No prob thank mike for discovering them! i had them spraying side by side with tefens and they definitely perform better my .02
if you have the tefens then youll need those fittings, but yea all JG fittings swivel on the pipe.
True HP Aero For 2011
- Thread starter Trichy Bastard
- Start date
Mike Young
Well-Known Member
Petflora uses these from reptile basics. http://www.reptilebasics.com/misting-head-assemblies/
They aim & swivel, but I think those are tefen nozzles if I'm not mistaken. Yeah, it seems nozzle placement can be a bit of a bitch. I'm experiencing some issues with my placement as well. I placed a temporary plate in my chamber just below the roots, to hopefully coax the mist into rising up & getting to my netpot. If this doesn't work, I'm probably onto making my system a hybrid, with maybe a soaker hose that drops down through the netcup to keep things wet internally. I may even let it drop down into the chamber as I feel when a large root mass forms, the interior may suffer from not getting adequet mist. Who knows. It's all an experiment for me at this point.
They aim & swivel, but I think those are tefen nozzles if I'm not mistaken. Yeah, it seems nozzle placement can be a bit of a bitch. I'm experiencing some issues with my placement as well. I placed a temporary plate in my chamber just below the roots, to hopefully coax the mist into rising up & getting to my netpot. If this doesn't work, I'm probably onto making my system a hybrid, with maybe a soaker hose that drops down through the netcup to keep things wet internally. I may even let it drop down into the chamber as I feel when a large root mass forms, the interior may suffer from not getting adequet mist. Who knows. It's all an experiment for me at this point.
konagirl420
Well-Known Member
Hey tb!!!!!
konagirl420
Well-Known Member
Hey Tb!!!!!
those are bad ass if your using tefens! and a great price to!! with that lawn leaf bag howmany gallons is that? if i were you id prob put a mister on a 90 and point it straight at the net cup till you see roots or move your nozzles closer? i have mine about 2 inches away from my net cups on either side. and theyre working nice.
seriously wherd the dude go!?
Mike Young
Well-Known Member
My bags are 40 gal capacity, believe it or not. My problem is that the lid is 2" thick. The net cup barely comes through the bottom. I flanged around it the best I could, and around the nozzles, but it made little diff. I got one nozzle pointing in, but not enough. I ordered 100' of tubing yesterday, cause I'm sadly using every inch, and its not enough to make any mods. Soon.
Yeah, wtf happened indeed? We're down an amigo, and that shit makes me nervous.
Yeah, wtf happened indeed? We're down an amigo, and that shit makes me nervous.
IK seriously!!
Now my boss is gonna see me getting lunch.Mountain High7
Active Member
[/QOUTE] if your running D2W Id run the solenoid as close as possible to each site, and reduce the amount of line you have to run. in my veg tent im recirculating the nutrients back to reservoir so Im not concerned about back siphon. the tefens that originally came with my set up were the tefens .08 not sure if they have check valves? but the digs perform better so ill save them for back up. and run the solenoids close to each site when flowering. or install JG check valves?...[/QUOTE]
Dh- I would like to use a solenoid valve before every nozzle but I have 2 chambers with 16 nozzles in each chamber. That's just too much money for all those valves so Id like to go with check valved nozzles.
What pressure are you running? I read those .08 gph DIGs have a recommended operating pressure of 30 psi. Will they be fine operating at 100 psi?
The chlorine in bleach will naturally dissipate out of your nutrient solution. Even if your recycling your nutes, it will still dissipate out of the solution rather quickly 24-48 hrs, hence the need to keep adding more daily.
Dh- I would like to use a solenoid valve before every nozzle but I have 2 chambers with 16 nozzles in each chamber. That's just too much money for all those valves so Id like to go with check valved nozzles.
What pressure are you running? I read those .08 gph DIGs have a recommended operating pressure of 30 psi. Will they be fine operating at 100 psi?
The chlorine in bleach will naturally dissipate out of your nutrient solution. Even if your recycling your nutes, it will still dissipate out of the solution rather quickly 24-48 hrs, hence the need to keep adding more daily.
Dh- I would like to use a solenoid valve before every nozzle but I have 2 chambers with 16 nozzles in each chamber. That's just too much money for all those valves so Id like to go with check valved nozzles.
What pressure are you running? I read those .08 gph DIGs have a recommended operating pressure of 30 psi. Will they be fine operating at 100 psi?
The chlorine in bleach will naturally dissipate out of your nutrient solution. Even if your recycling your nutes, it will still dissipate out of the solution rather quickly 24-48 hrs, hence the need to keep adding more daily.[/QUOTE]
ok that makes sense to buy the one with check valves. the tefens def run nice but the maintenance and performance of the digs is why i went with them. mike says hes running them at 100 psi and hadnt had any problem, and in his video i liked how they performed and the maintenance was simple. so i decided to order some. im waiting for my 1/4'' pressure gauge to get here should be here today. my setup is just like petflora where i have the pump plugged into the DRT-1 timer and firing 4 secon 3:30 off W/D cycle. so the pump is running at max psi i think, and havnt had any nozzles blow off. knock on wood!
Dh- I would like to use a solenoid valve before every nozzle but I have 2 chambers with 16 nozzles in each chamber. That's just too much money for all those valves so Id like to go with check valved nozzles.
What pressure are you running? I read those .08 gph DIGs have a recommended operating pressure of 30 psi. Will they be fine operating at 100 psi?
The chlorine in bleach will naturally dissipate out of your nutrient solution. Even if your recycling your nutes, it will still dissipate out of the solution rather quickly 24-48 hrs, hence the need to keep adding more daily.[/QUOTE]
ok that makes sense to buy the one with check valves. the tefens def run nice but the maintenance and performance of the digs is why i went with them. mike says hes running them at 100 psi and hadnt had any problem, and in his video i liked how they performed and the maintenance was simple. so i decided to order some. im waiting for my 1/4'' pressure gauge to get here should be here today. my setup is just like petflora where i have the pump plugged into the DRT-1 timer and firing 4 secon 3:30 off W/D cycle. so the pump is running at max psi i think, and havnt had any nozzles blow off. knock on wood!
Mike Young
Well-Known Member
The dig nozzles are max rated for 80 psi. I am confident they will continue to hold up at higher pressures. I gotta think that the people at dig aren't aware their nozzles are being used in this type of application, and assume people wouldn't be running a ton of pressure to mist their flowers.
Mike Young
Well-Known Member
I'm fairly confident that I am aware of every way to make mist... Starting with the best. 1. Air assisted. 2. High pressure pump/accumulator/solenoid. 3. Centrifugal atomization via spinning disk. Have I left anything out?
rhino1170
Active Member
I'm sorry. I just see allot of talk about putting this stuff together and not about how it works.
Making mist is easy.. making a system that is cost effective and user friendly seems to be the problem.
I'm sure you have plenty of knowledge.
Wanted to talk about something you haven't seen.
Making mist is easy.. making a system that is cost effective and user friendly seems to be the problem.
I'm sure you have plenty of knowledge.
Wanted to talk about something you haven't seen.
aerojunkie
Well-Known Member
Mike,
Everything you need to fix your lid problem is at your local Home Depot. Get yourself a piece of FRP and a thinner piece of polystyrene foam 3/4-1". If you have a local foam shop you can actually get a more dense piece, 2 or 3 lb. You can also get the yellow polyurethane sheet as it is thin but very dense. Either way, cut the FRP to size and glue it to the top of your foam with 3M 78 Polystyrene foam adhesive, or you can use expanding polyurethane insulating foam in a can (great stuff). Just be sure to put some gym plates on top of the FRP if you use expanding foam. You'll be amazed how rigid it is especially when your span only looks to be about 24-30" wide. I would also recommend a vapor barrier on the bottom of the foam. You can use plastic visqueen for this, its cheap.
aerojunkie
Well-Known Member
Im always looking to better my system. Don't just dangle the bait, tell us what ya got?