HPS Bulb Differences?

Kite High

Well-Known Member
Cool.. That was just an example of a really good mh thats better than ome from a hydro shop. Like I said before the aquarium community has made great advances in blue bulbs over the years but just recently started to make good red bulbs. But he can usev
that for veg and te last week of flower. In the first post I said the best hps spectrum I could find is digilux from c.a.p./ discount hydro. There is another hps I found called maverick sun. But I havent found it in the stores and ive emailed that company several times. And no response.

Also with the t5 ive tried different combos of bulbs over a year span. Til I gotvthe combo I got now. I still want to try a different combo. 4 zoomed flora sun, 3 uvl redsun, 1 wave point coral wave. Also for coral waves dont use more than 1 per 8 bulb. It puts out a lot of infrared. When I had 2 of them. Towards the end of flower there would start to be light bleaching and or leaves drying out and curling at ends mimicing symptoms of under watering.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_01209884000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=33-22866552-2
 

pharmacoping

Active Member
/
how is that misinformed. i layed out documented facts and proof and yet you didnt even read it or look at it.

i did a side by side with a t5 and 1000w with hortilux for 4 batches.the yield was the same each time per area and plant except for the first batch where hps yielded 10% more but used shitty soil that time. the quality of t5 has far surpasseed hps.


look at my journal or go to thread

https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/358190-led-without-leds-my-first.html
. i

t5's with coral and fresh wateral bulbs already been proven and documented several times by me and other people on here and scientists at University of Maryland, University of Missouri, Washington State, Texas A&M, University of Alabama, oxford University.. read the articles i posted before passing judgement with such an ignorant response. hid is 10 % PAR. my t5's are 90% PAR. the sun is !00% PAR


I do keep my t5 3 inches from canopy. yes hps will have more intensity because its a single point of light.

inverse square law.http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/forces/isq.html

the t5 also acts like a light mover where its not a single point of light and the light output is across 4 ft. way less heat and like having it closer. the buds actually do get bigger under the t5. provided you get enough oxygen to the roots.


Im just saying what I do, i answered the hps question with facts not myth. do what you want or what ever works for you.


also I have to wear uv glasses when in the garden. all the uv-a ,uv-b, and infrared is very bad for the eyes

yadi yadi yadi...all good in veg, but when it comes time to flower there is very little penetration into the canopy. thats why your buds are so small, and your plants have tons of unburned carbs in them, regardless of your flushing techniques. imo
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
yadi yadi yadi...all good in veg, but when it comes time to flower there is very little penetration into the canopy. thats why your buds are so small, and your plants have tons of unburned carbs in them, regardless of your flushing techniques. imo
sorry hater Im 100% organic. I only feed with guano teas. unburned carbs....? you dont want them to be yellow when done. you want them to be green. yellow means they are deficient, Unbalanced nutrition

pure indicas which don't yield much. sativas produce the giant colas but i don't like sativas


IMG_20120223_223213.jpgIMG_20120223_223222.jpgIMG_20120220_011826.jpgIMG_20120223_223137.jpgIMG_20120223_223203.jpgIMG_20120204_062935.jpgIMG_20120116_193828.jpgIMG_20120121_164316.jpgIMG_20120121_164330.jpgIMG_20120121_164412.jpgIMG_20120121_164444.jpgIMG_20120204_062929.jpgIMG_20111005_175715.jpgIMG_20111027_195157.jpg

Vertical t5 grow
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hyroot

Well-Known Member
Nutrient fundamentals and uptake:

Until recently it was common thought that all nutrients are absorbed by plant roots as ions of mineral elements. However in newer studies more and more evidence emerged that additionally plant roots are capable of taking up complex organic molecules like amino acids directly thus bypassing the mineralization process.

The major nutrient uptake processes are:

1) Active transport mechanism into root hairs (the plant has to put energy in it, ATP driven) which is selective to some degree. This is one way the plant (being immobile) can adjust to the environment.

2) Passive transport (diffusion) through symplast to endodermis.
Lecture Notes:, Transport and Nutrition in Plants, Bio 102
http://www.hort.wisc.edu/cran/Publications/2001 Proceedings/min_nutr.pdf

The claim only ‘chemical’ ferted plants need to be flushed should be taken with a grain of salt. Organic and synthetic ferted plants take up mineral ions alike, probably to a different degree though. Many influences play key roles in the taste and flavor of the final bud, like the nutrition balance and strength throughout the entire life cycle of the plant, the drying and curing process and other environmental conditions.

3) Active transport mechanism of organic molecules into root hairs via endocytosis.
Elisabeth Holland

Here is a simplified overview of nutrient functions:
Nitrogen is needed to build chlorophyll, amino acids, and proteins. Phosphorus is necessary for photosynthesis and other growth processes. Potassium is utilized to form sugar and starch and to activate enzymes. Magnesium also plays a role in activating enzymes and is part of chlorophyll. Calcium is used during cell growth and division and is part of the cell wall. Sulfur is part of amino acids and proteins.

Plants also require trace elements, which include boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, sodium, zinc, molybdenum, nickel, cobalt, and silicon.

Copper, iron, and manganese are used in photosynthesis. Molybdenum, nickel, and cobalt are necessary for the movement of nitrogen in the plant. Boron is important for reproduction, while chlorine stimulates root growth and development. Sodium benefits the movement of water within the plant and zinc is neeeded for enzymes and used in auxins (organic plant hormones). Finally, silicon helps to build tough cell walls for better heat and drought tolerance.
Sidwell Friends School » News and Events

You can get an idea from this how closely all the essential elements are involved in the many metabolic processes within the plant, often relying on each other.

Nutrient movement and mobility inside the plant:
Besides endocytosis, there are two major pathways inside the plant, the xylem and the phloem. When water and minerals are absorbed by plant roots, these substances must be transported up to the plant's stems and leaves for photosynthesis and further metabolic processes. This upward transport happens in the xylem. While the xylem is able to transport organic compounds, the phloem is much more adapted to do so.

The organic compounds thus originating in the leaves have to be moved throughout the plant, upwards and downwards, to where they are needed. This transport happens in the phloem. Compounds that are moving through the phloem are mostly:
Sugars as sugary saps, organic nitrogen compounds (amino acids and amides, ureides and legumes), hormones and proteins.
Sirius Systems, Inc.

Not all nutrient compounds are moveable within the plant.

1) N, P, K, Mg and S are considered mobile: they can move up and down the plant in both xylem and phloem.
Deficiency appears on old leaves first.

2) Ca, Fe, Zn, Mo, B, Cu, Mn are considered immobile: they only move up the plant in the xylem.
Deficiency appears on new leaves first.
HORT 201 & 202 Home Page

Storage organelles:
Salts and organic metabolites can be stored in storage organelles. The most important storage organelle is the vacuole, which can contribute up to 90% of the cell volume. The majority of compounds found in the vacuole are sugars, polysaccharides, organic acids and proteins though.
http://jeb.biologists.org.pdf

Translocation:
Now that the basics are explained, we can take a look at the translocation process. It should be already clear that only mobile elements can be translocated through the phloem. Immobile elements cant be translocated and are not more available to the plant for further metabolic processes and new plant growth.

Since flushing (in theory) induces a nutrient deficiency in the rootzone, the translocation process aids in the plants survival. Translocation is transportation of assimilates through the phloem from source (a net exporter of assimilate) to sink (a net importer of assimilate). Sources are mostly mature fan leaves and sinks are mostly apical meristems, lateral meristem, fruit, seed and developing leaves etc.

You can see this by the yellowing and later dying of the mature fan leaves from the second day on after flushing started. Developing leaves, bud leaves and calyxes don’t serve as sources, they are sinks. Changes in those plant parts are due to the deficient immobile elements which start to indicate on new growth first.

Unfortunately, several metabolic processes are unable to take place anymore since other elements needed are no longer available (the immobile ones). This includes processes where nitrogen and phosphorus, which have likely the most impact on taste, are involved.

For example nitrogen: usually plants use nitrogen to form plant proteins. Enzyme systems rapidly reduce nitrate-N (NO3-) to compounds that are used to build amino-nitrogen which is the basis for amino acids. Amino acids are building blocks for proteins, most of them are plant enzymes responsible for all the chemical changes important for plant growth.

Sulfur and calcium among others have major roles in production and activating of proteins, thereby decreasing nitrate within the plant. Excess nitrate within the plant may result from unbalanced nutrition rather than an excess of nitrogen.

University of Missouri Extension Home
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
could you please share the model names and numbers for 4 ft T5 630 and 660 nm ho bulbs?
Red 630nm UV lighting redsun http://www.hellolights.com/48hot5redsun54w-uvlighting.aspx
View attachment 2092466

660nm red zoo med flora sun http://www.aquariumguys.com/zoo-med-flora-sun-max-plant-growth-t5-ho-fluorescent-lamp-46in-54w.html
View attachment 2092470

Then Wave point is releasing a 660nm bulb very soon called ultra cola or ultra growth
ultra cola.jpg


hagen and sylvania sell awesome 660nm bulbs but they have to be ordered from the u.k.


also you want one per 8 bulb. for blue actinics / uv-a and 760nm infrared (dense buds) wave point coral wave
http://www.hellolights.com/24whot5coralwave-wavepoint-1.aspx

coral wave.png
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
link for verification...it is blue regardless of phase which inhibits stretch...unless some very recent white paper has been published, which demonstrates this... and if so please guide me to it..again thank you... i am using aquamedic plant t5 peak 650 and actinic plus t5 450 nm peak for supplementals with two 400 watt CMH on movers overhead
the aquamedic planta is cool. the older version of it had higher peaks of red. the zoo med flora sun has about 20% higher peak than the newer aquamedic planta. The actinic plus is great too.

http://jxb.oxfordjournals.org/content/61/11/3107.full
 

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
You don't have to disgard your HID to run t5's. With a single 1kw setup I skirt my table with 300w's of t5 daylight tubes.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
i so jacked this thread. sorry bro!

true but i only have so much room and i run less wattage and no heat and no ventilation:hump: and my t5's produce so much better quality. just like plant nutrition, given the right lighting that a plant needs can produce some of the best quality / potency / flavor / aroma.

in one room i have an 8 bulb and a 16 bulb. covering the same area as 2 1k's which would pull at 8.9 amps each, 2136 watts total and my t5's pull 1468 watts total
 

Alexander Supertramp

Well-Known Member
I'm going to STRONGLY disagree with ALL of this. To the OP; in bulbs as with in a lot of things; higher quality will cost more but also give you better results. Spend the extra money for a Hortilux, Digilux, Sunmaster, etc... bulb. They will last longer and produce a broader spectrum for you.
Strongly disagreeing shows what little you know....Hyroot pretty much nailed it. And did it in a very articulate and understandable manner....
 

Alexander Supertramp

Well-Known Member
lumens don't mean shit! lumens by definition is visible light to the human eye. we see greens an yellows. plants see reds and blues. what you want is high PAR. photosynthetically availavable radiation. - the number of photons between 400nm and 700nm. also some uv-a around 380nm and some ir around 740nm or 760 nm. so far for hps all i found with best spectrum is the digiliux enhanced blue hps. basically you want bulbs high blues and reds. low greens and yellows.

In the u.k. and the netherlands they are using high par hid bulbs but you would have to do some research on which ones. order from there. it will be a few years until there are good spectrum hps bulbs available in the U.S. you can find some great mh bulbs from aquarium shops though..

.http://www.hellolights.com/Radium-400.aspx
View attachment 2087754


personally i use t5 lights with aquarium bulbs. got rid of my hid's. (better spectrum- more usable light - better quality)
A well written and correct post.....
 

phillipchristian

New Member
Strongly disagreeing shows what little you know....Hyroot pretty much nailed it. And did it in a very articulate and understandable manner....
You might actually want to read the entire thread and then make comments. You, your 15 posts, and your eagerness to jump on my initial comment show EXACTLY how little you know. In the future it would be a good idea if you actually read before opening your mouth.
 

phillipchristian

New Member
Like I said Hyroot, the bud density just isn't there. Look what you had to do just to get that plant int he last pictures? Those are 2 $300 Quantumn T5 setups and the bud density and size are still very small. Show me how to get fat colas with fluoros on my 5-6' plants and I'm all over it. Just don't tell me I have to spend $750 more in lighting per plant.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
sorry hater Im 100% organic. I only feed with guano teas. unburned carbs....? you dont want them to be yellow when done. you want them to be green. yellow means they are deficient, Unbalanced nutrition

pure indicas which don't yield much. sativas produce the giant colas but i don't like sativas


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Vertical t5 grow
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i agree with you 100% about all the fact your putting out but your a little opinionated, with out hid you have a height restriction i mean look at you own pics you have to have side lighting that close to 2 plants in a 10x10x8 with all t5 and you want your plants to be as tall as you well your talking 4k-5kw of HID or the same # of fluoro (wattage wise) you coul probably flower the whole room but how much space is consumed by the lights and how much height are you going to lose? 2-3 ft. on all sides. another thing is on the third pic i wanna see yard stick and the lower buds so i can determine what the effective distance is from lights. but all in all t5 is for small compact grows and vegging IMO

and look at your bud, nice as they are, they aren't ripe enough for me which kinda shows that fluoro take longer to get ripe bud(when to harvest is personal thing i am not saying the bud is not ripe just not where i would want it to be) and the yellowing/purpleing/whitening of a plant is normal i fed all organic for a long time that effect is really strain dependent. but i will say they stay greener than with chemical nutes. but that really play into the process of nutrien uptake. as far as density goes those look like some nice dense nugs so i dont really see a problem there with flouro, my first time flowering was with t12 fluoros and i got some pretty big dense nugs for a first timer
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
.for one the pics of plants were at 4 weeks and 6 weeks. Not even done yet. If you have grown you could tell that. The finished buds are very ripe. The trichomes are mostly amber. More cbd. No density......??? Are you kidding they are rock hard buds. The buds come out more denser under the t5 morevthan the 1k because I have a bulb that puts out 35% infrared. Like I said I do pure indicas. I dont fuck wuth sativas. If you ever grown a pure indica. You would know even under 4 1k's the buds only get so big. Thy stop growing taller once they reach a certain height. Sativas veg fast amd produce giamt colas but take 3 or 4 weeks longer to finish. In that time ill have anither batch ready ( perpetual ).

My quantums I paid $200 for 8 bulb and $380 for 16 bulb fixture. Plus bulbs. So around $950 total. I cover a 5x6.5.

Get that in that plant in the last pic....... What......? That does not make any sense. To.get in the pic. All I had to do was aim the camera and push the button.
 

phillipchristian

New Member
.for one the pics of plants were at 4 weeks and 6 weeks. Not even done yet. If you have grown you could tell that. The finished buds are very ripe. The trichomes are mostly amber. More cbd. No density......??? Are you kidding they are rock hard buds. The buds come out more denser under the t5 morevthan the 1k because I have a bulb that puts out 35% infrared. Like I said I do pure indicas. I dont fuck wuth sativas. If you ever grown a pure indica. You would know even under 4 1k's the buds only get so big. Thy stop growing taller once they reach a certain height. Sativas veg fast amd produce giamt colas but take 3 or 4 weeks longer to finish. In that time ill have anither batch ready ( perpetual ).

My quantums I paid $200 for 8 bulb and $380 for 16 bulb fixture. Plus bulbs. So around $950 total. I cover a 5x6.5.

Get that in that plant in the last pic....... What......? That does not make any sense. To.get in the pic. All I had to do was aim the camera and push the button.
Take it how you want to but I was the FIRST one in this thread to say that you brought a logical and intelligent argument. I listened to you, asked questions, and even defended you. So you wana jump down my throat because you MISREAD my post. Pull it together buddy. Now I don't have any patience for you. I said "Look what you had to do to get the PLANT in that last picture" meaning you had to hang $950 worth of lights and bulbs vertically around 1-2 plants just to get some popcorn and buds that aren't that big. I produce buds twice that size under a 1000w light and my yield is 4 times that. So if you wanna hang $1000 around 1 plant to get some nice little nugs then go for it. Won't work for the majority of us and definitely not for anyone who grows commercially. Saying that I would know "if I had ever grown" was just a petty attempt by you to make a snide remark at me because YOU THOUGHT I was talking shit when in reality I wasn't. Fact of the matter is you lost all credibility in my book when you decided to become a dick. Your buds are small. If they were week 6 then they aren't getting much bigger. The buds in your harvest pics were small as well. I like fat, dense colas and so do the people that buy my shit. Best of luck to you in converting the world to fluoros. You're beating your ahead against the wall though. Although your such an ass you probably don't care.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
listen man i was giving you a good critique but i you wan to take it bad you can. those buds on the table are the unripe ones the ones on the plants well you should definatley wait to harvest, and if you read is said there was no density problem your buds look dense. and you info on IR needs some backing AS I TURN MY HPS ON 1 HOUR EARLIER THAN MY OTHER LIGHTS BECAUSE IT TELLS THE PLANT IT TIME TO WAKE UP AND GO TO SLEEP(hormones) IR DOES NOT MAKE YOUR BUD DENSE PROPER NUTES AND LIGHT INTENSITY DOES.(which can be acheived with t5)


also how many people do you know that only grow indica? most of the people i know are growing hybrids and high yeilders that can get up to 8 ft tall.


oh and the pic thing. isaid i wanted to see your bottom buds and the height measured with a yard stick; from media to light
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Take it how you want to but I was the FIRST one in this thread to say that you brought a logical and intelligent argument. I listened to you, asked questions, and even defended you. So you wana jump down my throat because you MISREAD my post. Pull it together buddy. Now I don't have any patience for you. I said "Look what you had to do to get the PLANT in that last picture" meaning you had to hang $950 worth of lights and bulbs vertically around 1-2 plants just to get some popcorn and buds that aren't that big. I produce buds twice that size under a 1000w light and my yield is 4 times that. So if you wanna hang $1000 around 1 plant to get some nice little nugs then go for it. Won't work for the majority of us and definitely not for anyone who grows commercially. Saying that I would know "if I had ever grown" was just a petty attempt by you to make a snide remark at me because YOU THOUGHT I was talking shit when in reality I wasn't. Fact of the matter is you lost all credibility in my book when you decided to become a dick. Your buds are small. If they were week 6 then they aren't getting much bigger. The buds in your harvest pics were small as well. I like fat, dense colas and so do the people that buy my shit. Best of luck to you in converting the world to fluoros. You're beating your ahead against the wall though. Although your such an ass you probably don't care.
I so love educating the ignorant.

I.wasnt talking shit either. You talked shit in almost every post. You were definitely talking shit in the last post. You hate and nay say in every post. That was a reply to 2 different posts. Just because I can makea statement that proves what you said is wrong does not all mean im talking shit. Maybe a little sarcasm. you have not defended me. You have jumped on people for defending me. .you kept sayimg you can only do this orbthat witb those lights.I have 24 3 footers under all that. The pics were 8 of them under the 8 bulb. I push them back as I move in the next batch.. When I was lemon skunk.. Pure sativa. I as pulling a qper per plant. But with the kushes and soma rock bud. I average 1.5 oz to 2 oz per plant..
Strain is the main factor in yield. Ive grown the sme strains under a 1k too and got the same yield. I DO PURE INDICAS. No hybrids no sativas.

By the way each of bubba kush buds weigh in around 4 g each.
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
IR does not play as big a role past the first hour or so since it is not a photosynthetically wave length mr know it all. the properterm for IR would be near IR which is the 600-700 range....
 

polyarcturus

Well-Known Member
I so love educating the ignorant.

I.wasnt talking shit either. You talked shit in almost every post. You were definitely talking shit in the last post. You hate and nay say in every post. That was a reply to 2 different posts. Just because I can makea statement that proves what you said is wrong does not all mean im talking shit. Maybe a little sarcasm. you have not defended me. You have jumped on people for defending me. .I have 24 3 footers under all that. The pics were 8 of them under the 8 bulb. I push them back as I move in the next batch.. When I was lemon skunk.. Pure sativa. I as pulling a qper per plant. But with the kushes and soma rock bud. I average 1.5 oz to 2 oz per plant..
Strain is the main factor in yield. Ive grown the sme strains under a 1k too and got the same yield. I DO PURE INDICAS. No hybrids no sativas.

By the way each of bubba kush buds weigh in around 4 g each.
your not educating me or would have went and bought some t5s already lol. but anyways man as my dad would say.." if you get your head out of your ass you might be able to see where your going"
 
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