2000w 5' x 10' flower room. Cooling advice needed - diagram inside

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Dodongo

Well-Known Member
I currently have 2x 1000w HPS lights in my flower room, and heat is becoming (well, has been) somewhat of an issue. Temps never go over 87 with lights on but that's still way too hot for my liking.

I have a 400cfm fan making negative pressure in the room, and pushing that air through the 2 hoods and exhausting to a far away spot in the attic (which is insulated as well). I have ductwork ran to the top of that room from my house AC to help cool the room a bit. The negative pressure in that room also sucks in air towards the bottom of the panda-plastic framed wall in there as well.

Proposed plan:
Have the intake from the fan come from one corner of the attic (instead of being inside the room) and exhaust to another corner. Or perhaps install a roof vent and hook the exhaust directly up to that? Would either of these help?

I know I could buy an AC unit for the room but I don't want to spend that kind of money currently.

Ideas anyone? Thanks :)

HVAC Plan 1.png
 
The Count

The Count

Well-Known Member
Intake and exhaust into the same place is a very bad idea... basically you're just going to eventually pull the hot air you spit up there, back through your lights = not good. Pulling intake from an attic isnt gonna help very much simply bc its at the top of your house and hot air rises. Your ideal set up is going to be pulling fresh air from outside your room across your lights and out into the attic. You can pull the air from inside the room but in doing so you will need an air filter or else your just going to be pumping stinky air into the attic which will eventually make its way outside. Only problem with pulling through an air filter first is that it causes some resistence and thus effecting the cooling of your lights. Since you only have 2 lights you might be OK... I had 4-1000w but they werent in a straight line so I had to connect them with a Y connector for my exhaust which again adds resistance. Long post short... first option pull fresh air from outside your room across your lights with your fan inbetween the hoods and exhaust in attic. #2 carbon filter to hood#1 through fan out hood #2 and into attic. Wouldnt even consider pulling air from your attic since you are venting there and attics are hot in general/

Also pulling air from outside your room will allow your AC to be more efficient. Obviously pulling from inside the room you'll basically be wasting the cool air cause its just gonna get sucked out... more reason to pull from outside your room :)
 
Warlock1369

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
Is another fan and filter a option? If so I would go with #2 but have a filtered duct run the top of the room to the attic as well. So heat from the lights and heat from room are vented out of the area. The filter would bring negative air in just like now but smell will be scrubbed.
 
ScoobyDoobyDoo

ScoobyDoobyDoo

Well-Known Member
your exhaust fan should be as close to the exit point as possible. you want to pull air through your lights and then exhaust it into the attic. fans work better when sucking air, not pushing it through your hoods. the way you have it set up now you are creating positive pressure in your hoods which is pushing hot air out of the seems and into your room.

i would get rid of the hose from the register as well. that's a bad idea and leads to temperature swings during lights off which can cause mildew and mold. also, don't pull air from your attic into your room. the attic is a hotbox so it's counter productive.

with the amount of money you are going to spend on extra ducting and fans i would just get a cheap $300 dual hose portable ac. that's just my opinion though.
 
miijade

miijade

Member
So I've got a similar set up as yours. Only difference being 600's instead of 1000's. So How I do it is I have a $250 8,000 btu AC pumping cool fresh air into the flower room. This creates positive pressure. I then have a fan sucking air through the lights and into the attic. One fan can both vent the room and cool the lights. If you don't want to use AC then just instal some type of vent at the bottom of your room. Preferebly big enough that the air entering the room somewhat equals the air leaving the room. A little negative pressure is good. But not too much or your tent will collapse....LOL Also, try installing a T between the lights. Then suck air from that point. It will draw air from both ends of your lights helping the cooling process.

Getting my room dialed in was by far the most difficult part. What I learned was : Do Not skimp when it comes to the design. You can get good used equipment out there, but as far as the design goes, make sure you have a plan and do it right the first time. I probably spent an extra $300 and many hours, just because I was trying to cut corners. Good Luck.
 
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Dodongo

Well-Known Member
So taking everyones point into consideration, leaves me with a few options.

1) if I get an AC unit for the room should I have the hood ducting go:
A] intake from outside of room -> into room & through both Lights -> inline fan -> exhaust toto attic (pos pressure in room due to AC)
or B] connect both lights with a T fitting -> have the inline suck air through both hoods -> exhaust to attic (neg pressure in room due to inline being stronger than AC)

2) if I don't get an AC right away is it better to have neg pressure in the room or a neutral pressure? (Either way im taking scoobys suggestion and moving the inline to the rear of the ducting to prevent positive pressure in the light hoods)
 
Warlock1369

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
Negative is needed. And most AC have a neutral or negative on the room. As long as it sucks air from the room. There are tons of ways to do this room. Can you give a list of what you have and willing to get? We can come up with something for you.
 
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Dodongo

Well-Known Member
Heres the d/l on the room:

I have a 5x10 room (initially a 10x10good, framed a stud wall to make it said size). 3 walls are drywall covered in panda plastic. The stud wall has no drywall just panda plastic staple gunned to the studs with a zipper on it to enter.

-i live in a ranch so exhausting to attic isn't hard, just a mere hole in the ceiling

-400cfm fan.

-2x 6" air cooled hoods
I've got plenty of ducting and clamps available. I can get more ducting or fittings if need be.

I can get an AC (seeming as it looks like the only realistic option) cheaper the better though, I can always upgrade after the next harvest

If anything else is needed let me know and i'll see what I can work out.
 
Warlock1369

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
Sence you said ranch guessing smell isn't a issue. So if you can just ad a window AC in the room. And go with idea 2 but pull air for lights from your other half room. A window AC will make a small negative pressur room. But a bathroom fan from homedepot exiting to the attic will change air with your passive intake.
 
Warlock1369

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
This is how the back of my AC looks thru my wall. It dumps the heat in the gerage. But if you can put it out the window your good. And yes that small unit cools a 14x7 2600w room and a 14x7 400w T5 veg room.

And I'm guessing your wall looks like mine.
 
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Dodongo

Well-Known Member
By ranch I meant single story house. Im actually really close to my neighbors here.

Having said that, will a window AC exhaust the smell outside? If so, any way to filter that? If it does smell and you can't filter it would getting a 2-hose AC unit be a better plan?

Yep wall looks similar ;)
 
ScoobyDoobyDoo

ScoobyDoobyDoo

Well-Known Member
Warlock1369 said:
This is how the back of my AC looks thru my wall. It dumps the heat in the gerage. But if you can put it out the window your good. And yes that small unit cools a 14x7 2600w room and a 14x7 400w T5 veg room.

And I'm guessing your wall looks like mine.
Click to expand...
LOVE IT! Macgyver Shit right there. Awesome!!! :clap:
 
Warlock1369

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
Target has some carbon filters that fit inside my AC screen. (Modifyed) Had the change every 3-4 weeks. But only realy smelled when humid outside. You can find them with air purifiers.
 
UnionBlvd

UnionBlvd

Well-Known Member
Get a bigger fan imo, 400 cfm is not enough. Bigger the better, go for 750+, if you find a good deal on a used max can or something put it on a speed controller. My room design is similar except I draw intake air from the rest of the house, then vent to the attic. Don't intake from the attic, it's just gonna heat up the room. Good luck~
 
Warlock1369

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
Why go big on fan then pay more to slow it down? 400cf is all the room is. So that's changing the air every minute. Maybe I'm just one of the guys that matches cfm to what I need. Also smell and noise isn't something I need to worry about but still try to do.
 
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Dodongo

Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the help everyone! I have a few last questions.

I'm debating between a window AC, a single hose, and a dual hose unit. All seem to have their pros and cons.

If I get a window AC unit,I can't set it up in it up normally in the room so I was thinking of doing a conversion like this -> http://www.420magazine.com/forums/do-yourself/116244-window-ac-converion-enclosed-space.html to make it work if I went that route. I'd have it intake from the half room and exhaust vented to attic

But how do I have the inline fan setup in the room [depending on which AC unit I got]? There seems to be a number of ways to do this. I'm not CO2 enriching the room so I don't need a sealed room per se.

Which room option would be best for a window AC? For a Single hose? And a Dual hose?

HVAC Plan 2.png
 
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