True HP Aero For 2011

BflexNJshore

BflexNJshore

Well-Known Member
Trichy Bastard said:
Yes- I have used the liquid nitrogen and it burned those suckers right off my hand ;) hehe

Ok kidding- IDK anyone else using one, but that doesn't mean it isn't good for the job- let us know how it works. Not sure exactly what you mean about about having to clear the chiller of nutes? One way it has been done is to use an ice chest or whatever with recirculating water from your chiller, then run some coils of the line leaving your accumulator in the cold water bath before your solenoid. The nutes should cool down right before being sprayed... ;)
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I was gonna use the wort chiller in the reservoir, people use them with ebb and flow, hybrid nft etc..

using the chiller with out a wort chiller:the nute water circulates inside the chiller via a small pump in the reservoir (so when you do a water change, you have to clear the old nutes out of the chiller)

instead of circulating the water inside the chiller, the wort chiller is immersed in the reservoir and a separate reservoir with dedicated water circulates and chills the nute water by contact.

BTW I ended up scrapping the cooler as a mounting platform, too complicated. Just mounting everything to a panel now.
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
BflexNJshore said:
I was gonna use the wort chiller in the reservoir, people use them with ebb and flow, hybrid nft etc..

using the chiller with out a wort chiller:the nute water circulates inside the chiller via a small pump in the reservoir (so when you do a water change, you have to clear the old nutes out of the chiller)

instead of circulating the water inside the chiller, the wort chiller is immersed in the reservoir and a separate reservoir with dedicated water circulates and chills the nute water by contact.

BTW I ended up scrapping the cooler as a mounting platform, too complicated. Just mounting everything to a panel now.
Click to expand...
Understood, although the chiller holds very little water, and it, with a short run of line should amount to a quart or less. The thing you'll have to wrap your head around is the nutes are used quite slowly, and after leaving the res, they fill the accumulator tank and sit in there for hours if not days until the next pump recharge. You'll have to either keep the accumulator really insulated, or use the method I described to chill after it. I suppose another approach would be to chill the accumulator itself in a small refrigerator. You can definitely immerse the wort chiller in an ice chest with water and your coils of nute lines between the accumulator's exit and the solenoid just before your nozzles.
 
hammer21

hammer21

Well-Known Member
In general, all other things being 'equal' an AC actuated coil will reach higher armature speeds than an equivalent DC operated coil. This is because AC coils are generally designed to use the armature inductance to provide increased inductive reactance after the armature is pulled in. This limits the current in the coil after the armature is pulled in to a safe, constant level. However, this also allows much higher current flow when the armature is NOT pulled in, creating a larger magnetic field. This is also why you can burn out a coil on an AC valve if the spool doesn't move. This doesn't happen on DC coils.


However, it is the response consistency of AC versus DC that will ultimately determine your success. The actuation to actuation consistency with DC is much better than with AC. This consistent delay allows the user to account for the delay and know it is close to the same every time. So while it in not technically faster it is much more repeatable.


 
hammer21

hammer21

Well-Known Member
Dok A/C coils are fine to use for our application if using a metal base valve just put a ground on it to be within code.
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Atomizer said:
Chilling the accumulator will mess with the air precharge, its better to cool the nutes en route.
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Good point, thanks for the logic. I suppose if had to do you could just adjust the precharge at the new temperature in the fridge? Either way, still much easier chilling the lines :)
 
DoktorD1313

DoktorD1313

Member
Well I have my solenoids all hooked up/wired up and I haveta say I love this Elite 1 timer! The push button interval selectors and digital readouts are awesome. Unnecessary? Well, maybe... but in my mind well worth it to visually see the cycle times progress. I definitely feel like I made the right choice.
 
hammer21

hammer21

Well-Known Member
The terms are defined in Article 100 and 250.2 of the NEC. Section 250.4 provides the requirements of artical 250. Also you should always use GFCI
 
DoktorD1313

DoktorD1313

Member
So remembering something at work yesterday got me thinking...

I wasn't really keen on using white PEX or translucent polyethylene tubing because of the grow light and the potential for growth inside my tubing and I've been trying to think of a way of "shielding" the tubing as suggested to me previously in the thread.

I then remembered that I have a defective "bug zapper" at work that someone returned because it no longer "zapped". I was contemplating taking just the bulb and ballast and mounting it above my reservoir (enclosed and waterproof of course) on a timer to see if I couldn't control the algae/mold population before the water even makes it to the tubing. It's a 1 acre model which uses two 40W UV bulbs (not blacklight, but UV).

I've been searching for technical data on the bulb (B4040-4N) to see exactly what kind of UV wavelength it puts out (it also gives off some visible light). I'm not sure if it would have enough light in the correct spectrum range to sterilize, but it's a thought!

What do you guys think?

**EDIT**

On second thought, I'd be concerned it would tamper with the chemical composition of the nutrients in the water... *sigh* I really thought I had a nice little idea there for a while.
 
D

DIYer

Well-Known Member
You could just wrap the line with black electrical tape, only .50 a roll at home de pot. I did it with a longer clear tube I fitted onto a Camelback once upon a time, that tube is always in the sun. and never any alge.
.02 cents
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
You could buy insulation tubing at Lowes/HD. Cheap cuts easy. It's in the plumbing section. Used for ac copper tubing, or hot water heater
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
DoktorD1313 said:
So remembering something at work yesterday got me thinking...

I wasn't really keen on using white PEX or translucent polyethylene tubing because of the grow light and the potential for growth inside my tubing and I've been trying to think of a way of "shielding" the tubing as suggested to me previously in the thread.

I then remembered that I have a defective "bug zapper" at work that someone returned because it no longer "zapped". I was contemplating taking just the bulb and ballast and mounting it above my reservoir (enclosed and waterproof of course) on a timer to see if I couldn't control the algae/mold population before the water even makes it to the tubing. It's a 1 acre model which uses two 40W UV bulbs (not blacklight, but UV).

I've been searching for technical data on the bulb (B4040-4N) to see exactly what kind of UV wavelength it puts out (it also gives off some visible light). I'm not sure if it would have enough light in the correct spectrum range to sterilize, but it's a thought!

What do you guys think?

**EDIT**

On second thought, I'd be concerned it would tamper with the chemical composition of the nutrients in the water... *sigh* I really thought I had a nice little idea there for a while.
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Don't bother because 6 drops of bleach per gallon works quite well. Most people don't realize that chlorine is an essential element for plants anyway. They can handle higher concentrations just fine, and that amount is similar to what's in your tap anyway. I started using peroxide thinking it's be safer, but to be honest the bleach has better staying power and just seems a better choice now imo.
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
PetFlora said:
You could buy insulation tubing at Lowes/HD. Cheap cuts easy. It's in the plumbing section. Used for ac copper tubing, or hot water heater
Click to expand...
Yes, I am putting this stuff to work in my systems as well, to clarify better, it's the foam tubes that clamp around the pipes to insulate them. You could use any other larger diameter tubing to surround your lines as well as I think Atomizer mentioned recently. Don't know about you, but I'd hate to sit around rolling electrical tape on my tubing all day if I had anymore than a few feet.
 
D

dickkhead

Active Member
tb after reading that g- loves thread I need one of those atomix lol Id pay the price you get it back in 1 grow!! anyine no where to get one or the parts to replicate it?

edit: never mind the next atomix is in your signature:)
 
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