LED GLH Spectra 180 x 4 - 720 watt LED SCROG

hippy132

Well-Known Member
Ok, checked the 180's they are putting out 140 watts and the 290 is putting out 230 watts., sounding like all not working, and still not seen or heard from anyone that has success with the GLH lites we have (180 v1 or 2 and my 290 ). I will stutter through the next grow and see what I can do.
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
Ok, checked the 180's they are putting out 140 watts and the 290 is putting out 230 watts., sounding like all not working, and still not seen or heard from anyone that has success with the GLH lites we have (180 v1 or 2 and my 290 ). I will stutter through the next grow and see what I can do.
Sounds like they've been modified to me... Do work, hope they work out for you.
 

hippy132

Well-Known Member
modified yes, but sold as 180 watt and 290 watt. Thankfully I didn't pay top dollar for the 290 and wish I could say the same for the 180's ,but still not the way to do business. But since it seems that most of the LED 's are not what they seem I shouldn’t be surprised. Hopefully I will be ok, although already seeing some bleaching but assuming it is nute need not lite issue ( OMG, its starting again...). Will see in day or two, i will be watering with cal/mag and FF stuff at 6.5 ph
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
Raise the roof! Mike told me today he's renaming the next gens based on their LED number. No more wattage comparisons. If you have problems, call him.
 

hippy132

Well-Known Member
I am no expert that is for sure and will try it one more time, Today I added the 290/230 to the tent and will let it acclimate for 8 hours, turn the 290 off and let it veg with the single 180/140 until 8 am and turn the 290 on again for 12 hours again for couple days before I start flowering
 

stoneyluv

Well-Known Member
wow!!! this thread blew up today!!!!hahaha

Got your PM dude... gonna answer that later... all good stuff!!!!!

man... so many great questions, tons and tons of speculation and all kinds of great info here in the last day or so!!!!!! I'm glad you reached Mike, he is the hardest guy to reach, but once ya do he always seems to give ya his full undivided attention. every time I've talked to him has been 1/2 hours and most of the time over an hour!!! I imagine if the guy answers his phone three times a day and has lunch, half his day is already over and he has to run an entire business by himself!!!! hahahaaha it is very interesting that he offered to swap out your panels. that is what he did for me!!! I had two V1 180's and two V2 100's (UFO) he replaced mine with V3's.

If i can offer any help, this is what i know...

V1 - red/blue 90* lens. new spectrums from the proved 2010 models. made in 100,180,290,500 Watts
V2 - red/blue/white/orange 90* lens. added the white and orange, heavier on the orange side. almost an HPS look to the leaves... made in the same wattages as V1's
V3 - red/blue/orange 90* lens, white is 120* lens. this one heavier on the white side. lower wattages. the glass is removed from the case. there is a protective coating on the connections. CAREFUL... you can get shocked!!! i was told they were made 100,150,250,450 with the new power supplies.

I have used all three so far. currently i am using three V3 150's(130's maybe... but i think Mike changed them just after mine???) I'll put a meter on them and let you know(i don't remember if i did when i got them).

I am pleased with these so far but i am not 100% satisfied at the moment. you are correct, I want and should be getting bigger yields. they are getting better and better, but not what is expected according to mike himself even.

I am limping along by supplementing with the calmag and superthrive. plus lots of fresh castings!!! I say limp because i truly believe this is a band aid and not a solution. It's the solution part I am working on. I want to make these lights work plug and play!!!!!! not work and stress the shit out of my plants. and believe me, all these micros and macros are working the hell out of my plants!!! I'm even seeing three bladed leaves on one plant with a long history of zero problems!!! so yes, I'm limping at the moment. I am really excited about the shorter flowering times. in fact, i am able to lower the lights much closer to the plants without burning them. I am about 13-15" away now without any signs of burning. as far as the extra lighting, i really feel that is the answer, but i refuse to buy another light when i KNOW i can make these work with just a little more tweaking. cycling both the lights on and off all day long would make them work incredibly awesome to i bet, but who wants to cycle their lights on and off every hour!!!!!!

and as far as your "sickness" and Mike not hearing of it is just silly in my eyes.... why the hell did he replace all those PS's and upgrade panels if there wasn't a burning or sickness issue.....this issue is what is currently giving his lights a bad name!!! now his customer service has been nothing but spectacular in my opinion. he is the HARDEST person to reach and get to do stuff but when he does, wow , he hooks it up!!!!!

stay on him about those power supplies until you see a tracking number, I've been told the squeaky wheel gets the grease... i know that's BS but ya got to do it sometimes!!!!

I'll PM ya later on man... I got a chop down tonight!!! an AK47!!!!!!! all GLH grown and damn proud!!!!!! keep the faith brother!!!!!!!!! I see good things coming your way!!!!!
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
wow!!! this thread blew up today!!!!hahaha

Got your PM dude... gonna answer that later... all good stuff!!!!!

man... so many great questions, tons and tons of speculation and all kinds of great info here in the last day or so!!!!!! I'm glad you reached Mike, he is the hardest guy to reach, but once ya do he always seems to give ya his full undivided attention. every time I've talked to him has been 1/2 hours and most of the time over an hour!!! I imagine if the guy answers his phone three times a day and has lunch, half his day is already over and he has to run an entire business by himself!!!! hahahaaha it is very interesting that he offered to swap out your panels. that is what he did for me!!! I had two V1 180's and two V2 100's (UFO) he replaced mine with V3's.

If i can offer any help, this is what i know...

V1 - red/blue 90* lens. new spectrums from the proved 2010 models. made in 100,180,290,500 Watts
V2 - red/blue/white/orange 90* lens. added the white and orange, heavier on the orange side. almost an HPS look to the leaves... made in the same wattages as V1's
V3 - red/blue/orange 90* lens, white is 120* lens. this one heavier on the white side. lower wattages. the glass is removed from the case. there is a protective coating on the connections. CAREFUL... you can get shocked!!! i was told they were made 100,150,250,450 with the new power supplies.

I have used all three so far. currently i am using three V3 150's(130's maybe... but i think Mike changed them just after mine???) I'll put a meter on them and let you know(i don't remember if i did when i got them).

I am pleased with these so far but i am not 100% satisfied at the moment. you are correct, I want and should be getting bigger yields. they are getting better and better, but not what is expected according to mike himself even.

I am limping along by supplementing with the calmag and superthrive. plus lots of fresh castings!!! I say limp because i truly believe this is a band aid and not a solution. It's the solution part I am working on. I want to make these lights work plug and play!!!!!! not work and stress the shit out of my plants. and believe me, all these micros and macros are working the hell out of my plants!!! I'm even seeing three bladed leaves on one plant with a long history of zero problems!!! so yes, I'm limping at the moment. I am really excited about the shorter flowering times. in fact, i am able to lower the lights much closer to the plants without burning them. I am about 13-15" away now without any signs of burning. as far as the extra lighting, i really feel that is the answer, but i refuse to buy another light when i KNOW i can make these work with just a little more tweaking. cycling both the lights on and off all day long would make them work incredibly awesome to i bet, but who wants to cycle their lights on and off every hour!!!!!!

and as far as your "sickness" and Mike not hearing of it is just silly in my eyes.... why the hell did he replace all those PS's and upgrade panels if there wasn't a burning or sickness issue.....this issue is what is currently giving his lights a bad name!!! now his customer service has been nothing but spectacular in my opinion. he is the HARDEST person to reach and get to do stuff but when he does, wow , he hooks it up!!!!!

stay on him about those power supplies until you see a tracking number, I've been told the squeaky wheel gets the grease... i know that's BS but ya got to do it sometimes!!!!

I'll PM ya later on man... I got a chop down tonight!!! an AK47!!!!!!! all GLH grown and damn proud!!!!!! keep the faith brother!!!!!!!!! I see good things coming your way!!!!!
Killer Stoney, thanks for the info about the versions. Just to clarify, he didn't say he hadn't heard of it. He admittedly confirmed that there were "30 or 40" customers he sent power supplies to and said that none of them were experiencing any further issues. He stated that he had not personally had any issues while using any of the panels in his trials.

I will stay on him about the power supplies, I'm really thinking about switching these out with HPS until I can get these lights sorted out and perhaps adding them in later down the road.

Thanks for the contribution and thanks to everyone else interested in the lights an my grow.

Crank dank, smoke kief and kick ass.
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
I did a few things in the tent and have some plans for it. I have the screen hung with bungees so I added weight to drop it lower. I used some small bricks I had laying around, I've wanted the screen lower for quite awhile and just used my head finally lol. By dropping the screen I was able to expose more foliage and create more bud sites as well as create more distance between the lights and the canopy. The lights are 39" away now. I'm still running only 2 and they plants seem to be responding positively. I fed last night with 50/50 mix of 20/20/20 and 10/30/20 Jacks with 5 ml/ gal of cal mag, the solution was about 800ppm which is a little hotter than I should give them but I will pour just cal mag solution to them next time. I want to make sure they have what they need right now and see if I can't save this harvest.

I ordered an inexpensive 400w magnetic ballast, cool tube with reflector and bulb set, I plan to add that to the tent before I get my power supplies and see how the plants react to a metal halide with the LED's. I thought I would throw some blue light at it and see how it works? May try the HPS too at some point depending how they react. Eventually I will play with a CMH bulb which is why I bought 400 instead of 600 and magnetic opposed to digital. Man I just love to throw money at my hobbies lol. I'm hoping they will love it. Things are stable for now, the sickness has slowed significantly with just the 2 lights running and the added distance should help with that as well. Hoping the MH will help to bring the temps back up into the 80's too, the tent has dropped to 72 with the lights being higher and just running 2. I would like it back up to around 82-84 if I can get it there that would be sweet, I'm thinking it will work without ducting it :D
 

johnnymcpotts

Active Member
This sounds like a great trial. I am looking at using a HPS/LED combo once I'm ready to flower. Thinking about rotating the plants 2-3 days LED 1 day HPS to see how it works.

Thanks for keep us posted on everything - good luck!
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
Sounds like a solid plan man!
We'll see lol. Still giving these lights the benefit of the doubt.... I was one click away from a 1000 digital, then one click away from a 600 digital, finally settled on the 400. I could have gotten a 600 digital and just ran it wherever I wanted to but the CMH bulbs only come in 400w and only work on magnetic ballasts. I can always off it cheap to a friend who wants to set up something small if I don't need it. Then again..... what grow room can't find a use for a 400w MH, right?
 

ihatefoxnews

New Member
Hey didn't you listen to the guys in this thread man. You bleach and dried the cells of the plant and killed them

You went way to dry and way to hot. Plants perform photosynthesis just fine at cooler temps when they're alive. You simply caused these plants to perspire faster than they could suck up water. You have great light. Maybe could use 1 white light. I'd stick these lights 10" away; raise humidity to 55%, and bring temps to 79.
 

hippy132

Well-Known Member
seriously man, you put these lites that close and you will not have any coverage and will definitely burn them. I am starting to agree with the power or ? of these lites. I turned on my 290 with my 180 to start and get ready for flowering --- I am running 1 - 180 over three plants - 25 to 35 inches from tops --24 hours, will turn the switch next week. So, now seeing new growth very yellow and what looks like burning/ drying out from trying to use to much lite and not allowing the plants to perspire and gulp enough water, so again turned off the 290 until start flowering and can give plants time to recoup -- 12/ 12, which may be the issue.

However, since the lites also cause cal/mag and sulfer issues added cal mag and special douse of epson salts. And started slow nute regime , all this happening at same time, can I assume others same issues???
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
Hey didn't you listen to the guys in this thread man. You bleach and dried the cells of the plant and killed them

You went way to dry and way to hot. Plants perform photosynthesis just fine at cooler temps when they're alive. You simply caused these plants to perspire faster than they could suck up water. You have great light. Maybe could use 1 white light. I'd stick these lights 10" away; raise humidity to 55%, and bring temps to 79.
Thanks for offering your help, but its the lights bro. Thanks for the advice on how to kill my plant though lol.

I figure supplemental Co2 would offer very little at 55% humidity and temps under 80F. The higher temps and 45% humidity are to increase plant transpiration and nutrient uptake to take advantage of the added Co2 (I'm running at 1200-1500 ppm). Its the lights bro, have a read of the thread, thanks for stopping. The other 4 x 4 box in the room is using a 600 @ 82-84 degrees and 43-46% RH during lights on, just chopped a gorgeous Top 44 that will probably yield 4 zips of dense colaz, being only 1 of 5 plants in the box. Same environmental conditions, much different results. The temps are dropping in my 600 tent too, need to find a way to keep them up for the winter.

Maybe I should post a pic to cheer this place up LOL.
 

ihatefoxnews

New Member
well ok you got me there; i was basing that on whomever said their buddy kept that light 6-8 inches.
I know lower humidy = more transpiration; but in this case you dried the cells out and the only way to improve nute uptake from there would be to go hydro. The lights are fine! Leds produce a lot less heat than any other light, i heard some green/yellow light is helpful; sunlight is white; so having a white light may help certain things.

if the light really is too intense you could maybe throw in something to diffuse it.
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
well ok you got me there; i was basing that on whomever said their buddy kept that light 6-8 inches.
I know lower humidy = more transpiration; but in this case you dried the cells out and the only way to improve nute uptake from there would be to go hydro. The lights are fine! Leds produce a lot less heat than any other light, i heard some green/yellow light is helpful; sunlight is white; so having a white light may help certain things.

if the light really is too intense you could maybe throw in something to diffuse it.
The lights are not fine unfortunately, not at the moment anyways. Diffusion would probably work but if you read the last few pages of the thread you will understand what's happened recently.

Things are fine with just 2 lights jacked up as high as I can get them, still getting sick at a slower pace, but the footprint is not the same if I use them like this compared to 4 lights. Its not a heat issue, its a PAR issue as far as I understand. PAR is an acronym for photosynthetically active radiation. In theory the lights are too intense in the usable light spectrum (380-780 nanometers) which to me means they are TOO efficient, as a result highly intense in a specific range. Its recommended that the power supplies be switch to 130 watts from 180 watts to reduce the intensity while the footprint remains the same.

As I've learned more about wavelengths of radiation over the past few days Mikes explanation makes absolutely perfect sense. I wonder if Mike has PAR testing results for these lights. I'm going to call him on Monday and ask him if he has anything to share. I would like to see how much 100-400 nanometer wavelength UV they're putting out just because I'm curious. I kinda wanna know if its safe to be around these lights without eye or skin protection and if the glass lens offers adequate protection. I'm also wondering if the lights are producing too much UV which is damaging the plants? Sounds crazy but I'm curious.
 

ihatefoxnews

New Member
The lights are not fine unfortunately, not at the moment anyways. Diffusion would probably work but if you read the last few pages of the thread you will understand what's happened recently.

Things are fine with just 2 lights jacked up as high as I can get them, still getting sick at a slower pace, but the footprint is not the same if I use them like this compared to 4 lights. Its not a heat issue, its a PAR issue as far as I understand. PAR is an acronym for photosynthetically active radiation. In theory the lights are too intense in the usable light spectrum (380-780 nanometers) which to me means they are TOO efficient, as a result highly intense in a specific range. Its recommended that the power supplies be switch to 130 watts from 180 watts to reduce the intensity while the footprint remains the same.

As I've learned more about wavelengths of radiation over the past few days Mikes explanation makes absolutely perfect sense. I wonder if Mike has PAR testing results for these lights. I'm going to call him on Monday and ask him if he has anything to share. I would like to see how much 100-400 nanometer wavelength UV they're putting out just because I'm curious. I kinda wanna know if its safe to be around these lights without eye or skin protection and if the glass lens offers adequate protection. I'm also wondering if the lights are producing too much UV which is damaging the plants? Sounds crazy but I'm curious.
Nah you need glasses or turn off the bulbs with UV, 250nm is a germicidal which is UVB range; seconds of exposure can cause flash burn; longer and you can go blind.
But higher wavelengths UVA, are not as dangerous but could still bad for the eyes except for maybe reptile lights.

I still think you just need some white leds; just something to cover the full range; and perhaps 1-2 spectras.

Diffusion/side lighting... I dunno...but I get what you're saying; I just didn't think it was possible with so few lights; however since they peak so high at certain par nm freq. in radiation; I could see the plants getting sick or not behaving naturally.
 

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
Nah you need glasses or turn off the bulbs with UV, 250nm is a germicidal which is UVB range; seconds of exposure can cause flash burn; longer and you can go blind.
But higher wavelengths UVA, are not as dangerous but could still bad for the eyes except for maybe reptile lights.

I still think you just need some white leds; just something to cover the full range; and perhaps 1-2 spectras.

Diffusion/side lighting... I dunno...but I get what you're saying; I just didn't think it was possible with so few lights; however since they peak so high at certain par nm freq. in radiation; I could see the plants getting sick or not behaving naturally.
This is what I'm thinking yep, I going to try some added spectrum. I will run a 400w MH starting tomorrow or Weds with 2 x 180, whenever it arrives, then switch the PS's out if/when I get them. I'll probably drop the 400 low and tight like its supposed to be and let the LED's contribute from afar. I am hopeful it will help, then see if it repairs the overall health of the plant and helps to produce larger, denser fruits more rapidly. I'm fairly certain it can't hurt. Bud development is very slow and lacks density thus far with either 2 or 4 180's in the tent. The flower production thus far pretty much sucks, not going to lie or sugar coat it. Granted I'm having problems..... The bubblegum is at 30 days today and compares to the plants at about 20 days under my 600. The White Widow is at 17 days today and also compares to plants about 10 days behind it in HID. Maybe with the reduced wattages they can produce buds but not the larger more dense fruits I've grown accustomed to with HID, not as they are currently anyways.

Curious what you mean, "Didn't think it was possible with so few lights". Think what was possible?
 

ihatefoxnews

New Member
well It's hard to translate the power from 720 watts worth of leds to something like that of a HPS light. However I'd imagine it's like 1600-1800 watts. White light and the rest of the spectrum must play some kind of role in resin production and growth like UV for instance. So maybe you only need 1 spectra; some white 4500k lighting.

At least the rest of us can avoid problems like these; good luck to you in the future.
 
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