Vert Scrog Flooded Tube Banana OG, Dog Kush 1000w
- Thread starter jigfresh
- Start date
whodatnation
Well-Known Member
Giggity fucking gigSuper Soil and tea.I mixed up a batch for my birthday last march. It's been chillin on the side of the house. Also have some bird and bat guano for teas. It's going to be fun.
Will be quite a departure from the chemical mess I use now. I'm really looking forward to the taste and smell of the herb. I bet I'll like it all the way around better this way. Only problem is the whole watering/ vacations thing. Maybe I'll just do soil when I can.
Im so Excited your going to soil! tickles me
I think a major difference you will notice is the "fuller" smoke of soil nuggs. Im here every step of the way. had a few babies too, and Im very happy to see how enthusiastic and caring/loving you are about having a baby. Excited for you all around and congrats! definitely helps me center and remember my self so I can continue on.
Im right there with you G man.
As tld said, water in relation the size of yur plants and its root structure. If your planting a tiny clone in a big container give it just enough to dampen the rootzone. Try and visualize it
xray vision 
Ask away jig
Id like to help in any way I can to make this a good experience for you. I'll even come and plant-sit for you lol
whodatnation
Well-Known Member
Fucking RIU 
I keep trying to edit my last post and nothing....
Any fucking way,,, this is what I was trying to add, over and over again until I was smart enough to copy it lol
Edit: Brew a bennie tea every week and you will never have any rot issues (link posted in 600). I just found out the other day the beneficial nematodes breed in high quality teas,,, this will explain why Iv had no gnat/aphid/rott/mold issues in years... Tea is a magical thing!
And yes its a GREAT foliar feed/protector diluted of course... Speaking off,,, my plants need a shower, they are dirty lol
I keep trying to edit my last post and nothing....Any fucking way,,, this is what I was trying to add, over and over again until I was smart enough to copy it lol
Edit: Brew a bennie tea every week and you will never have any rot issues (link posted in 600). I just found out the other day the beneficial nematodes breed in high quality teas,,, this will explain why Iv had no gnat/aphid/rott/mold issues in years... Tea is a magical thing!
And yes its a GREAT foliar feed/protector
diluted of course... Speaking off,,, my plants need a shower, they are dirty lol
jigfresh
Well-Known Member
it's true chaka. i feel all young again. And in the back of my head I'm already thinking about what to do 'next'.
So whodat. I'm gonna do some reading, but just so i kinda understand first, the Heisenberg tea thread is about a different kind of tea than the veg and flower tea? So like I would theorhetically make up a batch of the beneficial bacteria tea once a week... than also make up a batch of flower/veg tea every ______ . And they are different things. And I will also give them water as needed between giving them these teas?
OH shit I feel so un knowledgeable. It almost tickles.
I GOtta read a lot. Shit. DIdn't even think about the fact i read about hydro for months before attempting. And here i am putting plants into soil knowing just about nothing. that's my first noob mistake.
Gotta find my reading glasses lol.
So whodat. I'm gonna do some reading, but just so i kinda understand first, the Heisenberg tea thread is about a different kind of tea than the veg and flower tea? So like I would theorhetically make up a batch of the beneficial bacteria tea once a week... than also make up a batch of flower/veg tea every ______ . And they are different things. And I will also give them water as needed between giving them these teas?
OH shit I feel so un knowledgeable. It almost tickles.
I GOtta read a lot. Shit. DIdn't even think about the fact i read about hydro for months before attempting. And here i am putting plants into soil knowing just about nothing. that's my first noob mistake.
Gotta find my reading glasses lol.
jigfresh
Well-Known Member
I was just reading about the soil i was plannning on getting. i figured light is better for some reason.... now i'm wondering if it will be an issue that the top soil is so much lighter than the bottom super soil. You can actually feel in the bag where the change it. it's all tight where the ss is and all floppy where the green lite is. The soil dosen't really hold it's shape it's so full of perlite.
I'm wondering if the top section will dry out quick while the bottom stays wet. lol.... NEWB ALERT!!! I'm sure the truth of the matter is... none of it will matter all that much.
Here's a description someone posted on another site;
I've tried the Greenlight from Roots. It should be compared to soil-less mediums like ProMix rather than to organic soils. It's very light and drains very fast. You can almost expect to have to water every single day. At least I did most of the time. I found it to be a good product just not exactly what I was looking for. I prefer to grow in amended soil and only feed with top dressing and teas. This Greenlight mix required too much watering to be as effective with this method.
I'm wondering if the top section will dry out quick while the bottom stays wet. lol.... NEWB ALERT!!! I'm sure the truth of the matter is... none of it will matter all that much.
Here's a description someone posted on another site;
I've tried the Greenlight from Roots. It should be compared to soil-less mediums like ProMix rather than to organic soils. It's very light and drains very fast. You can almost expect to have to water every single day. At least I did most of the time. I found it to be a good product just not exactly what I was looking for. I prefer to grow in amended soil and only feed with top dressing and teas. This Greenlight mix required too much watering to be as effective with this method.
whodatnation
Well-Known Member
Sounds fine jig. The dwc root slime cure thread,,,, its a castings tea with ancient forest (hummus I think) and a powdered myco. Purely for protecting and increasing root nutrient uptake efficiency, not as a feed. Also an awesome foliar spray, protects leaves and seeks out infection to take care of business, also boosts the plants immune system makeing them less susceptible to bugs and stress due to environmental factors.
A happy plant is a strong plant.
A happy plant is a strong plant.
TrynaGroSumShyt
Well-Known Member
I heard not to put myco's in tea because they get ate up? I kinda "top dress" every two weeks with it.
Bobotrank
Well-Known Member
Ok, I ask this because I'm dumb, and not because I think I know more...
I noticed that there aren't EWC in the DWC Root Slime Cure. . . Mainly just Mycos, Forest Hummus (as you said) and molasses. Did I read that right? Or am I missing something? Are there supposed to be castings in there?
Jig, we are all learning still, especially me. So don't feel like you're all alone on this one, lol. I've been trying to read up on this stuff the past few days and it can get confusing. At least for me. The links I put in that post in Whodat's thread have some good links to things. That ICMag link was pretty legit, too, from what I remember.
edit: T, there are some Mycos that can't live in water... or maybe that's all. They need something to live on that gets O2... I think top dressing would work fine.
I noticed that there aren't EWC in the DWC Root Slime Cure. . . Mainly just Mycos, Forest Hummus (as you said) and molasses. Did I read that right? Or am I missing something? Are there supposed to be castings in there?
Jig, we are all learning still, especially me. So don't feel like you're all alone on this one, lol. I've been trying to read up on this stuff the past few days and it can get confusing. At least for me. The links I put in that post in Whodat's thread have some good links to things. That ICMag link was pretty legit, too, from what I remember.
edit: T, there are some Mycos that can't live in water... or maybe that's all. They need something to live on that gets O2... I think top dressing would work fine.
genuity
Well-Known Member
dam right bobo,whodat might not know,but i follow most of what he dose.......if i could find the post,he did.>>>>>the GREEN PRINT.
EDIT:whodat post
For anyone interested, this is the "low down" on my room.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To start off,
The "shell" is built with 1/2 inch osb, a type of plywood, and 2x4s. I just used the dimensions of 4x8 for ease of use, thats how the plywood comes and no need to make cuts unless your fine fitting on an uneaven surface.
Shell partly built,, This is a good time to cut the doors and figure all that out.
Air for lights.
Figure out how you want your lights before hand and cut holes for ducting in the right place the first time.
The air for my lights is totally separate from the air inside my room.
The extraction fans for my lights are mounted inside my room.
Its best to keep straight lines with your ducting to increase the efficiency of the "suction" of the heat out of your light system.
If you can afford it put simple elbows on all bends in ducting.
IMO its best to set your extraction fan to suck the hot air out and ditch it out the other end.
I use 6 inch ducting even for my 1ks, its fine if you only have a few big lights. For larger systems with 5+ lights Id go with 8 inch.
So now I gotta cool the room without extracting air inside the room (co2).
Thats either
a portable ac (the right kind.) Im not familiar with them.
a window unit.
or a split unit ~~~
the best. but for bigger systems..
Now heat from the lights isnt an issue.
Its a good idea to insulate your room, even in the slightest way. All I use is 3/4 inch reflective insulation board bought from a home improvement store. I put this on the walls floor and ceiling.
I also caulk all joints 3-4 times over (before and after installing the insulation board). All doors have weather stripping foam on them to seal those spots up too.
I use the spray foam "greatstuff" to seal spots around the ac and 6 inch ducting along with any other big holes.
ok, got the lights and ducting and extraction fans set and sealed up nice eh? good job
that was quck
hehe
Also want a few ocilating fans in the mix, I know you know that but Im on a roll haha.
A dehumidifier is a must as well. I use a 25 pint on a auto drain.
Now,,,
Your room is sealed and bright and cool and dry all at the same time
but you need "fresh air" aka co2
Normal co2 levels in the atmosphere (depending on location) are around 450 ppm (parts per million) of co2. That is the max any conventional "in/out" room will achieve. This room can hold and stay at 1,500 ppm of co2 at all times of lights on. The co2 controller you buy determines how accurate your ppm levels will be though. My controller / monitor cost 700 us... It keeps the ppm within 20 points of my "set point" though... very precise and worth it.
You will also need a regulator for a co2 tank.. Burners are an necessary hazard for smaller set ups IMO.
NOW REMEMBER
Everything needs to be on point for co2 to do its magic! Perfect the enviroment and your root conditions (either it be soil or hydro) then co2 will be like nitrous to your little growing machine! vroooom vrooom
Your plants will also be able to process light faster so putting 75 w a sq foot isnt really a waste
maybe haha. You know my style
This also means they will eat more food and drink water faster so be prepared for that! but always be careful not to over feed
balance is key.
Thats pretty much my room besides the details on my hydro system
EDIT:whodat post
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To start off,
The "shell" is built with 1/2 inch osb, a type of plywood, and 2x4s. I just used the dimensions of 4x8 for ease of use, thats how the plywood comes and no need to make cuts unless your fine fitting on an uneaven surface.
Shell partly built,, This is a good time to cut the doors and figure all that out.
Air for lights.
Figure out how you want your lights before hand and cut holes for ducting in the right place the first time.
The air for my lights is totally separate from the air inside my room.
The extraction fans for my lights are mounted inside my room.
Its best to keep straight lines with your ducting to increase the efficiency of the "suction" of the heat out of your light system.
If you can afford it put simple elbows on all bends in ducting.
IMO its best to set your extraction fan to suck the hot air out and ditch it out the other end.
I use 6 inch ducting even for my 1ks, its fine if you only have a few big lights. For larger systems with 5+ lights Id go with 8 inch.
So now I gotta cool the room without extracting air inside the room (co2).
Thats either
a portable ac (the right kind.) Im not familiar with them.
a window unit.
or a split unit ~~~
Now heat from the lights isnt an issue.
Its a good idea to insulate your room, even in the slightest way. All I use is 3/4 inch reflective insulation board bought from a home improvement store. I put this on the walls floor and ceiling.
I also caulk all joints 3-4 times over (before and after installing the insulation board). All doors have weather stripping foam on them to seal those spots up too.
I use the spray foam "greatstuff" to seal spots around the ac and 6 inch ducting along with any other big holes.
ok, got the lights and ducting and extraction fans set and sealed up nice eh? good job
Also want a few ocilating fans in the mix, I know you know that but Im on a roll haha.
A dehumidifier is a must as well. I use a 25 pint on a auto drain.
Now,,,
Your room is sealed and bright and cool and dry all at the same time
Normal co2 levels in the atmosphere (depending on location) are around 450 ppm (parts per million) of co2. That is the max any conventional "in/out" room will achieve. This room can hold and stay at 1,500 ppm of co2 at all times of lights on. The co2 controller you buy determines how accurate your ppm levels will be though. My controller / monitor cost 700 us... It keeps the ppm within 20 points of my "set point" though... very precise and worth it.
You will also need a regulator for a co2 tank.. Burners are an necessary hazard for smaller set ups IMO.
NOW REMEMBER
Everything needs to be on point for co2 to do its magic! Perfect the enviroment and your root conditions (either it be soil or hydro) then co2 will be like nitrous to your little growing machine! vroooom vrooom
Your plants will also be able to process light faster so putting 75 w a sq foot isnt really a waste
This also means they will eat more food and drink water faster so be prepared for that! but always be careful not to over feed
Thats pretty much my room besides the details on my hydro system
jigfresh
Well-Known Member
Wow, I'm getting all worked up reading about this shit. So what I'm getting, and I've heard people say this a lot, is that we are kinda in the business of growing soil.... or something like that. THe idea is to make the soil as thriving as possible with different lifeforms all helping and working together to create a diverse web of life. And all that life will be perfect for the roots of the plants we're growing. And then sweet buds follow. I get it now. I mean, I don't know anything yet... but I kinda get the picture.
Circle of life type stuff. How cool.
Circle of life type stuff. How cool.
TrynaGroSumShyt
Well-Known Member
Exactly ! i love knowing exactly wtf im putting in, and love what i get out.
Edit: id reccomend getting a organic booster like botanicare pro bloom or AN Nirvana. They have a lot of other beneficials that arent as easy to source or to me its just simpler. but when i started adding it i saw the benefits(its only been 3 or 4 weeks) but before that i was off the bottle except for sensizyme which i dont recommend over hygrozyme.
whodatnation
Well-Known Member
Correct me if Im wrong, but this whole time Iv been understanding the term mycos as "Micro Organisms" and brewing tea is breeding microbes on a MISSIVE scale,,, so Tryna you cane make different specific teas by introducing certain species and allowing them to breed and thrive.
But then again I may be wrong about the term "mycos" I just always interpreted it as micro organisms.
There are some that need a surface to live on and thats usually the tea bag itself,, more DO (dissolved oxygen) the better, high h2o temps make sufficient DO levels difficult to achieve.
You got that right jig like I said before... I went from trying to grow good plants to trying to grow good roots,,, to trying to grow good soil. Take care of that soil and you really dont have much to worry about. Its as simple as it can get IMO... but whats simple for me may be difficult for others and visversa.
Oh and tryna, I wouldnt trust AN with my morning coffee dump. They disgust me on every level.
But then again I may be wrong about the term "mycos" I just always interpreted it as micro organisms.
There are some that need a surface to live on and thats usually the tea bag itself,, more DO (dissolved oxygen) the better, high h2o temps make sufficient DO levels difficult to achieve.
You got that right jig
like I said before... I went from trying to grow good plants to trying to grow good roots,,, to trying to grow good soil. Take care of that soil and you really dont have much to worry about. Its as simple as it can get IMO... but whats simple for me may be difficult for others and visversa.Oh and tryna, I wouldnt trust AN with my morning coffee dump. They disgust me on every level.
whodatnation
Well-Known Member
Oh thats it lol I think with enough DO they should be okay, but really I dont know.
On your other post about the tea thread. I read quite a bit of it and later on in the thread he explains the ancient forest is basically worm castings. Hes right, Iv found live worms in bags of ancient forest before, now thats quality
TrynaGroSumShyt
Well-Known Member
Same here. Mycorrhizae are fungi the help the roots but im sure you know. but yea i heard they get ate up. i heard if you have any additives for tea add them post brewing right before you water.
Don Gin and Ton
Well-Known Member
i'm so behind the times 
i'm just about to do my first hydro lol. this tea brewing and supersoil stuff is really interesting none the less.
i'm just about to do my first hydro lol. this tea brewing and supersoil stuff is really interesting none the less.
jigfresh
Well-Known Member
Alright everyone. I got some Roots Organics soil ready to put on top the Super Soil. Two pots that already have a much lighter mix on the top.
Question: Do I take out that lighter mix like Bobo suggested to be replaced with the denser roots soil.... Or do I experiment and see how the lighter mix works in 2 and use the roots for the other 2?
(It's not that i don't trust you bobo, lol) I'm leaning towards taking it out as it's just so much a difference in density from the super soil. i worry the water will go through it and run off the sides of the ss layer. Hahaha, i must sound like such a tool worrying about stuff like this. feel free to giggle.
Question: Do I take out that lighter mix like Bobo suggested to be replaced with the denser roots soil.... Or do I experiment and see how the lighter mix works in 2 and use the roots for the other 2?
(It's not that i don't trust you bobo, lol) I'm leaning towards taking it out as it's just so much a difference in density from the super soil. i worry the water will go through it and run off the sides of the ss layer. Hahaha, i must sound like such a tool worrying about stuff like this. feel free to giggle.