what do i need to do for 4 1000 hps

B

Bubbleman

Active Member
Ok guys i been growing for years. I know alot about growing but nothing about electricty. What do i need to do to put 4 1000 watts hps in 1 room. I may go with 4 600 instead. They will be air cooled.
 
gohydro

gohydro

Well-Known Member
Bubbleman said:
Ok guys i been growing for years. I know alot about growing but nothing about electricty. What do i need to do to put 4 1000 watts hps in 1 room. I may go with 4 600 instead. They will be air cooled.
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You should have (3) 20amp circuits but can probably get by with 2 if you plug nothing else in to those circuits. This is fairly easy to figure out. Amps multiplied by volts gives you watts so...... 4000watts divided by 115 volts = 34.8 amps. You should not put more than 80% load on a breaker. Assuming you have a 20 amp breaker, the maximum you should put on it is 16amps. Using (2) 20amp circuits you'll can see that you'll be putting a little more than 17amps/circuit. You're definitely covered if you go with 600's but the 1000 will work.

Remember...the breaker protects the wire connected to it, not the device. 20amp circuits require 12 g wire. Do NOT use 14gauge...it is meant for a 15a breaker.
 
panhead

panhead

Well-Known Member
gohydro said:
You should have (3) 20amp circuits but can probably get by with 2 if you plug nothing else in to those circuits. This is fairly easy to figure out. Amps multiplied by volts gives you watts so...... 4000watts divided by 115 volts = 34.8 amps. You should not put more than 80% load on a breaker. Assuming you have a 20 amp breaker, the maximum you should put on it is 16amps. Using (2) 20amp circuits you'll can see that you'll be putting a little more than 17amps/circuit. You're definitely covered if you go with 600's but the 1000 will work.

Remember...the breaker protects the wire connected to it, not the device. 20amp circuits require 12 g wire. Do NOT use 14gauge...it is meant for a 15a breaker.
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Your figures are correct but your assuming 100% effeincy of the device being ran,if the ballasts are running at 80% effiency then the figures change,correct.

Ive never been able to push more than one 1,000 watt HID light off a single 15 amp line.
 
B

Bubbleman

Active Member
gohydro said:
You should have (3) 20amp circuits but can probably get by with 2 if you plug nothing else in to those circuits. This is fairly easy to figure out. Amps multiplied by volts gives you watts so...... 4000watts divided by 115 volts = 34.8 amps. You should not put more than 80% load on a breaker. Assuming you have a 20 amp breaker, the maximum you should put on it is 16amps. Using (2) 20amp circuits you'll can see that you'll be putting a little more than 17amps/circuit. You're definitely covered if you go with 600's but the 1000 will work.

Remember...the breaker protects the wire connected to it, not the device. 20amp circuits require 12 g wire. Do NOT use 14gauge...it is meant for a 15a breaker.
Click to expand...
can i run an industrial extension cord from another room with a 3 way on the end.It just sounds easier that way. YOu saying if i run nothing else i can get 2 1000 in 1 room. If i run the cord from another room which is on another breaker I can get the two 1000 watt hps up with no rewiring or electrical work.
 
W

WhatDoYouWantFromLife

Well-Known Member
Both my lights 1000 watt MH and 1000 watt HPS run at 9.5 amps@120v each. No way I can run both on a 20 amp breaker. I have a kill-a-watt monitor & detector and have seen it spike to 13 amps. If you use 600 watt lights you can run 2 per 20 amp line otherwise only 1 1000 watt per line and still be able to run your fans,ect. but keep a count as you shouldn't use more than 16 amps per line or you will run the risk of popping the breakers(when your not there for hours and spoil things). I'm not trying to argue with the anyone or say they're wrong just trying to keep you SAFE. Good Luck.
 
panhead

panhead

Well-Known Member
Bubbleman said:
can i run an industrial extension cord from another room with a 3 way on the end.It just sounds easier that way. YOu saying if i run nothing else i can get 2 1000 in 1 room. If i run the cord from another room which is on another breaker I can get the two 1000 watt hps up with no rewiring or electrical work.
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Yes you can do that but be sure to buy a very heave gauge ext cord & tie it off where it plugs in.

Another room is not the main issue,you need to get power from a whole nother circuit,just running to another room will not assure this,most older homes run more than one room on the same curcuit.

Just plug some lamps into the outlets you intend to use then go start flipping your breakers on & off to see if the intended outlets are on the same curcuit,if they are just keep trying other outlets till you find one not on the same line.
 
B

Bubbleman

Active Member
Thanks for the good info guys. i think im going to go with 4 600's. 2 in the room and then a HD cord from another circuit with 2 more. Probably better any way can put closer to plants and i already have 2 ballast. Ill buy a bunch of cfl to make up for lost luemens.
 
Azgrow

Azgrow

Well-Known Member
i recomend not fucking with the wiring of anything...i have seen countless people burn an start fires trying to diy some shit...hire an electricin to come check everything out...dont wanna come home to a bunch of smoking ruins...peace az
edit...why dont you look into flip flop relay's...
 
smi32th

smi32th

Active Member
4 x 1000W is what i would consider to be pretty risky with the electric bill spike. an extra 4 kW per hour is a shittt load. 4 x 600w is much safer imo
 
atavistic

atavistic

Well-Known Member
You talking over $100 bump/month on electrical bill, at the 600 X 4 level. And that's still a fair amount of heat in the room.

Light mover may help maximize the situation.

Budget some electricity for fans, etc. If you're going commercial, need to spend some money to have commercial type wiring, air movers, etc.
 
B

Bubbleman

Active Member
not really worried about electric bill. Similar house have 5 + family members with bills in the 300+ month range. i will be by myself in the house. Also I will not be doing any laundry at this location. So i believe I can easily stay under the red flag electricity mark. As far as strains are concerned i have a bunch picked out. Can I get some feed back on these selections. Also if any1 has any recommendations with 8 week flowering times and good yields please contribute them.


Barney's Farm-
Blue cheese feminised - Blue Cheese feminised

Could not decide between dj shorts tru blu and cheese. What a great compromise. I know a couple banks have it any recomendations on which 1 is the best.

Th seeds
DA PURPS-
Da purps

I know it has 8- 10 week flowers time this ones for me. Do u think bc bud depots da purps would be better.How does this compare to the purple urkel and grape krush?

Th SEEDS
MKULTRA-
MK Ultra OG Kush x G13

Kush g13 a must have.

Green house feminised
Lemon Skunk
GHF Lemon skunk

Good price to add another strain sounds good any feedback?

Green house feminised
Trainwreck
- OUT OF STOCK - GHF Trainwreck

Good price to add another strain sounds good any feedback?

Feminised Cheese--

offered by big budha, barney's, and green house.
Any1 have any input on which seed bank to go with for this one? All similar priced. I think big budha was the first to get it.

Any input on these stains will be greatly appreciated plus any other recommendations on great strains with 8 week flower time.
 
VictorVIcious

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
I'm gonna stick my two cents in here anyway. Extension cords and duffers are a pain in the ass in a grow operation. If you need to have 4 hid lights in your operation, then you need to have the minimum power required for all of the things you will eventually need. Instead of thinking of how little you can get away with, decide how much you should have. And then get it to the room from your mains panel. This is done all the time for spa's etc. They have a satillite breaker box because of the water risk from extension cords. For any type of hydro op you are going to be running pumps, air stones and fans for each table, its not a lot, it all adds up. Done correctly you can make a 'Grow Operation Electrical Control Panel' that you could move and take with you that would be safe. What you do, in effect is create one extension cord that powers everything in your Grow Operation, and then install switches (Breakers) that control the seperate items. Unless the entire home is underpowered, it will not affect any of your existing circuits. VV
 
cmak40

cmak40

Well-Known Member
VictorVIcious said:
I'm gonna stick my two cents in here anyway. Extension cords and duffers are a pain in the ass in a grow operation. If you need to have 4 hid lights in your operation, then you need to have the minimum power required for all of the things you will eventually need. Instead of thinking of how little you can get away with, decide how much you should have. And then get it to the room from your mains panel. This is done all the time for spa's etc. They have a satillite breaker box because of the water risk from extension cords. For any type of hydro op you are going to be running pumps, air stones and fans for each table, its not a lot, it all adds up. Done correctly you can make a 'Grow Operation Electrical Control Panel' that you could move and take with you that would be safe. What you do, in effect is create one extension cord that powers everything in your Grow Operation, and then install switches (Breakers) that control the seperate items. Unless the entire home is underpowered, it will not affect any of your existing circuits. VV
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so you run a big ass cord 12/3 or somethin from the main panel? where in the panel does it come off? not a single breaker right?

to a separate small breaker box with the necesarry breakers for the op in it? to a couple outlets from each breaker?

dont mean to sound simple but sometimes thats the best way to break
something down i guess
 
VictorVIcious

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
cmak40 said:
so you run a big ass cord 12/3 or somethin from the main panel? where in the panel does it come off? not a single breaker right?

No 12/3 will not do it. It will depend on how many amps you want to put in there. THe cord size for an electric range as an example wouild give you 50 amps of available service, 220 volts. I used 3-3-5 with grounding wire to run a 100amp Panel which you can buy with some of the breaker switches included for about $80.00

to a separate small breaker box with the necesarry breakers for the op in it? to a couple outlets from each breaker?

dont mean to sound simple but sometimes thats the best way to break
something down i guess
Click to expand...
I did mine backwards, the idea is the same. I had 60amp service to my meter so my whole house was underpowered. I checked, it was about $100.00 more to have 200 amp service run that for 100 amp service. I ran the 200 amp panel in my workshop and ran from there to the house panel with the right size wire for 100amp power. In the new box its a double throw 100 amp breaker, inside it goes to the service bars for 2-110 powerlegs the return and the grounding wire. An electrical panel is just a big switch. Go turn off the main switch all of the light etc. will go off. As long as you don't have the power on it can't hurt you. ALWAYS REMEMBER TO TURN IT OFF AT THE MAIN PANEL FIRST. Then do what you need to. All of the big box stores sell them and have instruction on what and how to install them. And they can be 'surface mounted' like on a 3/4" piece of plywood screwed to the wall. Code in your area may require a solid pipe (Grey Pvc ) from the floor to the bottom of the panel. A seperate grounding wire is not necessary, I installed one anyway, you can ground it to your water pipes as long as they are not plastic like mine. lol 12/3 wire run from the panel to points were you want to install plugs for light, could even be on the 3/4" ply wood you screwed to the wall Like the Panel Al B Fuct has posted. Here is a shot of my control panel. Its a 40 space 200amp service panel. The top right hand switch powers my house, remember it only had 60 amp service to start with, and the 40 amp is for the central air, I just took out the old wire and installed it to the switch in this panel. Now my house circuits stay on, and I have enough power to run the kiln I have in my work shop, if you get my drift. I have four Switches and four circuits down the length of each side of the work shop. with at least four duplex recetacles for each circuit. I want to try and make sure that plugging a new air pump isn't going to turn off my lights. And I figure anyone that wants to buy a house with a heated workshop would probably want to use some power equipment. There is enough room left in the panel for about 20 more circuits. Normal Breakers can be purchased for $3-$4, I just buy the 10 pack. Prices for wire have dropped recently, I bought the 250' roll of 12 wire, and 100' of 14 wire which is fine with 15 amp breakers for normal lighting etc.
You can staple wire to the wall and run it were you need to, it would be like hanging a picture, same hole to patch if you remove it.
A source for a smaller controlling box would be an rv cord and control, they have some that are not that expensive. And the hardest it can get is abcd. ANd color coded. All of the black wires go to the gold screws, for 110 circuits all of the white wires go to the silver screws (unless you are using the black as a return to a switch), and all of the grounding wires go to the green screws. When you have d, it will be red and another power wire, it goes to the other power leg of the double throw switch you need to supply 220volt power. I hope this helps, it is important to be safe, and in the long run it will sve you money, using wire big enough to carry the load easily means less resistants, saves electricity, check it out. VV:confused:
 
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