these look beauitful, proof it does infact work. will be interested in final weight and your opinion as to wether it did reduce yield, your opinion will count for so much more as you have had the balls to try it.
also im sorry to hear for your loss brother.
Lot's of things "work".
We discussed the lighting thingie on a solid botanical basis here.
http://riddlem3.com/index.php/topic,3291.msg68825.html#msg68825
Let's look carefully at the presentation based on a solid foundation of botany. A plant requires a certain amount of light to produce enough simple and complex carbos to carry it thru to senesce. If you want to extend that time period out with weird lighting regiments, fine.
http://www.theweedblog.com/how-to-use-the-121-lighting-method-for-efficient-marijuana-cultivation/
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By Dennis Ford
......In a standard lighting scheme, we have all come to believe in basically one or two camps. I wont get into whos behind the whole conspiracy of keeping 12/1 out of the masses, but if you want to hear some good shit please see John P. RN (you know who!) or Joseph Pietri on Facebook.
Ah oh, bad start. We have a conspiracy, so they say.
Ive found that for veg growth there are the two camps of 18/6 and 24/0 (18 hours of light
And then there's me that compromises both camps with a 20/4 during veg. And gawd does it "work" -
https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/9114-spin-out-chemical-root-pruning.html
The fact is that all plants need a darkness period to process the days energy into food and growth. Therefore your doing yourself absolutely no favors using a 24/0 for anything other than cloning.
Wait minute. A cutting is a plant part with a unit (leaves) that produce carbos. I thought you said night time processes "energy" into growth? A plant is a plant, cloning or otherwise.
18/6 works on the other hand, but the truth is your wasting light. Its time to wake up! Its time to trick nature again!
No you're not. You're extending the food making process. Again, it's an issue of "at what point do we have a light saturation point?" and how quickly do you want to finish a plant maintaining the highest degree of cultural potential.
Truth is you really only need to break up the photosynthesis dark period with an hour of light to maintain veg, and in doing so you give the little lady a massive darkness processing/growth period. 12/1 is simply 12 hours on, 5.5 hours off, 1 hour on, and 5.5 hours off. Then repeat through your entire veg period.
Truth is you're restriking the lamp (HID's) so often you're reducing its life expectancy. The said light schedule (i.e. 1 hour on 5.5 hours off) will not produce the maximum amount of carbos a plant is capable of, so, you just extended the time of vegetation compared to someone doing a "more normal" 20/4.
Again!
12 hours ON, 5.5 hours OFF, 1 hour ON, and 5.5 hours OFF for each 24 hour period.
This is only for VEGETATIVE PERIOD, we have another simple process to follow for flowering.
Got it.
One of the obvious first things youll see is a significant drop in your power bill. Who doesnt love that? But also your doing one other thing, breaking up the light period to prevent a multi-year footprint that LEO might find matches footprints they are looking for.
I guess if you're running a real large garden, it might be advantageous to extend the growing period.
FOR FLOWERING!
Flowering is simple as well, but its important during this delicate period in a plants life cycle to follow as closely what the evolution of the plant is looking for. Veg is different, the plant just wants to grow as big and lovely as it can. During flowering the plant is following a very specific genetic code for its conduct to continue the propagation of its species. This is why we adjust our lighting every 2 weeks.
That specific genetic code regarding a flowering response is controlled by the amount of phytochrome that is produced by the plant. With cannabis, a certain point is reached whereby the phytochrome is destroyed due to an internal flag dictated by a longer night. With the typical mutt, that could be 14/10 that triggers the flowering response, the standard photoperiod being 12/12. Any other period that provides for more than that is meaningless as far as phytochrome plant process controlling is concerned.
When we begin flowering, move everything to 11 hours on, and 13 hours off. You will keep this for 2 weeks, then drop the lighting period by 30 minutes, I.E. after two weeks you will switch to 10.5 hours on, and 13.5 hours off. Continue this 30 minute drop every 2 weeks until you reach 9 hours on/ 15 hours off. Finish your flowering at this lighting.
You haven't accomplished anything other than delaying harvest. This guy needs to learn something about botany and what makes a plant tick. This is about as lame as folks using bloom foods exclusively during the flowering response which induces leaf loss and then they wonder why they ended up with popcorn buds and lousy looking plants.
Trust me, have a look at some of the pics below. These plants were all grown, in the various stages you see here, using these methods.
Smoke n mirrors. Correct me if I'm wrong people but he cherry picked a garden of young plants and then posted the top of 4" cola without any source of where the photo came from.
The fact that he doesn't use closely placed reflecting panels around the garden speaks volumes too. There's a 30% light loss workin' fer ya regarding the photons the garden receives!
12/1 works people, save yourself some money, and maybe just save your ass!
Dennis Ford, Cannabis Dynamics
Big thank you to John P. RN and Joseph Pietri!
My ass is just fine. Maybe a little big at my age but rock hard with muscle gained from farming.
Uncle Ben