AACT, Bloom Tea, Veg Tea, Fungal Tea, Myco Tea, recipes from the outdoor guys.
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puppasmurf
Member
good choice. most of the serious organic growers use a heavily amended super soil mixed with some very heavy teas.
its VERY hard to actually burn plants when using organics properly.
What are we meaning by saying Amended oranic growers? correct em if im wrong does it mean. Organic soil mixed with compost or peat moss coco perlite?
Triggertrevor
Active Member
Phi zipper I'm very new to teas and would love some advise on your teas and your soil mixes.
Cherrs
Corbat420
Well-Known Member
Actualy using Heavily amended SOILS means using more nutrients than the plants can up-take.
AKA mixing 150 ML Blood meal + 150 ML Bat guano (N) to 5 gallons of soil. the N produced over the course of time makes it so the plant allways has N available to it, Bat guano's for short term and Blood meal for the long term.
This can be done with every nutrient a plant needs. Adding a Heavy Tea on top of this makes it so the plant has literally 110% of the nutrients it needs to live, without burning the plants....
Subcools Supersoil is an example of Heavily amended super soils:
Am I the only one that burned the plant with AACT? For me it seems that every time I use one, the plant is getting burned a little.
My last recipe is:
1 Gallon of water
1 Tea Spoon Molasses
Half a cup on Worm Castings
Handful of Alfalfa Hay
1 sheet of Kelp
1 sheet of Nori (sushi sea weed)
2 Table spoons of shrimp waste
Using about 1part water 3parts tea.
My last recipe is:
1 Gallon of water
1 Tea Spoon Molasses
Half a cup on Worm Castings
Handful of Alfalfa Hay
1 sheet of Kelp
1 sheet of Nori (sushi sea weed)
2 Table spoons of shrimp waste
Using about 1part water 3parts tea.
Corbat420
Well-Known Member
have you checked to make sure they are fertilizer grade ingredients?
if they are not food / fertilizer grade then they can change the PH of the Tea drastically and cause lock-out. i recently locked out my plants because i accidently spiked the PH to 7.5.... VERY bad, 1 full point above normal...
The PH spiked because i didn't identify s batch of wood ashes.... ALLWAYS make sure you check your ingredients.
I am not sure what fertilizer grade ingredients are to be honest. I never hears of organic fertilize grade ingredients. Honestly that sounds kinda stupid.
But all ingredients I use are bought from different stores.
Molasses - Health store
Worm Castings - Local Farm
Alfalfa - Pet store
Kelp and Nori - Asian grocery store
Shrimp waste - waste from eatable shrimps.
Corbat420
Well-Known Member
its NOT stuff from a gerocery store or pet store, thats for sure....
View attachment 2140942
Fertalizer grade bat guano. its PH'ed at 6.5, N-P-K of 1-10-0.2, has many trace elements and can be made readily available for plant uptake.
Things that are made for humans and fish have a totally different make up than things made for plants.....
2Corbat bat guano is quite a particular example:
1. People or animals usually do not eat bat guano
2. Most of bat guano is pasteurized, as most, not all, bats are carnivorous.
Compost piles are usually done with leftover of what you eat or buy. Worms are usually fed same things you might eat, or newspapers. I do not think my grandmother used to buy "fertilized" grade food for her compost.
I am not saying that there is no such things, but based on my reading and common sense, fertilizer grade ingredients is more of a marketing.
2tripboufe, I am not just a noob in this area, so I would not follow my steps, but experimenting is definitely good. Alfalfa adds Nitrogen and give food for bacteria, also adds some micro nutrients for the plant. If you google a bit, there are Alfalfa Teas. It's pretty cheap so I decided to use it.
1. People or animals usually do not eat bat guano
2. Most of bat guano is pasteurized, as most, not all, bats are carnivorous.
Compost piles are usually done with leftover of what you eat or buy. Worms are usually fed same things you might eat, or newspapers. I do not think my grandmother used to buy "fertilized" grade food for her compost.
I am not saying that there is no such things, but based on my reading and common sense, fertilizer grade ingredients is more of a marketing.
2tripboufe, I am not just a noob in this area, so I would not follow my steps, but experimenting is definitely good. Alfalfa adds Nitrogen and give food for bacteria, also adds some micro nutrients for the plant. If you google a bit, there are Alfalfa Teas. It's pretty cheap so I decided to use it.
Corbat420
Well-Known Member
People dont eat Cow manure ethier, Yet we know how good it is for growing plants.... Hmmm.... Also, Guano's and Manures Pastureize themselves. its a well known fact that poop heats up as it degrades, when in large piles it pasturizes its self when turned.
#1 compost piles, Especialy OLD compost piles (From way back in the day) were made up of Naturaly grown organic mulch. if you had a compost, it was because you had a garden... the compost is a Direct result of things Humans do not eat....
#2 Your Grama's compost would have been made specificly from things humans DONT eat. remember, 50+ years ago people ate EVERYTHING on their plates. the husks and shells were the only things thrown away.
Based on common sense you would THINK and realize "Oh shit, if i put Alfalfa that PH 5 into my PH 7 soil, it will Mess shit up". THATS common sense..... but common sense isn't so common anymore, we have gone through a massive dumbing down of society.
Do you suggest using human's, dog's and other carnivorous manures then? Even after composting?
Even supposing this is true, there were no leftovers and everybody ate everything on their plates. The shells and husk are still from the same products. They were never PHed or processed in any way. I bet most of the old farmers do not even know what PH is and what it's for. My grandparents for sure do not.
In theory the soil should be able to balance the PH back to normal, even if the PH of the nutes is of. Practically I would not be so certain, but I would like to know who PHs their compost for example. Or any of the ingredients that are being used.
To be honest, how do you imagine alfalfa's or kelp's acidity being adjust, ffs they are plants.
Corbat420
Well-Known Member
Actualy, i Learned from FDD2BLK that Carnivorous Guano's are good. hell, Great even. Carnivorous bat guano, Cat feces and dog feces (if composted) supply tonnes of N and K to plants....
No actualy, soils range a HUGE amount. the Soils in my area (Pine forest) are around 5.7, where as the Soils in an Equatorial Rainforest are closer to 8..... Different plants need different things.....
Only certain varieties of Kelp and Alfalfa are used for agricultural use. all of Which have had a full analysis done of the nutrients involved.... like i said before, Different plants need different things.
To be Honest, you should RESEARCH before opening your mouth..... look to the left, Below my Avatar, see the Journal entries: 1... Go there... learn....
those are from the University of Montana, Nutrient Management Program. Read them and learn how plants work, it will save you alot of stress in the long run....
P.S: Just for the record, Farmers have been "Balancing the soil" AKA Balancing the PH levels for hundreds of years. thats why in the 1300's English farmers would rotate crops using the 3 Crop system..... Every 2 years the crops would be rotated and mulch would be added the the one field not being used... to add nutrients and balance the PH
Kalyx
Active Member
This is a great thread. Thanks for starting/compiling this malignant. I had this posted somewhere else but it seems a more relevant side by side for this thread. I got started on this cause someone was asking if anyone ever ran any roots brand soil, and these ladies loved their 707 mix! This side by side test was the second to last run I did before switching to try out Rize Up style veganic grows for the utmost quality claims, which involves a lot of beneficial microbes via compost tea (every other watering for me). Anyway...
Just took a smooth toke of some of the AACT plants' buds topped of with 38 micron wax made with the sugar leaves. MMMmmm orangey!
So needless to say I really liked the results of the test. AACT is really great because it gives me, the grower (no one else is more tuned in to them than dad), the ability to make my own custom nutrient. AND this nutrient source is much more affordable as far of cost of inputs compared to relying on bottled products. I like that I can easily obtain some of the ingredients at stores I get my own food from and agree that there is no need for "fertilizer grade" this sounds like the marketing dept. to me! It IS important to source the purest actually organic inputs you can IMO (water too), and local is extra sweet if you can find the right connections (i.e. get inputs for free or trade). TIME is to be considered too; to make the RO amount needed, put together the materials in the sock 24-36 hours before you need it, bubble for one hour THEN feed them, preparing 'santa's beard' in advance to give fungi a head start, etc. But its nothing a good calendar/alarms on the phone can't facilitate! Time is really all we have, I am not opposed to dedicating a bit more to my garden, this wonderful resin does so much for me in return!
My big questions to ask the organic AACT forum are about dilution:
1. Who dilutes, if so, what is your approximate dilution ratio and what are your inputs per gallon, if not, how heavy per gallon are your inputs?
2. Why do you think this is/isn't necessary for your roots/media/application techniques?
- This round also in Roots 707 watered every 4-5 days. Both plants are Subs Agent Orange. Left plant was fed GO full line and yielded 130 grams of high quality. Right plant was fed ONLY (~24 hour brewed) compost Tea's based on Vital Earth's chart every other watering(just not using all THEIR products)(yes, i did use that much guano and it did not burn my plant, it loved it actually, I know its not vegan but it was a big learning experience on the power of AACTs for me) and she yielded 138 grams of higher quality, much more complex flavor profile and denser, stickier nugs! AACT for the win!!! The AACT plant didn't look bigger at all but weighed in more, and sure was prettier!
- Agent Pics: 1)Both plants under 1000w 2)Detail comparison (GO left, AACT right) 3)GO detail 4)AACT detail 5)AACT detail @8wks 6)AACT detail on trim table
Just took a smooth toke of some of the AACT plants' buds topped of with 38 micron wax made with the sugar leaves. MMMmmm orangey!
So needless to say I really liked the results of the test. AACT is really great because it gives me, the grower (no one else is more tuned in to them than dad), the ability to make my own custom nutrient. AND this nutrient source is much more affordable as far of cost of inputs compared to relying on bottled products. I like that I can easily obtain some of the ingredients at stores I get my own food from and agree that there is no need for "fertilizer grade" this sounds like the marketing dept. to me! It IS important to source the purest actually organic inputs you can IMO (water too), and local is extra sweet if you can find the right connections (i.e. get inputs for free or trade). TIME is to be considered too; to make the RO amount needed, put together the materials in the sock 24-36 hours before you need it, bubble for one hour THEN feed them, preparing 'santa's beard' in advance to give fungi a head start, etc. But its nothing a good calendar/alarms on the phone can't facilitate! Time is really all we have, I am not opposed to dedicating a bit more to my garden, this wonderful resin does so much for me in return!
My big questions to ask the organic AACT forum are about dilution:
1. Who dilutes, if so, what is your approximate dilution ratio and what are your inputs per gallon, if not, how heavy per gallon are your inputs?
2. Why do you think this is/isn't necessary for your roots/media/application techniques?
No doubt that carnivorous manure is nutrition. But I always read that it's use is not advised in crops. But sure, feel free to use any kind of shit when you grow for yourself.
Really, 0_o source please!
I never said that the soil is the always the same acidity. My point was, if your soil neutral for example (7), by adding nutrient with acidity level of 6, you wont dis-balance the soil PH level. It will maintain it self a 7. Of course, after years of abuse you can harm it.
And they still did not know what PH was! They did what they observed helped them. They still used non PHed water. Non PHed compost and non PHed elements. And somehow, miraculously, they still were manage to survive winters eating their harvests.
SirLancelot
Active Member
Chicken poop is pretty bomb for your soil too. keep a few in your garden let em eat the bugs off your plants and shit all over.
SirLancelot
Active Member
ah man was just going to say this that's why they people in Europe had to rotate corn crops. Just a little history lesson bet you didn't know that the Industrial Revolution in Great Britain is due to the introduction of the Potato to the diet in Europe. When people grow corn it takes alot of nutrients out of the soils and such which is why they rotate (we all know this, just clarifying). Once the potato was introduced they were now able to plant in all their fields without problems of rotating thus they could produce more food. Once they started producing more food their population BOOMEd I don't know the statistics off hand but there is a huge coorelation between the introduction of the Potato and the population boom. anyways now that they don't have a scarce food and are able to maintain bigger populations and essentially have time to do other things than just farm food... the Industrial Revolution was born..
Sorry that was my morning rant to go with my coffee and blunt.
Happy growings..
Oh BTW Teas ROCK! I used to make em just for my MJ now they get jealous because all my plants and garden get them
Just curious what does everyone do with the sludge in the bottome of your teas? I just throw mine in the compost...
SirLancelot
Active Member
tweazers and magnifying glasses hunched over a table for 8hrs a day hahaha