temp. question cfm ventilation

oh really???

Well-Known Member
i have a 500 cfm inline fan for a 23cubic feet cabinet. my outside temp is 82 degrees and my inside temp is 100. is it impossible to reduce the inside temp to around 75-80. i'm not sure of the science of it. plus my 8" fan is tapered to 2 inches with one 90 degree bend the exhaust is vented to the outside. what's the deal? how do i reduce the heat? i'm off to work but will check this tonight. any questions i can try to answer.
 

oh really???

Well-Known Member
work was quick only 2 hours. ok so? anybody? i'm going to work on it now so if i come up with more info. i'll post it.:joint:
 

NLXSK1

Well-Known Member
i have a 500 cfm inline fan for a 23cubic feet cabinet. my outside temp is 82 degrees and my inside temp is 100. is it impossible to reduce the inside temp to around 75-80. i'm not sure of the science of it. plus my 8" fan is tapered to 2 inches with one 90 degree bend the exhaust is vented to the outside. what's the deal? how do i reduce the heat? i'm off to work but will check this tonight. any questions i can try to answer.
If I understand you correctly you are saying your output line size ends up being 2" in diameter and this is after it takes a 90 degree bend?

That reminds me of a joke about passing a golf ball...

Anyway, no matter how big your input fan is, you are limited to a very small CFM at that exhaust size diameter. That is one of your biggest problems. You cannot pass 500 CFM through a 6" duct much less a 2" one.

Any way you can vent to a different area / larger pipe?
 

Hawk

Well-Known Member
Besides what he ^ said....

What light? Are you pulling air directly through the light (i.e. cooltube or sealed hood)?
 

yomammy

Active Member
if you have no energy source inside your cabinet, your fan will make your cabinet temp the same as your intake temp. any energy source (light of course, but also any other electrical or mechanical equipment doing work) will generate heat and raise the cabinet temp.

a very efficient ventilation system will maintain the cabinet temp close to the intake temp; the more efficient, the closer. the more energy you put in the cab (the hotter the lights), the more you will test the efficiency of the system.

you can optimize the system by making sure there is adequate intake venting, and hopefully that the path from the intakes to the exhaust will include the material to be cooled. in other words, make sure the fan can suck enough air in.

you can also make sure the exhaust is optimized by reducing back pressure as much as possible. the bernoulli principle reminds us the rate of flow is proportional to the length of the pipe. so the shorter and wider the pipe the better. any obstruction will impede outflow, increasing back pressure.

but in no case will you be able to reduce the temp below the intake temp unless you use something to extract energy from the incoming air. some form of airconditioner.
 

oh really???

Well-Known Member
precisely. ok so after researching the mighty google i have found a way to do it and you are all correct. the airflow will have to accomodate a 8in diameter duct. and the ambient air temp has to be in the 70's, so i will be nuying an a/c unit for this problem. i have divised a system that i think will work.

-take a 5 gallon rubbermaid tub cut a shoebox size hole in one of the longer sides,
-cut a shoebox size hole for your exhaust in your cabinet (no smaller than the diameter of the fan)
-seal the two cut hole together airtight.
-place the in-line fan on the top of the rubbermaid tub and seal airtight.
(this tub and fan combo will be resting on a shelf connected to the cab. and will be no wider than 12in- and a natural 90degree turn that is large enough for the airflow. . . i also plan on making this tub into a carbon scrubber)
-connect (x)diameter hose to the fan exhaust to dump expelled air.

yeah? also. i will have a passive intake that will total the diameter of the fan as well. with 23 cubic feet running a 500cfm fan i think i'm good.

What do you guys think?
 

NLXSK1

Well-Known Member
I think it may be loud.

How about install the inline fan inside the tupperwear on either side or in between the grow cabinet. Then build the scrubber off the top.

This way the tupperwear can act as a muffler for the fan.
 

oh really???

Well-Known Member
good idea. . . my plan was to pull the air through the scrubber rather than push and the fan is quite quiet. quieter than a box fan on high. but if i get a bigger tub, say 12-18in deep then i can have it as a self contained unit. i cannot put anything in the cabinet having to do with ventilation. so outside the cab it is.

. . .so an 8 in fan in a tub no taller and longer than 18in no wider than 12in. we'll see about the noise. . . and a exhaust port.

is it going to hurt the flow considerably if i put a 6in hose to exhaust the expelled air out of the tub? being that i have a 8in fan.

thank you so much for your help i'll rep ya.
 

oh really???

Well-Known Member
Besides what he ^ said....

What light? Are you pulling air directly through the light (i.e. cooltube or sealed hood)?
yeah i had a 250 hps in a sealed cabinet. the ballast and the light together. then i took apart the whole thing, removed the hps socket and removed the reflector. put it back together and i'm going to keep that ballast/hood away from the hot zone (maybe in a different room). so now i have the reflector and the socket in the cab with out the ballast. i haven't wired it up yet. the purpose was to reduce the heat the balast is putting out and overall strain the cabinet has to bare from a 50lb light setup

. . . .is it a hazard to extend the length of your hps socket electrical wires?? if done with same rated wire and conectors?
 
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