250w HPS Club And Help Guide

10acjed

Active Member
Damn.. Sorry to hear about the heat issues...

Having some spots and curling on 3 of mine, just put them under the HPS and watered with purified yesterday, the prior time i watered with FloraNova bloom and was planning a nute - water - nute cycle.
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I was wondering if they were getting burned, but the last pic is one thats at the same level as the others....

Not sure if there is a "fix" for it, my soil ph is fine. Unfortunately I water them again before researching and read it could be anything from a nute deficiency to over watering :wall:

I was planning on putting them in the 3gal pots friday, but wondering if it would be too stressful?
 

10acjed

Active Member
Not really sure on that. I only have a soil Ph tester, and really went over our budget on the setup so I can get one for my h20 for a few weeks. I used a friends and tested store bought purified, and it was good, but I havent been able to test my run off.
I am using straight Ocean Forest soil, and the only additive I have used in the water is FloraNova grow, which I used 1/2 the recommended for the first time about a week ago.
The chart I was looking at showed it as a Mn issue..
MANGANESE (Mn)
Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.
Yesterday morning I switched the light, and watered with straight purified h20, this am those 3 were showing the spots, the other 5 look fine. Those 3 are also definitely all the same strain.

How long til you see signs of deficiencies? Would it be within 24 hours?
 

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
Not really sure on that. I only have a soil Ph tester, and really went over our budget on the setup so I can get one for my h20 for a few weeks. I used a friends and tested store bought purified, and it was good, but I havent been able to test my run off.
I am using straight Ocean Forest soil, and the only additive I have used in the water is FloraNova grow, which I used 1/2 the recommended for the first time about a week ago.
The chart I was looking at showed it as a Mn issue..

Yesterday morning I switched the light, and watered with straight purified h20, this am those 3 were showing the spots, the other 5 look fine. Those 3 are also definitely all the same strain.

How long til you see signs of deficiencies? Would it be within 24 hours?
Now that you say that I'm going to go ahead and guess cal/mag lock out, and based on you saying straight fox farms for soil I'd guess acid lockout. Ya solutions/soil is too acidic, and your plant cant uptake mg/ca properly. This will start as minor burns, then will spread to dots, then it's burns and dots that dries out leaves.

I'd pick up an h2o pH meter, some ph meter calibration solution (important to keep your pH meter accurate, it will literally swing out of measurement in 2-3 weeks), and some Cal Mag. Totally worth it, you will see the vigor your plants have been hiding this whole time. I did my first grow without a pH meter, thinking, "Eh, I can do without it, I just spent all this $$ on soil and lights.. i'll buy it next grow". That grow without the pH meter suffered. They grew ok, scraggliy, and slow during veg. Then once they started blooming about 20 days in I started seeing leaf damage, I thought it was my light, but now I know it wasn't. By day 35 like 70% of my foliage was completely destroyed, only half way through flower. They didn't end up too awesome. It was weed, and a lot, but they were definitely missing out. Now I use like at LEAST 5-10mL Cal Mag every watering. And my plants haven't showed signs of burning - so they are basically eating that shit up like candy. They love it.


http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688

Once you get your equipment ---- pH your water from 6.5-6.8, start acidic during veg, as the N gets taken up better, then gradually move to 6.7-6.8 for flower, which helps uptake phosphorous, which is necessary for later on in bloom moreso than N. I usually chill with the N feedings around day 25 flower. If you don't know, you control your h2o pH with pH up (blue), and pH down (orange). I also recommend once you get that, that you pick up some 10mL oral syringes at walgreens. They are commonly used for pets to swallow medicine, and also with humans, dull plastic syringe. It makes adding pH up/down really easy, as you can count droplets. The pH down is very very concentrated, 16 drops in my 8.2pH water and it's down to 6.7.


Hope that helps!
 

cbtbudz

Well-Known Member
when you see a deficiencie, the problem has been for a couple weeks.take around2-5 days to see improvment after you made the correction
 

10acjed

Active Member
Thanks for the help...

I am thinking then it must be from the nutes added last week, seems the straight water is best for now and I will order a Ph meter this week. I will let you know how it goes...


I cant really get a grasp on growth tho, they do not seem small or big for the age, more average from what I have seen. Plus I am able to keep the light 10 - 12" off so they are not stretching much, however I did see a spurt since yesterday.
They are tied all over the place and cropped otherwise they would all be 12" tall by now...
 

cbtbudz

Well-Known Member
nevermind i did some readinglol.i c ffof.for plants that small no nutes are needed for a couple weeks and if your using bennies then maybe3-4 weeks.not saying some strains can handle higher nute values.
 

10acjed

Active Member
nevermind i did some readinglol.i c ffof.for plants that small no nutes are needed for a couple weeks and if your using bennies then maybe3-4 weeks.not saying some strains can handle higher nute values.
Yeah I have pretty much narrowed it down to the nutes, and maybe the strain being more sensitive. Being the three that were showing yesterday are all the same, and the rest seem ok I am just going to hold back on the nutes for another week or two, and get them sexed and transplanted.

Thanks for the help
 

Matchbox

Well-Known Member
Looking good everyone! shame about the heat... surprised to hear myself say that being in the UK lol... our heat is mid 20*c but with no sun... just cloud... and humidity, bad times :)

Chopped my white widow last Thursday, she's now in the curing jars. Chopping my Amnesia Lemon today and checking the Sour Candy for an estimate on chop date, might even be today too I haven't looked at her for a good week lol :D Will stick up some pics when they all come down!

Keep it up and Stay Frosty guys 'n gals!
 

ace720

Active Member
Any one know of a good small dehumidifier? That they actually used. :)
Its getting a lil too humid in my tent around 40% in flower.
 

Kalebaiden

Well-Known Member
I've decided that i'm never growing indoors in summer again, unless I restructure my grow room to allow for an actual cooling system
 

cbtbudz

Well-Known Member
hey ace720. why 40% is good for flower.i would say if its over60%in flower then lower that.at the lower % in flower it stress them a little so they get a little more frosty but less weight.imo.for me ideal for flower around 35%
 

cbtbudz

Well-Known Member
hey kale have you tried diy co2? it will help with the heat.easy way sugar yeast and water in 2L bottle with hole on top. shake it up co2.andif your in veg try18-6 light do it so during the heat of day will be lights out.that should get you past the heat,once the plants get bigger heat doesnt do so much damage.use less nutes to during the heat.hopefully that helps.
 

ace720

Active Member
hey ace720. why 40% is good for flower.i would say if its over60%in flower then lower that.at the lower % in flower it stress them a little so they get a little more frosty but less weight.imo.for me ideal for flower around 35%
Yeah I'm just so use to the lower humidity anything other then that I'm scared of.
I just don't want mold. I'm only doing one plant in a 2x2 and if mold comes I would be pissed.
Mans I get some nice weight out of 14% humidity but I veg long to.
 
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