdjguy777
Member
Ok, that flip is one of the many I have seen. But like I asked originally, is there a reason hoods are not hard wired to the outs from the relay or is it just because it's easier to disconnect plugs? Thanks again.
huh? got me dude im not sure what it is your asking. lol. try again and i might get an idea.Ok, that flip is one of the many I have seen. But like I asked originally, is there a reason hoods are not hard wired to the outs from the relay or is it just because it's easier to disconnect plugs? Thanks again.
I was talking about DIY ballast flip flop boxes. I have seen where they use a relay like the ones in the link you posted. The power from the ballast to the lights goes to the relay then splits off into two different lights(hoods), when the coil engages/disengages the relay sends the power to the other set of lights. They usually set up an outlet/receptacle after the relays where they plug in the hoods. I was asking why the hoods aren't hardwired straight to the relays(poles) instead of the outlets? Is this just out of ease to unplug the hoods when you need to or is there something dangerous about hardwiring the hoods straight to the relays?huh? got me dude im not sure what it is your asking. lol. try again and i might get an idea.
I was talking about DIY ballast flip flop boxes. I have seen where they use a relay like the ones in the link you posted. The power from the ballast to the lights goes to the relay then splits off into two different lights(hoods), when the coil engages/disengages the relay sends the power to the other set of lights. They usually set up an outlet/receptacle after the relays where they plug in the hoods. I was asking why the hoods aren't hardwired straight to the relays(poles) instead of the outlets? Is this just out of ease to unplug the hoods when you need to or is there something dangerous about hardwiring the hoods straight to the relays?
ok guys so flip boxes are a little out of my league. im in no way able to take the time to research them at the moment since im harvesting right about now and still tossing together a 6 light setup. but i can recommend actually buying one premade. they are well constructed and in all honesty really affordable now for the smaller 1-2, 2-4 and even 4-8 units. thats ballast-hood ratio. a decent 2-4 flip box is about 270 bucks on ebay. local hydro shop should mark it up to about 400+ easily. as far as building them is concerned i havent a clue where to start. i havent researched them due to the fact that they are so cheap compared to when they first came out. also i dig the warranties and the not having to figure out how to stuff. lol. sorry guys.O.k. so i read a few pages back, and I am wanting to do similar. I am looking to have my certified electrician friend build me a flip box. What type of relays/contactors are required? Also can you tell me how much voltage is running on the output of a 600watt digital ballast?
yes pretty much. the lighting controller was designed to run 4 1000 watt lights. it doesnt really care if you use less. its also not wasted power its just not used. also different ballasts mean different amperage ratings but not by much. give or take 5%. they sell lighting controllers with stepdowns for 120v that actually use some of the slack thats left but thats when you get into the bigger bucks. mine was about 175 but it gives me a 120v plug to run my inline fans but not much else. the more you spend the more options you have open to you as far using as much available power as you can.wheels. I'll I really need clarification on is this... If I get that 30amp 240v breaker installed, then wire it to a light controller, I'll only be using 18amps of power... so does that mean that the other 12amps (6 considering the 20% safety range) will go to waste because the the breaker is wired to the light controller?
Agreed, the amperage left over can go into new smaller expansions without more wiring having to be run - I agree with the above, without question. $ is where extra features (and potential sanity) come into play.yes pretty much. the lighting controller was designed to hold up to 4 1000 watt lights. it doesnt really care if you use less. its also not wasted power its just not used. also different ballasts mean different amperage ratings but not by much. give or take 5%. they sell lighting controllers with stepdowns for 120v that actually use some of the slack thats left but thats when you get into the big bucks. mine was about 175 but it gives me a 120v 2 amp plug to run my inline fans. the more you spend the more options you have open to you as far as technology and plugs.
exactly. what that guy said. lol.Agreed, the amperage left over can go into new smaller expansions without more wiring having to be run - I agree with the above, without question. $ is where extra features (and potential sanity) come into play.
yeah a lighting controller and a home depot plug with 6 gauge minimum wiring. it will let you run everything off of it.Hi ALL!! I have a 50A 250V 6-50R Straight Blade outlet in my grow area that I would like to utilize. Does anyone know of an Adapter that I can use for normal electronics such as Fans and Lights?
yeah a lighting controller and a home depot plug with 6 gauge minimum wiring. it will let you run everything off of it.
this will work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-Amp-Light-Controller-120-240v-24-hrs-Timer-Box-Bulb-/290532368204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a5141f4c
this will work better.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Light-Powerbox-DPC-15000-240V-Controller-50-Amp-Hardwire-Ammeter-Light-HID-/190646513136?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c636aedf0
the second is more expensive but gives you more options on running 120 shit off of it. fans and stuff like that. no ac and shit with higher amps of power.
in all honesty they are your best option. unless your handy enough to build your own lighting controller which i wouldnt recommend do to not wanting you to potentially burn your house down. another option is to pay an electrician to build you one in place but the cost of supplies and his hourly rate its going to probably cost about the same. either way up to you. also they sell other brands and model of controllers. some cheaper and some more expensive. but generally the expensive ones give you more options like you are asking for. unless you have a buddy who is an electrician this is the way to go properly . plus you shouldnt have to pay anyone to wire anything into place. the controllers are simple basic plug and play stuff so you dont have to fight with a thousand different timers. the more shit you invlove the more can go wrong. i suggest looking into the lighting controller option even if you dont really want to use one. just to keep your options open. also 240 volts at 50 amps isnt cheap to run properly. the $400 controller i posted a link for is as cheap as you will get unless you know an electrician.Thank you for the Links, but WHOLY SMOKES!! Those are pricey.. Not sure I can go with those options..
Thanks again for the Info.. Is there a reason I need to have a Light Controller? I was basically just looking for some type of adapter that would turn this outlet into a regular outlet that I could plug an Oscillating Fan and Maybe a Space Heater into. Is there anything like that?in all honesty they are your best option. unless your handy enough to build your own lighting controller which i wouldnt recommend do to not wanting you to potentially burn your house down. another option is to pay an electrician to build you one in place but the cost of supplies and his hourly rate its going to probably cost about the same. either way up to you. also they sell other brands and model of controllers. some cheaper and some more expensive. but generally the expensive ones give you more options like you are asking for. unless you have a buddy who is an electrician this is the way to go properly . plus you shouldnt have to pay anyone to wire anything into place. the controllers are simple basic plug and play stuff so you dont have to fight with a thousand different timers. the more shit you invlove the more can go wrong. i suggest looking into the lighting controller option even if you dont really want to use one. just to keep your options open. also 240 volts at 50 amps isnt cheap to run properly. the $400 controller i posted a link for is as cheap as you will get unless you know an electrician.