Reserva Privada Sour Kush (Headband) waterfarm
- Thread starter noob78
- Start date
sky rocket
Well-Known Member
Only one I've grown was og#18. I had had good success in my stinkbud setup. Clones took a little bit longer than expected from the og#18. But I will grow them again after I grow my holy grail kush.
noob78
Active Member
How was the yield and smoke from that? and how do you like the holy grail kush?
hardknox72
Active Member
Its Reserva Privada I believe but I got it from clone.
Sr. Verde
Well-Known Member
Grab a coffee, and a smoke! This could be a long read! 
That being said, you want to take as much time to dry your product as you can, without molding it. Chlorophyll gets soaked up by the water, and when the water leaves the flower it takes the chlorophyll with it. This is why our plants go from fresh cut grass after chop, to dank smell after a good cure - the fresh cut grass is a result of the chlorophyll. The longer it takes the water to leave, the more chlorophyll it takes with it - resulting in smoother less harsh smoke, and tastier medication. It's not an exact science, as every grow and strain is different - but this is pretty much the outline of my process below:
Day one: Remove big branches in one piece from the plant, clip all the leaves off it that you can, without removing any buds on the stalk (of course cut yourself a handle, avoid carpal tunnel)..
Day 2-3 proceed to break it down to only the fattest nugs, and densest stalks. Remove excessive stems, but leave tiny buds on the stems (takes longer for them to dry this way). Then I put everything on racks, and let them sit on one side for a day, then I flip them over. This whole time not blowing air on the flowers themselves, but blowing air around the room.
After 3 days the stems should shrink hella, this is where I continue to break down the stalks and remove more and more thick, wet stems.. Once I remove the stems sometimes leaves are hiding in the crevice between the stalk and the bud so I do some extra trimming at this point.
Around day 4-5 we are pretty much watch the finished product dry and wait for it to get *crispy*.
5-7 days of drying later, we are ready to start sweating the buds. I'm finding out this is best to start early, rather than later. Some people in between jars, and screens will use like brown paper bags to draw extra moisture out - but I don't. I go straight from rack to jars, and if they are still really wet I simply leave the jars open for 4 hours twice a day until I can simply burp them a few times a day without worrying about mold.
There are many indicators that a bud is ready to be jarred, some people say wait til the branch snaps, but at that point I think it is already too dry. Wait til the branch bends, and wants to snap but cant, you know? You don't want wet spaghetti stems, but you don't want dry spaghetti stems either. Imagine spritzing a pile of dry spaghetti sticks with water, and then imagine how the spaghetti is still wet, but is still too dry to break. This is where I think you want to stop drying and start curing.
The point at which you decide to stop drying, and start curing is the most important thing that decides how well cured your bud is. There is a perfect window for sure, and it takes a few hands on tries to perfect. I'd say the second most important thing is understanding when your bud needs to breathe, and when it is ready to be opened only once a day. The easiest (third most important) is likely environment, keep humidity from 50-60% (you might find something better but it's what i use), and temp around 72-78 for the entire time your drying.
I go by feel, and smell (if you've smelled moldy bud, you know what it smells like, and what the build up to it smells like).. If it's smelling really damp, nearly sour, like ammonia almost, let it BREATHE! Shake your buds up to get fresh nug surface touching the air and leave the top off til the unplesant smell goes away, then jar it again, check it sometime later and repeat. Every day you cure you get further away from mold/mildew chances.
Your burping schedule should look something like this, but again, think about the above and don't go against instincts, use this as an outline.
Week 1 cure: First few days lid off, sifting buds around to keep the drying even. Being inside glass will make them sweat even if the lids off the mason jar. Last few days add a lid, burping 4-6 times a day if possible for about 10-15 mins each. If you can only burp a few times a day, let the lid stay off longer to make up for it.
week 2 cure: If your not molded by now your on the right track. Keep following the routine from the end of week 1, and by the end of the week only open 2-4 times a day.
week 3 cure: Pretty easy now, open once or twice a day... in the middle of the week let it sit with the lids off for an hour or something, and then see how it is.
week 4 cure: Once a day, if not once every 2 days
Week 4-6 cure: Once every 2 days, if not once every 4 days by week 6.
By week 4, your THC-A has degraded into the psychoactive compound THC. Your weed is now peaking in potency, now is the time to say[brag] to friends, "Hey check THIS stuff out!"
By week 6 your at the best cure possible, week 6-10 it will still be good but after about 10-12 weeks you will notice the smell might dip down a little, and the high will get a little more body and medicative as the THC eventually breaks down into CBN and CBD.
Yeah man, I'll take some pics this morning for you!
Pretty much you get a line of zip ties connected to eachother, and form a band around the pot the plants in. Make it as tight as you can, you will still be able to slip zip ties under neath.
Now on your zip tie pot band, add single zip ties, in rings, to the band. This will be your HOOK or anchor. Now I add a few adjuster zip ties, I add one normal sized zip tie, and then I add a small zip tie to that. Now I pull the branch down where I want it, and use an additional zip tie, to hook the branch to the line of zip ties that eventually hooks to the pot. Now as your branches grow up into the light, you tighten the adjuster zip tie down and it pulls the branch down. You never have to worry about the branch out growing the zip ties, because the loops are very large that are hooked to the actual branch, to adjust, you tighten the zip tie connected to the zip tie that your branch is hooked up to ! (this will ALL make sense with photos trust me don't be nervous about my terrible description).
Basically I have like 30 of these hooks at the base of my plant, that are all connected to all the branches up in the screen. I do this as early as possible, so that it's super easy to train my plants when they become huge bushes. Now that they are in flower, all hooked up - if I see one cola, that is a few inches above all the other colas, I reach down to the pot, tug on the ties until I see the branch wiggle that needs adjusting, and literally pull on the zip tie to permanently bring the branch closer to the pot, evening out the level of the flower tops.
Keep two things in mind, slower the better. & mold is death, avoid at all costs and throw away any tainted buds if it ever happens.
That being said, you want to take as much time to dry your product as you can, without molding it. Chlorophyll gets soaked up by the water, and when the water leaves the flower it takes the chlorophyll with it. This is why our plants go from fresh cut grass after chop, to dank smell after a good cure - the fresh cut grass is a result of the chlorophyll. The longer it takes the water to leave, the more chlorophyll it takes with it - resulting in smoother less harsh smoke, and tastier medication. It's not an exact science, as every grow and strain is different - but this is pretty much the outline of my process below:
Day one: Remove big branches in one piece from the plant, clip all the leaves off it that you can, without removing any buds on the stalk (of course cut yourself a handle, avoid carpal tunnel)..
Day 2-3 proceed to break it down to only the fattest nugs, and densest stalks. Remove excessive stems, but leave tiny buds on the stems (takes longer for them to dry this way). Then I put everything on racks, and let them sit on one side for a day, then I flip them over. This whole time not blowing air on the flowers themselves, but blowing air around the room.
After 3 days the stems should shrink hella, this is where I continue to break down the stalks and remove more and more thick, wet stems.. Once I remove the stems sometimes leaves are hiding in the crevice between the stalk and the bud so I do some extra trimming at this point.
Around day 4-5 we are pretty much watch the finished product dry and wait for it to get *crispy*.
5-7 days of drying later, we are ready to start sweating the buds. I'm finding out this is best to start early, rather than later. Some people in between jars, and screens will use like brown paper bags to draw extra moisture out - but I don't. I go straight from rack to jars, and if they are still really wet I simply leave the jars open for 4 hours twice a day until I can simply burp them a few times a day without worrying about mold.
There are many indicators that a bud is ready to be jarred, some people say wait til the branch snaps, but at that point I think it is already too dry. Wait til the branch bends, and wants to snap but cant, you know? You don't want wet spaghetti stems, but you don't want dry spaghetti stems either. Imagine spritzing a pile of dry spaghetti sticks with water, and then imagine how the spaghetti is still wet, but is still too dry to break. This is where I think you want to stop drying and start curing.
The point at which you decide to stop drying, and start curing is the most important thing that decides how well cured your bud is. There is a perfect window for sure, and it takes a few hands on tries to perfect. I'd say the second most important thing is understanding when your bud needs to breathe, and when it is ready to be opened only once a day. The easiest (third most important) is likely environment, keep humidity from 50-60% (you might find something better but it's what i use), and temp around 72-78 for the entire time your drying.
I go by feel, and smell (if you've smelled moldy bud, you know what it smells like, and what the build up to it smells like).. If it's smelling really damp, nearly sour, like ammonia almost, let it BREATHE! Shake your buds up to get fresh nug surface touching the air and leave the top off til the unplesant smell goes away, then jar it again, check it sometime later and repeat. Every day you cure you get further away from mold/mildew chances.
Your burping schedule should look something like this, but again, think about the above and don't go against instincts, use this as an outline.
Week 1 cure: First few days lid off, sifting buds around to keep the drying even. Being inside glass will make them sweat even if the lids off the mason jar. Last few days add a lid, burping 4-6 times a day if possible for about 10-15 mins each. If you can only burp a few times a day, let the lid stay off longer to make up for it.
week 2 cure: If your not molded by now your on the right track
. Keep following the routine from the end of week 1, and by the end of the week only open 2-4 times a day.week 3 cure: Pretty easy now, open once or twice a day... in the middle of the week let it sit with the lids off for an hour or something, and then see how it is.
week 4 cure: Once a day, if not once every 2 days
Week 4-6 cure: Once every 2 days, if not once every 4 days by week 6.
By week 4, your THC-A has degraded into the psychoactive compound THC. Your weed is now peaking in potency, now is the time to say[brag] to friends, "Hey check THIS stuff out!"
By week 6 your at the best cure possible, week 6-10 it will still be good but after about 10-12 weeks you will notice the smell might dip down a little, and the high will get a little more body and medicative as the THC eventually breaks down into CBN and CBD.
Yeah man, I'll take some pics this morning for you!
Pretty much you get a line of zip ties connected to eachother, and form a band around the pot the plants in. Make it as tight as you can, you will still be able to slip zip ties under neath.
Now on your zip tie pot band, add single zip ties, in rings, to the band. This will be your HOOK or anchor. Now I add a few adjuster zip ties, I add one normal sized zip tie, and then I add a small zip tie to that. Now I pull the branch down where I want it, and use an additional zip tie, to hook the branch to the line of zip ties that eventually hooks to the pot. Now as your branches grow up into the light, you tighten the adjuster zip tie down and it pulls the branch down. You never have to worry about the branch out growing the zip ties, because the loops are very large that are hooked to the actual branch, to adjust, you tighten the zip tie connected to the zip tie that your branch is hooked up to !
(this will ALL make sense with photos trust me don't be nervous about my terrible description).Basically I have like 30 of these hooks at the base of my plant, that are all connected to all the branches up in the screen. I do this as early as possible, so that it's super easy to train my plants when they become huge bushes. Now that they are in flower, all hooked up - if I see one cola, that is a few inches above all the other colas, I reach down to the pot, tug on the ties until I see the branch wiggle that needs adjusting, and literally pull on the zip tie to permanently bring the branch closer to the pot, evening out the level of the flower tops
.
noob78
Active Member
Thank you for coming by Sonar, and yes they seem to be very nute sensitive, i think i'll max out at 900 ppm
noob78
Active Member
thanks I will go back to this oftenGrab a coffee, and a smoke! This could be a long read!
Keep two things in mind, slower the better. & mold is death, avoid at all costs and throw away any tainted buds if it ever happens.
That being said, you want to take as much time to dry your product as you can, without molding it. Chlorophyll gets soaked up by the water, and when the water leaves the flower it takes the chlorophyll with it. This is why our plants go from fresh cut grass after chop, to dank smell after a good cure - the fresh cut grass is a result of the chlorophyll. The longer it takes the water to leave, the more chlorophyll it takes with it - resulting in smoother less harsh smoke, and tastier medication. It's not an exact science, as every grow and strain is different - but this is pretty much the outline of my process below:
Day one: Remove big branches in one piece from the plant, clip all the leaves off it that you can, without removing any buds on the stalk (of course cut yourself a handle, avoid carpal tunnel)..
Day 2-3 proceed to break it down to only the fattest nugs, and densest stalks. Remove excessive stems, but leave tiny buds on the stems (takes longer for them to dry this way). Then I put everything on racks, and let them sit on one side for a day, then I flip them over. This whole time not blowing air on the flowers themselves, but blowing air around the room.
After 3 days the stems should shrink hella, this is where I continue to break down the stalks and remove more and more thick, wet stems.. Once I remove the stems sometimes leaves are hiding in the crevice between the stalk and the bud so I do some extra trimming at this point.
Around day 4-5 we are pretty much watch the finished product dry and wait for it to get *crispy*.
5-7 days of drying later, we are ready to start sweating the buds. I'm finding out this is best to start early, rather than later. Some people in between jars, and screens will use like brown paper bags to draw extra moisture out - but I don't. I go straight from rack to jars, and if they are still really wet I simply leave the jars open for 4 hours twice a day until I can simply burp them a few times a day without worrying about mold.
There are many indicators that a bud is ready to be jarred, some people say wait til the branch snaps, but at that point I think it is already too dry. Wait til the branch bends, and wants to snap but cant, you know? You don't want wet spaghetti stems, but you don't want dry spaghetti stems either. Imagine spritzing a pile of dry spaghetti sticks with water, and then imagine how the spaghetti is still wet, but is still too dry to break. This is where I think you want to stop drying and start curing.
The point at which you decide to stop drying, and start curing is the most important thing that decides how well cured your bud is. There is a perfect window for sure, and it takes a few hands on tries to perfect. I'd say the second most important thing is understanding when your bud needs to breathe, and when it is ready to be opened only once a day. The easiest (third most important) is likely environment, keep humidity from 50-60% (you might find something better but it's what i use), and temp around 72-78 for the entire time your drying.
I go by feel, and smell (if you've smelled moldy bud, you know what it smells like, and what the build up to it smells like).. If it's smelling really damp, nearly sour, like ammonia almost, let it BREATHE! Shake your buds up to get fresh nug surface touching the air and leave the top off til the unplesant smell goes away, then jar it again, check it sometime later and repeat. Every day you cure you get further away from mold/mildew chances.
Your burping schedule should look something like this, but again, think about the above and don't go against instincts, use this as an outline.
Week 1 cure: First few days lid off, sifting buds around to keep the drying even. Being inside glass will make them sweat even if the lids off the mason jar. Last few days add a lid, burping 4-6 times a day if possible for about 10-15 mins each. If you can only burp a few times a day, let the lid stay off longer to make up for it.
week 2 cure: If your not molded by now your on the right track
week 3 cure: Pretty easy now, open once or twice a day... in the middle of the week let it sit with the lids off for an hour or something, and then see how it is.
week 4 cure: Once a day, if not once every 2 days
Week 4-6 cure: Once every 2 days, if not once every 4 days by week 6.
By week 4, your THC-A has degraded into the psychoactive compound THC. Your weed is now peaking in potency, now is the time to say[brag] to friends, "Hey check THIS stuff out!"
By week 6 your at the best cure possible, week 6-10 it will still be good but after about 10-12 weeks you will notice the smell might dip down a little, and the high will get a little more body and medicative as the THC eventually breaks down into CBN and CBD.
Yeah man, I'll take some pics this morning for you!
Pretty much you get a line of zip ties connected to eachother, and form a band around the pot the plants in. Make it as tight as you can, you will still be able to slip zip ties under neath.
Now on your zip tie pot band, add single zip ties, in rings, to the band. This will be your HOOK or anchor. Now I add a few adjuster zip ties, I add one normal sized zip tie, and then I add a small zip tie to that. Now I pull the branch down where I want it, and use an additional zip tie, to hook the branch to the line of zip ties that eventually hooks to the pot. Now as your branches grow up into the light, you tighten the adjuster zip tie down and it pulls the branch down. You never have to worry about the branch out growing the zip ties, because the loops are very large that are hooked to the actual branch, to adjust, you tighten the zip tie connected to the zip tie that your branch is hooked up to !
Basically I have like 30 of these hooks at the base of my plant, that are all connected to all the branches up in the screen. I do this as early as possible, so that it's super easy to train my plants when they become huge bushes. Now that they are in flower, all hooked up - if I see one cola, that is a few inches above all the other colas, I reach down to the pot, tug on the ties until I see the branch wiggle that needs adjusting, and literally pull on the zip tie to permanently bring the branch closer to the pot, evening out the level of the flower tops
Sr. Verde
Well-Known Member
some photos for you.. 
zip ties
main branch, two point tie down because it's too big & strong for just one point.
inside, looking at the main trunks
cheapest/best zip ties.. the plastic tube comes with 4 sizes, and is cheaper per zip tie than vs the 200 pack one size zip tie bags. Go to home depot, and ask for the zip ties and you will see these tubes among the shelves for $8-$12 I can't remember. One tube lasts me about a grow and a half.
zip ties
main branch, two point tie down because it's too big & strong for just one point.
inside, looking at the main trunks
cheapest/best zip ties.. the plastic tube comes with 4 sizes, and is cheaper per zip tie than vs the 200 pack one size zip tie bags. Go to home depot, and ask for the zip ties and you will see these tubes among the shelves for $8-$12 I can't remember. One tube lasts me about a grow and a half.
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tranka32
Active Member
I think you will enjoy this one.
This is my Reserva Pravada Sour Kush. I popped 5 seeds narrowed it down to 1 keeper phenos. This one is Dank, purple stems, heals amazingly when super cropped but new growth isn't very sturdy. I am picky, eh.
The other was fast growing, made huge knuckles when super cropped but the stems were too pithy and broke too easily. I'm not the most gentle soul with my plants. So I ended up with this stinker after cutting some small developing but really dank ones. The smell is def. not my favorite like an earthy faint fuel throw up scent after it rains. It's kinda hard to really describe it. The plant that I was given these seeds from went herm but I figured I would try it out anyway. Hell I need to know what a herm looks like so I will monitor it and force one if this one is stable. The medicine was exactly as described earlier by Sr. Verde. Some of the best in your head meds that I have ever had. I have more seeds and if unable to find a true keeper I will most likely buy some to keep her in my tent for sure! I know the meds I had tested out at 19% Thc...
This is my Reserva Pravada Sour Kush. I popped 5 seeds narrowed it down to 1 keeper phenos. This one is Dank, purple stems, heals amazingly when super cropped but new growth isn't very sturdy. I am picky, eh.
The other was fast growing, made huge knuckles when super cropped but the stems were too pithy and broke too easily. I'm not the most gentle soul with my plants. So I ended up with this stinker after cutting some small developing but really dank ones. The smell is def. not my favorite like an earthy faint fuel throw up scent after it rains. It's kinda hard to really describe it. The plant that I was given these seeds from went herm but I figured I would try it out anyway. Hell I need to know what a herm looks like so I will monitor it and force one if this one is stable. The medicine was exactly as described earlier by Sr. Verde. Some of the best in your head meds that I have ever had. I have more seeds and if unable to find a true keeper I will most likely buy some to keep her in my tent for sure! I know the meds I had tested out at 19% Thc...
noob78
Active Member
Thanks i see what you do now with the zip ties. I will do that with my next grow(Leaning towards vanilla Kush,lol no og 18 or i might go for a sativa but probably the og)some photos for you..
zip ties
main branch, two point tie down because it's too big & strong for just one point.
inside, looking at the main trunks
cheapest/best zip ties.. the plastic tube comes with 4 sizes, and is cheaper per zip tie than vs the 200 pack one size zip tie bags. Go to home depot, and ask for the zip ties and you will see these tubes among the shelves for $8-$12 I can't remember. One tube lasts me about a grow and a half.
noob78
Active Member
looks real nice DSB65, No lie i think mine might have been abit smaller than yours, and crapped on me for the first week and half, over feeding but she came to life for me and been real stable, just doesnt like heavy nutes, and clones real easy. And thanks for stopping ini got a dna sour kush going...have high hopes for her...pic at 1 month...
Sr. Verde
Well-Known Member
for sure!
it can be a lot of work at the start, which is why I start early and slow.. then it makes training during the stretch phase as easy as pulling a zip tie together.
Good luck with the vanilla kush, i'd be interested to see how it grows. I think next run I'll either do RP: Confidental Cheese or dinafem: white widow. Both I have freebies of, gonna get my monies worth before I buy new seeds.
PS: You say your headband doesn't like heavy nutes? Mine was absolutely going through the nitrogen from the last week of veg to about day 28 flower. I was feeding 25 mL grow big and 10mL tiger bloom.. As a comparison I just fed my plants that are twice as big 10mL tiger bloom and 10mL big bloom.
it can be a lot of work at the start, which is why I start early and slow.. then it makes training during the stretch phase as easy as pulling a zip tie together.
Good luck with the vanilla kush, i'd be interested to see how it grows. I think next run I'll either do RP: Confidental Cheese or dinafem: white widow. Both I have freebies of, gonna get my monies worth before I buy new seeds
.PS: You say your headband doesn't like heavy nutes? Mine was absolutely going through the nitrogen from the last week of veg to about day 28 flower. I was feeding 25 mL grow big and 10mL tiger bloom.. As a comparison I just fed my plants that are twice as big 10mL tiger bloom and 10mL big bloom.