True HP Aero For 2011

dickkhead

Active Member
Nice r0m! So what's the deal, you have to fax in your order now?... Dickkhead- You'll probably want to get the "0.16 orifice (ultra low flow)" and with NPT fittings as opposed to barbed.

Hey r0m- in regards to the presure regulator, mine worked fine, until I disconnected my lines and re-plumbed the filter canister (which seems to be taking the overpressure fine). After I repressurized I could not get the regulator to stay at a set level, so I disassembled it (front and back) and took out the diaphram and needle valve plunger and checked for debris which I never found. I also slightly stretched the smaller compression spring from the backside to give it more tension. When I put it back together and pressurized- it is working perfectly with zero drift. You may want to try this. I also noticed the threads are shallow enough in the side ports where the JG NPT adaptors screw in that you don't want to tighten them all the way, otherwise thier openings will be pressed up against the middle core of the pressure regulator's insides and possibly obstruct the flow. Just use some teflon tape and don't crank all the way down- perhaps install them while the front cover is off so you can see how far in they are going.
0.16 for the 20 gallon trash can and 5 gallon buckets? thanks TB
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
thanks rom
Yeah, I just tried calling the phone number though, and got the same "mailbox full message". So I suppose you can still fax in your order- but who knows if it'll get filled? Let me know how it goes...


EDIT:
They just responded from an email to [email protected] you can try to contact them there. I told them some of my nozzles were unacceptable, and they said to ship back for exchange :)
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
0.16 for the 20 gallon trash can and 5 gallon buckets? thanks TB
Yes, I think anyone would want the lowest flow, you can get the coverage you need with more nozzles, but less saturation, overmisting will be your main concern once you have coverage proper.
 

dickkhead

Active Member
Yes, I think anyone would want the lowest flow, you can get the coverage you need with more nozzles, but less saturation, overmisting will be your main concern once you have coverage proper.
ok i will try to send them an email! i have 1 seedling in their now with the pump running 24/7 thats what he reccomends when their seedlings?... he has .08 tefen nozzles in their now. i ordered some of the 120` ones last night. but i want to try the biocontrols cause it says they wont clog. thats one of my biggest concerns!
 

r0m30

Active Member
:wall::wall:i went on the site and theres noway to order galamnitt
Yep, there site sux .....

i want to try the biocontrols cause it says they wont clog. thats one of my biggest concerns!
If you're using nutes that are soluable you shoudn't have cloging issues with the tefen either, at least if the roots don't attack them.

Hey TB what pressure regulator are you using, can you post a link?
He's using the 4 port watts p60, I'm using the 2 port one. http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=769
 

r0m30

Active Member
Hey r0m- in regards to the presure regulator, mine worked fine, until I disconnected my lines and re-plumbed the filter canister (which seems to be taking the overpressure fine). After I repressurized I could not get the regulator to stay at a set level, so I disassembled it (front and back) and took out the diaphram and needle valve plunger and checked for debris which I never found. I also slightly stretched the smaller compression spring from the backside to give it more tension. When I put it back together and pressurized- it is working perfectly with zero drift. You may want to try this. I also noticed the threads are shallow enough in the side ports where the JG NPT adaptors screw in that you don't want to tighten them all the way, otherwise thier openings will be pressed up against the middle core of the pressure regulator's insides and possibly obstruct the flow. Just use some teflon tape and don't crank all the way down- perhaps install them while the front cover is off so you can see how far in they are going.
I've had mine apart several times with no luck, I didn't check the clearance of the JG adapters on the inside, I'll have a look at that. Thanks.
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
ok i will try to send them an email! i have 1 seedling in their now with the pump running 24/7 thats what he reccomends when their seedlings?... he has .08 tefen nozzles in their now. i ordered some of the 120` ones last night. but i want to try the biocontrols cause it says they wont clog. thats one of my biggest concerns!
From what Atomizer recently said, the sooner you can dial back the mist (without hurting the plants which we'll probably understand what that is through experience), the sooner they will begin to show hp rootstructure. Although I just remembered your system will be a bit different, but never hurts to try to get as close as you can- perhaps you'll surprise us! Either way, as said before, you can likely get good results with that setup even if you can't achieve hp rootstructure. Heck, the potted clone I just put in my chamber actually had some fuzzies on it at the roots on the outside of the soil cluster. Anyway, if it doesn't die immediately, I'll do some updates with my first hp test plant. :) One good thing I have for faith on for my high temps, is Irishboy- who grows nice plants in constant 100-105 degree hydro conditions. I believe silica can be of benefit in high temps especially, so I will incorporate it into Atomizer's Canna regimen. If you have a good filter inline or pour your nutes through a 1 micron filter bag such as Atomizer does, and use a good NON-organic nute with low salts such as Canna, Dynagro, General Hydroponics or Dutchmaster and a few others, clogs shouldn't be too much an issue.

As a test (which I honestly expect to fail due to the circumstances) I have transferred to my chamber a clone that was recently rooted in a soil pot. My pod temps are reaching near 100 degrees however, and as gentle as I was at washing off the dirt- it's always hard on the plants. My timing is .5 seconds every three minutes and the brown dangly roots look fairly dry, but not too much, there is usually a single drop on the very bottom of the stringy root cluster, so it's my first experiment. So far the plant has not experienced and shock in 24 hours, and I have yet to add nutes to the r/o water- but they id just arrive today ! YAY...

One good thing I noticed, is that with a flashlight, I can see miniscule droplets flying around all the way up to the next mist cycle 3 minutes later!
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Well, since the rooted clone is looking decent, without even a hint of stress after 36 hours- I decided to risk wasting a little nutes on it. I added silica, and Canna vega A/B to reach an ec of .2 (140ppm on the .07 scale, or 100ppm on the .5 scale)- Per Atomizer's starting recommendations. Also added a splash of 35% h2o2 for good measure. Will likely use chlorine in the future, but I liked Atomizer's idea of using a chlorine based product designed to disinfect baby bottles- it sounds more likely to be safe for use in cunsumables, rather than laundry bleach, but I really don't know if that's the actual logic behind his choice. Here's a picture of the existing roots as they stand now:
IMG_0751.jpg

Also, I have another identical sized clone from the same batch that I left in it's pot with soil to use as a benchmark. Will keep you guys updated.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
TB: I took these for you. The long root was from when I had the timer issues ~ 10 days ago. The plant is doing OK, but the roots have yet to restart new shoots. In addition to timed feedings, I hold it inside the rez where it gets bathed in bubbles for a few minutes.

This clone was started in my DIY bubbler.; just moved it to HPA today. If you look close you might see root hairs. One clone (not pictured) that I put directly into the HPA barely has any root tips popping out, so I moved it to the bubbler today to make room for this one.

IMG_0846.jpg

New root tips are hard to see, but are white where the old roots are brownish from drying out, and almost dying.


IMG_0847.jpg


 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
TB: I took these for you. The long root was from when I had the timer issues ~ 10 days ago. The plant is doing OK, but the roots have yet to restart new shoots. In addition to timed feedings, I hold it inside the rez where it gets bathed in bubbles for a few minutes.

This clone was started in my DIY bubbler.; just moved it to HPA today. If you look close you might see root hairs. One clone (not pictured) that I put directly into the HPA barely has any root tips popping out, so I moved it to the bubbler today to make room for this one.

View attachment 1855959

New root tips are hard to see, but are white where the old roots are brownish from drying out, and almost dying.


View attachment 1855960


Cool PF, your roots look something like mine, so cheers to us both getting some nice white and possibly even fuzzy new offshoots! My pod temps nearing 100 degrees could put a serious damper on things, but I think your familiar with Irishboy and his led's, and did you know he grows all that in over 100 degree heat as I mentioned earlier?
 

dickkhead

Active Member
Thanks rom and TB. The nutrients he sent me are techna flora (recipe for success) is written on the box these should do write? Do u guys do maintenance on your nozzles? He wants me to clean with alcohol once a month. And change the reservoir water once a month. He says sense there's only 6 plants running on 1 reservoir there's no need to have DTW. Either way u guys think I'll be able to pull a pound off each bucket if I have 2 900w leds thinking of adding a 3rd as well?
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
In non aero hydro, typically the roots are hanging in a couple gallons of nutes, with a bubbler. This is cooling and the roots stay moist, whereas atomized mist + heat += drying = dead roots. At one point I installed a small bubbler inside my pod.
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
A question about Silica: In what form do you buy it? Where is a good place to buy?
Another Question: How much chlorine do I need to add?

I see where you guys are using this stuff.

Edit: I seen this on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOTANICARE-SILICA-BLAST-1-GAL-NUTRIENT-SUPPLEMENT-/200572859808?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb312f5a0
That'd work KM, I have the same I will finish off, but going to buy Dyna-gro Pro-tekt (their version of silica) next round. It's more concentrated and uses a different form of I believe all potassium silica. Always add silica first, then your nutes and ph it. Siliva will stabilize your ph alot. Also, it raises the ph, and can even be substituted for a mild ph+
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Update: The plant looks a little wilted from thirst -it was really hot today. Checked the roots and they seem a bit too dry- Increased mist time to 1/sec/on /3mins off. Realized I was forgetting to top water the rockwool in the netcup, most likely part of the issue- whoops! Hopefully will recover by tomorrow, misted foliarly as well to try to hydrate it as quickly as possible. Once some new roots shoot out I can hopefully cease the extra work of top watering, but obviously it's still necessary as of now. Unfortunately the clone was started in a compressed pete puck, and when it dries out it gets quite hard, don't know if that'll be an ongoing issue.
 
Top