Seedlings with Nute burn. Pictures -> Cal/Mg?

[BquamB]

Hello all Roll it up users.

I have 4 seedlings, roughly 3 weeks old today that have been victim to some sort of Nute burn.

I have grown 3 times to completion and have been able to trouble shoot the problem with fair accuracy.
I have never yet come across this burn. I can not seem to find much upon my searching, possibly my "Lingo" is not exactly right...

I have a suspicion that the 1st Picture is a Zink problem, but I am not 100%. (Scratch the Zink thought- looked into it a bit more and not anything like it...) [Help ]

This leaf is starting to change colour, but there are no other spots that I could find on "Her" (Hopefully) that are showing the nute burn signs.

The 3 smaller plants are Bag seed. I have no idea what they might be- but they do look very Indica to me. Nice and fat leaves.

This is the worst of the worst. I have never seen a plant turn this colour and get all crispy. It flakes to the touch and I have noticed that it is on one of the other plants as well.

Unsure as to what the small bubbles are that have started to form on the leaf. It is one of the lower original leaves so I am not concerned, just curious as to what it may be.

Random other pictures of spots and abnormalities.

Thank you to whoever throws up an opinion- Learning is power!

BquamB

 

[smillz]

Very quick to jump to a nutrient burn, but it may be the opposite. Are you using nutrients and if so what kind? Also what is the soil PH because more times than not, nutrient lockout can lead to some very unforgiving consequences.

 

[superstoner1]

yeah, with this many issues on different strains i was thinking ph.

 

[BquamB]

I am sorry to jump to Nute Burn- I am High.... Very High.
I am using GH 3 part Fertz and am on week 3 of Drain to waste.
My pH is usually 6.2-6.5 after mixed.
I am using ProMix for soil w/ no added Mulch, Perlite, Other...
My run off last time i checked was around 4... to me was WAY LOW. I forget what my previous run off was- it's been a while since my last...
Temp in the tent is usually 28-30 (little hot, but its not too bad, leaves are generally not too pointy).
Humidity is usually between 25 (All plants Dry) and 45 (After water)

Tent is a 3'W 2'D 5'H.

Hope this helps =)

 

[smillz]

I am sorry to jump to Nute Burn- I am High.... Very High.
I am using GH 3 part Fertz and am on week 3 of Drain to waste.
My pH is usually 6.2-6.5 after mixed.
I am using ProMix for soil w/ no added Mulch, Perlite, Other...
My run off last time i checked was around 4... to me was WAY LOW. I forget what my previous run off was- it's been a while since my last...
Temp in the tent is usually 28-30 (little hot, but its not too bad, leaves are generally not too pointy).
Humidity is usually between 25 (All plants Dry) and 45 (After water)

Tent is a 3'W 2'D 5'H.

Hope this helps =)

A PH of 4!!! You need to get that cleared up as soon as possible or your plants will die. Remember that the mixture you put in is not going to be the same as what actually is in the soil. Everything you do to the soil affects the PH. More importantly the plants produce crystals around the roots which raise the acidity of the soil. Best advise I can give is flush the soil (dump water on it until the water comes out clear) and then measure that run off or add some kind of alkaline to increase the PH. You need to get the PH between 6-7 if you want to see improvements.

Also ProMix has a normal PH of 5.5-5.7, which is too acidic for cannabis in a soil.

 

[BquamB]

Thank you very much. I was probably too stoned when I started the plants and didnt flush the water first... Stupid me.

What would you say best way to raise soil PH or Run off PH?

i'll test the waters tomorrow as i flushed tonight and spaced (again High.... no excuse) and didnt check Ph.... FAil

 

[smillz]

Thank you very much. I was probably too stoned when I started the plants and didnt flush the water first... Stupid me.

What would you say best way to raise soil PH or Run off PH?

i'll test the waters tomorrow as i flushed tonight and spaced (again High.... no excuse) and didnt check Ph.... FAil

There are various methods to rise and lower PH, the easiest is to buy generic PH up and PH down (for soil). The addition of dolomitic lime, hardwood ash, bone meal, crushed marble with raise the PH. To lower the PH you can use composed leaves, sawdust, wood chips, and peat moss.

 

[smillz]

Thank you very much. I was probably too stoned when I started the plants and didnt flush the water first... Stupid me.

What would you say best way to raise soil PH or Run off PH?

i'll test the waters tomorrow as i flushed tonight and spaced (again High.... no excuse) and didnt check Ph.... FAil

Just another note, depending on where you are located, tap water (if you're using that) is normally between 6.5-8 on the PH scale. This can act as a method to increase the PH thanks to the added chlorine which has a PH of 11.7.

 

[BquamB]

I just did a runoff check and it shows it is at 4.5 or so.... For shame on me for not noticing...
NOOB!

I guess I'll have to get some Dol. Lime soon. How much would you say to add and how much would you say I should flus. h? They are in need of a new home this weekend I hope. My current Idea (And tell me if I am wrong in thinkig so-

1. Fill 4x 1Gal pots and flush water through for a good while until I see the PH has changed (if it would work at all...)
2. Wait for 4" pots to dry up a slight bit; then transplant into the flushed 1gal's
3. wait to see new growth, water and check again.


?

 

[smillz]

I just did a runoff check and it shows it is at 4.5 or so.... For shame on me for not noticing...
NOOB!

I guess I'll have to get some Dol. Lime soon. How much would you say to add and how much would you say I should flus. h? They are in need of a new home this weekend I hope. My current Idea (And tell me if I am wrong in thinkig so-

1. Fill 4x 1Gal pots and flush water through for a good while until I see the PH has changed (if it would work at all...)
2. Wait for 4" pots to dry up a slight bit; then transplant into the flushed 1gal's
3. wait to see new growth, water and check again.


?

I've never used dolomitic lime so I don't want to comment on how much or little it takes to raise the PH. Best to do a google search on that. All I know is that it will raise it.

As for flushing, the PH should change because the water will help clear out all the nutrients and hopefully help dissolve the crystals in the soil.

Key points are to ensure that the water your using has a neutral or close to neutral PH. So you want it in the 6.5-7.5 range. You need to continually measure the PPM (parts per million) that comes out the bottom of the pot to ensure that you're actually flushing all the nutrients out. So keep adding water until there is little to no change in the PPM. If you can't measure this then a good rule of thumb is flush until the water comes out clear. Generally you wan't to add quite a bit of water, 3-5x the size of your pot for best results. JUST MAKE SURE YOU USE WATER AT ROOM TEMPERATURE TO AVOID SHOCKING THE PLANT. Some people will mix 1/4 nutrients in during flushing, but I find it kind of counteractive to the whole point of the process.

There is no need to transplant the plants at this point and it would actually be quite difficult with soil that wet. And it isn't entirely necessary to flush over long periods of time. Water dissolves the nutrients and crystals regardless, so it isn't about the time period which you flush over its more about ensuring you use enough water. Basically this process is diluting the nutrient concentration is the soil.

 

[BquamB]

Alright. I went out and bought a 2Kg bag of Dolomite Lime looks roughly like this:

I have taken a 1Gal pot, added ProMix to the brim and 1 Tbs of Dolomite Lime.
I then watered the pot several times (Roughly 10L have passed the soil and drained) - Then checked the pH.

To my confusion it still shows around 4-5...

For experimental purposes, I the took a small container, added 1 Tbs of Lime, Mixed with water until dissolved, poured onto top soil, added more water and mixed it all in. Once i ran some more water through I again tested pH and it is still around 5... What gives?

Am i missing something? and is it possibly because it takes a while to activate or change the soil?

Thank you for the help and sorry for bumping thread =)

 

[smillz]

Alright. I went out and bought a 2Kg bag of Dolomite Lime looks roughly like this:

I have taken a 1Gal pot, added ProMix to the brim and 1 Tbs of Dolomite Lime.
I then watered the pot several times (Roughly 10L have passed the soil and drained) - Then checked the pH.

To my confusion it still shows around 4-5...

For experimental purposes, I the took a small container, added 1 Tbs of Lime, Mixed with water until dissolved, poured onto top soil, added more water and mixed it all in. Once i ran some more water through I again tested pH and it is still around 5... What gives?

Am i missing something? and is it possibly because it takes a while to activate or change the soil?

Thank you for the help and sorry for bumping thread =)

Question: When you mixed the dolomitic lime with water (assuming it dissolves readily enough) what was the PH? And what exactly is the method you're using to measure the PH?

I did some research for you... =)
And dolomitic lime is slow at increasing the PH. The fastest method to increase PH is burned lime, followed by hydrated lime and pelletized lime. So I suspect you need to give it time to work. Just be very weary about the amount your using because increasing the PH too quickly will also shock the plant. You want to increase the PH slowly, so I suspect the fact that dolomitic lime is a slow increasing substance means you made the right choice.
http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/lime.html

And just for future reference:

Problems in very acid soils	Problems in alkaline soils
*Aluminum toxicity to plant roots	*Iron deficiency
*Manganese toxicity to plants	*Manganese deficiency
*Calcium & magnesium deficiency	*Zinc deficiencies
*Molybdenum deficiency	*excess salts (in some soils)
*P tied up by Fe and Al	*P tied up by Ca and Mg
*poor bacterial growth
*reduced nitrogen transformations

ABOUT DOLOMITIC LIME:
The most common liming materials are calcitic or dolomitic agricultural limestone. These are natural products made by finely grinding natural limestone. Since natural limestone is relatively insoluble in water, agricultural limestone must be very finely ground so it can be thoroughly mixed with the soil and allowed to react with the soil's acidity. Calcitic limestone is mostly calcium carbonate (CaCO[SUB]3[/SUB]). Dolomitic limestone, according to most state laws, must have at least 6 percent magnesium, and is made from rocks containing a mixture of calcium and magnesium carbonates. Either will neutralize soil acidity. Dolomitic limestone also provides magnesium.

 

[BquamB]

Well thank you very much!

Thats lame it takes for ever to raise but I guess it is what it is. I thought that once i diluted the Lime in the water and then watered with that it would raise but I guess its an Activating process.... I will test again tomorrow and Monday........ see what happens.


Thak you very much for the help, i really stonely appreciate it.

 

[smillz]

Well thank you very much!

Thats lame it takes for ever to raise but I guess it is what it is. I thought that once i diluted the Lime in the water and then watered with that it would raise but I guess its an Activating process.... I will test again tomorrow and Monday........ see what happens.


Thak you very much for the help, i really stonely appreciate it.

No problem, keep me posted.

 

[BquamB]

Okay, so I mixed 1 tbs of Lime in a bottle, shook it till dissolved and added to my 4 plants in hopes that it will show a difference soon. the one plant with yellowing lower leaves is looking terrible since last night but i have high hopes that this could help fix or aid the plant.

 

[cleverpiggy]

So any change yet, I'm dying over here!