Quick Q about wiring a 2 Gang electrical outlet box... Grounding outlets together...

[george xxx]

It's a very misleading product, it actually only has 240V powered outlets with '120v style interface' however I can put that and 120v trigger but that's it. It actually only takes two hots and a ground, it's 10/2 plus ground. I don't need a neutral for anything which is why I was concerned at first thinking I needed 10/3 but even the installation documentation for this thing specifically states to use 10/2.

Let me explain something about using 10/2 & 10/3

220v using 10/2 with ground cannot be ued in any device which has a 110 outlet. The reason for this is because the ground wire in 10/2 is not made to carry electrical current. The 10/2 ground does not have insulation on the ground wire like the 2 hot leads have. The ground wire in 10/2 is not 10 guage wire it is smaller. If subjected to code inspection or an osha inspection it could not possibly pass because common and neutral must be of the same wire size. The ground wire in 10/2 is a ground strap only, never a conductor of electricity.

Ground is not, never has been, never will be, approved for use as a conductor of electrical current.

10/3 will provide 2 hot leads and 1 neutral lead - one hot and neutral can be used to provide power for a 110 outlet but there will be no ground wire for the 110 outlet.

10/3 with ground will provide hot, neutral and ground required for a 110 outlet.

The box with timer is made to use 110 or 220. For 110 use, a 10/2 with ground will work. For 220 use it requires a 10/3 with ground.

Late tonight I will open one of my boxes and show you what 220 split into a 2 gang, 30 amp 110 looks like.

 

[DrGribble]

I understand all of this already... thanks though. It's a misleading product based on terrible descriptions from everything I have now read (from CAP) it is NOT to be EVER used with 120V products. The only thing 120V about this is the trigger for the relay to enable it to function I have determined but it can be 'modified' to run less 120V ballasts apparently which is stupid... like I said it's just terribly misleading marketing IMO.

 

[Brokeoldbloke]

I've never seen that "universal X-plug" receptacle type before, pretty cool. So is the new light setup up in running now?

 

[DrGribble]

Yeah it's all been up and running since yesterday, been running all 3 lights to see if I can keep temps under control... getting there, I mean it's low 80's but I'd like some more breathing room or add Co2 but room is not air tight.

 

[george xxx]

I understand all of this already... thanks though. It's a misleading product based on terrible descriptions from everything I have now read

I am not a teacher so I may not explain in the easiest to understand terms.
Actually its not misleading its quite correct. Straight forward and east to understand. Its just not made to use in this country unless you know how to wire it. That box and 10/3 with ground wire will do what I think you were looking for. ( 2 30amp 110v outlets with a timer powered by one 220v line)
This may sound like double talk but it's not. Don't know how to better explain it. The box and the directions are fucked up because the directions and the picture here do not match the picture you posted in reply #12. That picture has 20 amp outlets. Not the X plug. The directions as pictured work with 10/2 if you are someplace like Europe where standard household sockets are 220. Haven't been there in over 40 years so it may have changed.

I've never seen that "universal X-plug" receptacle type before, pretty cool. So is the new light setup up in running now?

Pre-1962
"Double T-slot", not manufactured since early 1960s
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:NEMA_5_1_devices2.jpg


For DIY projects you can go to any hardware or home center and buy electrical or plumbing products that you can install and use that will not pass code for a building inspection.
It should be illegal to sell a product the manufacturer knows will not pass codes but corporate america's profit margin has a higher priority than your safety. You say you read and understand the box but others will read this who understand nothing but still will try to wire such items. Since you have a Dryer outlet available this may still be of interest.

The 220 - 110 splitter has a lot of use in construction. ( illegal big Osha fine) A simple chop saw draws 20 to 25 amp. How can you use one with a standard household socket You can't It will pop a breaker in a matter of seconds. You are expected to change the plug on the saw and install a 30 amp receptacle. To the best of my knowledge there are no US appliances or tools manufactured for 110 volt use that have 30 amp wireing.

Everything pictured in my box is illegal because there is no possible way to pass code using the standard 15 or 20 amp outlets on a 30 amp breaker. A 30 amp 110 outlet requires a 30 amp receptacle. Probably 99% of the people in this country have no idea what a 30 amp 110 volt outlet looks like.




A 220/110 splitter made with a 10/3 dryer cord. This will power a 20 amp saw and a 1200w MH at the same time on a 100' 220 cord without blowing the breaker.



Internal connections. 110 leg to each receptacle and connected to a neutral the center wire in the cord.



10 ga. Wires

Left; is 10/2 with ground. The ground wire has no insulation and is 12ga.
This 12 ga. wire will overheat if you use it as a neutral to pull more than 20 amps. Ground wires are not made to conduct electricity. Its just a safety backup.

Center; Standard 10/3 cord. Three 10ga. insulated conductors. Typical for a dryer cord.

Right; is 10/3 with ground. Three 10ga. insulated conductors and a 14ga. ground without insulation.

Tips & Warnings
Some appliances will require a fourth connection for "neutral" (e.g., to power an oven light in a 220-volt oven or an indication light on a 220-volt dryer).



Read more: How to Wire a 220 Volt 20 Amp Outlet | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7738449_wire-volt-20-amp-outlet.html#ixzz26iGZVXwH