12-1 lighting schedule, has anyone actually tried this?
- Thread starter LILBSDAD
- Start date
a typo is a typo .. big deal .. the quote from reverof you quoted me didnt say 30 min a day either . but you seemed to think it did ... look you wont understand it until you do just a little reading .. i know it seems to be hard but im sure with a little perseverance you will be able to ... as for me im gonna check my lights , i might have to drop them 30 min
happy growin
happy growin
reverof
Active Member
12-1 light schedule is actually pretty well documented, go search google. Some very known names brought this out some time ago. It is said to not only lower your util bills but also up to 25% increase in yield. I just recently changed over but have a friend who has run it for over a year. A test was run with him & me, starting from seed, we did 2 tests, same strain same nutes, same lights, same feeding schedule. it took 4 weeks on 18/6 to achieve his size that he did in less than 3 weeks in 12-1, he went into bloom 1 week earlier than mine and yielded higher than mine, he ran the 11/13-9.5/14/5 through bloom and I ran 12/12.
azman
Active Member
where in the world gets 18 hours actual light, i mean sunblazing on the plant where the plant gets no shade,
it doesnt happen as the sun moves, i didnt edit my post to any time specifications i edited to include your dumb statement regarding 8 on 16 off.
you sir are a tit move along!
What kind of a quality is "size"?
Longer internodal length stemming from lack of light = more size at a cost. Less bud sites/ more wasted space. Indoor growers don't usually have space to waste.
"Starting from seed we did 2 tests" Okay, so I'll plant varying phenotype plants and notice they express different growth patterns and structure too. You need clones to run any good side-by-side test.
So basically, his were "Bigger" with excessively long night periods, starting with different plants. That's all of the evidence we have.
Okay, I get it now.
It's one of those pothead things.
azman
Active Member
stretch comes from light chasing, using this method i have noticed less stretch, internodal spacing.
btw i am also runnig clones as thats all i ever use. im using the same size pots, soil, even nutes i know what i average per light.
instead of this ridiculous argument read upon it at other places, try and grasp this can be done.
btw i am also runnig clones as thats all i ever use. im using the same size pots, soil, even nutes i know what i average per light.
instead of this ridiculous argument read upon it at other places, try and grasp this can be done.
I'm sure it "can be done", it's pretty damn challenging to kill a pot plant.
Why is it beneficial over a traditional, more natural light schedule? I've read about it "other places" and can't find any evidence other than pothead heresay.
When will you do your side-by-side with clones?
Why is it beneficial over a traditional, more natural light schedule? I've read about it "other places" and can't find any evidence other than pothead heresay.
When will you do your side-by-side with clones?
Phaeton
Active Member
I posted earlier also.
I use 12/1 for vegging because it syncronizes the chores, water, fans, vents, prune, movement, for the veg room and the bud room. Just easier to do all this together.
The leaf stem ratio is better, not major but better.
I upped the light intensity to make up for the shorter time, no electric saving.
Mature budding plants are documented to need less light energy, growth has slowed and the plant is just tuning its output, not using energy to grow plant matter. Less light is needed.
I still use 12/12 for budding because it is easier. The electricity costs are irrelevant to me.
The 12/1 system does work, but it is extra work to do, not worth it to me except the veg portion. That I like and am going on half a year of use now. Good results that pay for themselves.
The final test, paying its own way, many systems do not do this.
I use 12/1 for vegging because it syncronizes the chores, water, fans, vents, prune, movement, for the veg room and the bud room. Just easier to do all this together.
The leaf stem ratio is better, not major but better.
I upped the light intensity to make up for the shorter time, no electric saving.
Mature budding plants are documented to need less light energy, growth has slowed and the plant is just tuning its output, not using energy to grow plant matter. Less light is needed.
I still use 12/12 for budding because it is easier. The electricity costs are irrelevant to me.
The 12/1 system does work, but it is extra work to do, not worth it to me except the veg portion. That I like and am going on half a year of use now. Good results that pay for themselves.
The final test, paying its own way, many systems do not do this.
I grow using facts, I've gone to school in horticulture, work greenhouses in the winter/spring and farms in the summer, including my own half-acre production.
I don't do anything on half-assed advice, even from an agronomist. I go look up why, and potential other solutions. I think for myself, sorry you can't do that yet.
You keep up your crazy flowering light schedules, reducing light hours for no other reason than "it feels right".
I never said 12-5-1-5 is bad, or would not work. I'm saying the crazy flowering schedules are bad, and while they work, they probably are less effective than regular methods.
azman
Active Member
for me a side by side will not be necessary as i dont have the time to run 2 set up's
if i yield less than 1lb per plant i will abandon this technique.
when you see the sun out doenst mean your plant is getting 100% of that sun.
if you give your lights 18/24 hours of light then flip you get the light chase you are speaking of "stretch"
as mine are getting less light they stretched less.
maybe they can only store so many hours/amount of energy in the plant before the plant is full?
if i yield less than 1lb per plant i will abandon this technique.
when you see the sun out doenst mean your plant is getting 100% of that sun.
if you give your lights 18/24 hours of light then flip you get the light chase you are speaking of "stretch"
as mine are getting less light they stretched less.
maybe they can only store so many hours/amount of energy in the plant before the plant is full?
azman
Active Member
clearly a blatant lie here as he couldnt even bother to read the article or thread before chiming in.
If you look back, you'll see I replied on page 3 or 4 when the thread was first posted.
edit: And you're right, going straight from a 16 or 18 hours photoperiod to 12 is stressing factor and the plants grow looking for the light. I gradually reduce photoperiod when heading towards 12/12 allowing the plant to accumulate more and more flowering hormones.
I just can't see why you'd keep lowering the photoperiod once the flowering response is well on and triggered. I'd rather have my plants producing more sugars, and I can't say this with absolutely certainty, as cannabis can fit in both C3 and C4 pathways depending on it's climatic conditions, but cannabis C3 grown in abundance (water/nutrients/CO2) can continue photosynthesis indefinitely compared to it's cousins who can gladly grow in desertic conditions. This can only be achieved by closing stomata during the hottest parts of the day and storing CO2 at night, because CO2 retention becomes the limiting factor to photosynthesis, not sunlight.
edit: And you're right, going straight from a 16 or 18 hours photoperiod to 12 is stressing factor and the plants grow looking for the light. I gradually reduce photoperiod when heading towards 12/12 allowing the plant to accumulate more and more flowering hormones.
I just can't see why you'd keep lowering the photoperiod once the flowering response is well on and triggered. I'd rather have my plants producing more sugars, and I can't say this with absolutely certainty, as cannabis can fit in both C3 and C4 pathways depending on it's climatic conditions, but cannabis C3 grown in abundance (water/nutrients/CO2) can continue photosynthesis indefinitely compared to it's cousins who can gladly grow in desertic conditions. This can only be achieved by closing stomata during the hottest parts of the day and storing CO2 at night, because CO2 retention becomes the limiting factor to photosynthesis, not sunlight.
azman
Active Member
if this is the case you may have forgotten the rest of the thread or article as the questions you are asking have mostly been answered .
this is your first post ... notice where is says i read till page 5 ... you didnt post till page 26 and yet you still ragged it was wrong and you still havent read about it .. as azman said sir you are a tit